2013 1500 4.7 Issues Getting Worse

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NickSteel

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Quick rundown, i’ve been having issues with this truck since late last year/early this year.

Truck has just barely under 101K on it, and the *only* thing that runs good on it is the A/C and that the seats feel nice.

Issues started with engine ticking on startup, which really wasn’t much of an issue as it fully went away when it was warmed up, but then as of recently the ticking is staying (albeit very quiet) when it’s fully warmed. The tick is 3 ticks when warm all in a line, it starts off quiet, the middle tick is slightly louder and the next one is the loudest, followed by silence for around 2-5 seconds.

Truck has had oil changes (full synthetic) every 3K.

Now, as for the recent trans issues that have been getting worse pretty much by the week.

Trans fluid when hot (170°F) is at the lower notch of the *HOT* notches, but it doesn’t fill up the bottom hole totally, even though the fluid is slightly over it.

As for the issues, a few months back i had a split flat sump filter that i replaced and the truck started to act better, but not fully. The only thing this took care of was the P0868 at WOT.

These trans have issues with the clutches burning etc, but i’ve never had much or any metal on the magnets so i can imagine they’re fine, and that it’s something electrical related possibly.

I followed what i’ve seen burla say on a few forum posts, replacing the valve body and solenoid pack etc with higher build quality ones, and same issues.

The issues are that the trans shifts extremely softly normally, and sometimes it’ll shift nice and firm, on its own, with nothing being done to it.

The trans also occasionally slips the converter on the 6 to 5 upshift, which lets the RPMs go up to stall speed (2100) and then it quickly drops back down to whatever normal RPM is at the speed the truck is at. Sometimes the transmission shifts “beautifully” from 6 to 5th with no real issue, but that’s rare.

At WOT, the engine hesitates MAJORLY, sticking at lets say every 300RPM for half a second, jumping up, then the cycle continues during WOT until the 2nd gear shift, which is extremely soft (can’t feel it either.) This is without A/C on and with traction control on.

With the A/C on, the truck barely moves under its own power until around 2200 where the RPMs jump and it continues with the same cycle of jumping up as mentioned above.

During normal driving, the 1-2 shift is absolutely fine with no issues. The 2-4 shift results in shift flare and uneven engine RPM increases (which i read is the torque converter unlocking and then locking back up, according to transengineer.)

Sometimes the 2-4 shift takes around 5 seconds to complete, and sometimes during the 2-4 shift the RPMs drop, hover at lets say 1700 RPMs for a second and then drop back down to where they’re supposed to be. 4-5, 5-6 shift flare as well with uneven RPM increases aswell.

Truck has no codes, took it to a trans shop and they have absolutely 0 idea as to what it’s doing, and that according to their computer the trans is doing everything the PCM is saying to do without issue.

The truck shifts better after a night of the battery being unplugged until the next time it’s cranked over, which results in it doing whatever it wants, shifting hard at times and shifting soft at others, and the occasional perfect shift.

I feel like i should add this too, if i didn’t before, the truck hasn’t had ANY metal in the pan and very little on the magnets every time i drop it, which as of recently, has been very frequently. Before this happened it had no metal on the pans either, only thing i haven’t done with the valve body dropped is test the clutches manually via an air compressor as i don’t have one to test it with.

If no one has an answer, i’m most likely gonna keep it on the side of my house and try to save up for a new 2020 tradesmen or something slightly better equipped.

Thanks for any help.


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NickSteel

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Forgot to add, plugs were just done at around 95K.


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Burla

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I'd start with fluid, the hot mark should be top, and low fluid can cause issues. Which valve body did you get, do you have a link?

For the tick, did you try some lubegard biotech?

How does the transmission shift when cold? Does temp seam to be any issue, better when hot or cold?
 
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NickSteel

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I'd start with fluid, the hot mark should be top, and low fluid can cause issues. Which valve body did you get, do you have a link?

For the tick, did you try some lubegard biotech?

How does the transmission shift when cold? Does temp seam to be any issue, better when hot or cold?

I added fluid, it’s shifting slightly better. It’s much better when hot, when cold the trans mildly slams into the first few gears during the first few shifts of the day.

So yes, temp is definitely a factor in how it shifts

link for the VB is below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303076525144

And no, i haven’t tried any oil additives yet, i’ve been trying out different oils recently though. I tried pennzoil, mobil 1, and now Castrol Edge.


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NickSteel

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I'd start with fluid, the hot mark should be top, and low fluid can cause issues. Which valve body did you get, do you have a link?

For the tick, did you try some lubegard biotech?

How does the transmission shift when cold? Does temp seam to be any issue, better when hot or cold?

It seems (knock on wood) that more fluid has evened out the uneven climb in RPMs between shifts slightly too, i haven’t tested it at WOT yet though. I also just found out that it’s normal for the engine to drop 300 RPM, hold it for a sec, and then complete the shift on the 2-4 shift. It’s to lock the torque converter apparently.


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NickSteel

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I'd start with fluid, the hot mark should be top, and low fluid can cause issues. Which valve body did you get, do you have a link?

For the tick, did you try some lubegard biotech?

How does the transmission shift when cold? Does temp seam to be any issue, better when hot or cold?

Wait, is the fluid level supposed to be OVER the top notch when hot?


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Burla

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Last notch from the bottom, but the good news is fluid has helped and you have a HD valve body. So in order to take advantage of the HD valve body you should increase line pressure with tune. How long have you had new VB on? You might need a quick learn.

Fix transmission first, then read the threads on lubegard and redline oil. Lubegard is something you can buy cheap and is good at lifter ticks.
 
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NickSteel

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Last notch from the bottom, but the good news is fluid has helped and you have a HD valve body. So in order to take advantage of the HD valve body you should increase line pressure with tune. How long have you had new VB on? You might need a quick learn.

Fix transmission first, then read the threads on lubegard and redline oil. Lubegard is something you can buy cheap and is good at lifter ticks.

I’ve had the new VB on for around 2 weeks. I’m thinking quicklearn too, and if i can’t get said quicklearn done that normal driving will help the trans relearn the CVI values and make it shift better with time.

Im looking into a tuner.


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NickSteel

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I did the throttle relearn thing which is putting the truck into run and putting the throttle to the floor and back off of it, and it cleared up about 90% of the issues with it. I’m thinking somethings wrong with my gauge cluster maybe as the engine hesitated in park when i revved it, according to the rpm gauge, but the engine didn’t based off of sound. The needles (both speedo and rpm) do shake and jitter at times.


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NickSteel

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I’m also thinking it might be something throttle position sensor related as i forgot about what happened a while back with a 2l bottle of soda exploding and getting under the dash mainly. I cleaned it the best i could but it seems that the TPS cable and the TPS itself are still sticky.


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Burla

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Let us know what is still going on with it. I wouldn't worry too much about gauges. If it is 90% better, that means you are still having some issues?
 
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NickSteel

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Let us know what is still going on with it. I wouldn't worry too much about gauges. If it is 90% better, that means you are still having some issues?

The uneven RPM increases are mostly gone. The shift flares, 6-5 gear issue, and engine hesitation issue with A/C on is still present, along with soft shifting.


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Burla

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5-6 gears is your overdrive, and those clutches tend to go first. Did I send you two video's on the rfe? Those clutches tend to fail from lack of lubrication, or inadequate, or old fluid, whatever, many causes. Can increasing pressure fix it, perhaps not. watch this one anyhow...

If the problem continues, you might even want to try an additive, might extend the life a bit. A trans shop should look at it.

 
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NickSteel

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5-6 gears is your overdrive, and those clutches tend to go first. Did I send you two video's on the rfe? Those clutches tend to fail from lack of lubrication, or inadequate, or old fluid, whatever, many causes. Can increasing pressure fix it, perhaps not. watch this one anyhow...

If the problem continues, you might even want to try an additive, might extend the life a bit.


I’m gonna check it out again to renew my knowledge, i recall already watching it.

The only thing i find strange is that the truck doesn’t slip at all from 1-2, 2-4, 4-5 and 5-6, it’s just the upshifting from 6 to 5 that’s strange to say the least.

It’s also not a normal slip, it’s not accompanied by any jutter, pulling back sensation or anything like that. It also speeds up if need be when it’s “slipping”, but the RPMs just go up to torque converter stall speed until the truck “shifts” back down into 5th. Which doesn’t make me think it’s actually slipping.

Something else to note is that i’d expect with heavy clutch/plate wear that the pan would have some metal in it, even very little and maybe chunks. This trans has never had any metal in it.


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NickSteel

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Forgot to add, i already ran a stall test on the torque converter and ruled that out.

Torque Converter Lockup: Perfect, happens after 4th

Torque Converter Stall Speed: 2100 RPM (Normal)

Torque Converter Unlock: Also fine, no feel to it.


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NickSteel

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5-6 gears is your overdrive, and those clutches tend to go first. Did I send you two video's on the rfe? Those clutches tend to fail from lack of lubrication, or inadequate, or old fluid, whatever, many causes. Can increasing pressure fix it, perhaps not. watch this one anyhow...

If the problem continues, you might even want to try an additive, might extend the life a bit. A trans shop should look at it.


Trans shop did look at it and they have absolutely 0 idea as to what’s wrong. They told me they took down the VB and tested the clutches and all of them applied fine, with no issues.

Told me to drive it until i get a check engine light and that’ll be a signal that something is actually wrong.


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Burla

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Yeah at this point I'd rule VB/SP out, and you ruled out TC, so what is left? The fact that it is 5-6 where the problem is, sounds like OD clutches in transmission to me.

I haven't looked a lot at transmission additives, but since your issues are at cold, no way would I use a thickner in the trans, which leaves lucas out. But maybe lubegard trans fix might be a solution, dunno man. I had a sticky clutch once and used autorx and it worked so good the dude that bought the vehicle got in touch with me ten years after he bought it telling me it was the best vehicle he ever had. That is a cleaner, and it worked. But, my sense is maybe that isn't your issue, maybe they are already bent. Wouldn't hurt to try, but I have no real advice to hand out as it sounds like small moves might not make this one better.

I'd just make sure when the gears are about to change, take your foot out of the gas as if it was a manual. Help the trans out with that habit, no wots, you might kill it real quick.
 
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NickSteel

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Yeah at this point I'd rule VB/SP out, and you ruled out TC, so what is left? The fact that it is 5-6 where the problem is, sounds like OD clutches in transmission to me.

I haven't looked a lot at transmission additives, but since your issues are at cold, no way would I use a thickner in the trans, which leaves lucas out. But maybe lubegard trans fix might be a solution, dunno man. I had a sticky clutch once and used autorx and it worked so good the dude that bought the vehicle got in touch with me ten years after he bought it telling me it was the best vehicle he ever had. That is a cleaner, and it worked. But, my sense is maybe that isn't your issue, maybe they are already bent. Wouldn't hurt to try, but I have no real advice to hand out as it sounds like small moves might not make this one better.

I'd just make sure when the gears are about to change, take your foot out of the gas as if it was a manual. Help the trans out with that habit, no wots, you might kill it real quick.

I was reading around and i found my exact issue, not on a RAM with the 65RFE but with a Chrysler vehicle:

https://www.promasterforum.com/threads/goofy-tach-or-slipping-trans.35913/

Apparently it’s normal, just to smooth things out. I guess i never paid attention to it as much as i do now.


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Burla

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This worked for me if you were to try an additive...

 
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