Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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chrisbh17

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Thanks for the quick replies!

Yeah I could swear I had heard/read it before but couldnt dig it up.

I wonder...is it harmful or just an annoyance? Ill be sure not to do it again (and my wife wonders why I say "do not start the truck just to move it 20 feet and park it, its not good for the truck")
 

Rampant

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Another? so how many have went bad.

Are these all from the same manufacturers I wonder ? the 6.4 and 5.7 cams I mean

I can only think of one other so far. I'm sure there are more around here somewhere. I wish people would post that info in the correct or at least related threads. That info can be immensely valuable within these walls. I have no idea on the manufacturer of the 6.4 cams. A Mopar branded 6.4 replacement cam can be had from Rockauto for $60.
 

BEAST19

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Over the weekend I started my truck real quick just to move it to the other side of the driveway. So it ran for about 5 minutes, I moved it then let it sit for several hours.

Upon next startup I heard a God awful tapping/clacking noise. I *think* it was piston slap, it went away after 3 or 4 "ticks". Havent heard it since, even on cold startup. I wonder if the "ran it for 5 minutes then let it sit" thing had anything to do with it?
It sounds like lifter tic due to lost compression in the lifters after sitting ... I have a hemi that lives most it’s life in the garage ... the first month I had it and it sat for two weeks ... I started it up and it made the most god awful clacking smacking noise! So loud and obnoxious I immediately turned off truck snd restarted and recorded ... it went away after about 10 -20seconds or so had it towed to dealer ship.... sure enough they let it sit over night and it did it but not as severe as the first time ...

I showed them video and they showed me a bulletin explaining the lifter compression symptom. As long as it goes away shortly after start up Chrysler has no concern .... hope this calms ur nerves.


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U&A

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For aome reason i think it is oil leak down in the system causing very loud vlave train noise.

Just a guess. I have no educated explanation. I think Rampant has given his thoughts on this before.... i think.
 

U&A

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It sounds like lifter tic due to lost compression in the lifters after sitting ... I have a hemi that lives most it’s life in the garage ... the first month I had it and it sat for two weeks ... I started it up and it made the most god awful clacking smacking noise! So loud and obnoxious I immediately turned off truck snd restarted and recorded ... it went away after about 10 -20seconds or so had it towed to dealer ship.... sure enough they let it sit over night and it did it but not as severe as the first time ...

I showed them video and they showed me a bulletin explaining the lifter compression symptom. As long as it goes away shortly after start up Chrysler has no concern .... hope this calms ur nerves.


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Not one bit.
 

chrisbh17

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My 01 Frontier did the same thing on every cold (not temperature wise, just cold as in not driven in several hours) but it was NEVER as loud as the 3 or 4 ticks/clacks/knocks my Hemi made.

Ive heard oil drain down and lifters ticking while they filled up, but this was not close to that. I really do think it was piston slap, but it makes me wonder why a quick start up/shut down would cause it, but leaving it overnight and cold starting it does NOT.
 

Ramnewbie

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I make a habit of trying not to start and shut down again when engine is cold, but on occasion it just can't be helped. Mine was really bad at making that noise with Pennzoil and castrol, a lot less so with Amsoil. Hasn't done it once since Mobil 1 is in there. Knock on wood.

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chrisbh17

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My truck only had 2000 miles on it at the time :( freaked me out. Will make sure I never do that again.

Just had the factory fill changed out a couple days ago, fresh 5W-20 seems to have quieted the engine down some, but it could just be slightly warmer weather that did it.

My intention is to go with a mix of 5W-20 and 5W-30 during the cold weather and 5W-30 during warm weather. Probably QSUD first then PUP from now on (only had a limited supply of the QSUD)
 

U&A

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Super cool idea. Id love to play in someone else’s truck like that. Not mine.


Here is what i dont like about those. Look at how high the axel is in relation to what is actually touching the ground. There is a TON.... TON.... unbelievable amount of bad leverage on the wheel bearings and such.

And what happens when you are ditch hopping and you flex your suspension to the point that a wheel comes off the ground..... will the whole “trac assembly” try to rotate itself when you hit the gas? What is keeping the axle from spinning the whole thing when it leaves the ground?
 

chrisbh17

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Super cool idea. Id love to play in someone else’s truck like that. Not mine.


Here is what i dont like about those. Look at how high the axel is in relation to what is actually touching the ground. There is a TON.... TON.... unbelievable amount of bad leverage on the wheel bearings and such.

And what happens when you are ditch hopping and you flex your suspension to the point that a wheel comes off the ground..... will the whole “trac assembly” try to rotate itself when you hit the gas? What is keeping the axle from spinning the whole thing when it leaves the ground?

You must be real fun at parties!

:)
 

U&A

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LOL^^
Good one


I dont go to parties any more. My free time is with my son.
 

R.L.K.

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Party pooper [emoji16][emoji16]

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tsielski

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Back to oil for a second.

Was over at the BITOG site, and saw where a member posted an oil analysis of the 0W-16 factory fill in his 2018, 4 cyl Toyota. Surprised to see that the Toyota 0W-16 had over 750 ppm of moly, hundreds over even Redline levels, though phosphorous and zinc were typical for an SN oil, in the 600/700 ppm range. Wear metals were surprisingly low for a break-in run of 4000 miles as well, possibly due to the high moly.
Hard to draw conclusions from this one data point, but it seems Toyota is slamming the moly levels, perhaps to compensate for the lower viscosity of the 16 weight. Be very interesting to see how that motor fared, if the owner continued to use that 0W-16 out to 60K miles and beyond.

This is for info only. There aren't enough intoxicants available that would have me use oil this thin in anything. Happily running the 5W-40 Schaeffers in my 5.7.
 

chrisbh17

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Back to oil for a second.

Was over at the BITOG site, and saw where a member posted an oil analysis of the 0W-16 factory fill in his 2018, 4 cyl Toyota. Surprised to see that the Toyota 0W-16 had over 750 ppm of moly, hundreds over even Redline levels, though phosphorous and zinc were typical for an SN oil, in the 600/700 ppm range. Wear metals were surprisingly low for a break-in run of 4000 miles as well, possibly due to the high moly.
Hard to draw conclusions from this one data point, but it seems Toyota is slamming the moly levels, perhaps to compensate for the lower viscosity of the 16 weight. Be very interesting to see how that motor fared, if the owner continued to use that 0W-16 out to 60K miles and beyond.

This is for info only. There aren't enough intoxicants available that would have me use oil this thin in anything. Happily running the 5W-40 Schaeffers in my 5.7.

Someone correctly pointed out in that thread that the high moly level could have been from assembly lube used during engine assembly, or possibly a "shot" of extra moly for the factory fill.

I dont know if anyone has done a ****** analysis on the 0W-16 stuff to see if the moly is really in the oil or not.

Its interesting info, though. Our Lexus ES350 is spec-ed for 0W-20, I wonder if my dealer is going to start using 0W-16 instead. If so, that might blow my future plan of letting them do all the oil changes (for "goodwill" purposes in the future, if necessary). I had a though enough time feeling comfortable with the 0W-20, 0W-16 is even worse.
 

CunningStunt

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Hey, gonna do oil change this weekend. This thread is HUGE and reading all the info makes me anxious about what to run.

I have been running standard synthetic 5w20 whatever name brand my local road mart had. I have had 4 oil changes, no loud noises/knock other than the typical light tic I have come to understand as "normal"

I am approaching 100k miles and have been looking into the redline but wanted to know yalls thoughts? my hemi does tic lightly more at ignition and quiets down as she warms up.

I was reading that someone did 50/50 10w30/5w30. Whats the advantage? Also what model RP filter are yall using?
 

U&A

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Well I took a video of what I thought I’ve started hearing but you cannot hear it at all in the video. It is very faint even in person. Notice it when it is warm not cold. The pattern of the ticking sound is very reminiscent of injectors but almost like one of them is louder. When I heard it today I made two stops while driving after the truck was warm. the first time I stopped, oil was already at operating temperature and I was hearing it. at the second stop I opened the hood and checked again and could not hear at all that time. maybe my mind is that messing with me or maybe it’s the injectors. just going to keep an eye it now.

****,
On second thought I remember reading somewhere rampant was talking about how his injectors were louder on shell gas even though the truck ran better. Well I usually use shell 93 exclusively with my 50/50 mix of MMO and TCW3 and have never heard this....but this time I ran Marathon 93 octane and instead of my usual TCW3 mixture.....this time I did a heavy dose (1.5 bottles) of Gumout” with PEA. Being that one bottle can be used in a small car with a 18-20 gallon tank i usually do 1.5 bottles for my 32 gallon tank.

Maybe i found the reason this is happening as that is the only veriable that has changed!!


What do you guys think?
 
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Stefan N

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.

And what happens when you are ditch hopping and you flex your suspension to the point that a wheel comes off the ground..... will the whole “trac assembly” try to rotate itself when you hit the gas? What is keeping the axle from spinning the whole thing when it leaves the ground?
When I hade tracks on the ATV there where anti rotation bars attached to the A-arms. You can see them flytt 116.JPG with springs behind the tracks under the ATV
 
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