Coming up on 180,000 miles

[CS911RSPNDR]

Hi everyone, I have a 2014 Tradesman 1500 that I have converted the interior to mostly Laramie parts. I am very happy with the swap out, but will probably need help with wiring the door panels so that the ambient lights work.
But, my question has to do with engine maintenance. I am approaching 180,000 miles, and my engine is still running like a top.
Should i look into doing a whole engine overhaul, and what would I need to replace? Or should I just do typical maintenance and replace the usually worn/wearing parts? I am a advocate of preventative maintenance, and want to stay on top of things. Of course the manual only gives maintenance recommendations up to 150,000 miles.
I thank you for your suggestions

 

[tron67j]

My dad said don't fix what isn't broke. General maintenance will be fine. Replace belts and hoses, enjoy the ride.

 

[rzr6-4]

There's a difference between preventative maintenance on parts that are known to have issues or doing regular maintenance on things before they are due, but there's no sense in throwing away time/money/good parts that very well may never go bad anyway. Just stay on top of thing in terms of maintenance.

Caveat: Some people have talked about doing the cam/lifter as precaution. That is a LOT of money to spend preventing something that is unlikely to occur anyway. However, if you have some money burning a hole in your pocket it might not be a bad idea IF AND ONLY IF you put a larger cam in and delete MDS. At that point it's about getting the HP bump but you can tell your wife that "you needed to do it to make sure it keeps running good."

 

[Jeepwalker]

Rzr5-4: Caveat: Some people have talked about doing the cam/lifter as precaution. That is a LOT of money to spend preventing something that is unlikely to occur anyway. However, if you have some money burning a hole in your pocket.....

That would be the one thing to SERIOUSLY consider. Lot of cam lifter issues esp in those mid decade years like your truck. They revised the roller in later years. But then again, maybe it'll be fine another 50k?

If you haven't undercoated the truck, I'd do that too, esp if you saw some of the Rusty Rams driving around here! LOL. And lay a bead of oil on top of the wheel lip seam. You see, they put a bead of caulk (seam sealer) between the inner and outer panels about 1/4" above the wheel lip so ya need to get oil or rust proofing above the seam sealer ...and below it. But rustproofing won't likely migrate down past the seam sealer. So get oil to protect the underside, park the truck it at an angle where, say, the drivers side is lower, then lay a bead of oil on the seam above the wheel lip (rear box) and leave it be overnight. Maybe add more oil a few hours later. Let the oil get drawn 'up' into the seam by capillary action. Just type in "Ram 4th Gen Rust" and take care of all the areas where you see them get rusty. The tailgate...rockers, cab corners, behind the 'Hemi' fender badge.

How long do you plan to keep the truck?

 

[Jeepwalker]

And it wouldn't hurt to remove all the sand, dirt and rocks from above the rear wheel arches (remove inner liners first).

I did mine. Some rocks were REALLY lodged in there! I made a tool out of 18ga and got a couple cups of debris out of each wheel arch. (the tape on the tool is to prevent scratching ..the joint is welded). After mine was cleaned I washed thoroughly and allowed to dry a few days. No shop is going to do that work for you (took some work!).

You could just undercoat as-is, but it'll create a gooey mess. Better would be to squirt oil above (it's thinner) from in front of the rear wheel/s. And also do the wheel lip in the manner described in my other post above. The tape in the picture below shows where the inner wheel arch is, where rocks, sand and debris holds moisture on the inside, and where to pry with the tool. You can see where some minor rust is starting on my tk's wheel lip. Fortunately it was just surface rust. I ground it away and repainted (before doing the oil work). Tailgate lower seam are other areas to address. Overall, if you can't clean out the debris, at least squirt some oil up there to prevent rust. These trucks really DO rust. Something is better than nothing.



Click on thumbnails to see larger pics:

 

[RamDiver]

I would be completing a transmission filter & fluid exchange, if that hasn't already been completed.

Lifetime fluid is a hoax perpetrated by the suits at FCA. ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission has a fluid replacement schedule that differs from FCA.

.

 

[CS911RSPNDR]

Thank you for all of the advice, it helps a lot!

 

[tiagovito]

I would always start with fluids like differentials, transmissoon, brake and coolant flush. These are often "neglected buy people" then try to do a overall inspection. I don't think is worth it to just throw new parts at it is not necessary, why replacing good parts for new ones right?

 

[Dusty]

I would be completing a transmission filter & fluid exchange, if that hasn't already been completed.

Lifetime fluid is a hoax perpetrated by the suits at FCA. ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission has a fluid replacement schedule that differs from FCA.

.

Actually, manufacturers get EPA credits for reducing the use of petroleum products, like motor oil and transmission fluids for routine maintenance. So manufacturers push the limit to the point that they feel will not seriously impact warranty claims. The real culprit here is the government's incentivizing extended oil and fluid changes.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 110343 miles.

 

[Big Daddy]

09 with 360,000. Change the fluids and plugs and leave it alone....

 

[Ludville1]

09 with 360,000. Change the fluids and plugs and leave it alone....

What repairs have you done to this engine during this time? What oil and oil filter do you use in this engine? Thanks.

 

[WY-Dave]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!