2010 4.7 knocking/tapping any thought???

[Hellaj]

2010 4.7 90k miles
Lifters and rockers done
155-165 psi all across the board
New plugs on intake side not exhaust
Been having this knock/tapping or whatever category it is in.
This is soon as I started up the truck has been like this for months now, not being driven just starting once every few weeks
Manifolds were done with new gaskets and hardware. And this sound is only coming from drivers side, can’t really notice it once passed 3500 rpm any thoughts????? Video 1 is before plus and lifters and rockers. Video 2 is now any help would be greatly appreciated

Video 1
Video 2

 

[Jeepwalker]

Does it run fine when you give it throttle? (no miss?)

What RPM was the engine running in the video? My first reaction is sounds a lot like a bad exhaust leak, or rocker that fell off (not uncommon on these). I'm assuming you inspected the rockers real well. Did you ever have the exh manifolds off? The ex manifolds could be warped (belt-sand/machine them flat if need be). When you give it throttle and let off, does it rattle more?

There are some interesting ideas contained HERE, or possibly HERE, HERE. Check them out. I own one in a GC ...but it's still quiet as can be at 243k mi. So it's possible the engines can go a long time. I doubt changing oil would makke any difference (I run dino 5W-30 Citgo oil since forever). Unless your engine's oil pressure is low. You might double-check the filter has a good anti-drainback ...if the noise is more pronounced upon start-up. Or maybe you ruled that out already. I run Mopar filters in mine. Wix (NAPA Gold), or Bosch...I like all those.

Do you have a scanner you can check if any coils are misfiring? From a basic troubleshooting perspective, wondering if you checked out the coils when you had them off ...ohm them out and inspected for cracks or spark traces? Did you ohm out the plugs? Again, just to make sure they were all good. If it was me I'd also run an oil pressure and compression test (engine warm). I usually do those as good baseline troubleshooting. Unless your tk has an oil pressure gauge and looks fine, you could skip that. Oil pressure generally tensions the timing chain. Compression check=Engine warm, 5-puffs per cyl. Autozone or OReilly's rents both tools for free if you dont have.

Check out those links. Hopefully something in there that will help. Let us know what it turns out to be, when you ID the problem.
.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Usually using an inspection mirror, a guy can see black traces coming out of a leaking Exh manifold.

If all else fails, remove the valve covers, make an oil-dam out of cardboard and tinfoil ...and run the engine. Put a tube to your ear and go around listening until (hopefully) you hear the knock/tick. And also feel for a loose rocker.

 

[Mike Flea]

I have a 2010 4.7 also, I'm the 3rd owner. When I bought it in 2018, it had the tapping. I bought this one with 74,000 miles on it. When it's started , it makes more noise than the '03 mentioned in the next paragraph, but after in warms up the noise fades, but you can still hear it. come to a stop, shut the motor off, wait a minute, restart, and the noise goes away. On a similar post, a couple years ago, someone else asked the same question, and another member said that the tapping usually starts over 70,000 miles if it's ever been overheated, I don't know if that's correct or not, but considering that both of my trucks were purchased with 70K already on it, sounds like a good reason for a previous owner to dump a possible problem. This one has 106,000 on it currently. It's paid off, I'm keeping it. If they ever come out with that new inline 6 engine, maybe I'll consider an engine swap

Also had a 2003 Quadcab that had a 4.7, it also had the tap. The 03's tap wasn't as bad. I bought it with 70,000 on the odometer, and for the 5 years I owned it, 5 min after starting the engine, the noise faded away. it was a good truck other than the body rusting away, sold it with 134,000 miles on it...in hindsight, I should have kept it.

 

[Hellaj]

Hey little update!
I just changed out the timing tensioners
And no change, also inspected the spark plugs exhaust bank had the same plugs as the intake bank, bought new plugs for the intake side and gapped to spec
Also the gap on exhaust wasn’t gaped to 51
Also did no change. Lifters and rockers are new and all look fine. I noticed some of the cam lobes the first cam lobe and 2 last cam lobe almost look out of shape and worn
Almost if if the point of the lobe is worn more oval? And this lobe seems to be near where the noise is coming from?????

 

[Jeepwalker]

...
I noticed some of the cam lobes the first cam lobe and 2 last cam lobe almost look out of shape and worn
Almost if if the point of the lobe is worn more oval? And this lobe seems to be near where the noise is coming from?????

Ah haaa! You might be on to something. Are you going to mic it out (measure?) to verify?

 

[Hellaj]

Before digging into this even more
Just by visualizing in the picture
Does it seem to be more oval then the other lobes?

 

[Hellaj]

 

[Jeepwalker]

It 'does' appear more rounded..by my eye. But that's eye only. Do you have a digital vernier calipers you can rough-measure it with? Maybe go get one from H/F. Make sure you're measuring like lobes (e.g. exhaust vs exh).

What does the oil pressure look like? Did you ever put a 'good' gauge on it? For example, at idle, hot in gear...foot on the brake, how low will it go? And what's the pressure at a steady 1200-1500 rpm? When you run it with the valve cover off, do any lobes seem to be starved for oil? Particularly that one? How do the rollers on the rockers look and 'feel'? Do any feel particularly loose (if you pry down or compress the valve spring HERE)? Could any of the rockers be slightly bent/worn? Basically it's probably going to come down to the cam lobe, rockers or a weak/plugged/bad lifter.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If the oil pressure is low, then I'd probably pull the engine and have the heads reconditioned (with new lifters/rockers ...as needed), and address the oil pressure issues (new pump and, or main/rod bearings). Get the exhaust manifolds machined (or buy a belt sander for the cost to machine them). As low miles as your tks engine is, I'd retain the chain and many other parts. Like I say, there's 243k mi on the one I have...and it runs great/quiet. So they can go a long time. Yours is just getting broken in. I wouldn't fill it full of inferior aftermarket parts. Just what it needs.

Or, if you want to address just the heads, you could just climb in and dig in a little deaper. And remove the timing cover and chain, etc (unless there's a way to remove and leave the timing cover on. Another option is to remove the front bumper/grille/radiator of your truck (pretty easy to do actually), and work on it more easily that way w/o pulling the engine. There's videos on how to do it. But if the oil pressure is suspect, you want to pull it and address the bottom end or whatever, and put new (mopar) rear/front main seals in it. New cams are ~$80 ea (USD). Make it so she'll hit that 300k mile mark like a champ! The nice thing about your tk, vs a new one, is it's simpler and a bit easier to work on than later models, and probably paid for(??). No EPS for one or Hemi cam grinders (Hemi's all tick!!)! What's the rest of the tk look like? Has it been rust-proofed? Probably needs a new seat cushion/cover. That's all easy stuff.

Or, if oil pressure is good, you could try removing/replacing that cam and lifters/rockers on that side. That might be all you need to do (plus the exh manifolds). And that would be a lot easier.

 

[Hellaj]

Had the valve cover off and it seems that It was in good working order and oil was spitting everywhere

 

[Jeepwalker]

I should have suggested this before any talk of removing the heads....

You could compress & remove the rockers and investigate the hydraulic lifters. Esp the one you think is suspicious, and see if you can replace it. Keep everything in it's place so you can put back when needed if you reuse anything. And check the others on that head too. Remove all the rockers and "Maybe" if need be, you can remove the cam gear w/o removing the timing cover/chain (mark the gear and the chain). Google it to see if it can be done. IDK

Your engine might have a flat lifter or worn rocker roller. Or maybe you can stick a used Chrysler cam (or new one) in there (that's good). Sorry, I should have suggested before any talk of removing heads/engine.

 

[Hellaj]

I noticed the noise is coming more from the intake at the back drivers side?

 

[Jeepwalker]

Didn't you say you had a broken exhaust stud? How about removing the Exh manifolds and make sure they're flat....and at least get that resolved (machined or belt-sanded). Just in the outside chance that's what you're hearing?

 

[Hellaj]

Manifold bolt was loose retighten it.
But like I said, that noise is coming from drivers side but in the middle of the motor almost near the egr valve

I just put new rockers and lifters in
No change….
Exhaust doesn’t seem to be leaking.
Noise is almost coming from near the intake on top near egr valve?

 

[Hellaj]

This is what it sounds like
Like I said coming from back of motor
Near the brake booster side on top of the intake??? Video here

 

[Jeepwalker]

Have you tried the ole probing around the engine with a wooden dowel (to the ear bone), or short broom handle? Sounds crazy, but old-school trick that works. A guy can usually zero right in and hear exactly where the noise is coming from that way. Works better than a stethescope IMO. I do it all the time when I have noises. (Youtube-it). Can't hurt to try. Or you can try a stethescope too.

 

[Hellaj]

I’ll give that a try!
Also don’t know if a leaking manifold would cause a knock like that or the egr valve
Maybe done I’m not sure, but I don’t think it’s rod knock this happen when I got stuck in snow going back and forth beating a path down to get out, truck never overheated or anything….

 

[Hellaj]

Did a compression test, all cylinders had 1-50 155psi but number 7 had 195 psi
What would cause that to be so high?
Sound is right around that cylinder?

 

[Hellaj]

I don’t think the cam is doing it’s job
Opening and closing the valve cause the lobe is worn, maybe carbon build up not sure, noise is coming from around #7
On top back of intake manifold,
Just trying to piece everything together and it’s kind of making sense
Stuck valve?
Cam is not opening and closing the valve all the way?
I’m gonna look with a borescope for any indication, I’ll keep this updated