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We or Some of us know the reality is----> Some of the 20wt oils have proved themselves to be above average performers in (Daily Drivers).
The Fact is we 5.7L owners do have other options. (0W-30 / 5W-30 / 10W-30 / 0W-40). Which have also Proven to perform extremely well in those 5.7L used as daily drives & those that are worked hard on a regular basis. (Without effecting the MDS System in any way shape or form).
I can honestly say I have not read one negative comment within this thread from an 5.7L owner who made the switch from the CAFE driven 20Wt to a 30Wt.
I don't & never have bad mouthed the 20wt oils nor the owners who run the Viscosity.
I just feel the sensible need to run a more Robust/Stouter option!
No harm running either option!
@grizzstang #1 awesome forum name and welcome to the forum my northern brother !
Fwiw sir I've been running 5W-30 Redline in my Ram 5.7L for about 25k now , I've ran the RL 30wt mixed with the RL 40 wt @ 3ea qts of the 40 wt and I've had ZERO issues including MDS .
With that said I'm in NE TENNESSEE , Bristol area and our winters only get to the single digits (°f ) at night for a few weeks and up to +20°f or more during the day ...
For you Sir , I'd Recommend Redline or PUP( not just the PP )
in 5w-30 for summer & 5w-20 for winter ...
Good luck !
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What's the consensus on mobile 1 0w-40?
It is a very very popular oil within oil guys due to it's low visc at 100, good characteristic for a heavy weight oil. I prefer PUP due to the moly content, but M1 is like a top 3 oil in that weight.
voa 0w40 m1.
That high calcium that coincides with super high tbn means long oil change interval if you choose. It has average moly and a banging amount of zinc, not too much but yet more then the 700 average for the zinc. Looks near perfect, it is one of the "super oils" that only comes with 0w40 for some reason. Super car builders that run the best oil possible in those Italian super cars usually run Redline oil in lighter weights, except for when the application calls for 40 weight. At 40 weight these super car builders prefer m1 to Redline or any other oil and that is no joke. That fact has been noted over at Bob's where these people have written some of the white paper over there. Here's the thing, when that paper was written, PUP wasn't yet made, so now I'm sure it would be an even split between either m1 or PUP at 0w40 as far as the best possible oil you can get at that weight.
The only concern I see is running an Occ and not adding a UCL Upper Cylinder Lubricant once in a while ....
Yep , maybe a little bit gets through but not nearly as much if it wer straight plumbedLooking at my catch can (just got it, not installed yet) I'm thinking surely some oil vapor is going to get through as well.
Especially when it gets bouncy......
I agree , looks like next weekend I'll be changing my oil to the PUP program . I'll be using 4 ea PUP 40 wt & 3ea PUP 30 wt.Depending on how much SyNs mix that I have in my truck now shears down, I may just run 7 quarts of PUP 0w40. The more I read about that oil the more I like it
What type of oil filter Sir ?
A quality 100% synthetic oil filter with a silicone ADBV Anti Drain Back Valve is what I'd recommend.
One like the RP 10-48 filter .
Even with a great oil like 5W-30 PUP & a quality filter & ADBV I've head others say if the truck sits overnight they still sometimes get a few seconds of lifter tapping . I also heard some say if the start & move the truck out of the way , shut it off and only minutes later crank it up & they sometimes get the same noise .
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