2013 1500 4.7 Issues Getting Worse

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Burla

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That link said a lot of TC shudder, I know lubegard has something just for that. But you don't get any shudder?

If it is normal, my truck doesn't do it.

I should have asked, the same issue when you use tow haul mode?
 

TheEnder

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Just to add my .02¢ here, what you’re experiencing is normal with the 4.7L 65RFE combo, and i’ll explain why:

The 4.7L unlike the 5.7L lacks a lot of power, especially when trying to speed up when already at high gear, lets say 6th.

If you have in this case 6th to 5th torque converter unlock, which is normal, you shouldn’t be worrying. Chrysler did this (don’t know how this makes sense) to save fuel, and put less wear on the internals of the trans, etc.

If you’re decelerating from 55 to 50 (which is when mine shifts from 6th to 5th, and mine exhibits the same behavior) and have to speed up right after the 6th to 5th downshift, or even DURING the 6th to 5th downshift, the PCM is going to tell the Torque Converter to unlock as to not jolt the truck or cause any premature wear to trans internals, like the torque converter clutch, 5th gear clutch, etc.

If it doesn’t do it with a complete deceleration, then you’re in the good. One thing you could do is get the truck up to speed and manually shift it to 5th when applying around 50% throttle. This will make it to where the torque converter doesn’t unlock.

If you have no gear ratio codes, no torque converter codes, i’d say you’re in the clear and to enjoy the truck. If any amount of slip is detected the PCM will 100% throw a code. You said the clutches apply well, no metal in the pan either so i don’t think there’s any massive internal damage done.


Sent from Blu Onyx
 
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NickSteel

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That link said a lot of TC shudder, I know lubegard has something just for that. But you don't get any shudder?

If it is normal, my truck doesn't do it.

I should have asked, the same issue when you use tow haul mode?

No, it doesn’t do it in Tow/Haul.

Also, no shudder at all.


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Burla

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So tow haul increases line pressure, as well keeps engine in high rpm. New strategy, stay in tow haul 24/7 and on freeway watch high speeds, maybe keep it at 65.

I forget if tow haul allows overdrive, if not maybe that is why it isn't doing it I see if I can look it up on alpar.
 

TheEnder

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So tow haul increases line pressure, as well keeps engine in high rpm. New strategy, stay in tow haul 24/7 and on freeway watch high speeds, maybe keep it at 65.

I forget if tow haul allows overdrive, if not maybe that is why it isn't doing it I see if I can look it up on alpar.

Tow/Haul allows up to 5th, not 6th.


Sent from Blu Onyx
 

Burla

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From alpar.....

The Tow/Haul mode still allowed overdrive unless the driver locked it out.
 

TheEnder

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From alpar.....

The Tow/Haul mode still allowed overdrive unless the driver locked it out.

I’m guessing they’re talking about 5th then. My truck (don’t know about Nicks) doesn’t go into 6th in Tow Haul.


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Burla

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ram forum post on th as well, if you don't want OD lock it out with th.
 

Burla

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I’m guessing they’re talking about 5th then. My truck (don’t know about Nicks) doesn’t go into 6th in Tow Haul.


Sent from Blu Onyx

that was early 4 gen, but neither here nor there, he can manually lock out od and use th, problem fixed for now...

:)
 

crackerjack1957

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Yeah, 5th in a 65RFE is overdrive also so could be confusing.
 

TheEnder

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Yeah, 5th in a 65RFE is overdrive also so could be confusing.

Yeah. The whole reason i think Burla’s doesn’t do it (or any hemi equipped 65RFE uses) is because of much different tuning. Hemi has 90+ more HP/Torque so it doesn’t need to do it.


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Burla

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True, and that Burla has the 545 rfe so I don't even have a 6th gear.
 
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NickSteel

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So, i think i found my issue, and it may be the gauge cluster.

Going through gears like usual, rpms jumped not once but twice between the shift from 4-5, and so i thought that i should press the gas pedal down more when the RPMs jumped next.

It didn’t shift, RPMs stayed the exact same and climbed nicely into the next shift.

I’m thinking since the cluster is one of the first to be produced, maybe the needles are sticking. Both the tachometer and speedometer jump around from time to time, at the exact same times.

Hitting the cluster also makes the tach jump from around 100-300 RPM.


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Burla

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So, i think i found my issue, and it may be the gauge cluster.

Going through gears like usual, rpms jumped not once but twice between the shift from 4-5, and so i thought that i should press the gas pedal down more when the RPMs jumped next.

It didn’t shift, RPMs stayed the exact same and climbed nicely into the next shift.

I’m thinking since the cluster is one of the first to be produced, maybe the needles are sticking. Both the tachometer and speedometer jump around from time to time, at the exact same times.

Hitting the cluster also makes the tach jump from around 100-300 RPM.


Sent from iPhone 10S Max

rlk did a cluster upgrade in dyi section, check it out.
 
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NickSteel

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rlk did a cluster upgrade in dyi section, check it out.

I will. I did a cluster self test and the speedo didn’t move, gas gauge didn’t either and the oil press gauge didn’t. I don’t know if that’s normal, but they didn’t budge.


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Burla

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I will. I did a cluster self test and the speedo didn’t move, gas gauge didn’t either and the oil press gauge didn’t. I don’t know if that’s normal, but they didn’t budge.


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Here it is, and it is your year.
 
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NickSteel

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Turns out i was wrong, the cluster is displaying what it should be, i verified via scan tool.

I have a video of it doing it, it’s noticeable from 2-4, 4-5 and 5-6, although hard to see as i’m not accelerating hard (it’s more pronounced on hard accel.)

Is this normal?


Forgot to add, fluid level is perfect, right between the middle of the O in HOT on the dipstick at 172°.


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NickSteel

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I’ll upload more videos tonight under harder acceleration so it’s more visible.


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NickSteel

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Could bad spark plugs cause shift flaring? I’m reading about it, and it could explain my engine hesitation issues that didn’t start until after i changed the plugs, and explain all the major issues that started after. I’ve noticed when it’s colder outside that the truck shifts much better when at operating temp vs when it’s hot outside


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BlackedOutRam00

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Quick rundown, i’ve been having issues with this truck since late last year/early this year.

Truck has just barely under 101K on it, and the *only* thing that runs good on it is the A/C and that the seats feel nice.

Issues started with engine ticking on startup, which really wasn’t much of an issue as it fully went away when it was warmed up, but then as of recently the ticking is staying (albeit very quiet) when it’s fully warmed. The tick is 3 ticks when warm all in a line, it starts off quiet, the middle tick is slightly louder and the next one is the loudest, followed by silence for around 2-5 seconds.

Truck has had oil changes (full synthetic) every 3K.

Now, as for the recent trans issues that have been getting worse pretty much by the week.

Trans fluid when hot (170°F) is at the lower notch of the *HOT* notches, but it doesn’t fill up the bottom hole totally, even though the fluid is slightly over it.

As for the issues, a few months back i had a split flat sump filter that i replaced and the truck started to act better, but not fully. The only thing this took care of was the P0868 at WOT.

These trans have issues with the clutches burning etc, but i’ve never had much or any metal on the magnets so i can imagine they’re fine, and that it’s something electrical related possibly.

I followed what i’ve seen burla say on a few forum posts, replacing the valve body and solenoid pack etc with higher build quality ones, and same issues.

The issues are that the trans shifts extremely softly normally, and sometimes it’ll shift nice and firm, on its own, with nothing being done to it.

The trans also occasionally slips the converter on the 6 to 5 upshift, which lets the RPMs go up to stall speed (2100) and then it quickly drops back down to whatever normal RPM is at the speed the truck is at. Sometimes the transmission shifts “beautifully” from 6 to 5th with no real issue, but that’s rare.

At WOT, the engine hesitates MAJORLY, sticking at lets say every 300RPM for half a second, jumping up, then the cycle continues during WOT until the 2nd gear shift, which is extremely soft (can’t feel it either.) This is without A/C on and with traction control on.

With the A/C on, the truck barely moves under its own power until around 2200 where the RPMs jump and it continues with the same cycle of jumping up as mentioned above.

During normal driving, the 1-2 shift is absolutely fine with no issues. The 2-4 shift results in shift flare and uneven engine RPM increases (which i read is the torque converter unlocking and then locking back up, according to transengineer.)

Sometimes the 2-4 shift takes around 5 seconds to complete, and sometimes during the 2-4 shift the RPMs drop, hover at lets say 1700 RPMs for a second and then drop back down to where they’re supposed to be. 4-5, 5-6 shift flare as well with uneven RPM increases aswell.

Truck has no codes, took it to a trans shop and they have absolutely 0 idea as to what it’s doing, and that according to their computer the trans is doing everything the PCM is saying to do without issue.

The truck shifts better after a night of the battery being unplugged until the next time it’s cranked over, which results in it doing whatever it wants, shifting hard at times and shifting soft at others, and the occasional perfect shift.

I feel like i should add this too, if i didn’t before, the truck hasn’t had ANY metal in the pan and very little on the magnets every time i drop it, which as of recently, has been very frequently. Before this happened it had no metal on the pans either, only thing i haven’t done with the valve body dropped is test the clutches manually via an air compressor as i don’t have one to test it with.

If no one has an answer, i’m most likely gonna keep it on the side of my house and try to save up for a new 2020 tradesmen or something slightly better equipped.

Thanks for any help.


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More than likely need new trans. Mine used to get that hot then one day if blew. Costed me 2200 not terrible since i bought used trans with 30k on it basically new. My engine ticks too I'd run a can of seafoam in oil after oil change do 3000 mile interval. Then start using 10w30 mobil1 high mileage. Still ticks but not nearly as bad as it was. Mine idles at 500rpm stop light doesn't even feel like its running. Let the transmission blow up before replacing its easier to get a used one with low miles and cheaper than a "new one"
 
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