I seen someone mix OAT and HOAT on the internet and it mixed up bad and it made some type of like goo that clogged up the cooling system. I say you drain it completely and put the factory fill. They cost like $25 at the dealer each.
Yep,, Kind of a pale white crumbly crud,, almost looks like 'clear silicone crumbles'.
Using color alone to identify what you have can be deceiving as, rumor has it, Chrysler used one color for a while for one type, while Fiat was using that same color for a different type. Eventually, they (FCA) 'unified' there product line (I believe orange and purple were/are involved, but don't take my word for it.) Have also heard some appear to have a different hue in the rad vs in a glass jar.
Again, I couldn't specifically say what is what today, but if you know its OEM coolant, best to look in your manual for the spec./part number and then determine your plan.
The current OEM coolant is 'high dollar'. Alternatives do exist, but if you are going to go that route, you'll want to do a full/complete flush first before switching to be sure there are no ill effects.
As antifreeze type is important, I'd like to interject a thought or 2 on 't-stat swaps'.
I've seen folks go out and buy antifreeze (hope they got the right stuff) just to do a t-stat swap in a 'new' truck or one that's only a few years old,,,.
As the antifreeze in the vehicle is far from being 'used/worn out', IMHO, you're better off draining all you can out of the system into a clean pan, swap the stat, reuse the original from the pan and use distilled water for any make-up. When properly drained, you won't spill enough to need much make up. Certainly not enough to drastically affect your freeze/boil point.
With this method, you don't have the expense of the extra AF, and you have a ZERO percent chance of mixing AF types.
