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Will Not Start after Manitanance


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Many thanks in advance for any help!!! I don't know much about diesel engines, but I am hoping to help ...


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Old 12-03-2016, 01:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Ram Year: 2001
Engine: Cummins diesal 24 valve
Default Will Not Start after Manitanance
Many thanks in advance for any help!!!

I don't know much about diesel engines, but I am hoping to help my son with his. My young son has a 2001 Ram 2500 with a Cummings diesel. He has attempted to fix a tappet cover oil leak which as most probably know requires taking out quite a few parts, including the VP44 pump. Well he got it all apart repaired the leak a put it back together. The engine turns over but will not start. It looks like every thing is hooked up and no gas leaks. Any helpful incite or incantations would be greatly appreciated.

Eastbayboy


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Old 12-03-2016, 10:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did he bleed and prime the fuel system before trying to start it? I'd start there, as there is no real ignition system to talk about, its simply not getting fuel. As he had to remove the injection pump, he also had to drain the diesel.
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dudeman2009, thanks for the input

No he did not bleed and prime the fuel system. So yesterday we did that and still no starting. The procedure used was 1) open the nut on the fuel inject pump and bump the starter until fuel comes out. Then tighten the nut. 2) Loosen the nuts on the injectors (did two at a time) and bump the starter until fuel came out then tighten the nuts.
Was this a good process??
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Old 12-04-2016, 06:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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In short, that should work, but the propoer procedure is to loosed the banjo bolt right next to the low pressure fuel line on the injection pump until fuel runs out. Then crank the engine until it starts in 30 second bursts with 1 minute or more cooldown between attempts. It can take up to 5 tries to get the engine to even try to start. Even though the pump may shoot some fuel from the lines, air may still be trapped when bled the way you did it.

I'd also check for voltage at the grid heater for the intake air. That grid not being powered could lead to longer than normal starting times under normal conditions.
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dudeman2009 View Post
In short, that should work, but the propoer procedure is to loosed the banjo bolt right next to the low pressure fuel line on the injection pump until fuel runs out. Then crank the engine until it starts in 30 second bursts with 1 minute or more cooldown between attempts. It can take up to 5 tries to get the engine to even try to start. Even though the pump may shoot some fuel from the lines, air may still be trapped when bled the way you did it.

I'd also check for voltage at the grid heater for the intake air. That grid not being powered could lead to longer than normal starting times under normal conditions.
No need to crank the engine, bumping the starter will activate the electric lp, will prime the system very quickly. These engines will start well below freezing without a grid heater.

Changing the tappet cover gasket is no easy task, and is not a beginners job.

It sounds like he messed up the pump timing when he reinstalled the pump


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Old 12-13-2016, 10:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That completely slipped my mind. Alanack is right. He probably didn't time it properly. All the timing marks should line up, it is entirely possible to install it far enough out that it won't even start.
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Old 12-14-2016, 04:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Timing, compression and fuel and the engine should run to a certain degree.

The VP44 is electric and should be able to dope for bad timing, if its wayy off then the engine won't run.

Air trapped in the lines is really only a thing with old diesels with mechanical lift pumps


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Old 12-14-2016, 05:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input. Still working the problem. My son pulled the injection pump out again and the key on the pump shaft is a bit buggered up. Also, I noticed the arrow on the top of the key was pointing towards the pump and I have seen pics showing the arrow pointing toward the end of the shaft. He did pull the key out when he first pulled the pump and it looks like he put it back in backwards.

The number on the key is 025. Talking with the local Dodge folks, they don't have an 025. Their system starts with 026 and goes up. The part number of the pump is R5019658AD with pulls up as a Mopar part. The key part number is 5013000AA.

Any ideas on getting a new key?? What is the 025 number?
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Call your local cummins dealer, those keyways are numbered for a reason


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Old 12-14-2016, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I had an 01 24 valve a few years ago and I had a FASS system on it. I changed the fuel filter and water separator on it and then afterwards, got in the truck and cranked it over like an idiot. It took me days to bleed the air out to get it to start. I remember reading on several different sites which injector lines to crack open and bumping it. I remember I had to buy a new battery during all this, and had to throw my batteries on the charger because it took me so long. When I finally got it, diesel came glugging out of the injector lines I loosened. It took a really long time. The people commenting on here probably know way more than I do, I just know that it took a long time for me to bleed the air out of my system.
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