EdGs
Senior Member
Smart enough to know you're in over your head,and really should stop commenting,
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Smart enough to know you're in over your head,and really should stop commenting,
Who me? I’m trying to learn
Should it has less throttle response, less power down low and a struggling engine after a 212/222 582 cam long tubes, 6.4 intake with stock cat back?
I have not a clue as to your solution, my popcorn comment was in response to the back-and-forth between CaptQ and Wild one.Should it has less throttle response, less power down low and a struggling engine after a 212/222 582 cam long tubes, 6.4 intake with stock cat back?
Ok Just goin' thru this post...I feel for ya about the money that you spent and "no" answers...Call Ryan and the guys down at https://frptuning.com/ in Houston. All they do is tune Mopars...from stock Rams to High performance Rams. Give them a call and talk to them...before you call check out the packages they have so you'll know what They're talkin' about. Just tell them Corbin's dad sent you.Should it has less throttle response, less power down low and a struggling engine after a 212/222 582 cam long tubes, 6.4 intake with stock cat back?
I think you should maybe approach HHP with your concerns and let them have another stab at it,as by your dyno sheet it seems to be making decent power above 4100,and the torque and horsepower are crossing over at 5252 which is where they should cross over.Your cam isn't big enough to classed as gutless under 3500,but with a stock convertor it could seem a bit soft under 3500,especially if they installed a limiter or stop in the cam phazor.You might want to look into a 3400 or higher stall torque convertor to offset the lack of bottom end torqueShould it has less throttle response, less power down low and a struggling engine after a 212/222 582 cam long tubes, 6.4 intake with stock cat back?
It’s a work truck that needs low torque. 3400 stall. Is that something I could put on myself? I’ve done timing chains and ball joints….btw thank you for all your help. It feels like I’m pulling a 2 ton weight trying to go.I think you should maybe approach HHP with your concerns and let them have another stab at it,as by your dyno sheet it seems to be making decent power above 4100,and the torque and horsepower are crossing over at 5252 which is where they should cross over.Your cam isn't big enough to classed as gutless under 3500,but with a stock convertor it could seem a bit soft under 3500,especially if they installed a limiter or stop in the cam phazor.You might want to look into a 3400 or higher stall torque convertor to offset the lack of bottom end torque
The graph could be smoother,but that's not really affecting your torque output.If you can pull the transmission,you can do the torque convertor.Next question would be who talked you into that cam,if the truck is a work truck that i'm guessing needs to tow on a daily basis.If your towing with the truck,i'm not sure about the convertor,you'll want to talk to the guys building convertors,and don't bs them,tell them exactly what you're doing with the truck and that it's a daily driver work truck.I'm guessing you left that part out of the conversation when you were talking to who ever sold you the cam.Be honest with the guys selling you parts,and tell them exactly what you need from the truck.I think you got hung up on wanting 400 rwhp and didn't tell the guys selling you the cam package what you needed from the truck,and now it's kind of biting you in the rear.It’s a work truck that needs low torque. 3400 stall. Is that something I could put on myself? I’ve done timing chains and ball joints….btw thank you for all your help. It feels like I’m pulling a 2 ton weight trying to go.
The dyno graph didn’t look strange to you spiking up and down. Is that normal?
No I was honest, the truck has my business name on the side and I told them I need to tow. They said only do the 214/222 with 582 because it will be good for working out of.The graph could be smoother,but that's not really affecting your torque output.If you can pull the transmission,you can do the torque convertor.Next question would be who talked you into that cam,if the truck is a work truck that i'm guessing needs to tow on a daily basis.If your towing with the truck,i'm not sure about the convertor,you'll want to talk to the guys building convertors,and don't bs them,tell exactly what you're doing with the truck and that it's a daily driver work truck,as i'm guessing you left that part out of the conversation when you were talking to who ever sold you the cam.Be honest with the guys selling you parts,and tell them exactly what you need from the truck.
I wish it has the same power as a stock truck, 8k dollars and it’s worse then when the cam failure was in the engine and running. I’m serious this thing does not speed up unless it’s Floored, and they it will go half the time, the other it’s just too much of a pull on the truck to doors up. Couldn’t go around a car at 80 cause I couldn’t speed up enough. It wont go but they have me that jagged graph.The graph could be smoother,but that's not really affecting your torque output.If you can pull the transmission,you can do the torque convertor.Next question would be who talked you into that cam,if the truck is a work truck that i'm guessing needs to tow on a daily basis.If your towing with the truck,i'm not sure about the convertor,you'll want to talk to the guys building convertors,and don't bs them,tell them exactly what you're doing with the truck and that it's a daily driver work truck.I'm guessing you left that part out of the conversation when you were talking to who ever sold you the cam.Be honest with the guys selling you parts,and tell them exactly what you need from the truck.I think you got hung up on wanting 400 rwhp and didn't tell the guys selling you the cam package what you needed from the truck,and now it's kind of biting you in the rear.
Texas Speeds small cam isn't really that small,lol. A 214/222 cam is pretty big to be towing with,especially if the cam phazor is locked or limited,as it won't allow much in the way of cam advance to build torque. Take it back to HHP and let them have another stab at it,and see what they can do for you.If you do decide to put a convertor in it,get ahold of Matt Fikac at Moes and talk to him about a convertor for it,better yet would be to get on the phone and talk directly to the guys at Edge or Paramount and see what they reconmend for your situation.No I was honest, the truck has my business name on the side and I told them I need to tow. They said only do the 214/222 with 582 because it will be good for working out of.
I thought a small cam would add torque and hp.
It literally feels like I have 5000 lbs behind me as acceleration goes.
I mean if I don’t floor the engine it wont speed up hardly as all and it sounds like it’s fighting itself.
Maybe they messed up the tune. The graph shows me nothing down low but it’s a dog.
have you noticed your trucks get much slower after cam 6.4 intake and long tubes?
Is that normal?
Thanks Wild one, I went back. They want me to pay them again to fix the header I already paid for and they didn’t fix. They are not able to tune Mopars. I talked to James the tuner and asked if he spent enough time on it. He cussed me out for asking him that and called me so many bad names. HHP is all about money.Texas Speeds small cam isn't really that small,lol. A 214/222 cam is pretty big to be towing with,especially if the cam phazor is locked or limited,as it won't allow much in the way of cam advance to build torque. Take it back to HHP and let them have another stab at it,and see what they can do for you.If you do decide to put a convertor in it,get ahold of Matt Fikac at Moes and talk to him about a convertor for it,better yet would be to get on the phone and talk directly to the guys at Edge or Paramount and see what they reconmend for your situation.
There's not much any of us on here can do for you,as we're not in your situation,and can't really help you with your issues other then tell you to go back to HHP and let them take another stab at it.
I sure will do that. I think Hemi 5.7 need people who specialize in them.Ok Just goin' thru this post...I feel for ya about the money that you spent and "no" answers...Call Ryan and the guys down at https://frptuning.com/ in Houston. All they do is tune Mopars...from stock Rams to High performance Rams. Give them a call and talk to them...before you call check out the packages they have so you'll know what They're talkin' about. Just tell them Corbin's dad sent you.
How hard is it to install a torque converter, is it something I could do myself. I’ve changed timing chains, ball joint, rack things like that just never a torque converterTexas Speeds small cam isn't really that small,lol. A 214/222 cam is pretty big to be towing with,especially if the cam phazor is locked or limited,as it won't allow much in the way of cam advance to build torque. Take it back to HHP and let them have another stab at it,and see what they can do for you.If you do decide to put a convertor in it,get ahold of Matt Fikac at Moes and talk to him about a convertor for it,better yet would be to get on the phone and talk directly to the guys at Edge or Paramount and see what they reconmend for your situation.
There's not much any of us on here can do for you,as we're not in your situation,and can't really help you with your issues other then tell you to go back to HHP and let them take another stab at it.
Jay Greens small little .5 cam would of been more apporiate for your application. Most shops that don't specialize in Mopars oddball tuning usually have issues with tuning one.Rick Tapp is very good,so you might want to dig another 1300 bucks out of your jeans and take the truck to him.They don't have to cut and reweld the tube to clearance it.You're best option is to hunt up the steering shaft extension for a body lift,and use it to move the shafts u-joint/knuckle up farther,you can install it yourself pretty easily,just tie the steering wheel or have somebody hold it from turning while you work on the shaft.That cam should have a higher stall torque convertor and deeper gears then your 3.55's,a set of at least 4.11's and a 3400/3600 stall converor would give you back alot of the bottom end you're missing.Thanks Wild one, I went back. They want me to pay them again to fix the header I already paid for and they didn’t fix. They are not able to tune Mopars. I talked to James the tuner and asked if he spent enough time on it. He cussed me out for asking him that and called me so many bad names. HHP is all about money.
He said there is nothing else he can do. I talked to Tapped Performance and they said it takes 1-2 days to fully tune a Hemi the right way. $1250 just for the tune. I really don’t know what to do.
They said they want to cut the header tube on that cylinder Into half then weld it back together. Wont a pipe welded into half size rob power and not be good for that cylinder?
Also I was not aware 214/222 .582 was a large cam, I was told it was the smallest upgrade.
I guess they don’t make a cam that is good for low torque for 5.7.
Have people had problems having other shops when tuning mopars that don’t specialize in it?
I just wonder. I made 363hp at the wheels on 20” with 3:55 gears, but it’s slow throughout the entire power ban.
They aren't that hard to install,but you do have to pull the transmission to get at it. I swapped my 8 speed on my driveway by myself using nothing more then a floorjack and hand tools,and i'm 62,you're alot younger so you should be able to do it to.How hard is it to install a torque converter, is it something I could do myself. I’ve changed timing chains, ball joint, rack things like that just never a torque converter
Rick and tapped said it’s a art to tune. I almost took it there but HHP told me tune more. I would never advise anyone to use them. They hit me with a extra 2k for the install and never warned me. I guess I just need to extend the steering like you said, that would fix the issue.Jay Greens small little .5 cam would of been more apporiate for your application. Most shops that don't specialize in Mopars oddball tuning usually have issues with tuning one.Rick Tapp is very good,so you might want to dig another 1300 bucks out of your jeans and take the truck to him.They don't have to cut and reweld the tube to clearance it.You're best option is to hunt up the steering shaft extension for a body lift,and use it to move the shafts u-joint/knuckle up farther,you can install it yourself pretty easily,just tie the steering wheel or have somebody hold it from turning while you work on the shaft.That cam should have a higher stall torque convertor and deeper gears then your 3.55's,a set of at least 4.11's and a 3400/3600 stall converor would give you back alot of the bottom end you're missing.
Don't worry we've all been young and made mistakes that have cost us money,just chock it down to an expensive learning lesson,and move on,as it sounds like HHP isn't going to be much help. Sounds like the truck runs,so you might have to live with it,till you can swing taking it to another shop
If you have a driveway and a sunny day you can swap the convertor yourself easily.Guys have changed the convertors on a truck at the track. I did my transmission swap on my driveway,if you don't have a shop,it's not the end of the world,you just have to work around it.Rick and tapped said it’s a art to tune. I almost took it there but HHP told me tune more. I would never advise anyone to use them. They hit me with a extra 2k for the install and never warned me. I guess I just need to extend the steering like you said, that would fix the issue.
Thank you for your help. I’ll be at 10k with banged up headers once finished. So sad, and I’m not rich but I’ve learned if they do t specialize in mopar they don’t know what their doing.
If I had a shop I could the TOrque converter.