fuel upgrades

Hey guys,

So I did a quick search and couldnt find a whole lot of information on this matter so I figured I would just make a new post. I am looking to be upgrading my whole fuel system over the winter here, Just trying to figure out how crazy to go and what all I am going to need, I am basically at the limits of my stock fuel system and larger injectors. So as of now the fuel system is stock except for the (i believe) 35lb injectors that came with the blower and the fuel rails that also come with. I have a set of aeromotive billet rails sitting here and going to be going to something like a 80lb injector, havent quite decided there. I am going to run a return style system and so I know Ill need a good fuel regulator, any recommendations? Definetly something with a boost refereance port. And then for lines im thinking -6 would be good enough or should I go up to a -8 and know im good. As for fuel pumps and filters, should I find a larger intank pump or should I do an inline pump and filter and are there any recommendations? I dont need anything e85 compatible as im in canada. What else am I missing here..

Anyways for the truck its going on will be my 13 sport, currently running just under 12 psi of boost and a fairly aggressive non boost cam.. There has been some chatting with inertia on building me a stroker motor come probably febuary and want to make sure im good on supporting mods first. If I go that route it will be getting a forged 400 stroker with a custom blower cam, and ported big valve eagle heads. Once that happens ill probably throw a smaller pulley on and go hurt some peoples feelings at the track basically going to be hoping for 600ish rwhp and need some fuel to support this and more if I decide to upgrade again in the future.

lets see some ideas and any help is greatly appreciated

If you ever want to make the trip up to Calgary I can show you my system. I'm running a f-1a procharger at 17psi on a forged 349 block. I have the ID1000 injectors, a -8an feed line split before the fuel rails and regulated after with a boost referenced Aeromotive A1000 efi regulator. I used to have a -6an return but found it was severely undersized for my new fuel pumps, it's now a -10an. Fuel pumps are in-tank and they are twin Walbro 400s and they sit in a modified factory fuel basket.

This setup easily feeds my engine and is setup with enough flow and injector to run a 426 stroker at 12psi which is my end goal. Injectors are at 53% pulse width and I'm no where near the limit of the dual Walbro 400s.

When I get around my computer I'll throw up some pics of my system.

The in-tank pumps are a lot quieter than inline pumps ever will be and it's easy to modify the factory fuel basket to run aftermarket pumps and keep everything nice and clean. You'll be running an inline filter either way as the pre-filter on any pump won't be fine enough for efi, I'm running a 10" -8an inline filter with a synthetic filter cartridge and with it inline it's a piece of cake to drain my fuel lines now when I need to work on the engine.


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You are the guy I was hoping to chime in haha just couldnt remember your username to save my life.
Ya fotrsure, I drive by Calgary lots so Ill have to stop in sometime
. Youre running -10 now? Thats some big line, maybe I should just go with -8 then. Did you happen to have pictures of your fuel basket? Just curious on what you did to modify it to fit the dual pumps

I'm running -8an supply and -10an return. I definitely needed it with the oversupply I have with the dual 400s. If you run smaller pumps then you'd be fine with the -6 or -8 return.


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Here is the top of the fuel basket that I had to change a bit to make the -10an return line, I ended up trimming the inner lip around the -10an inlet so I can easily thread the hose fitting on without difficulty.



And the underside of the basket from original install; the return line dumps into the fuel basket. With the single 400 pump I had with the D1SC I just drilled holes in the bottom of the fuel basket so it wouldn't run dry and with both pumps I cut the bottom out completely and run the supplied fuel socks on the bottom of the pumps. I gutted the oem basket and kept the factory plug connected to the fuel level sender, aside from that there's nothing left except the basket. I ran new wires and plugs to the pumps using 10ga wire because the factory wiring is way too small to run even a 225 pump.

That looks really good, that was going to be my next question on the wiring but you beat me to it, its like you can read my mind. did you basically just replaced the whole harness from the fuse box back then with larger wire?

How much power were you making on your single 400 pump? Ive read that they are good for close to 800hp, so were you starting to get close to its limits?

Would I be better off going to say 2 smaller pumps over 1 large one, such as dual 250s vs say a single 400

you guys have skills i would have to pay through the nose for. kudos.

Kurtis is definetly a very knowledgable man, im still learning, computers make me think everything is way more difficult than it really is.

Next thought I had about it the other night was running a fuel cell, I can still get a decent sized cell and i would locate it right at the back of the truck where the spare tire and stuff used to be and then cut a hole in the box for fueling up. Ive thought about this to save a bit of weight from having such a large tank and also when its full the truck leans slightly to the left and that has always bugged me also for exhaust routing as I want to have side pipes on both sides

The number one thing I look at every time I'm on jegs or summit is fuel cells, and I've been eyeing them a long time. It's not a difficult install to do at all but most will end up with you losing the factory fuel sender.


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nope, the install would be fairly straight forward as far as mounting and what not, but there has got to be a way to incorporate the fuel cells sending unit to work with a stock gauge

I know Matt from Moes performance is running a fuel cell on his 2011, maybe he could chime in and see what he did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vk7JWIIgsag

It depends on what the voltage input for the factory sending unit. IIRC it didn't match the 5V that most cells use but I could be wrong.

That would make sense and also would have to find one where the sending unit measures the same in ohms as the stock would, some read 0ohms full and some read 0 ohms empty, id just have to pull out the stock one and measure what it is.

Bigdaddycodes said:

That would make sense and also would have to find one where the sending unit measures the same in ohms as the stock would, some read 0ohms full and some read 0 ohms empty, id just have to pull out the stock one and measure what it is.

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How about some underhood shots . When are you going to take it to SIR and get some track numbers,you're not that far to make the trip ,. I'm curious to know how your blower works.

I tried to go to sir once this past summer and I got to tech and said there was no hope in me passing.. so gonna try and make my truck a bit more legal and try again next year

Bigdaddycodes said:

I tried to go to sir once this past summer and I got to tech and said there was no hope in me passing.. so gonna try and make my truck a bit more legal and try again next year

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You got that right,i went over to SIR last summer after they'd just re-surfaced the track and ran into way more hassle there then I ever do at Castrol. What all did they want fixed,lol.

I've ran at castrol just fine haha but apparently at sir you have to be truely street legal.. they didn't like my tint, castrol didn't care, they said I couldn't have hids which is bull if you ask me, my Pirelli p zeros were almost at the wear bars, which is still a good amount but not enough for them, had a rock chip in my windshield, and had a few messy wires from my air compressor which they didn't like..