What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

Kid's HEMI! !! · Feb 18, 2024

Gwerner74 said:
Upgraded the original 8.4 head unit in my 2015 2500 to a CarPlay unit out of a 2018 RAM.

was that fairly straightforward to do just by the head unit and just plug it in or did you have to buy something else with it? I’ve been looking at changing mine and I was considering getting one of those Tesla style ones but I’m hesitant on it.

Kid's HEMI! !! · Feb 18, 2024

OK the fun is over with for now now it’s time for some much-needed maintenance. Just ordered B&m transmission pan.

Gwerner74 · Feb 18, 2024

Kid's HEMI! !! said:
was that fairly straightforward to do just by the head unit and just plug it in or did you have to buy something else with it? I’ve been looking at changing mine and I was considering getting one of those Tesla style ones but I’m hesitant on it.

The head unit itself was a direct plug and play, no special programming needed. You will need to upgrade the USB Media Hub in your armrest because the one in our trucks aren't compatible with the CarPlay units.

I had a Linkswell Gen 4 T-Style in my truck for a couple years, it started acting squirrely so I went back to stock. I have to say that even before it started acting up it really wasn't worth it IMO. Whatever app you're using only fills half the screen and even though you could do split screen for a couple different apps, you would have to set it up every time you turned on the truck, there was no way to save it as a setting. The other pain was the climate controls, you'd have to wait until the unit fully boots up to do anything with the heat or AC. The big screen looked nice in the dash but that's pretty much the only positive thing I can say about. Much happier now with the stock look and CarPlay.

Stefan N · Feb 19, 2024

First winter wash, need to take advantage of above freezing temps

First thing next morning was more snow

Hemi395 · Feb 19, 2024

Stefan N said:
First winter wash, need to take advantage of above freezing temps

View attachment 537810

First thing next morning was more snow

View attachment 537811

LOL thats always the way in the winter, get a chance to clean it up and bam more snow

Looks great tho!!

nlambert182 · Feb 19, 2024

I finally installed replacement switches (heated/cooled seats, exhaust brake, etc..) from where my 8.4 Uconnect screen leaked. While I was in there, I went ahead and swapped in a new screen as well. Much better!

TotallyHucked · Feb 19, 2024

Not mine, but my dad's '14. After I told him about my moisture issues and doing my cab vents/rear seat mod, he checked his truck and had 3" of water in the rear wells. So we did his cab vents, 3rd brake light seal and the rear seat mod. His cab vents only had 1 flap left on the driver's side and 3 on the pass side. He'd also had a small amount of water seeping into his headliner.

Heathen-19 · Feb 24, 2024

Did the Big 3 upgrade. Bought a kit off eBay. Gave me an excuse to buy some large gauge wire cutters and a hammer crimp.

1/0 AWG GAUGE Tru Spec Big 3 UPGRADE wiring Kit PURE OFC COPPER Red Black | eBay

(Tru Spec Pure Copper #TEAMWELDINGWIRE big 3 includes the following 6) GP Tru Spec HEAT SHRINK. Tru Spec's 1/0 AWGUSA made copper welding wire. Rope-lay, bunch-stranded 30 AWG SAE copper conductor. PRE- 22 TON HYDRAULIC CRIMPED WITH 1/0 PURE COPPER LUGS WITH 3/8th's HOLE ON ONE END, AND HEAT...

www.ebay.com

PA Ram · Feb 24, 2024

Finally got around to putting my new shocks on that I bought a few months ago. I know most here are Bilstein fans, but man these adjustable Rancho RS9000XLs ride nice. I had spacers on the front for leveling,but didn't like the way it reacted. The struts I got have 2 inch levelling so no need for a spacer. Have the fronts set to 5 and rear at 6 to test to see where I need them set. May set them stiffer for towing the camper,but probably don't need to since I put airbags on the rear.

Hemi395 · Feb 24, 2024

oleblkBetty19 said:
Did the Big 3 upgrade. Bought a kit off eBay. Gave me an excuse to buy some large gauge wire cutters and a hammer crimp.

1/0 AWG GAUGE Tru Spec Big 3 UPGRADE wiring Kit PURE OFC COPPER Red Black | eBay

(Tru Spec Pure Copper #TEAMWELDINGWIRE big 3 includes the following 6) GP Tru Spec HEAT SHRINK. Tru Spec's 1/0 AWGUSA made copper welding wire. Rope-lay, bunch-stranded 30 AWG SAE copper conductor. PRE- 22 TON HYDRAULIC CRIMPED WITH 1/0 PURE COPPER LUGS WITH 3/8th's HOLE ON ONE END, AND HEAT...

www.ebay.com

Nice!

I did that too, the factory grounds in these trucks are adequate at best

Black-Wolf · Feb 24, 2024

Welp... I attempted to replace the lower ball joint on the passenger side. I replaced the driver's side one a couple of weeks ago, but weather and other commitments have prevented me from doing the passenger side. Today - I had no issues UNTIL I got to where I was trying to separate the steering knuckle from the hub... WHOEVER designed this needs to be put out to pasture. The ball joint is apparently corrosion welded to the aluminum knuckle, and I can't get it out. I've tried several different pry tools, a ball joint separator (which didn't fit - it only goes to 2" wide and I need one that can go at least 2-3/4" wide to fit over it and the knuckle), and pretty much cursed it, yelled at it, smacked it with three different size hammers, used a pickle fork on it, lubed it with penetrating oil, and cursed and yelled at it some more. It refuses to budge. I've given up for the moment. I have a better ball joint separator arriving tomorrow EVENING - but I don't think I'll have time to work the problem before it gets dark... Needless to say, I am beyond frustrated. I do NOT have a blow torch to try heating it and letting it cool while beating it with a hammer. As of right now, my truck is not driveable, even if I put everything back together, the ball joint is completely shot and needs to be replaced. Some pics for entertainment of the little B*STRD.

marine0311 · Feb 24, 2024

I took delivery of my new to me beautiful '15 Ram 1500 Laramie yesterday. over 24hrs later my wife and myself still have smiles on our faces. This baby is awesome!!!

aszumilo · Feb 24, 2024

Changed plugs and coils. Took about 3 hours, give or take. Passenger was a lot easier than the drivers side. It was easier than doing it on my old 2004 Ram 1500. Looks like original plugs were never replaced. Had The NGK coppers in it. Switched them out for Autolite Platinums. Old plugs wer so worn, the gap was .060 or greater. Swapped the coils out for some cheap aftermarket ones, until I can afford some new OEM ones. Computer throwing codes on 2 of them. Seems like my misfire is gone from just revving in the driveway. Haven't taken it for a drive yet, because sister brought some pizza over.

Hemi395 · Feb 24, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
Welp... I attempted to replace the lower ball joint on the passenger side. I replaced the driver's side one a couple of weeks ago, but weather and other commitments have prevented me from doing the passenger side. Today - I had no issues UNTIL I got to where I was trying to separate the steering knuckle from the hub... WHOEVER designed this needs to be put out to pasture. The ball joint is apparently corrosion welded to the aluminum knuckle, and I can't get it out. I've tried several different pry tools, a ball joint separator (which didn't fit - it only goes to 2" wide and I need one that can go at least 2-3/4" wide to fit over it and the knuckle), and pretty much cursed it, yelled at it, smacked it with three different size hammers, used a pickle fork on it, lubed it with penetrating oil, and cursed and yelled at it some more. It refuses to budge. I've given up for the moment. I have a better ball joint separator arriving tomorrow EVENING - but I don't think I'll have time to work the problem before it gets dark... Needless to say, I am beyond frustrated. I do NOT have a blow torch to try heating it and letting it cool while beating it with a hammer. As of right now, my truck is not driveable, even if I put everything back together, the ball joint is completely shot and needs to be replaced. Some pics for entertainment of the little B*STRD.
View attachment 538254 View attachment 538256 View attachment 538255 View attachment 538257

Oh man that sucks!

Mine are getting some play in them and this scares me

Keep us updated how things go tomorrow night.....

Stefan N · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
Welp... I attempted to replace the lower ball joint on the passenger side. I replaced the driver's side one a couple of weeks ago, but weather and other commitments have prevented me from doing the passenger side. Today - I had no issues UNTIL I got to where I was trying to separate the steering knuckle from the hub... WHOEVER designed this needs to be put out to pasture. The ball joint is apparently corrosion welded to the aluminum knuckle, and I can't get it out. I've tried several different pry tools, a ball joint separator (which didn't fit - it only goes to 2" wide and I need one that can go at least 2-3/4" wide to fit over it and the knuckle), and pretty much cursed it, yelled at it, smacked it with three different size hammers, used a pickle fork on it, lubed it with penetrating oil, and cursed and yelled at it some more. It refuses to budge. I've given up for the moment. I have a better ball joint separator arriving tomorrow EVENING - but I don't think I'll have time to work the problem before it gets dark... Needless to say, I am beyond frustrated. I do NOT have a blow torch to try heating it and letting it cool while beating it with a hammer. As of right now, my truck is not driveable, even if I put everything back together, the ball joint is completely shot and needs to be replaced. Some pics for entertainment of the little B*STRD.
View attachment 538254 View attachment 538256 View attachment 538255 View attachment 538257

I used this ball press and it worked ok for removal, a bit harder without the right adapters when pressing in the new one.

Starter kit I used: https://otctools.com/products/ball-joint-service-kit

OTC tools says this is the right kit for our trucks: https://otctools.com/products/chryslermitsubishi-truck-ball-joint-adapter-set

I still have right side to do too...

BenWade · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
Welp... I attempted to replace the lower ball joint on the passenger side. I replaced the driver's side one a couple of weeks ago, but weather and other commitments have prevented me from doing the passenger side. Today - I had no issues UNTIL I got to where I was trying to separate the steering knuckle from the hub... WHOEVER designed this needs to be put out to pasture. The ball joint is apparently corrosion welded to the aluminum knuckle, and I can't get it out. I've tried several different pry tools, a ball joint separator (which didn't fit - it only goes to 2" wide and I need one that can go at least 2-3/4" wide to fit over it and the knuckle), and pretty much cursed it, yelled at it, smacked it with three different size hammers, used a pickle fork on it, lubed it with penetrating oil, and cursed and yelled at it some more. It refuses to budge. I've given up for the moment. I have a better ball joint separator arriving tomorrow EVENING - but I don't think I'll have time to work the problem before it gets dark... Needless to say, I am beyond frustrated. I do NOT have a blow torch to try heating it and letting it cool while beating it with a hammer. As of right now, my truck is not driveable, even if I put everything back together, the ball joint is completely shot and needs to be replaced. Some pics for entertainment of the little B*STRD.
View attachment 538254 View attachment 538256 View attachment 538255 View attachment 538257

It is much simpler and quicker to just replace the lower control arm that already has the ball joint pre-installed.

Hemi395 · Feb 25, 2024

BenWade said:
It is much simpler and quicker to just replace the lower control arm that already has the ball joint pre-installed.

Agreed its much easier. Get an alignment and you're good.

However it sounds like @Black-Wolf is having problems getting the old ball joint to separate from the knuckle...

Black-Wolf · Feb 25, 2024

BenWade said:
It is much simpler and quicker to just replace the lower control arm that already has the ball joint pre-installed.

Not the issue. Still would have to get the ball joint to separate from the steering knuckle - and THAT's where I'm stuck at - it won't let go. You still can't replace the LCAs until you get the ball joint out of the knuckle.

Black-Wolf · Feb 25, 2024

Stefan N said:
I used this ball press and it worked ok for removal, a bit harder without the right adapters when pressing in the new one.

Starter kit I used: https://otctools.com/products/ball-joint-service-kit

OTC tools says this is the right kit for our trucks: https://otctools.com/products/chryslermitsubishi-truck-ball-joint-adapter-set

I still have right side to do too...

View attachment 538287

I have a ball joint press... the problem is getting the ball joint shaft end out of the steering knuckle. The driveshaft is in the way of trying to use a regular press. The separators I have borrowed or bought are all too small for the size ball joint and knuckle thickness - measured it and it's 2.75" from the top side of where the ball joint shaft goes in the knuckle, to the bottom of the ball joint shaft. The normal ball joint presses only reach a maximum width of 2" or 2.375". The cheap Chinese crap I bought on shamazon might work because despite what the ad says, the center body of it has 3.3" of depth/clearance, and I think I can finagle it into position and use constant pressure and striking to free the joint. If not - I'm going to have to cut it out somehow. Here's the link to the product: Amazon

Hemi395 · Feb 25, 2024

Black-Wolf said:
I have a ball joint press... the problem is getting the ball joint shaft end out of the steering knuckle. The driveshaft is in the way of trying to use a regular press. The separators I have borrowed or bought are all too small for the size ball joint and knuckle thickness - measured it and it's 2.75" from the top side of where the ball joint shaft goes in the knuckle, to the bottom of the ball joint shaft. The normal ball joint presses only reach a maximum width of 2" or 2.375". The cheap Chinese crap I bought on shamazon might work because despite what the ad says, the center body of it has 3.3" of depth/clearance, and I think I can finagle it into position and use constant pressure and striking to free the joint. If not - I'm going to have to cut it out somehow. Here's the link to the product: Amazon
View attachment 538293

Let me know if this works, I'm ordering it if it does

What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

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