Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 238 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 328 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 404 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 161 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 1,001 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 664 23.7%

  • Total voters
    2,796

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R.L.K.

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Hammer don't do a VOA we already have one, here. A UOA would be more helpful to you. Thanks for running this oil, looking forward to hearing about it. Your plan is solid.

How much was the oil?
Ha , thanks BBB , I don't recall that VOA .



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HammerHead

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Hammer don't do a VOA we already have one, here. A UOA would be more helpful to you. Thanks for running this oil, looking forward to hearing about it. Your plan is solid.

How much was the oil?

I'll be sure to get a UOA on the oil. I paid $79.11 for 7 quarts with shipping included from ebay.
I do have a question about reading the charts on the oil ingredients. What does <1 stand for? I'm assuming it means 0 or none?
 

R.L.K.

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I'll be sure to get a UOA on the oil. I paid $79.11 for 7 quarts with shipping included from ebay.
I do have a question about reading the charts on the oil ingredients. What does <1 stand for? I'm assuming it means 0 or none?
The symbol < means (Less than )

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R.L.K.

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Noted. My point was it is accepted by most automotive manufacturers for an engine to consume some oil weather during combustion or the pcv valve through the intake.
I'd say yes it is normal , especially via the PCV that vents into the intake plenum / throttle body . As in the 5.7L Hemi.

I get about 12 -15 oz of junk in my catch can in 5000 miles , but my oil level never goes down on the dip stick ?

Maybe the amount of normal condensation & blow by created in heating and cooling of the oil in my crankcase is approximately double the rate of what I'm seeing in my catch can? ?

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U&A

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I'd say yes it is normal , especially via the PCV that vents into the intake plenum / throttle body . As in the 5.7L Hemi.

I get about 12 -15 oz of junk in my catch can in 5000 miles , but my oil level never goes down on the dip stick ?

Maybe the amount of normal condensation & blow by created in heating and cooling of the oil in my crankcase is approximately double the rate of what I'm seeing in my catch can? ?

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You just blew my mind with that :baby:
 

U&A

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Check out this hog wash. They must have designed the engine to consume more oil so you just have to "check and add". LOL!! With an emphasis on add..

Never change your oil again

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/innovations/push-mowers/exi.html

Ya know. I started to have a thing for the recent Briggs & Stratton engines. They were reliable and easy to work on. But this..... this REALLY blows my mind RLK.
 

R.L.K.

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LOL ! My dad had an old ford pick up when I was a kid , it used so much oil that he just changed the filter every 3k

I work on a few different type of turbine engines , most have a scheduled oil change of 12 mo / 300 operating hours , they all vent overboard out of the reduction gearbox vent at approximately 1 qt per 15 -20 operating hours if you keep the oil serviced to the top of the sight glass or dip stick .
These engines oil capacity are about 7-8 qts , doing the math through attrition ( if serviced to the top ) via normal venting of the gearbox in 300 hrs your actually changing the oil many times .

Pratt & Whitney Turbine model 207D does not have a scheduled oil change , due to normal attrition , the oil is changed at the scheduled 2000 hr overhaul.

The main difference between the turbines and my 5.7L Hemi ( as far as oil usage goes ) the turbines vent overboard into the final stage of the exhaust system , unfortunately the 5.7L vents out of the crankcase vent into the beginning stage of combustion straight into the throttle body / intake plenum ? Crazy! The only thing you want entering the throttle body is clean filtered AIR & FUEL ! Certinly not nasty oil , condensation, unburnt fuel and solid carbon deposits. ....

This is why I run a quality oil catch can between the PCV & throttle body


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Murphy Slaw

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I get about 12 -15 oz of junk in my catch can in 5000 miles , but my oil level never goes down on the dip stick ?

I was wondering about this. This is my first Hemi, and I just ordered a Catch Can from Moe's a few minutes ago.

2 actually, I need to call them in a few hours, somehow I clicked it twice.........

Anyhow, after much research, I can't find a reason to NOT run a catch can although I know many people don't think they are necessary even on this Forum.

It'll be interesting to watch the results.
 

R.L.K.

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I was wondering about this. This is my first Hemi, and I just ordered a Catch Can from Moe's a few minutes ago.

2 actually, I need to call them in a few hours, somehow I clicked it twice.........

Anyhow, after much research, I can't find a reason to NOT run a catch can although I know many people don't think they are necessary even on this Forum.

It'll be interesting to watch the results.
I for one think an OCC is terribly important for long term use of these 5.7L because of the amount they vent and the routing to the intake plenum.

With that said , lots of folks don't care about long term , as they put 60 -80 k and trade in .... beware of used Hemi's
I put near 300 k on my last Dodge daily driver .

The only concern I see is running an Occ and not adding a UCL Upper Cylinder Lubricant once in a while .... I run the Redline UCL every other tank of gas . Some folks run TCW-3 in each tank .

Either way you certinly don't want all that PCV crud in your throttle body!

A good read for anyone that's not real familiar with the PCV system.

www.oilcatchcan.com

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SyN

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Murphy: Don't worry too much what others think!
Research & gather in the facts and go with your gut feelings.
Most religiously get butt hurt when you don't do as they do or use what they use!

I honestly feel a CC on a 5.7L is a good (Long Term Investment) I honesty feel good inside thinking about a Very Dry Clean intake & Spotless Throttle Body!

Also you will constantly get Owners--->(Fine Folks) who will yell at you stating CC are crap & a Total Waste of $$$$!
Well! I as well as millions of other owners consider---> (Smoking / Dipping Sniff / Doing Drugs / Excessive Alcohol Abuse).
A T-Total Waste of $$$ as well if not 200X worse! Do the Math over 2-3 months time! I payed $159 for my CC. A one time payment compared to months-years of wasted $$$ on these drugs!
 
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Murphy Slaw

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I honestly feel a CC on a 5.7L is a good (Long Term Investment) I honesty feel good inside thinking about a Very Dry Clean intake & Spotless Throttle Body!

That's why I just pulled the trigger. My truck will have UNDER 2000 miles on it when I put it on. I plan to keep it well over 10 years ( just traded in an '05)...
 

mitey22

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So my subscribe and save for pup on amazon went up to almost 11 bucks a quart. Might as well switch to redline now


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R.L.K.

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So my subscribe and save for pup on amazon went up to almost 11 bucks a quart. Might as well switch to redline now


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That depends on 2 ea. things Sir .

How many miles on your truck ?

What oil spec do you plan to use ?

0W , 5W. ?

20wt , 30 wt , 40 wt ?


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mitey22

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Only 2200 miles so still new I dumped my break in oil and went with pup at 1800 miles. I plan on using the 5w20 for now because of my warranty


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R.L.K.

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Only 2200 miles so still new I dumped my break in oil and went with pup at 1800 miles. I plan on using the 5w20 for now because of my warranty


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Run the PUP for 3k then dump it .

Only because your still breaking in and you'll have elevated wear metals regardless of what oil you pour in .

PUP is fantastic oil ....even in the 20wt .

If your having no ticking or LOUD sounding Hemi in general stick with the PUP , I never recommend the 20 wt in anything so take this for what it's worth ------> 20 wt keeps your warm & fuzzy , 30 wt ANYTHING is probably better .

30 wt will never void your warranty because it's allowed as a backup oil (per your owners manual )

I prefer Redline for the high Moly content , but as previously stated PUP in any wt is a fantastic oil Sir .

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mitey22

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Run the PUP for 3k then dump it .

Only because your still breaking in and you'll have elevated wear metals regardless of what oil you pour in .

PUP is fantastic oil ....even in the 20wt .

If your having no ticking or LOUD sounding Hemi in general stick with the PUP , I never recommend the 20 wt in anything so take this for what it's worth ------> 20 wt keeps your warm & fuzzy , 30 wt ANYTHING is probably better .

30 wt will never void your warranty because it's allowed as a backup oil (per your owners manual )

I prefer Redline for the high Moly content , but as previously stated PUP in any wt is a fantastic oil Sir .

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Thank you for the reply. I will run the pup for 3000 I might switch to 30wt redline after that unless the price of pup goes back down. As it is there about the same price and I think the redline is easier to get at this point at least on amazon


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