star_deceiver
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2019
- Posts
- 574
- Reaction score
- 975
- Location
- Airdrie, Alberta
- Ram Year
- 2021
- Engine
- 3.6 Pentastar
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Agreed, I've driven nothing but manual transmissions for the past 35 years and I have a left thigh like Popeye's arm. I decided I'm tired of that so just got an automatic this time. Not that I really had much choice, manual transmissions being much harder to come by these days.The 3.6 will do this too.
But far and away, this was always my favourite engine brake!View attachment 527440
The 3.6 will do this too.
But far and away, this was always my favourite engine brake!
Very cool that they brought that to the 3.6 as well. I love it when they give you truck features in a truck regardless of which engine you're using.
I wonder about the stick shift though, in my truck it cuts fuel while also dropping a gear, did your previous trucks cut the the fuel too when you manually downshifted while going down a hill? I don't know how important that fuel stuff plays into this, just that I think I can feel when the fuel cuts in and out (which is separately from the downshift itself); first it downshifts, then it revs up and then all of a sudden it seems to "grab" a bit more? And then if you're slowing down it reaches a point where the brake stops braking pretty quickly even though the gear doesn't change.
I could be way out to lunch of course.
My point may have not been clear. The higher gears will require more revolutions of the engine to achieve the same speed, so the engine will get more wear and tear over the same distance. While higher gears are a bonus for towing, achieving maximum torque and hp earlier, it is a killer for mpg and in a gas engine vehicle it is heading to maximum life expectancy earlier.Tron, you got it backwards. For a given load, an engine turning higher rpm is using less torque at the higher rpm. In other words, power = torque times rpm.
When you use a gas engine to tow, going to higher gear ratio gives you higher engine rpm and your tow capacity goes up. One look at truck towing charts shows this.
What you sacrifice to do that is consuming more gasoline and faster engine wear to pull that load.
Which is why diesels are used with lower gear ratios - they have higher torque at lower rpm. But the rest of the drivetrain has to be able to take that higher torque at lower rpm - transmision, u-joints, drive shaft, etc. Diesels use less fuel and wear, but cost more to purchase, because their cylinder pressures are so much higher than spark engines.
Very clear, interesting observation on life expectancy, thxMy point may have not been clear. The higher gears will require more revolutions of the engine to achieve the same speed, so the engine will get more wear and tear over the same distance. While higher gears are a bonus for towing, achieving maximum torque and hp earlier, it is a killer for mpg and in a gas engine vehicle it is heading to maximum life expectancy earlier.
I agree, towing heavy or in extreme conditions will warrant a diesel and if going that route one should opt for at least a 3500 to avoid the 1k payload penalty that essentially renders a 2500 only capable of towing high 1500 loads.
higher gears will require more revolutions of the engine to achieve the same speed,
I doubt the ‘16 Cummins w/G56 cut fuel. The DPF would cool down too much. It more than likely post injected fuel to keep the after system stupid hot.I wonder about the stick shift though, in my truck it cuts fuel while also dropping a gear, did your previous trucks cut the the fuel too when you manually downshifted while going down a hill? I don't know how important that fuel stuff plays into this, just that I think I can feel when the fuel cuts in and out (which is separately from the downshift itself); first it downshifts, then it revs up and then all of a sudden it seems to "grab" a bit more? And then if you're slowing down it reaches a point where the brake stops braking pretty quickly even though the gear doesn't change.
I could be way out to lunch of course.
They regen while you drive between 50-60 mph?Yup. No questions asked... get the diesel. I have had my truck regen at 50-60 mph multiple times and never had an issue. Just be diligent and take it on the hwy for 15-20 min at least once a week if you can. Even then, if you are getting to 50 mph for a decent amount of time, I bet it regens just fine.
Yes. It isn't the 'active' regen that tells you to keep driving, but if you scroll to the DPF status screen it will say 'automatic regen in process.' Get it every few weeks driving back and forth to work at 55 mph, approximately a 45 minute drive. If it starts to regen partway through the drive, it will usually start back up immediately when I start the truck again, and finishes before my trip is over.They regen while you drive between 50-60 mph?
They regen while you drive between 50-60 mph?
Then it's a good thing I never got a diesel. I live rural and I don't get my truck over about 45 MPH more than maybe 3 or 4 times a month.Yes. It isn't the 'active' regen that tells you to keep driving, but if you scroll to the DPF status screen it will say 'automatic regen in process.' Get it every few weeks driving back and forth to work at 55 mph, approximately a 45 minute drive. If it starts to regen partway through the drive, it will usually start back up immediately when I start the truck again, and finishes before my trip is over.
I usually get the automatic regen on about the same frequency as you, usually when the dpf status is anywhere between 45-50%. When it does that I just pass up my exit to work and cruise down the highway, flip back around and it’s usually done by then. I drive 30 miles to work mostly highway one way. I don’t want to ever have an issue with a full dpf filter because the exhaust got cool and the regen cycle never finishes completely.Yes. It isn't the 'active' regen that tells you to keep driving, but if you scroll to the DPF status screen it will say 'automatic regen in process.' Get it every few weeks driving back and forth to work at 55 mph, approximately a 45 minute drive. If it starts to regen partway through the drive, it will usually start back up immediately when I start the truck again, and finishes before my trip is over.
I don't know. I had an 18 2500 CTD and have a 22 2500 CTD. I'm sure they've done regens, but I never knew about it or noticed it. No regen messages, even when watching the DPF gauge.They regen while you drive between 50-60 mph?
If you have the DPF gauge up it should occasionally switch to saying 'Automatic Regen In Process.'I don't know. I had an 18 2500 CTD and have a 22 2500 CTD. I'm sure they've done regens, but I never knew about it or noticed it. No regen messages, even when watching the DPF gauge.
Are you going to delete the regen system?If you have the DPF gauge up it should occasionally switch to saying 'Automatic Regen In Process.'
But where you WILL notice it is in your fuel mileage and your boost. On my typical drive to work my instantaneous mileage reads anywhere from 25-30 on flat ground, and my boost gauge is at zero. When I am in an Automatic Regen, my mileage in the same spots drops to 17-18, and I'm running anywhere from 1-2 lbs of boost.
Not until my warranty is up. If something happens before then, well, I guess Ram can pay for it.Are you going to delete the regen system?
So I hear. But I've never seen it. I'm pretty much done watching the DPF gauge. I watched it quite a bit on my last couple of pulls just to see if that message would come up. Nada.If you have the DPF gauge up it should occasionally switch to saying 'Automatic Regen In Process.'
Again, never noticed it on either truck. Towing MPG and power is pretty consistent. Mine is not a daily driver, it's a puller for our toys.But where you WILL notice it is in your fuel mileage and your boost. On my typical drive to work my instantaneous mileage reads anywhere from 25-30 on flat ground, and my boost gauge is at zero. When I am in an Automatic Regen, my mileage in the same spots drops to 17-18, and I'm running anywhere from 1-2 lbs of boost.