Spectre CAI reviews?

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THETANK

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I don't want to fire up this argument again, so I will try to keep this short. We have run a few trucks on the dyno and seen as much as an 18hp/tq gain from the Vararam over stock, and even saw a 16hp/tq gain over the LMI short ram intake. We also tested 4 intakes on the same night at the dragstrip on a 2012 crew cab...only mod on this truck was our 85mm throttle body (stock tuning). Stock intake it ran 15.2. With K&N 63 series, it ran a 15.1. With the S&B w/o scoop, it ran a 14.9. And with Vararam, it ran a 14.8. Any mod that knocks .4 off your 1/4 mile time for only $300 is a bargain.

Not all intakes are created equal, so to say that all intakes are just noise makers is wrong. That's like saying all headers are junk because you only gained 8hp with your shorties. Many guys have picked up 25-30hp/tq on the dyno from longtubes.

We all have different goals, wants, and needs from our trucks...how much power do you want to make? That question will determine which route you should go with your mods.

There's nothing wrong with scratching the itch with a cheaper mod, but I learned long ago that those cheaper mods usually end up coming off and getting replaced with better mods down the road (thus costing you more money in the long run). That is why I say to hold off until you can afford the better part, regardless of which mod it is that you want.

have not come across any arguments for/against the Vararam yet but my question is this, at our track my first run would see ambient temps of approx 25C and by the 4th run the temps will have dropped by as much as 10C (fresh mountain air). Could this scenario come into play ie lower temps equals faster 1/4er's:favorites13:
 

Hemi450hp

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The night that we tested the intakes, the temp only dropped about 8* from when the gates opened until we left. We also put the stock intake back on for the last pass of the night...it ran a 15.18 (only a few hundredths quicker than it did at the beginning of the night).
 

Jmhm17

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Well, that's not a Spectre but a pretty damn close copy.

Gotta love China reverse engineering. lol

Lol it was good enough for me and 70 bucks you cant beat it. After a nice coat of high temp wrinkle black it will look 10x better. The only thing i worry about in the quality department is the heat sheild every thing else is identical and proves the markup on intakes is stupid high.

As for Matts testing at the track .4 is no joke. Thats pretty serious but honestly i dont see a drag strip being a valid test to prove performance. I would like to see dyno sheets proving the increase in the power band. There are way to many variables at a track. That .4 could of been a freshly preped track after a spill and a nailed launch. I have raced 100s of times and can tell you each run is different switching back to the stock intake and gaining time is saying something but again 1/4 mile times are not good stats for mods imho. Its so easy for a vendor like you to put up youtube videos of before and after dyno runs to prove the performance gain. Those videos would be worth the dyno cost and time as it would rip through these forums like wildfire and increase sales on your part as no one as proven real world numbers
 

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Lol it was good enough for me and 70 bucks you cant beat it. After a nice coat of high temp wrinkle black it will look 10x better. The only thing i worry about in the quality department is the heat sheild every thing else is identical and proves the markup on intakes is stupid high.

That's on thing I can tell is different. Instead of the thin aluminum like that ebay one. The Spectre's is pretty thick steel. But shouldn't make a difference on how they perform.




See super expensive intake on my GTP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IMG_20150509_172444.jpg
Only cost me $50 for the filter and 45* elbow. Nothing works better...lol
 
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Casper

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I just bought a ebay copy of the Spectre intake. I always thought intakes were BS anyways but for 70 bucks I could not pass it up (I am more in it for the noise). I dont get a mod budget any more so when i find stuff like this I jump on it. I do plan to modify it to make it a bit better tho, please read on..

To elaborate on what Moes Performance said, All of K&N's intakes have metal intake tubes except the 63-1561. and same goes with 99% of the rest of the aftermarket. Other than the diameter of the tube, and the better filter these intakes (with the exception of the vararam) are all the same. The factory airbox is made of plastic and does not soak heat as much as metal, and neither does the rubber tube, but the corrugated tube causes flow issues as well as the box itself - this is the same for most factory intakes.

so with that being said regardless of the heat shield and tube material and the intake the intake system is still INSIDE the engine bay where it is surrounded by heat, and its getting air to the box from the outside - just like the stock air box did. I am a firm believer that the little increase of power intakes claim to give on this truck is due to increased air flow, not because of lower temps. if its cooler air you are after my suggestion with an intake of this style would be to wrap the tube in header wrap, and put some heat wrap on the "heat shield".

All of the claims that one is better than the other I have seen on here is due to quality and claims of power on the butt dyno. i guess what im trying to say is every intake except the vararam is the same in a sense and the small differences are not going to make a difference, at the end of the day it is what it is. a tube with a filter.. if you want a sick looking intake then spend the money on it, but if you want an intake that will probably perform the same and looks cheap then buy the spectre..
Correction: S&B is all plastic--no metal at all to soak up engine heat. It is sealed from sucking engine compartment air, and in addition to using the OEM suction port in the RF fender, it has the option to use an additional lower suction, or add a extender tube to draw from down near the bottom of bumper--to augment the available cooler air. You also do not get a lot of tooth-rattling throttle noise like the K&N, Airaid or Spectre either. I've had the open type and all they did was drown out my music or interrupt any conversation in the cab under any sort of load or acceleration.
Not all CAIs are created equal. S&B for quality fit and finish, Vararam for ram-air type performance. Everything else for noise, noise, noise.
http://www.ramforum.com/album.php?albumid=1532&pictureid=10652
 

BlownGP

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Correction: S&B is all plastic--no metal at all to soak up engine heat. It is sealed from sucking engine compartment air, and in addition to using the OEM suction port in the RF fender, it has the option to use an additional lower suction, or add a extender tube to draw from down near the bottom of bumper--to augment the available cooler air. You also do not get a lot of tooth-rattling throttle noise like the K&N, Airaid or Spectre either. I've had the open type and all they did was drown out my music or interrupt any conversation in the cab under any sort of load or acceleration.
Not all CAIs are created equal. S&B for quality fit and finish, Vararam for ram-air type performance. Everything else for noise, noise, noise.
http://www.ramforum.com/album.php?albumid=1532&pictureid=10652

Correction on your Correction.

The metal vs plastic thermal property debate as gone one forever

Theoretically the plastic would be slightly better due to the increased temps of the engine bay.... but overall the air is in there for a limited amount of time. The ambient temperature would have a greater affect with regards to temperatures.

So, that's a moot agrument.

2nd the Spectre is not loud like the K&N. I can't even hear mine. (btw I wish I could, I think a intake sucking noise sounds good)

3rd. The Spectre is sealed in a sense. Not a cover like the S&B but sealed to the hood and it uses the stock lower intake tube for air. Just like the S&B.
That's why I said in my first post you have to use the lower section of the stock box to use the Spectre CAI.
 

Jmhm17

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An addition to the correction of the correction. To reiterate my point about the small differences about "cooler" air is not going to make a difference woth what these intakes cost.

This thread is for Spectra CAI reviews(and my China clone?) Not a debate on which intake is better. This is the problem with this forum, people are sucked into one brand of performance mod and ride it like its going out of style. Go on any performance car forum and start talking about intakes.. i guarantee you will get flamed thinking JUST an intake will give power - one over the other.
 

Casper

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Correction on your Correction.

The metal vs plastic thermal property debate as gone one forever

Theoretically the plastic would be slightly better due to the increased temps of the engine bay.... but overall the air is in there for a limited amount of time. The ambient temperature would have a greater affect with regards to temperatures.

So, that's a moot agrument.

2nd the Spectre is not loud like the K&N. I can't even hear mine. (btw I wish I could, I think a intake sucking noise sounds good)

3rd. The Spectre is sealed in a sense. Not a cover like the S&B but sealed to the hood and it uses the stock lower intake tube for air. Just like the S&B.
That's why I said in my first post you have to use the lower section of the stock box to use the Spectre CAI.
Either way, enjoy your RAM and whatever mods you choose to personalize it with.

I wasn't trying to start a ******* contest, I just saw a factual omission in which the S&B was treated exactly like all the open intakes omitting discussion of its significant benefits. My correction was intended to address that omission.

WRT sealing to the underside of the hood: Most open intakes promise the same seal, except many like K&N don't in fact make solid contact/seal.

I understand Vararam does achieve a tight seal, so its possible yours also has a good seal, especially if you aren't getting your fillings rattled out by throttle noise. A chalk test would confirm for certain. I personally prefer the noise to come from the back-end of my rig and not from under the hood (I might feel different If I had headers and a built up cam though).

While I agree the air is passing through an air box and intake relatively quickly, even a 5 degree delta T will result in a measureable reduction in the density of that air--that's why intercoolers are so critical to turbo charger effectiveness--yes, I know turbos involve compression too, but heating is heating. A bigger intercooler makes for a more effective turbo because cooler air is more dense and provides a greater concentration of oxygen per intake stroke to support combustion. Theoretically that's why we all bought CAIs too (except for the guys who just want the 'hey look at me' throttle noise).

We can't realistically do anything about exterior temps, but temperatures under the hood will always be warmer than outside ambient when the engine is at operating temperature. Temps in the engine bay are going to warm all associated materials. Metal (including the underside of the hood depending on insulation effectiveness) will match the ambient (engine bay) temp and do so more quickly than plastic--plastic, like silicon is a good insulator and not as likely to accept as much heat, do so as quickly, or radiate or convey that heat to passing air as effectively (via convection). Metal on the other hand is slicker than plastic and in theory may offer a tiny modicum of reduced turbulence/friction, but the different materials will have no significant effect on friction at the flow rates and distances we're discussing. For a daily driver the temperature impact may be insignificant, but from a thermodynamics perspective we shouldn't dismiss the effect out of hand; and it has some very substantial implications for racing and at the drag strip.

To my mind the OEM intake really isn't awful except for the corrugated intake hose and el cheapo flat filter. Its all plastic or rubber and has a route for cooler outside air and probably provides ample air flow, but there are often noise and emissions control trade offs in factory designs--case in point you may remember the old 4.7 baffle hats.

Where S&B improves on the stock design is the second low intake opening: combining a big high-volume filter and clear path for external cooler air without obstruction to flow. I don't know as I need all that airflow, but knowing I have it is reassuring. :burnout:
 
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Etroze86

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I like mine, its pretty and cured a little lag in my throttle lol.
To each his own I spent the money cause I wanted something that looks like it belongs, is it better than OEM no idea performance wise but it looks 100% better than the stock air box but that's my opinion.
 

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An addition to the correction of the correction. To reiterate my point about the small differences about "cooler" air is not going to make a difference woth what these intakes cost.

This thread is for Spectra CAI reviews(and my China clone?) Not a debate on which intake is better. This is the problem with this forum, people are sucked into one brand of performance mod and ride it like its going out of style. Go on any performance car forum and start talking about intakes.. i guarantee you will get flamed thinking JUST an intake will give power - one over the other.

Welcome to the RAM forum, where if don't use what everybody else uses you're not cool. lol


Either way, enjoy your RAM and whatever mods you choose to personalize it with.

I wasn't trying to start a ******* contest, I just saw a factual omission in which the S&B was treated exactly like all the open intakes omitting discussion of its significant benefits. My correction was intended to address that omission.

WRT sealing to the underside of the hood: Most open intakes promise the same seal, except many like K&N don't in fact make solid contact/seal.

I understand Vararam does achieve a tight seal, so its possible yours also has a good seal, especially if you aren't getting your fillings rattled out by throttle noise. A chalk test would confirm for certain. I personally prefer the noise to come from the back-end of my rig and not from under the hood (I might feel different If I had headers and a built up cam though).

While I agree the air is passing through an air box and intake relatively quickly, even a 5 degree delta T will result in a measureable reduction in the density of that air--that's why intercoolers are so critical to turbo charger effectiveness--yes, I know turbos involve compression too, but heating is heating. A bigger intercooler makes for a more effective turbo because cooler air is more dense and provides a greater concentration of oxygen per intake stroke to support combustion. Theoretically that's why we all bought CAIs too (except for the guys who just want the 'hey look at me' throttle noise).

We can't realistically do anything about exterior temps, but temperatures under the hood will always be warmer than outside ambient when the engine is at operating temperature. Temps in the engine bay are going to warm all associated materials. Metal (including the underside of the hood depending on insulation effectiveness) will match the ambient (engine bay) temp and do so more quickly than plastic--plastic, like silicon is a good insulator and not as likely to accept as much heat, do so as quickly, or radiate or convey that heat to passing air as effectively (via convection). Metal on the other hand is slicker than plastic and in theory may offer a tiny modicum of reduced turbulence/friction, but the different materials will have no significant effect on friction at the flow rates and distances we're discussing. For a daily driver the temperature impact may be insignificant, but from a thermodynamics perspective we shouldn't dismiss the effect out of hand; and it has some very substantial implications for racing and at the drag strip.

To my mind the OEM intake really isn't awful except for the corrugated intake hose and el cheapo flat filter. Its all plastic or rubber and has a route for cooler outside air and probably provides ample air flow, but there are often noise and emissions control trade offs in factory designs--case in point you may remember the old 4.7 baffle hats.

Where S&B improves on the stock design is the second low intake opening: combining a big high-volume filter and clear path for external cooler air without obstruction to flow. I don't know as I need all that airflow, but knowing I have it is reassuring. :burnout:

I wasn't trying to Casper.

Just your two points about the Spectre CAI were not correct..

And like I said we can go round and round about the metal vs plastic.
But in my first post. My IATs were 5-6* about ambient. I don't think plastic would make them much cooler.

Yes I understand the thermal properties of plastic and metal. :):):)
 

Jmhm17

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:beatdeadhorse5:This thread is getting a bit redundant...

I just want to hear what people have to say about this intake. Im pumped i cant wait for it to come it.

It will go great with my fully functional ebay catch can < uh ohh..
 

Kotta390

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I've done so much research on intakes and have tried different styles all the way to having no intake at all on different dodge trucks. I can tell you that if you go to a bigger throttle body, the stock intake will still most likely be plenty. I have researched multiple threads on yellow bullet and LS form about the use of the corrugated intake tube and how it effects air flow and unless you are trying to gain the very last .5hp over an rpm you only reach when you go WOT and in a VERY narrow rpm range then go for an aftermarket. Sorry I just don't buy the whole "this intake is better than this one" and "this intake will knock off .4 at the track." Sorry but no...


I'm speaking for stock purposes and that means exhaust mods included.
 

Casper

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:beatdeadhorse5:This thread is getting a bit redundant...

I just want to hear what people have to say about this intake. Im pumped i cant wait for it to come it.

It will go great with my fully functional ebay catch can < uh ohh..
Just don't fall for the ole throttle body spacer. ...:crazy:
 

Jmhm17

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^^ bro I got 2!!!!!

No, I know lol. been modding my cars since I got a license, and worked in a few garages (some performance shops) and have worked side by side with a few pro tuners. 99% of the **** covered on this forum is noobie bolt ons, Catch cans, Intakes, T-stats, and muffler (some catbacks), and it all means nothing for making power. If your going to spend an ass load of money on your truck boost it or build up the internals, cause all this stuff is, is supporting mods for real mods...

best bang for your buck is get a tuner, a tstat, and a TB. next step is full exhaust. then port the heads, throw a cam in then an intake should be usefull
 
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Kotta390

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^^ bro i got 2!!!!!

No, i know lol. Been modding my cars since i got a license, and worked in a few garages (some performance shops) and have worked side by side with a few pro tuners. 99% of the **** covered on this forum is noobie bolt ons, catch cans, intakes, t-stats, and muffler (some catbacks), and it all means nothing for making power. If your going to spend an ass load of money on your truck boost it or build up the internals, cause all this stuff is, is supporting mods for real mods...

Best bang for your buck is get a tuner, a tstat, and a tb. Next step is full exhaust. Then port the heads, throw a cam in then an intake should be usefull

exactly!!!!!!!
 

BlownGP

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^^ bro I got 2!!!!!

No, I know lol. been modding my cars since I got a license, and worked in a few garages (some performance shops) and have worked side by side with a few pro tuners. 99% of the **** covered on this forum is noobie bolt ons, Catch cans, Intakes, T-stats, and muffler (some catbacks), and it all means nothing for making power. If your going to spend an ass load of money on your truck boost it or build up the internals, cause all this stuff is, is supporting mods for real mods...

best bang for your buck is get a tuner, a tstat, and a TB. next step is full exhaust. then port the heads, throw a cam in then an intake should be usefull

hahahahaha.. I know right.

I just how people act like if you don't have a catch can, your truck is going to blow up..lol
 

Jmhm17

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The cheapest supporting mod for a tune is a 180 t-stat, and Auto Zone sells one for like 12 bucks, yeah it might be a few degrees off but who cares.. Any good Tuner will see the actual coolant temp and use that to work with timing.

Sorry, I'm going to continue to shoot the bull until my intake arrives... maybe keeping this thread on top will educate people..

dont mine me..
 
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