Proby34
Member
How would I know it it is an exhaust or intake valve?To check for a bent valve just check compression if the timing was off more the 1-2 teeth its almost certain ya bent one. Does it run smooth tho?
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
How would I know it it is an exhaust or intake valve?To check for a bent valve just check compression if the timing was off more the 1-2 teeth its almost certain ya bent one. Does it run smooth tho?
I've seen this code as a "false" or phantom code many times . If you have Coil bleed-over, or inductive interference (EMI), the computer will "see" the inducted current as voltage on whichever affected circuit is involved. This can and will trigger a false code because the computer sees higher voltage as a spike than is programmed into the program parameters, and sees this as a circuit problem.I dont even know what you are talking about? explain some more lol
Thanks, im leaning towards a bent valve and Im gonna load test my battery because i messed up timing once, so that probably bent my valve(s). but imma check battery to ensure it hasnt gone bad at all. Thanks for the input as I will keep it in mind if something doesnt go as planned!I've seen this code as a "false" or phantom code many times . If you have Coil bleed-over, or inductive interference (EMI), the computer will "see" the inducted current as voltage on whichever affected circuit is involved. This can and will trigger a false code because the computer sees higher voltage as a spike than is programmed into the program parameters, and sees this as a circuit problem.
I have a customer where EMF from ignition coil bleed over from the coil pack on a Ford actually knocked out the PCM! I have another customer with a later model Jeep where this EXACT 344 code set and it turned out that the coil pack was bad and the EMF was crossing to the crankshaft/ camshaft circuit causing this code.
As for cam/ crank correlation, that also requires a scope to definitively diagnose.
Jut run a compression test if one cylinder is low that head has to come off to see what valve.How would I know it it is an exhaust or intake valve?
Thanks. Does compression vary between each truck, or should I be looking for a baseline number? Obviously is all are the same except for one ill know, but just curious.Jut run a compression test if one cylinder is low that head has to come off to see what valve.
Get in your truck. Floor the accelerator. Crank the engine. It will crank, but not start because, due to it being floored at the time you turn on the ignition and crank it, the computer will "clear flood". This is how one clears a flooded modern DOMESTIC car. Most imports do NOT have this function. While it cranks over, but will NOT start as long as you KEEP the accelerator floored, listen to the "cadence" of the cranking sound. A steady cadence INDICATES normal relative compression across the board. IF the engine has a split second rise in cadence, this indicates a low cylinder due to a mechanically lower compression.Jut run a compression test if one cylinder is low that head has to come off to see what valve.
I’m just gonna get a compression tester lol. Thanks thoGet in your truck. Floor the accelerator. Crank the engine. It will crank, but not start because, due to it being floored at the time you turn on the ignition and crank it, the computer will "clear flood". This is how one clears a flooded modern DOMESTIC car. Most imports do NOT have this function. While it cranks over, but will NOT start as long as you KEEP the accelerator floored, listen to the "cadence" of the cranking sound. A steady cadence INDICATES normal relative compression across the board. IF the engine has a split second rise in cadence, this indicates a low cylinder due to a mechanically lower compression.
IF YOU LET UP ON THE ACCELERATOR EVEN FOR A SPLIT SECOND DURING CRANKING, THE ENGINE WILL START AND OVER-REV. It is CRUCIAL to make sure the accelerator stays floored!
It's fine.... I can do in 15 seconds what will take you an hour+ to do with a compression gauge and pulling plugs/ coils.I’m just gonna get a compression tester lol. Thanks tho
Some drink from the fount of knowledge, others only gargle.It's fine.... I can do in 15 seconds what will take you an hour+ to do with a compression gauge and pulling plugs/ coils.
Im only doing it my way because I havent done a compression test before so I dont exactly know what to listen for. I would rather use the gauge and get numbers to compare so i know for sure. Numbers read better to me than possibly tearing my truck apart when i dont know the exact sound. Thanks though guys.Some drink from the fount of knowledge, others only gargle.
LOL, took you longer to write that than do Sherman’s testIm only doing it my way because I havent done a compression test before so I dont exactly know what to listen for. I would rather use the gauge and get numbers to compare so i know for sure. Numbers read better to me than possibly tearing my truck apart when i dont know the exact sound. Thanks though guys.
lol okLOL, took you longer to write that than do Sherman’s test
Definitely worth a try, the difference in cranking cadence may be obvious
I get it that we all don’t have the experts ear…
Whatever. My intention was/ is to be of help. "Good intentions pave the road to Sheol"Some drink from the fount of knowledge, others only gargle.
An expert ear is not necessary. A problem related to compression isn't going to set either a hard fail DTC P0344 OR a phantom code. So the snipe hunt continues!lol ok
And I appreciate it. I believe some are saying that there could be two issues. I think the P0344 code could be because I have napa sensors and not Mopar, which I will be ordering. However, i might also have a compression problem caused by the bent valve from wrong timing, so both are issues, separate or related im not 100% sure.Whatever. My intention was/ is to be of help. "Good intentions pave the road to Sheol"
Delete.Im not arguing with the advice? Im at work right now so I cant check anything. However, I just replaced the sensor right before I redid the timing and i double checked everything was plugged in. I didnt touch any of the wiring that was around the TCM, I dont think anyway as I only dealt with the wires above the engine. I dont really know where to start if that sensor is brand new and the wiring seems all good and plugged in? Dont need the attitude when you think im arguing with someone when Im just giving my response with my opinion?