Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Tmemz

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I think it's a napa filter which I think ends up being a wix if I remember correctly

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grizzstang

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We or Some of us know the reality is----> Some of the 20wt oils have proved themselves to be above average performers in (Daily Drivers).

The Fact is we 5.7L owners do have other options. (0W-30 / 5W-30 / 10W-30 / 0W-40). Which have also Proven to perform extremely well in those 5.7L used as daily drives & those that are worked hard on a regular basis. (Without effecting the MDS System in any way shape or form).
I can honestly say I have not read one negative comment within this thread from an 5.7L owner who made the switch from the CAFE driven 20Wt to a 30Wt.

I don't & never have bad mouthed the 20wt oils nor the owners who run the Viscosity.
I just feel the sensible need to run a more Robust/Stouter option!

No harm running either option!

I want to run the PP 5W-30 or maybe the Redline 5W-30 but I am worried that it will have a negative effect on the MDS and warranty. I also want to run it year round, our winters can be very cold. I guess I have some thinking to do. I plan to leave the factory fill in for 3000 miles then make the switch to PP or Redline because they are both stocked at my local parts store. It will be 5W-20 or 5W-30 in one of those two.
 

R.L.K.

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@grizzstang #1 awesome forum name and welcome to the forum my northern brother !

Fwiw sir I've been running 5W-30 Redline in my Ram 5.7L for about 25k now , I've ran the RL 30wt mixed with the RL 40 wt @ 3ea qts of the 40 wt and I've had ZERO issues including MDS .

With that said I'm in NE TENNESSEE , Bristol area and our winters only get to the single digits (°f ) at night for a few weeks and up to +20°f or more during the day ...

For you Sir , I'd Recommend Redline or PUP( not just the PP )
in 5w-30 for summer & 5w-20 for winter ...
Good luck !

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grizzstang

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@grizzstang #1 awesome forum name and welcome to the forum my northern brother !

Fwiw sir I've been running 5W-30 Redline in my Ram 5.7L for about 25k now , I've ran the RL 30wt mixed with the RL 40 wt @ 3ea qts of the 40 wt and I've had ZERO issues including MDS .

With that said I'm in NE TENNESSEE , Bristol area and our winters only get to the single digits (°f ) at night for a few weeks and up to +20°f or more during the day ...

For you Sir , I'd Recommend Redline or PUP( not just the PP )
in 5w-30 for summer & 5w-20 for winter ...
Good luck !

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Thank you!

Our winters mostly average around 5 degrees F at night and slightly warmer in the day but we do get stretches of a week or two where it can get down to -22 degrees F at night and not improve a whole lot the next day. Those are long weeks and can/will show up at random throughout the winter. PUP is hard to get here but I believe the auto parts store I frequent does have a limited supply on the shelf. I will go with the PUP or Redline and change every 6000 miles, probably in a 5W-20 since I don't usually log enough miles to change the oil twice a year. This thread has been a good read!
 

Bobbo

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What's the consensus on mobile 1 0w-40? I ordered some since it's $26/6qts right now on amazon. I usually run straight PUP 5w-30.

I know some of you mix PUP 0w-40 with PUP 5w-30. Think I should mix it down a bit? Will be used with Wix XP filter.

I don't have any hemi-tick at this time, so not trying to help that. But do plan on keeping the truck as long as possible.
 

Burla

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What's the consensus on mobile 1 0w-40?

It is a very very popular oil within oil guys due to it's low visc at 100, good characteristic for a heavy weight oil. I prefer PUP due to the moly content, but M1 is like a top 3 oil in that weight.

voa 0w40 m1.

That high calcium that coincides with super high tbn means long oil change interval if you choose. It has average moly and a banging amount of zinc, not too much but yet more then the 700 average for the zinc. Looks near perfect, it is one of the "super oils" that only comes with 0w40 for some reason. Super car builders that run the best oil possible in those Italian super cars usually run Redline oil in lighter weights, except for when the application calls for 40 weight. At 40 weight these super car builders prefer m1 to Redline or any other oil and that is no joke. That fact has been noted over at Bob's where these people have written some of the white paper over there. Here's the thing, when that paper was written, PUP wasn't yet made, so now I'm sure it would be an even split between either m1 or PUP at 0w40 as far as the best possible oil you can get at that weight.
 
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Bobbo

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It is a very very popular oil within oil guys due to it's low visc at 100, good characteristic for a heavy weight oil. I prefer PUP due to the moly content, but M1 is like a top 3 oil in that weight.

voa 0w40 m1.

That high calcium that coincides with super high tbn means long oil change interval if you choose. It has average moly and a banging amount of zinc, not too much but yet more then the 700 average for the zinc. Looks near perfect, it is one of the "super oils" that only comes with 0w40 for some reason. Super car builders that run the best oil possible in those Italian super cars usually run Redline oil in lighter weights, except for when the application calls for 40 weight. At 40 weight these super car builders prefer m1 to Redline or any other oil and that is no joke. That fact has been noted over at Bob's where these people have written some of the white paper over there. Here's the thing, when that paper was written, PUP wasn't yet made, so now I'm sure it would be an even split between either m1 or PUP at 0w40 as far as the best possible oil you can get at that weight.

Awesome, thanks. Looks like I'll keep it on my short list for oil shopping.
No problems running straight 0w40 in the 5.7? MDS is disabled via tune. Also running a larger, Wix 51060XP oil filter rated for 9-11 gpm.
 
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Burla

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Well I feel comfortable at 30 weight personally, but other guys chime in I know rlk likes it thick. That's the thing, it is a 40 weight but closer to a 30 weight in the engine, but I wouldn't use a 40 weight other then the 2 mentioned unless you know the visc at 100 is similar to 12.
 

Murphy Slaw

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The only concern I see is running an Occ and not adding a UCL Upper Cylinder Lubricant once in a while ....

Looking at my catch can (just got it, not installed yet) I'm thinking surely some oil vapor is going to get through as well.

Especially when it gets bouncy......
 

R.L.K.

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Looking at my catch can (just got it, not installed yet) I'm thinking surely some oil vapor is going to get through as well.

Especially when it gets bouncy......
Yep , maybe a little bit gets through but not nearly as much if it wer straight plumbed

For that reason I went with an Elite Engineering OCC. The head design for catching contaminates and oil mist was superior to other occ's I found on the market .
I do feel any quality occ is a Huge improvement over not having one though.

Details on the Elite Engineering can I have can be found here .

www.eliteengineeringusa.com

Also info on the Elite Engineering can here at
www.oilcatchcan.com

If the links don't work just Google them.

The head design is hard to explain in text but once it's in your hands it's obviously top shelf . The Elite can is very $ pricy $ ....FWIW I installed the Billet Technologies can on the wife's 16 Challenger and I'm happy with it as well .

Hope this helps !

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Hemi395

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Depending on how much SyNs mix that I have in my truck now shears down, I may just run 7 quarts of PUP 0w40. The more I read about that oil the more I like it
 

R.L.K.

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Depending on how much SyNs mix that I have in my truck now shears down, I may just run 7 quarts of PUP 0w40. The more I read about that oil the more I like it
I agree , looks like next weekend I'll be changing my oil to the PUP program . I'll be using 4 ea PUP 40 wt & 3ea PUP 30 wt.

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Burla

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Syn and Gena got my boys off Redline, damn :console:

Looking forward to seeing the long term results, especially from Corey as he has the Lyme disease although not a bad case. I almost jumped ship with you guys, but seriously my tick/knock is just so severe I'm not walking away from the highest moly oil out there. But, maybe PUP is TN and we know Redline isn't, so maybe PUP moly>Redline moly. This is a serious possibility, but with all of the Cam and Lifter problems in the forum, and the success of high moly formula getting rid of the tick, I am staying put.:favorites13:
 

R.L.K.

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@BBB , even though I didn't have the tick ( just a LOUD Hemi) I'll be going back to Redline if :

1) IF my hemi gets louder during my 1rst oci with PUP

2) IF my uoa's wear metals level off or go higher .

Honestly I'm a big Redline Products Homer , the price of PUP is not that much less and I have to order it as well due to the strange unavailability. ..

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SyN

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I take no credit nor responsibility for some members making the choice to switch!
I only post my experiences as well as honest/facts.

I always make sure to express to others NOT to do as I do.

I am very thankful for those that have experimented with the PUP brand that NO really negative experiences have been posted!

The end of may I will be doing my summer OCI with 6Qts SRT 0W-40 / 1Qt PUP 5W-30 w/RP Filter!
Hopefully by July/August things have improved where I can begin looking again for a 2017 6.7L CTD.
 

Burla

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You know I was just jesting, my hope is we even have more oil choices like PUP has turned out to be.
 
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SyN

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Yup! Jesting is more then welcome. Just don't want anyone thinking or assuming I am pushing PUP.
 

HammerHead

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What type of oil filter Sir ?

A quality 100% synthetic oil filter with a silicone ADBV Anti Drain Back Valve is what I'd recommend.
One like the RP 10-48 filter .

Even with a great oil like 5W-30 PUP & a quality filter & ADBV I've head others say if the truck sits overnight they still sometimes get a few seconds of lifter tapping . I also heard some say if the start & move the truck out of the way , shut it off and only minutes later crank it up & they sometimes get the same noise .

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I prefer the 20-820 RP oil filter, it's a lot bigger. But I'm in a 2013. Not sure why they went to the smaller 10-48 in 2014.
 

dan1911

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Thanks for the informative thread fellas! Learned a lot about oil that I never really considered.
Signed up and PM'd Gena in hopes of trying this promo out. Was a long time M1 user, went to RP and its... fine. No real complaints but no real difference from the M1 and still a real loud Hemi. I even tried to find a single place that had PUP and NO ONE in Fairbanks had it or will even carry it. Not even the dealers carry it if i wanted to pay their markup.
I have a little while before my next oil change so i can hold off for Gena but its a long shot, and even then I am not sure I want to invest all this time trying new stuff if I will never be able to source it myself later down the road.

Redline is equally as hard to get up here, jug on Amazon for $48
PUP on amazon is $43 for the yellow jug (I am assuming the grey/yellow jugs are strictly just a color change)
 
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