Amateur Wiring Question

jgruberman · Aug 17, 2017

So I have been pretty lazy/uneducated in my wiring so I wanted to come hold my head in shame and ask of the ways...

When installing new electronics such as an amp or siren module, I typically splice the power wire into an already existing wire that I know gets signal.. In this case, the cigarette lighter. Well needless to say, the fuse blew when I was tweaking some light bar wiring. Aside from the fact that I didn't wire the light bars correctly, it has made me realize that MY WIRING IS MESSY.

So I wanted to ask what the proper procedure was for wiring a new electronic device into the truck. Do I need to run a fused line to the battery for each device with a specific amperage rating? I have a LOT of electronics inside so I'd have to run a lot of wires... Is there a way to run a single wire inside and then all the fuses inside from each device? Is this even the right way to do this? Currently I have devices jumping onto other devices and it's really bothering me and I need to fix it.

Please help educate me on the proper way to add new electronic devices to the truck. Thanks in advance!

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07MegaCabRam · Aug 17, 2017

This is what I've always done and it was worked great for me. The newer cars/trucks these days actual can monitor voltage/wattage on wires and throw codes. If overloaded, blow fuses.

First off, get you one of these:

https://powerwerx.com/atc-ato-blade...O72cWy0woerInsEGVJogZ__LbQzXg8VxoCuCcQAvD_BwE

Mount it under the dash. Run an 8G wire from it to the battery. Put a large inline fuse from a car audio install kit CLOSE to the battery.

Then when you add electronics, you have a power source and it's fused and you never have to go through the firewall... unless you are feeding wires from the switch...

I also recommend that when you install anything light related, to use a relay.

IF you're good - you can do a fuse and a relay panel and mount it under the dash.
Wiring can be scary.. and some people thing power and ground and call it done. Nope..

jgruberman · Aug 17, 2017

07MegaCabRam said:
This is what I've always done and it was worked great for me. The newer cars/trucks these days actual can monitor voltage/wattage on wires and throw codes. If overloaded, blow fuses.

First off, get you one of these:

https://powerwerx.com/atc-ato-blade...O72cWy0woerInsEGVJogZ__LbQzXg8VxoCuCcQAvD_BwE

Mount it under the dash. Run an 8G wire from it to the battery. Put a large inline fuse from a car audio install kit CLOSE to the battery.

Then when you add electronics, you have a power source and it's fused and you never have to go through the firewall... unless you are feeding wires from the switch...

I also recommend that when you install anything light related, to use a relay.

IF you're good - you can do a fuse and a relay panel and mount it under the dash.
Wiring can be scary.. and some people thing power and ground and call it done. Nope..

Thank you. I knew it was something along these lines but wasn't sure what. Couple quick follow up questions..

-How do I determine what size fuse to use for the device?
-I have numerous relays for my HID and light bars under the hood... Should they be under the dash inside somewhere?
-Is 8 gauge thick enough wire to the fuse block, why not 4?

Thank you.

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07MegaCabRam · Aug 17, 2017

You can determine the size of wire and what fuse to use based on the amperage the item you are installing draws. Most will say what it is, but you can also get a amp meter to tell you.

Relays last longer, just like most electronic devices with less heat. If possible, mount inside, but if not, then under the hood is fine. Most factory ones are under the hood.

8G wire is more than enough wire to spin off of. You could go smaller - but 8G is good for a little over 70amps.

jgruberman · Aug 17, 2017

07MegaCabRam said:
You can determine the size of wire and what fuse to use based on the amperage the item you are installing draws. Most will say what it is, but you can also get a amp meter to tell you.

Relays last longer, just like most electronic devices with less heat. If possible, mount inside, but if not, then under the hood is fine. Most factory ones are under the hood.

8G wire is more than enough wire to spin off of. You could go smaller - but 8G is good for a little over 70amps.

What if a device is already fused at the device? Do I need another one in-line at that fuse block? I assume yes so I can install "my own protection"?

And for lighting, you say I should have a relay and not a fuse installed? Why is that?

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jgruberman · Aug 18, 2017

Got my answer to this question

baum · Aug 18, 2017

relay relay relay is a must.

adrianp89 · Aug 18, 2017

They hit on the electrical portion.

To clean it up - wire loom for the engine bay and Tesa Tape for edges wireloom, and Tesa all interior wire. The biggest thing with clean wiring is to take your time, plan your wire running routes, and run along with factory wiring if possible. Zip tie every 6" as well.

jgruberman · Aug 18, 2017

adrianp89 said:
They hit on the electrical portion.

To clean it up - wire loom for the engine bay and Tesa Tape for edges wireloom, and Tesa all interior wire. The biggest thing with clean wiring is to take your time, plan your wire running routes, and run along with factory wiring if possible. Zip tie every 6" as well.

Any suggested method for managing multiple relays? I have probably 4-5 under the hood sitting somewhat loosely on top of the fuse box.

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adrianp89 · Aug 18, 2017

First I would be sure to daisy chain 12v and ground across all of them - just to keep thing clean. Then something like what was posted above. Another guy built or bought something really clean that sat on top of the current fuse box. If you don't mind drilling into the truck, you could just screw them to the side of the fender or something of that nature. Either way, ensure the relays are screwed with the posts facing down, or are covered and protected from water.

baum · Aug 18, 2017

that pic above is done nicely the only thing different i would have done is use 1 relay so all the fuses turn on with the ignition. If you put the relay before the fuses they will all be tripped with the ignition.

jgruberman · Aug 18, 2017

So connect the 12v and grounds of each and the first 12v gets ran to the battery and grounded normally?

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jgruberman · Aug 18, 2017

07MegaCabRam said:
This is what I've always done and it was worked great for me. The newer cars/trucks these days actual can monitor voltage/wattage on wires and throw codes. If overloaded, blow fuses.

First off, get you one of these:

https://powerwerx.com/atc-ato-blade...O72cWy0woerInsEGVJogZ__LbQzXg8VxoCuCcQAvD_BwE

Mount it under the dash. Run an 8G wire from it to the battery. Put a large inline fuse from a car audio install kit CLOSE to the battery.

Then when you add electronics, you have a power source and it's fused and you never have to go through the firewall... unless you are feeding wires from the switch...

I also recommend that when you install anything light related, to use a relay.

IF you're good - you can do a fuse and a relay panel and mount it under the dash.
Wiring can be scary.. and some people thing power and ground and call it done. Nope..

So this is how I should have the wiring set up, for however many relays I have?

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/_img/relay/01.jpg

Your picture attached confused me a TINY bit and I wasn't sure what the two distribution blocks were for at the bottom. One for ground and the other for the On switch, while the block on the right all went on the single 8ga fused at the battery?

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baum · Aug 21, 2017

jgruberman said:
So this is how I should have the wiring set up, for however many relays I have?

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/_img/relay/01.jpg

Your picture attached confused me a TINY bit and I wasn't sure what the two distribution blocks were for at the bottom. One for ground and the other for the On switch, while the block on the right all went on the single 8ga fused at the battery?

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exactly how i would have done it, but only thing is i would do like a 30amp fuse at the battery and then fuse each item with the proper amount they need

jgruberman · Aug 21, 2017

baum said:
exactly how i would have done it, but only thing is i would do like a 30amp fuse at the battery and then fuse each item with the proper amount they need

Okay. I actually ordered a 100a circuit breaker to put at the battery and going to run that from the battery to the inside of the cab, then fuse everything individually on a fuse block. That's doable too also, right?

Do I need a relay on the battery line? I didn't account for that actually when I ordered all the parts lol

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baum · Aug 21, 2017

a little over kill on the 100 breaker... you still need the relay. your breaker will feed the relay. your breaker is replacing that inline fuse at the battery. A relay is a switch that when triggered it will let the power from the battery flow through to the distribution block.

jgruberman · Aug 21, 2017

baum said:
a little over kill on the 100 breaker... you still need the relay. your breaker will feed the relay. your breaker is replacing that inline fuse at the battery. A relay is a switch that when triggered it will let the power from the battery flow through to the distribution block.

I was actually going to order a 100a fuse but the breaker was cheaper on Amazon so figured what the heck. Few questions then...

-So I'll have 8ga wiring to the relay?
-I assume I need a 100a rated relay?
-What does the switch from the relay connect to?

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jgruberman · Aug 22, 2017

So I go big fuse, then relay, then to the fuse block?

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baum · Aug 23, 2017

jgruberman said:
So I go big fuse, then relay, then to the fuse block?

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yes

jgruberman · Aug 23, 2017

baum said:
yes

What does the switch get wired to from the relay? A switched ignition source?

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