Synthetic Oil

Burla · Mar 17, 2018

The right gas treatment with ethanol? The rub on ethanol is it can contain water, the white paper has of one piece of metal treated with s1-1 and one not. Rust inhibitor, PEA, and upper cylinder lube.

USE DIRECTIONS Initially use one bottle to a fuel tank and fill with fuel to achieve rapid cleanup. The treatment can be reduced on subsequent fillups to 1/3-1/6 oz per gallon (one bottle to 50-100 gallons) to provide continual injector and valve cleanliness. The detergents and antioxidants help prevent the formation of gum and varnish in gasoline, and the rust inhibitors prevent corrosion. Red Line SI-1 will not damage fuel system components and the combustion by-products do not cause corrosion of engine bearings as can many fuel additives.

Burla · Mar 17, 2018

Hemi395 said:
Another cam failure

http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?threads/117302/

It is always one sticky lifter causing all that damage.

Burla · Mar 17, 2018

I poached this of RF, looks like a DI friendly formula.

Why do we like QSUD? Moly is decent, but....

chrisbh17 · Mar 18, 2018

Burla said:
I poached this of RF, looks like a DI friendly formula.

Why do we like QSUD? Moly is decent, but....

QSUD changed along the way, this might be the new version.

The old version had better zinc and phos numbers along with the moly. I have about 20 quarts of the old version (half 5-20 and half 5-30} which I will use soon for my hemi.

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Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2018

The lifter that failed in that thread I posted earlier was a non MDS lifter. So there goes that theory...

69GWC · Mar 18, 2018

Do we know what part of the lifter failed ?
I feel like the needle bearings ate mostly the problem as it would not take much dirt or lack of oil to affect them.

chrisbh17 · Mar 18, 2018

69GWC said:
Do we know what part of the lifter failed ?
I feel like the needle bearings ate mostly the problem as it would not take much dirt or lack of oil to affect them.

Pretty sure that's what is happening. I think they proved it over on the z forum. Needle bearings are fickle enough, then starve them of oil for one reason or another and it's just an accident waiting to happen.

The one way bearing on my RC trucks is a needle bearing and requires a decent amount of upkeep and lubrication from the spent nitro fuel otherwise the needles end up in pieces. Some are internal to the engine, so you can imagine what happens if needle pieces start flying around at 12k rpm.

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Burla · Mar 18, 2018

Hemi395 said:
The lifter that failed in that thread I posted earlier was a non MDS lifter. So there goes that theory...

I never subscribed that the mds had anything to do with it myself. MDS lifts as a bar over 4 lifters on each side, it the mds was the culrpit, you would see 4 lobs wiped? It is sticky lifters imo until someone can prove different. Which means an oil formula should have film strength in multiple ways (additives and visc) plus heavy detergency. Hmm, sounds like PUP 0w40?

Sorry if any *****'s think that is a PUP commercial, well not really.

Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2018

Burla said:
Sorry is any *****'s think that is a PUP commercial, well not really.

It's not RL so I'm sure it's not a problem[emoji849]

R.L.K. · Mar 18, 2018

Ha ha ha

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Burla · Mar 18, 2018

Sad but true, but hey Redline also happens to have the same characteristics maybe even better then PUP. I forgot, both clean starting base oils. Another argument for at least running synthetic oil. So fixed that for you.

But, my point really was the oil developed by FCA for hemi, they knew what they were doing. Maybe you will still have Cam fails, but at least try to use an oil similar to what they were trying to do with PuP 0w40. Best chance at avoiding a problem? I would even look at additives if I was stuck on a brand not like PUP or Redline.

Burla · Mar 18, 2018

Another thing I have been kicking around with PEA usage, is there such a thing as too much? I wonder what PEA does in the oil. Another reason I really hope blackstone didn't loose my sample. PEA in every tank and the oil smelled much different. Usually detergents means wear (exception is PUP) but I have no idea what PEA is going to my internals. Another worry, lol. I was already considering lowering it to 1/3 or 1/4 bottle every tank anyway.

R.L.K. · Mar 18, 2018

Burla said:
Another thing I have been kicking around with PEA usage, is there such a thing as too much? I wonder what PEA does in the oil. Another reason I really hope blackstone didn't loose my sample. PEA in every tank and the oil smelled much different. Usually detergents means wear (exception is PUP) but I have no idea what PEA is going to my internals. Another worry, lol.

I may be wrong , but at a minimum I think it would dilute the ( the good stuff )in oil a bit .

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Burla · Mar 18, 2018

It's a balancing act, like everything else. There is always such a thing as too much. Well, maybe I should consider doing more uoa's, fawk!.

R.L.K. · Mar 18, 2018

I wonter if too much highly potent detergents in PEA fule system cleaners could scrubb off zinc , phophorus and Molybdenum plate ? Especially without an OCC ...

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Drunken Hamster · Mar 18, 2018

So, guys[but not rat450 and his clones], I wanted to run something by you.

Without getting into exact numbers, amounts, percentages, and ratios, but also disregarding the gub'ment's limits on oils, what would the theoretically BEST oil be made out of, and what additives and generally how much on a scale of 1-10 would be in it?

Said oil will be produced in 0w-25w rating and 20-60wt[so, all of them, lol], with as many cross-weights for cold and hot as possible, and it will be an 'all around' oil meant for any/all kinds of gasoline/e85/e90 engines[including the seemingly infamous DI turbo stuff].

A separate oil would be formulated for diesels, but we won't get into that RN because I don't want to go over diesel theoretics and oils and **** since there's even MORE **** poor excuses for regulation on them.

So yeah, what would the theoretically 'best' all around motor oil be for petrol engines, in general terms?

{{So far, I've garnered PAO/Ester base with a ****load of moly, zinc, and calcium that has epic wear numbers, a high HTHS rating, few/no VII's, and lots of TBN is 'where it's at' so to speak.}}

R.L.K. · Mar 18, 2018

You've almost completely answered your own question [emoji106][emoji106]

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Drunken Hamster · Mar 18, 2018

R.L.K. said:
You've almost completely answered your own question [emoji106][emoji106]

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THEN WHAT AM I MISSING!!

{{Also, for some reason, I'm thinking some mineral oils could be added to the base to perhaps make it more stable or wear/shear resistant?? Or is this literally asstalk?}}

Burla · Mar 18, 2018

Make it simpler, what can we add to Redline to make it better? What didn't they cover? It would have to be application specific, so let's say just for the hemi. Did they lower the quality by being more pao/ester then POE? Taking out some of the moly? How about moving to TN moly. Base oil is 85% of the formula, can group 3 really compete?

Is Drunken Hammy stirring the pot this AM?

Drunken Hamster · Mar 18, 2018

Burla said:
Make it simpler, how or what can we add to Redline to make it better? What didn't they cover? It would have to be application specific, so let's say just for the hemi.

Is Drunken Hammy stirring the pot this AM?

I have no idea, I'm just putting together what I've picked up here. I haven't done any actual research. Hell, I don't even know what "PAO" stands for. Just trying to stimulate an idea.

Wait, ****, what's "POE"!?

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