Need Help Diagnosing, fixing,finish install of my system

So 3 weeks without a stereo so far and it sucks. I'm working swing shift away from home so I'll be home iN 3 weeks for 2 days so I wanna have the problem solved and have a new Hu on the way by then if I need one.

So I took over Etrozes q&a thread for a week and it's suggested I start my own.

Factory my truck had a Ra2 5.0. I did the 8.4ra4 and Kicker upgrades awhile back and wanted more since my previous vehicles all had systems.

Decided on jbl ms a5001 and jbl ms a1004 amps, focal ps165 components, a Sundown SA12 sub in a fox box, and a lc7i since I plan on keeping the 8.4ra4.


Install was going good. Gutted the interior and put down some sound deadening. Ran KnuKonceptz wire from the Hu back and from the amps to the doors. Ran power from the battery to a distribution block under the rear seat.

So I turned it on got some music out of the tweeters and rear doors after messing with settings I was getting a little out of the front door mids. Couldn't really get the sub to do much but it was working alittle.

Took the truck to the local shop to tune it. He said something wasn't wired right everytime you adjust the front doors it adjusted the sub and vice versa. So he turned downed all the Gains because he thought I could damage something.

I get it home pop the Hu out check the wiring and I tapped into the correct wires. I did (polarity is crossed on one of them) try to turn everything up to get some audio and I get nothing. I messed with everything I could think of. Checked all the wiring can't figure out what's wrong. I took a Kicker I pulled out and tried touching wires straight from the Hu to the kicker and I get nothing.


I'll try checking the wires from the Hu with a multimeter (I think Ac) if I am getting something there is their anyway to double check to see if instead lc7i without going to audiocontrol? What else should I check? If I wrecked the Hu I wanna get one on the way. Everything works but the audio on the Hu. I'm still using the nav

Thanks to everyone that has helped so far and that helps me get this figured out. I may have bit off more than I can chew with my first build

Ok this is going to be difficult over the internet... can you get some pictures?

Needs pictures of settings and inputs on each amplifier and the LC7i. Can you also take close up pictures of the crossovers at the doors.

For a bonus buy the polarity tester I posted in that thread, or one similar to it. Not only does it test polarity but it also pops the speakers.

Scratch the close up picture for the crossover on the drivers side. A clearer one would be better. But from the picture it looks like the mid is wired in wrong, tweeter wiring looks funky too. (hard to tell for sure because it is blurry).

For clarification the tweeter should ONLY be connected to: T+ and T-, while the mid ONLY connected to M+ and M-. Wires from the amplifier should go to In + and In - to the crossovers.

It may be like this but hard to tell. I am also confused to what the wire hanging unconnected at the bottom of the door is.

I think the wire hanging is for if/when he goes active to those components.

I've never seen xovers like that before this build. My suggestion would be to take the pos and neg of the input of the xover and put that directly to your mid. If you get sound, you got your xover mixed up. If it still produces weak to no sound, I think your wiring from your head unit to the LC7 is wonky. That would explain why fading to each location would adjust other locations so much. Is this the radio that needs to see resistance in order to work?

If you haven't already: pull the phoenix connector from the lc7. Take your DMM and put it on AC volts. The lowest reading it can read. This might be in millivolts. Fade to whatever spot syncs with the lc7 phoenix. Put the pos lead to what you think the pos wire is and neg to neg. With music playing, you should get a positive reading. If there is a neg reading, you have those wires crossed. Similarly, you should be able to probe each location (pos and neg on the LC7) while faded to that first spot and get no reading on the other spots except maybe the sub. If you get signal elsewhere than where you faded, you got it crossed. You gotta go to each spot. You should be able to run a tone and get equal reading on all locations when fade and balance are 0.

I had a very similar problem in another car with the OEM nav and LC7. Ultimately, after I swapped out the head unit, I found 1 crossed wire feeding into the oem amp (my fault) then it all went out to the LC7. The LC7 sent out good 4-5 volt signal to my new amp, but it boosted the incoming problems. DMM readings were all over the place pre-LC7. Output RCAs were fine.

I second adurm. Start with the signal from the headunit, check with a DMM. Follow it into and out of every device. Youtube will help you configure and read your DMM.

When I say start at the headunit I mean as close to the original wires as you can. t7hat way you can eliminate things as you go. Headunit, wires from HU to LC7, LC7, RCA, from LC7, Amps, wires from amps, cross overs, wires from crossovers, and finally speakers.

I will do that again as soon as I get some free time. Thanks for the help guys.

And yea I ran a extra set of speaker wire to the door since I had everything already torn apart if I ever decide to go active.

I'll pop the door panels off and take a close up pic of the crossovers but im pretty sure it's wired correctly I have from the amp going to the mid crossover with a jumper going from there to the tweeter crossover and from the mid+- to the mid in the door and the t+- to the tweeter in the sail

Any progress?