Oil viscosity

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mtofell

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About 3 years ago when the 6.4 Hemi first got put in the 2500 there was trouble getting the correct oil anywhere but the dealer. I seem to remember Ram "blessed" one brand and then switched and it was just hard to find.

I also remember hearing this engine is super sensitive and some people were getting CELs from running an incorrect weight. I ended up just buying a 6 pack of oil changes for about $60 each at my dealer so I just let them figure it out.

Is anyone running anything different in the 6.4 than the 0W-40? I didn't hear a lot about the CELs and was always kind of curious if the engine is that sensitive or if that was just message board folklore.
 

tnt2671

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in my 5.7 both 5/20 and 5/30 pennzoil platinum , but making the switch over to redline 5w30 next oil change. from my experience my 5.7 likes 5w30 and the redline has high moly content another thing modern hemi valve trains like.
 

smiley

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Do some research and you'll find the Castrol Edge 0w40 is probably one of the best oils out there right now. I run it in my 3.0L BMW over here on the autobahn and I assure you it's no slouch of an oil.



If I had an HD I would probably run that! Great oil and great price.
 

GsRAM

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Some Pentstar 3.6L engines

Thanks. My 08 ford focus uses 5w-20. My wife's 16 equinox may use it as well. Either that or 5w-30, I'd have to check. I believe my 15 Silverado used 0w-20
 

EastWestHemi

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Amsoil > redline > pennzoil > Mobil >
Castrol

Amsoil and redline get are better because they are higher quality group 4 and pao basestocks. Mobil has a better add pack than pennzoil, but I've always found it to burn off more than the other oils. Castrol doesn't have much moly or boron, has more traditional high phos/zinc add pack with the titanium of course.

I would say CELs are folklore. I ran 5w30 and 15w40 for a couple oil changes in my old hemi 5.7 and nothing happened. Of course I did it after 130k miles when the thing was beat and worth $5k.

I could never go with amsoil or redline because I won't go past 1 year mark on any oil and give them a reason to void warranty. I had a coworker with a dmax and he thought he was doing something so great running amsoil for 20k miles, until I pulled his dipstick and found him 3 quarts low! We were out of town and he ended up dumping in rotella t6 because you can't get amsoils quickly.

I will probably do an oil change with a hd 5w40 oil like delo, delvac, or rotella after I get 20-30k on the truck. The 5.7 hemi does fine with a 5w oil and originally the 6.4 spec'd pennzoil 5w40 in the srt version. I think the newer ck-4 versions are SN, while older cj-4 are SM. 5w40 oils have less viscosity modifiers than 0w40, have a little more oil in them per gallon.

My work 2016 chevy 2500 6.0 gets nothing but fleet Dino 15w40 and it runs great, it is spec'd for 5w30 Dexos synthetic too
 

Rampant

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Amsoil > redline > pennzoil > Mobil >
Castrol


I could never go with amsoil or redline because I won't go past 1 year mark on any oil and give them a reason to void warranty. I had a coworker with a dmax and he thought he was doing something so great running amsoil for 20k miles, until I pulled his dipstick and found him 3 quarts low! We were out of town and he ended up dumping in rotella t6 because you can't get amsoils quickly.

I've never seen Amsoil or Redline (or any other oil manufacturer, for that matter) encourage anyone to run their motor oil past the one year mark. With this in mind, I fail to see your logic in not using their products... People who use the products thinking they can just change it one time a year and never open the hood until the next oil change should probably stick to dealers/quick lubes and shorter OCIs. Spending a lot of money on top tier oils does not excuse routine service/check intervals. In fact, I tend to check mine more often than I would had I used shorter OCIs because I don't plan on changing it for a lot longer and am much more mindful of consumption between changes.
 

EastWestHemi

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I stand corrected, 25,000 miles, 700 hours or 1 year. If your driving 96 miles a day five days a week you will get 25,000 miles a year. Or you idle/drive your car for 2.7 hours a day. I really have never been that guy.

Mobil, Castrol and pennzoil 0w40 could all easily do a 10k 1 year in most vehicles.

Wonder how amsoil would do pulling 20,000 lbs in a ram 5.9 full on max towing in foothills and mountains 3000 rpms, dusty roads, negative degree starts, short trips, long trips, idling in the fields. Maybe 8k a year of the most hellish miles you can imagine.

Amsoil oil change $140, regular Dino 15w40 $50. I'm sorry, but I'm dumping the oil three times a year and getting the crap out before the filter goes into bypass. UOA's have shown all major brand oils to be fantastic when changed within their limits. Highway commuters in non severe service would do better with amsoil. If you pay someone else 20-30 bucks to do your changes amsoil works also. your probably burning at least 3 quarts through the crappy Pcv valve in a ram in 25k miles. Fiat solved the pcv valve problem for the 6.4? hum... we'll see, maybe.

I pulled my intake and heads on my 5.7 at 80k and found huge amounts of oil caked on to piston heads, especially the mds cylinders. I degreased my intake manifold for days in a large tub. Luckily no direct injection so intake valves were pretty clean, but eventually the oil build up on pistons would cause pre ignition/ retarding. The stock cam,with that thin 5w20 was flawless.

Amsoil/redline is the best but may or may not be worth it depending on truck use. I could never not get under my truck and turn the wrenches for a year, I would feel like a bad owner.
 

SouthTexan

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Due to the temps that most of you say the 6.4L normally runs at, I wouldn't be running anything other than synthetic in the 6.4L. Something with the lowest cold temp grade and highest operating temp grade like a 0W40.
 
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Danno

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Due to the temps that most of you say the 6.4L normally runs at, I wouldn't be running anything other than synthetic in the 6.4L. Something with the lowest cold temp grade and highest operating temp grade like a 0W40.

So you would run a syn 0w40, kinda like the manual calls for?
 

Rampant

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I stand corrected, 25,000 miles, 700 hours or 1 year. If your driving 96 miles a day five days a week you will get 25,000 miles a year. Or you idle/drive your car for 2.7 hours a day. I really have never been that guy.

Mobil, Castrol and pennzoil 0w40 could all easily do a 10k 1 year in most vehicles.

Wonder how amsoil would do pulling 20,000 lbs in a ram 5.9 full on max towing in foothills and mountains 3000 rpms, dusty roads, negative degree starts, short trips, long trips, idling in the fields. Maybe 8k a year of the most hellish miles you can imagine.

Amsoil oil change $140, regular Dino 15w40 $50. I'm sorry, but I'm dumping the oil three times a year and getting the crap out before the filter goes into bypass. UOA's have shown all major brand oils to be fantastic when changed within their limits. Highway commuters in non severe service would do better with amsoil. If you pay someone else 20-30 bucks to do your changes amsoil works also. your probably burning at least 3 quarts through the crappy Pcv valve in a ram in 25k miles. Fiat solved the pcv valve problem for the 6.4? hum... we'll see, maybe.

I pulled my intake and heads on my 5.7 at 80k and found huge amounts of oil caked on to piston heads, especially the mds cylinders. I degreased my intake manifold for days in a large tub. Luckily no direct injection so intake valves were pretty clean, but eventually the oil build up on pistons would cause pre ignition/ retarding. The stock cam,with that thin 5w20 was flawless.

Amsoil/redline is the best but may or may not be worth it depending on truck use. I could never not get under my truck and turn the wrenches for a year, I would feel like a bad owner.
$140 for an Amsoil oil change? No way. It's closer to half of that. If you are a preferred customer, Signature Series 0w-40 is $8.60/qt. Your engine requires 7 qts = $60.20. An Amsoil EA15K50 oil filter is $12.95. Total for oil and filter is $73.15... find a good local dealer and that should be your total price plus tax.
Also, the filter they make for the 6.4 is only recommended for up to 15k miles in either normal or severe service.
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SouthTexan

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So you would run a syn 0w40, kinda like the manual calls for?

I don't own a 6.4L and have never bothered to look at what oil the manual calls for. I am just going based on the temps that some members have stated that the 6.4L normally operates in and my own professional experience working for various engines and truck manufacturers. However, as you can see in this thread, not everyone goes by the manual so I am offering some experienced based logic as to why one should use what they should.
 
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EastWestHemi

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Sorry. Was referring to my 5.9 Cummins. 3 gallon plus a $20 dollar filter. Maybe get amsoil for $10 a quart.
 

MN-Ram

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I use the Amsoil 0W-40 Signature synthetic. Since I cannot find the PUP anywhere but the dealership around here I went with Amsoil. With shipping of the cases, I can do a change for around $80/ea. No problems so far.
 

Danno

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I don't own a 6.4L and have never bothered to look at what oil the manual calls for. I am just going based on the temps that some members have stated that the 6.4L normally operates in and my own professional experience working for various engines and truck manufacturers. However, as you can see in this thread, not everyone goes by the manual so I am offering some experienced based logic as to why one should use what they should.

Brigs and Stratton or jiffy lube??
 
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SouthTexan

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Brigs and Stratton or jiffy lube??

Huh?!? What does that have to do with anything or is this another one of your attempts to derail the thread? If that is the case then you can IM me if you want to start a ******* match. I will be more than happy to oblige.
 
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EastWestHemi

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Ok.... w/ hemi your looking at $75 + $5 tax here is ca for amsoil. If you go with whatever syn 0w40 that is on sale at Walmart for $22.50 five quart plus your amsoil filter your maybe $45 with tax. To properly use the amsoil you should be doing a uoa after 10-12k to make sure your service isn't severe enough that it is kicking your add pack and losing your filter.

I've never gotten past paying for a UOA that costs half what I could have dumped the oil for and put in fresh.

My example was referring to a farm truck (5.9 cummins) in the worst most severe conditions possible. In that case, 15w40 Dino at 1/3 the price makes a lot sense vs boutique oil. When maintaining large equipment lines is just part of your job, not a big deal gettting three gallons of delvac for $12.47 and dropping them in every 3k miles.

Changing the oil on my new 6.4 2500 is probably the easiest car I have ever worked on. Takes me 25 minutes, with 20 minutes of draining. I really like the drain pan for the filter, thanks ram engineers.
 

coobie

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Huh?!? What does that have to do with anything or is this another one of your attempts to derail the thread? If that is the case then you can IM me if you want to start a ******* match. I will be more than happy to oblige.
The village idiot "Danno" enough said:roflsquared:
 

Rampant

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Ok.... w/ hemi your looking at $75 + $5 tax here is ca for amsoil. If you go with whatever syn 0w40 that is on sale at Walmart for $22.50 five quart plus your amsoil filter your maybe $45 with tax. To properly use the amsoil you should be doing a uoa after 10-12k to make sure your service isn't severe enough that it is kicking your add pack and losing your filter.

I've never gotten past paying for a UOA that costs half what I could have dumped the oil for and put in fresh.

My example was referring to a farm truck (5.9 cummins) in the worst most severe conditions possible. In that case, 15w40 Dino at 1/3 the price makes a lot sense vs boutique oil. When maintaining large equipment lines is just part of your job, not a big deal gettting three gallons of delvac for $12.47 and dropping them in every 3k miles.

Changing the oil on my new 6.4 2500 is probably the easiest car I have ever worked on. Takes me 25 minutes, with 20 minutes of draining. I really like the drain pan for the filter, thanks ram engineers.
I do see your point(s). It's like insurance for many. Yeah, you can get it cheaper and maybe you'll be protected... maybe you won't.

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