Audiocontrol LC2i Help

2014 with the 5.0 Uconnect.
Adding my amps, Alpine DSP etc. Picked up the Audiocontrol LC2i as a LOC.
And here's the problems.
Running the front speakers to the LC2i (I'm sure the LC6i is the same if anyone has input). Wired in 150 Ohm 1/2 watt resisters as I've read on this forum, the audio forums and an email from Audiocontrol. There is power running through the speaker lines since it turns on the Audiocontrol unit (which then turns on my amps and DSP). Works like a charm, except no music. NADA, Zilch.

I hooked up the amps to my phone and they're not the problem. Work fine.
Pulled the DSP out of it just to simplify troubleshooting.
Tried it without the resistors just for kicks. Nothing (though hooking it up gives my some static for a second). Hooked up two resistors just to see. Nothing.
I then hooked up one of the 3.5's from the dash directly the speaker wires and also have no noise on those (just tried one channel).
I attemped to wire the 3.5 in parallel to the LOC (with no resistor and with resistor) and still nothing.

I'm desperate at this point. Started this last weekend, had to work all week and assumed I would find the problem this AM. But I can't find the problem. lol.

does your amp have a high level input? what if you bypass the lci2 and go directly into that? what are you hooking your amp up to?

do you have the factory alpine? if so you must get your signal after the factory amp.

baum said:

does your amp have a high level input? what if you bypass the lci2 and go directly into that? what are you hooking your amp up to?

do you have the factory alpine? if so you must get your signal after the factory amp.

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Just the basic 5.0 so not Alpine. One of my amps does have a high level in, but the others don't. I really want to use the DSP though. Maybe the LC2i is just a bad unit? But can't seem to find anyone on this forum that's used it successfully except to power a sub amp feed while keeping the factory speakers functional.

What is the model number of the alpine dsp are you using?

also what do you plan to amp?

The DSP should have high level inputs?? What model number is it?

troutspinner said:

The DSP should have high level inputs?? What model number is it?

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the alpine ones usually dont.

No high level inputs. It's an Alpine PXA-H701. Old school, but I love it. First install I've done in eight years, but previously used it in two different systems. Amazing piece back in the day. 8 channel, 1/3 octave 31 band GEQ for each speaker, TA, fantastic flexible crossover network, 3 sets optical input etc. etc. etc. But built before the popularity of OEM integration.

I suppose I could try a PAC or Schoesche (sp), but really have been impressed with the Audiocontrol LOC's in friends vehicles. I just can't figure out why this won't work.

As for what it's sending too, three old school MTX amps. My sub amp does have speaker level, but really don't want to use it.

AmoAgave said:

No high level inputs. It's an Alpine PXA-H701. Old school, but I love it. First install I've done in eight years, but previously used it in two different systems. Amazing piece back in the day. 8 channel, 1/3 octave 31 band GEQ for each speaker, TA, fantastic flexible crossover network, 3 sets optical input etc. etc. etc. But built before the popularity of OEM integration.

I suppose I could try a PAC or Schoesche (sp), but really have been impressed with the Audiocontrol LOC's in friends vehicles. I just can't figure out why this won't work.

As for what it's sending too, three old school MTX amps. My sub amp does have speaker level, but really don't want to use it.

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i agree with you on the processor.

i know the lci2 has the signal sense to turn on, but have you tried an actual remote turn on? is the lci2 even turning on?

if you have access to a cheap non powered LOC see if that will work.

are you using 1 LOC and splitting the signal to the 3 amps or what?

baum said:

i agree with you on the processor.

i know the lci2 has the signal sense to turn on, but have you tried an actual remote turn on? is the lci2 even turning on?

if you have access to a cheap non powered LOC see if that will work.

are you using 1 LOC and splitting the signal to the 3 amps or what?

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The Audiocontol is turning on everything actually. Works perfectly for that. So it's seeing 12v via the speaker wires, just no audio.
One LOC sending 2 channels RCA into the DSP. DSP has eight channels out. Those go to the amps. So the DSP is the splitter. Rear OEM HU speakers are still hooked up and function fine (just doing a front stage system).

hmmmmm (with a puzzled look..) i think i would try a cheap loc to see if the audio control is the issue. if not just work your way through the setup. next bypass the dsp.. then try a different amp.

are you 100% sure you got the correct speaker wires?

baum said:

hmmmmm (with a puzzled look..) i think i would try a cheap loc to see if the audio control is the issue. if not just work your way through the setup. next bypass the dsp.. then try a different amp.

are you 100% sure you got the correct speaker wires?

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Cheap LOC. Yes, good idea. Probably should be next step. Won't tell me if the Audiocontrol is the issue though, since I believe it's still a resistance issue with the LC2i Many newer Chrysler products won't work with them unless you just tap a line for a sub, in other words keeping resistance from the OEM speaker on it. I suppose I could rewire everything into it at this point.

Already pulled the DSP out of the loop, and used the amps with my phone output as well. No issues there. It's between the HU and the LOC at this point.

And I'm 99% sure I got the right wires. Didn't rush it. But at this point have to look at everything.

Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.

i know you say you have the "basic" radio but what is this resistor thing you are talking about?

i used a cheap scosche wally world LOC with no issues in my '11 durango (with the factory alpine) with no issues.

As for the wiring. search the forum for tech authority. its a chrysler website you put in your vin and it gives you all the wire color and pin locations of your truck.

baum said:

i know you say you have the "basic" radio but what is this resistor thing you are talking about?

i used a cheap scosche wally world LOC with no issues in my '11 durango (with the factory alpine) with no issues.

As for the wiring. search the forum for tech authority. its a chrysler website you put in your vin and it gives you all the wire color and pin locations of your truck.

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I checked the forums, but more importantly I checked the speakers for the color codes. I have the correct wires for sure.

As far as "basic" for 2014 (and I think 2013) they have the 3.0 Uconnect, 5.0 Uconnect, 8.4 and 8.4 with Nav. I have the 5.0.

Reading a bit on this forum, the 300 forum, FIat etc the 3.0 and 5.0 do not like having their speakers disconnected. When it sees no resistance it shuts down the output. The resistors on the speaker level line into the Audiocontrol allow the factory OEM HU to see resistance.

But this doesn't seem to be working for me. Silly, but maybe I reversed the polarity. Shouldn't matter on a speaker, but perhaps it does on the Lc2i?
The Lc6i etc are the same just more channels. Was hoping somebody would chime in that's successfully done it but nothing.

I'm about done with it. I've done 40 car audio systems in my life, but this one and my 2006 Audi are nightmares trying to do simple integration. I'm going to try a tablet for HU maybe. Just got a cool little wifi device that will stream lossless direct via SPDIF into my Alpine H701!
But lose bluetooth.

unfortunately, sounds all too familiar with my 5.0 and LC6i. Like you said in an earlier post, I had to wire my amps parallel to each factory speaker circuit. Hated keeping the factory circuits but with new speakers it turned out ok. Lucky, my system turned out sounding great. losing blue tooth was not an option for me due to work needs.

I think its the lack of a factory amp that's making the lower end units more difficult to wire/integrate. With a factory amp, I think you can just substitute your own processor and amp up stream and the head unit doesn't notice the change.

If you ever figure this darn head unit out, keep us posted.

reek said:

unfortunately, sounds all too familiar with my 5.0 and LC6i. Like you said in an earlier post, I had to wire my amps parallel to each factory speaker circuit. Hated keeping the factory circuits but with new speakers it turned out ok. Lucky, my system turned out sounding great. losing blue tooth was not an option for me due to work needs.

I think its the lack of a factory amp that's making the lower end units more difficult to wire/integrate. With a factory amp, I think you can just substitute your own processor and amp up stream and the head unit doesn't notice the change.

If you ever figure this darn head unit out, keep us posted.

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I think I figured out I'm getting rid of it. LOL. Hate to do it, since it's actually decent HU for OEM, but have some other ideas now. I can't waste anymore time trying to make it work.

Thought I would update this for others in the future.
It's definitely a resistance issue with the Audiocontrol unit. I hooked up a speaker in series with the Audiocontrol unit and it works! I'm not sure how to emulate a speaker level load, I assume it's more complicated then running a 4ohm resistor? Tried a few other resistors I had in my box and nothing. So the LC2i will work for a sub etc when you're just tapping wires and keeping speakers on those same lines. But they won't work on their own with the 5.0 Uconnect.

Putting it back to stock now, 850 mile round trip in a few days hate not having a stereo for it.

And another follow up for future searches. I think with the new head units more people will run into this. I tapped the rear and running full range from those to power the front. With the LC2i and amps turned up they shouldn't be intrusive for rear-fill.

Audiocontrol recommended a 20ohm 5 watt resister to see if it corrects the Chrysler head unit issue of not sending the signal. I will try it next week.

AmoAgave said:

Thought I would update this for others in the future.
It's definitely a resistance issue with the Audiocontrol unit. I hooked up a speaker in series with the Audiocontrol unit and it works! I'm not sure how to emulate a speaker level load, I assume it's more complicated then running a 4ohm resistor? Tried a few other resistors I had in my box and nothing. So the LC2i will work for a sub etc when you're just tapping wires and keeping speakers on those same lines. But they won't work on their own with the 5.0 Uconnect.

Putting it back to stock now, 850 mile round trip in a few days hate not having a stereo for it.

Click to expand...

glad you were able to get sound out of your head unit. BTW, If you're tapping into an existing speaker line to run to your LC2i, you're running the LC2i parallel not in series. I have my LC6i all channels in parallel, only way it would work for me.

Any updates to this? I have a LC2i as well and want to integrate it with my 5.0 HU.