Just my bad luck

CKH · Dec 14, 2013

While doing some routine maintenance on this 1999 1500 4x4 I picked up, I discovered the rear diff needs to be rebuilt. First clue was the fluid was black when I drained it, second clue sat right at the bottom of the diff when I removed the cover. Clutch pack retainer staring me right in the face and of course, broken clutch packs. Not something I wanted to have to do right now since I'm short on funds. Only good thing is there doesn't appear to be any damage to the gears. I'm contemplating driving it off a cliff so I can collect the insurance money and be rid of this thing.

ATCMURPH · Dec 15, 2013

Doesnt need rebuilt unless you have to have an LSD pushing you around. Just gonna function as an open would.

CKH · Dec 15, 2013

I don't want to risk the rest of the clutch packs breaking and pieces damaging the gears. I'm pretty sure the bearings are probably going to be shot since the fluid was low and it looked totally cooked when I drained it.

I might try a junkyard or try to find a wrecked truck being parted out with a lower mileage unit that I can swap in. For now, I won't be driving the truck much, if at all.

I also need a new transmission pan. leaking like a ****, even after replacing the gasket. The passenger side front corner of the pan isn't true. I tried to massage it as much as I could while I had it off but I couldn't get it good enough to stop the leak.

Merc225hp · Dec 15, 2013

CKH you are right it needs to be dealt with, if the discs fail that makes extra room for the side gears to flap around in the carrier. If the side gear has to much play there is a chance the axle C clip will fall off and the will let the axle shaft pull out from the rear end, not good or safe.

CKH · Dec 18, 2013

After a few estimates, I decided I'm rebuilding it myself. The master bearing kit and clutch packs aren't all that expensive. Just a lot of labor involved. Hopefully I don't screw it up.

mumbles84 · Dec 20, 2013

Its easy to do rear end as long as you know how to set bearings i would put a locker in it lot of people hate them i like them. For how much time you will spend cussing you remove the hole rear end. If your just doing the ring gear side i would leave it under the truck.key things to know pinion depth,ring gear lash if you replaced pinion bearing how to replace crush sleeve.

CKH · Dec 22, 2013

I'm replacing all the bearings and the clutch packs. I don't have the cash for a locker. The truck won't see that much off road use, the stock tracloc will serve me fine once it's rebuilt. Hopefully I will be starting the project the weekend after Christmas.

On another note, I ordered a Dorman transmission pan as a stock replacement, it came with a drain plug welded in so I'm pretty pleased with it. I will be replacing the pan either tonight or tomorrow.

Merc225hp · Dec 22, 2013

Got all your specialty tools ready for the rear diff work?

CKH · Dec 23, 2013

Merc225hp said:
Got all your specialty tools ready for the rear diff work?

The only tool I don't have is the one required for the carrier adjusters. I have 2 old spindle nuts that are 36mm from a Dodge Dakota I used to own. I am going to a local shop tomorrow to have them welded to some steel rod to make the tool for the job. Should only cost me a few bucks to have it made.

CKH · Jan 5, 2014

This rear end rebuild is kicking my ass but I am in the home stretch right now. I used a crush sleeve eliminator kit from Yukon Gear. I got the pinion preload set to 25in/lbs after a lot of playing around with the shims. I actually had to lap the spacer on a piece of wet sandpaper (got that tip from the internets) and use the thinnest spacer in the kit. Back lash is set right between .006 and .007 and I have the side adjusters torqued to 150 ft lbs. The contact pattern is nice and centered heel to toe and root to top. I wasn't in the mood to take pics of any of this process.

Tomorrow I will be installing the outer wheel bearings and seals and putting the axles back in and buttoning everything up.

jsl6v8 · Jan 6, 2014

Good Luck with the finish, hope you don't run into any more issues.

CKH · Jan 7, 2014

Got everything wrapped up good. Test drive went well with no strange noises coming from the rear so I guess I did it right.

One thing I did wrong though, no speedometer so I guess I jacked up the speed sensor in the pumpkin somehow. Got a new one and replacing it today. Hopefully it works.

CKH · Jan 7, 2014

Speedometer is back up and running. I broke the old speed sensor pulling it out. Thankfully, I was able to get the piece that broke off in the housing out without dropping anything into the diff.

FINALLY I can start driving this thing. I've got a few minor fixes that need to be done but they can wait till the weather warms up.

WhiteExpress · Jan 7, 2014

Nicely done! Should feel good to have defeated a foe like a near death rear diff by yourself!

CKH · Jan 7, 2014

WhiteExpress said:
Nicely done! Should feel good to have defeated a foe like a near death rear diff by yourself!

It feels great! It was definitely the most time consuming job I have done on a vehicle. I couldn't get the crush sleeve crushed without buying a 3/4 drive breaker bar and new socket so I went the solid spacer crush sleeve eliminator route. It set me back another weekend on the project waiting for the kit to arrive. It took me longer to to this project than it took to do the cam/heads swap on my Charger.

Merc225hp · Jan 7, 2014

Good to read you got the job done.

CKH · Jan 12, 2014

Well, the speedometer stopped working again. took the sensor back and replaced it to see if I got a bad one and it is still not working. I checked the wires leading to the sensor with a multimeter and there are no breaks in the wiring anywhere. I'm stumped now.

CKH · Jan 14, 2014

I found the problem, just inspected the tone ring on the carrier and there are 2 teeth that are jacked up. I think it may have happened during install somehow. It's coming back apart this weekend. I already got the new tone ring. Luckily, Randy's ring and pinion have a warehouse in TN and parts arrive virtually overnight to where I am in GA. New tone ring was only 28 bucks but it's going to cost me a full day of labor.

White Beauty · Jan 14, 2014

CKH said:
I found the problem, just inspected the tone ring on the carrier and there are 2 teeth that are jacked up. I think it may have happened during install somehow. It's coming back apart this weekend. I already got the new tone ring. Luckily, Randy's ring and pinion have a warehouse in TN and parts arrive virtually overnight to where I am in GA. New tone ring was only 28 bucks but it's going to cost me a full day of labor.

cheap fix, but also means new fluid to?

CKH · Jan 14, 2014

White Beauty said:
cheap fix, but also means new fluid to?

Yeah, new fluid. So, not so cheap haha.

Just my bad luck

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