6.4L 180°F Stat

[WY.Ram]

I've been searching for a 180°F stat for the truck 6.4L Since I learned that the OE Setpoint is 216°F. And by searching I mean butchering a couple three of them In an effort to modify the spring /spring rate by changing, cutting, mangling, and even a touch of begging the original spring.

When I first tried the list price for a replacement was $334[emoji1787][emoji106] whatever, I never paid that but I did let it **** me off once. They now cost $90 to $130 and that is for a 216F stat, As of this post and to my knowledge, a 180F does not exist for 6.4L truck. Even though there are other vehicles with the identical water pump, 5.7L truck 1500 or 2500, only the 6.4L truck has this pos housing integrated with the valve and what appears to be the ECT sensor. ( but thats an incorrect assumption that successfully kept me from possible solutions to try)

With the help and enlightenment of a couple forum members (Thank you);
@Wild one
@crazykid1994
@RedSRT4Me
@Lyle Longboat

I have a very near solution and quite possibly a final solution for a 180F stat. It worked beautifully in a pot of water, but remains untested Hemi -side until I get my topend reassembled. A day or two should be all, depends on if my Wife does my parts runs for all the stuff I forget or If I have to myself.lol

Two pics, both pics show red pointers to the 6,4L OE housing legs I had to remove to get the 6,4L car valve to fit into my housing.

Another possibility is to use the Smaller black housing shown, which is the housing normally paired with the new valve. I chose the OE housing because the new stat valve doesn't fit recessed in it's own housing. The new housing would still work with the new stat valve sandwiched with a gasket on each side.

cost;
part# 41680
Murray premium quality t-stat - $22

Optional part #85341
Murray Water Outlet (housing) - $22

Optional part #35840 x 2
Gasket - $6 each $12 total

See photo

Still need to test on truck and will followup with results asap

Thanks fellas, good talk!





'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[RedSRT4Me]

I've been searching for a 180°F stat for the truck 6.4L Since I learned that the OE Setpoint is 216°F. And by searching I mean butchering a couple three of them In an effort to modify the spring /spring rate by changing, cutting, mangling, and even a touch of begging the original spring.

When I first tried the list price for a replacement was $334[emoji1787][emoji106] whatever, I never paid that but I did let it **** me off once. They now cost $90 to $130 and that is for a 216F stat, As of this post and to my knowledge, a 180F does not exist for 6.4L truck. Even though there are other vehicles with the identical water pump, 5.7L truck 1500 or 2500, only the 6.4L truck has this pos housing integrated with the valve and what appears to be the ECT sensor. ( but thats an incorrect assumption that successfully kept me from possible solutions to try)

With the help and enlightenment of a couple forum members (Thank you);
@Wildone
@crazykid1994
@RedSRT4Me

I have a very near solution and quite possibly a final solution for a 180F stat. It worked beautifully in a pot of water, but remains untested Hemi -side until I get my topend reassembled. A day or two should be all, depends on if my Wife does my parts runs for all the stuff I forget or If I have to myself.lol

Two pics, both pics show red pointers to the 6,4L OE housing legs I had to remove to get the 6,4L car valve to fit into my housing.

Another possibility is to use the Smaller black housing shown, which is the housing normally paired with the new valve. I chose the OE housing because the new stat valve doesn't fit recessed in it's own housing. The new housing would still work with the new stat valve sandwiched with a gasket on each side.

cost;
part# 41680
Murray premium quality t-stat - $22

Optional part #85341
Murray Water Outlet (housing) - $22

Optional part #35840 x 2
Gasket - $6 each $12 total

See photo

Still need to test on truck and will followup with results asap

Thanks fellas, good talk!





'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

Awesome work. If it can be done I'm sure you'll figure it out.

I would encourage a CMR tuner to try adjusting that TStat in the truck 6.4 tune. If it's commanded to open at 180° F you would think it would.

 

[Wild one]

I've been searching for a 180°F stat for the truck 6.4L Since I learned that the OE Setpoint is 216°F. And by searching I mean butchering a couple three of them In an effort to modify the spring /spring rate by changing, cutting, mangling, and even a touch of begging the original spring.

When I first tried the list price for a replacement was $334[emoji1787][emoji106] whatever, I never paid that but I did let it **** me off once. They now cost $90 to $130 and that is for a 216F stat, As of this post and to my knowledge, a 180F does not exist for 6.4L truck. Even though there are other vehicles with the identical water pump, 5.7L truck 1500 or 2500, only the 6.4L truck has this pos housing integrated with the valve and what appears to be the ECT sensor. ( but thats an incorrect assumption that successfully kept me from possible solutions to try)

With the help and enlightenment of a couple forum members (Thank you);
@Wild one
@crazykid1994
@RedSRT4Me
@Lyle Longboat

I have a very near solution and quite possibly a final solution for a 180F stat. It worked beautifully in a pot of water, but remains untested Hemi -side until I get my topend reassembled. A day or two should be all, depends on if my Wife does my parts runs for all the stuff I forget or If I have to myself.lol

Two pics, both pics show red pointers to the 6,4L OE housing legs I had to remove to get the 6,4L car valve to fit into my housing.

Another possibility is to use the Smaller black housing shown, which is the housing normally paired with the new valve. I chose the OE housing because the new stat valve doesn't fit recessed in it's own housing. The new housing would still work with the new stat valve sandwiched with a gasket on each side.

cost;
part# 41680
Murray premium quality t-stat - $22

Optional part #85341
Murray Water Outlet (housing) - $22

Optional part #35840 x 2
Gasket - $6 each $12 total

See photo

Still need to test on truck and will followup with results asap

Thanks fellas, good talk!





'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

Now that's some Macgivering,lol. It looks good,my hats off to you.I'd think if it works in a pot of water on the stove,it should work in the truck itself.

 

[Wild one]

Awesome work. If it can be done I'm sure you'll figure it out.

I would encourage a CMR tuner to try adjusting that TStat in the truck 6.4 tune. If it's commanded to open at 180° F you would think it would.

Might be better off with HP tuning,as HP has access to more tune parameters then Diablo's CMR platform does,but you might be onto to something about the thermostat being adjustable with-in a tune

 

[crazykid1994]

If you buy the newer style tstat it has a gasket on it that should fit in the recess on your factory water pump instead of using that paper gasket. Then the factory housing should sandwich it down to seal it. The one pictured is a spare 180° that I keep. Used it for a while before I switched up to a 190°

 

[Wild one]

If you buy the newer style tstat it has a gasket on it that should fit in the recess on your factory water pump instead of using that paper gasket. Then the factory housing should sandwich it down to seal it. The one pictured is a spare 180° that I keep. Used it for a while before I switched up to a 190°

View attachment 238536

If you go back to his other post with pics of the water pump/front cover,and look close,it looks like the truck 6.4's don't have the recess for the thermostat and rubber gasket to sit into Kris. I was looking at Wy's pic's on the other thread last night,and it looks like there's no thermostat recess on the truck 6.4's

 

[crazykid1994]

If you go back to his other post with pics of the water pump/front cover,and look close,it looks like the truck 6.4's don't have the recess for the thermostat and rubber gasket to sit into Kris. I was looking at Wy's pic's on the other thread last night,and it looks like there's no thermostat recess on the truck 6.4's

Good point. I just went back and looked. Yes. Tstat and a gasket will be the way to go

 

[WY.Ram]

All correct posts. New stat did have that big gasket on circumference but I've no recess. Should have seen my disappointment when parts dude opened it up and pulled out this thick stat. He **** on my parade, but he was helpful. And we messed with it for a bit, popped it right off.
He looked up everything I asked, 2020 Hellcat. Has the 392, truck 5.7 (has an identical water pump according to an explodedview diagram), car/suv 5.7, and truck 5.7 2500. All use the same part number. But not the truck 6.4. Wtf?

I thought that sensor/ device in the stat was some sort of solenoid or valve control for a while because no matter how I cut the spring up, it maintained the same or near same op. Was three years ago and I dismissed it, thinking a little extreme. But if its not ect sensor...... funny too, the manual I was using doesn't even mention it being there.

The sensor, I just found the connector tonight, last night , two pin. I'll test voltage tomorrow. I haven't started my truck in six months, it was ready about 2am, but I was to nervous to hit the key. I busted ass to get it ready. For like two weeks, flushed the coolant. Valve covers off, and the ambient temps were 22F and within a minute or two, ice cycles all over from the coolant system flush. That was my anxiety. A cold start w new valve train. I couldn't do it. . So then engine was full of ice cold water. And freezing balls out. F, I wasn't ready to add antifreeze yet.

I stole my wife's electric heater from her home office, hah, she'll be pissed in about an hour, but anything for the truck.......

So, a first start in a couple hours with a lot of new stuff. I am so nervous what if I f something up. Job was such a pain in the ass, I am so f sore, and engine rebuild in vehicle, not my recommendation. At least get a topside creeper. Mine got here today, f Sunday. I used it to torque intake, finish up cooling system. I've been laying across rad crossmember for 100 hrs, feels like anyway.

I'll let you know if it holds temp. And what I measure for voltage at the sensor. That's if it runs long enough for break-in or even starts. Can't sleep. Way to freaked out. If something isn't right and I gotta go back in. Deep , ima gonna f crying like a b...... Scuse the language. Been a mean week, I think I lost, ass kicked.

Mistakes made: broke an m6 off in the head. The one that holds the lifter rail,, yeah no ****, anxiety. Then two days later I crossed a header bolt. F I was pissed, totally my fault. And that was driver side with 3 bolts already in.

Chrysler engineers anyway. So much of that truck is over designed and then the gave me a cam shaft made ought of playdoh.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[crazykid1994]

So if it’s a bge block I wonder if you could switch to a newer style hellcat water pump and use that setup since it should be a direct bolt in.

 

[Wild one]

So if it’s a bge block I wonder if you could switch to a newer style hellcat water pump and use that setup since it should be a direct bolt in.

Or pull it back off and have a machine shop machine a recess for the thermostat,that might be the cheaper/easier way to go,lol

 

[RedSRT4Me]

All correct posts. New stat did have that big gasket on circumference but I've no recess. Should have seen my disappointment when parts dude opened it up and pulled out this thick stat. He **** on my parade, but he was helpful. And we messed with it for a bit, popped it right off.
He looked up everything I asked, 2020 Hellcat. Has the 392, truck 5.7 (has an identical water pump according to an explodedview diagram), car/suv 5.7, and truck 5.7 2500. All use the same part number. But not the truck 6.4. Wtf?

I thought that sensor/ device in the stat was some sort of solenoid or valve control for a while because no matter how I cut the spring up, it maintained the same or near same op. Was three years ago and I dismissed it, thinking a little extreme. But if its not ect sensor...... funny too, the manual I was using doesn't even mention it being there.

The sensor, I just found the connector tonight, last night , two pin. I'll test voltage tomorrow. I haven't started my truck in six months, it was ready about 2am, but I was to nervous to hit the key. I busted ass to get it ready. For like two weeks, flushed the coolant. Valve covers off, and the ambient temps were 22F and within a minute or two, ice cycles all over from the coolant system flush. That was my anxiety. A cold start w new valve train. I couldn't do it. . So then engine was full of ice cold water. And freezing balls out. F, I wasn't ready to add antifreeze yet.

I stole my wife's electric heater from her home office, hah, she'll be pissed in about an hour, but anything for the truck.......

So, a first start in a couple hours with a lot of new stuff. I am so nervous what if I f something up. Job was such a pain in the ass, I am so f sore, and engine rebuild in vehicle, not my recommendation. At least get a topside creeper. Mine got here today, f Sunday. I used it to torque intake, finish up cooling system. I've been laying across rad crossmember for 100 hrs, feels like anyway.

I'll let you know if it holds temp. And what I measure for voltage at the sensor. That's if it runs long enough for break-in or even starts. Can't sleep. Way to freaked out. If something isn't right and I gotta go back in. Deep , ima gonna f crying like a b...... Scuse the language. Been a mean week, I think I lost, ass kicked.

Mistakes made: broke an m6 off in the head. The one that holds the lifter rail,, yeah no ****, anxiety. Then two days later I crossed a header bolt. F I was pissed, totally my fault. And that was driver side with 3 bolts already in.

Chrysler engineers anyway. So much of that truck is over designed and then the gave me a cam shaft made ought of playdoh.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

Oh brother I feel your pain. I know very similar thoughts when I'm frustrated or it's 9pm at night and I need more hardware because the truck ate or destroyed all the nuts and bolts. My favorite is when you have one piece of hardware left and you drop it. Spend 2 hours fishing it out because that sob dropped into the frame. Mirror and magnets and the ongoing questioning of why TF am I doing this????

But when the beast is on or offroad I quickly remember why.

 

[WY.Ram]

This^^^^^^^^^^lmao. So true

For follow up - the mod is working great, controlling fairly tight at 185F. I'm stoked.

The valve fit perfectly within the OE rubber gasket so I tried to mount it as such, but had some difficulty getting the valve to stay put due to lack of recess (and patience), so second try I ran a thin bead of permatex around the perimeter of the valve it stuck to the housing nicely as I flipped it over and mounted it to the waterpump.

Since I used the OE housing, I just took the not-a-temp-sensor unit and stuck it in it's original location. It only sank about 1cm down into its hole but it was more than enough to hold it. So there it protrudes but no codes thrown after 100 miles down.

Hoo ran fellas. I have three more OE housings if anyone doesn't wanna cut theirs but wants a lower than 216F t-stat in their 392, shout at me.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[Wild one]

This^^^^^^^^^^lmao. So true

For follow up - the mod is working great, controlling fairly tight at 185F. I'm stoked.

The valve fit perfectly within the OE rubber gasket so I tried to mount it as such, but had some difficulty getting the valve to stay put due to lack of recess (and patience), so second try I ran a thin bead of permatex around the perimeter of the valve it stuck to the housing nicely as I flipped it over and mounted it to the waterpump.

Since I used the OE housing, I just took the not-a-temp-sensor unit and stuck it in it's original location. It only sank about 1cm down into its hole but it was more than enough to hold it. So there it protrudes but no codes thrown after 100 miles down.

Hoo ran fellas. I have three more OE housings if anyone doesn't wanna cut theirs but wants a lower than 216F t-stat in their 392, shout at me.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

There might be a small niche market if you modded them and had everything already glued in place,lol.

 

[WY.Ram]

There might be a small niche market if you modded them and had everything already glued in place,lol.

Ya know I could myself getting tremendous Satisfaction from such an endeavor. First get to help a mod brother and his truck, then the denying big Corp their fantasy need to be the one in Control, "because we said .....". Flip'n them the bird by changing as many stats as there are 2500 's. And then the fact that I got my butt handed to me by a gawd dam thermostat for 4 years and in the end, after buying 3 OE replacements, 6 standard style stat valveS for their springs, 1 standard housing, 2 gaskets, 5ish gallons of coolant, estimated 30hrs in the kitchen watching water boil again, again, again, a face full of hot liquid paraffin Wax once, and all the anxiety of spending $130 on stat that I start hacking up the momentI get it, (one ugly list). After all that failure and expense, to end up with a 180F stat is a burden lifted, to actually pick up a market niche, no matter how small, even 1, that my friend is f priceless. LOL

I thank You guys and if there Is anything I can ever do or anything I can smuggle across our boarder, You Just Say the word (I'll Send my wife) kidding. Seriously though whatever whenever.

Hey that thermocouple looking sensor gizmo, two wire connector running right down the middle of the valve ~ I think y'all are correct in Its a ground, two wire ground. DC Voltage measurement from the prong in the opened connector to the battery neg post was O volts for both connector prongs & prong to battery 12 v dc was 12 v dc. Truck was not running but k ey was in run position. No error or code shown with the connection open. When It was a Sensor it helped Justify the price, now that it's a f ground rod........we'll Just add It to my above list. Right on brother, talk soon

brett

 

[caulk04]

I thought that sensor/ device in the stat was some sort of solenoid or valve control for a while because no matter how I cut the spring up, it maintained the same or near same op.

The spring on a thermostat plays no role in the temperature at which is opens. The center portion is a wax motor that expands when heated, this controls the opening temp. The spring is there to close up the works once the temp lowers. The wax motor cannot contract itself. The smaller spring you find in thermostats is there to absorb overtravel from the wax motor once the 'valve' is closed.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

So in the end just get the 5.7 180° tstat, housing, and tuning. Done?

 

[Wild one]

Ya know I could myself getting tremendous Satisfaction from such an endeavor. First get to help a mod brother and his truck, then the denying big Corp their fantasy need to be the one in Control, "because we said .....". Flip'n them the bird by changing as many stats as there are 2500 's. And then the fact that I got my butt handed to me by a gawd dam thermostat for 4 years and in the end, after buying 3 OE replacements, 6 standard style stat valveS for their springs, 1 standard housing, 2 gaskets, 5ish gallons of coolant, estimated 30hrs in the kitchen watching water boil again, again, again, a face full of hot liquid paraffin Wax once, and all the anxiety of spending $130 on stat that I start hacking up the momentI get it, (one ugly list). After all that failure and expense, to end up with a 180F stat is a burden lifted, to actually pick up a market niche, no matter how small, even 1, that my friend is f priceless. LOL

I thank You guys and if there Is anything I can ever do or anything I can smuggle across our boarder, You Just Say the word (I'll Send my wife) kidding. Seriously though whatever whenever.

Hey that thermocouple looking sensor gizmo, two wire connector running right down the middle of the valve ~ I think y'all are correct in Its a ground, two wire ground. DC Voltage measurement from the prong in the opened connector to the battery neg post was O volts for both connector prongs & prong to battery 12 v dc was 12 v dc. Truck was not running but k ey was in run position. No error or code shown with the connection open. When It was a Sensor it helped Justify the price, now that it's a f ground rod........we'll Just add It to my above list. Right on brother, talk soon

brett

Now that made me laugh Brett,lol. I can relate ,there's times i've spent a bunch of money,then found a way cheaper way to do it,and kicked my ass afterwards.Prime example being the fancy/dancy high dollar Rev Max thermostat bypass for the 8 speed in my truck (200 bucks Canuck),that i bought a month or 2 back, then discovered 2 bucks in set screws accomplished the same damn thing,"boot/boot/boot",that's me still kicking my ass, i feel your pain,lol
Rick

 

[WY.Ram]

The spring on a thermostat plays no role in the temperature at which is opens. The center portion is a wax motor that expands when heated, this controls the opening temp. The spring is there to close up the works once the temp lowers. The wax motor cannot contract itself. The smaller spring you find in thermostats is there to absorb overtravel from the wax motor once the 'valve' is closed.

Well now. Isn't that interesting. No wonder every f spring i tried did nothing, even when I went springless they wouldn't open (tuff to reach 216F in a soup pan with water at any elevation but definitely at 7000ft. Boiling at 203F ish)
So I knew all the wax motor workings opened the stat but I guess in mind the paraffin expanded against the spring pressure, pick a spring rate, have an opening temp but I see the error in my thought process.
Thanks for clearing that up for me because it has been plaguing my mind, Unresolved, unsuccessful physics problems f me up. They never leave me. But this one I get to file away. No loose ends, nice and tidy. (Other then all the tstat parts strung out on every surface in shop) lol

@RedSRT4Me - the 5.7 stst and housing are a good option. A couple things to note is the timing chain cover/ water pump housing has no recess area for the stat to nestle into. Gasket material on both sides of stat, and no recess on housing to keep the little sucker from sliding out of being centered. It could be handled for sure. The 'legs" on the 6.4 housing whittled down super easy with a dremel or other grind, then the stat has the reusable rubber gasket that stays in the housing to hold the stat in place. I should say "help ' hold in place. First try light leak. Gasket kinda rolled folded under the first try. I'da got it eventually but I was so over f with this stat that I put the stst into/onto housing and ran a thin film of permatex along the flange perimeter of stat. Keep it in place for me until torqued.down.

The only other 6.4 housing advantage is the probe hole. If one wants to add a pwm controller. That port could be used for the new temp sensor if the new temp sensor is a similar shape as that ground probe. Could that possibly work with auto cool guys setup?

 

[crazykid1994]

Well now. Isn't that interesting. No wonder every f spring i tried did nothing, even when I went springless they wouldn't open (tuff to reach 216F in a soup pan with water at any elevation but definitely at 7000ft. Boiling at 203F ish)
So I knew all the wax motor workings opened the stat but I guess in mind the paraffin expanded against the spring pressure, pick a spring rate, have an opening temp but I see the error in my thought process.
Thanks for clearing that up for me because it has been plaguing my mind, Unresolved, unsuccessful physics problems f me up. They never leave me. But this one I get to file away. No loose ends, nice and tidy. (Other then all the tstat parts strung out on every surface in shop) lol

@RedSRT4Me - the 5.7 stst and housing are a good option. A couple things to note is the timing chain cover/ water pump housing has no recess area for the stat to nestle into. Gasket material on both sides of stat, and no recess on housing to keep the little sucker from sliding out of being centered. It could be handled for sure. The 'legs" on the 6.4 housing whittled down super easy with a dremel or other grind, then the stat has the reusable rubber gasket that stays in the housing to hold the stat in place. I should say "help ' hold in place. First try light leak. Gasket kinda rolled folded under the first try. I'da got it eventually but I was so over f with this stat that I put the stst into/onto housing and ran a thin film of permatex along the flange perimeter of stat. Keep it in place for me until torqued.down.

The only other 6.4 housing advantage is the probe hole. If one wants to add a pwm controller. That port could be used for the new temp sensor if the new temp sensor is a similar shape as that ground probe. Could that possibly work with auto cool guys setup?

The autocoolguy sensor has to be on the cold side of the radiator to function properly. It cools the radiator based on how much heat makes it passed to keep temps returning to the engine low. That’s actually why I like the auto cool setup. The stock setup cycles on and off based on temp leaving the engine.

 

[WY.Ram]

The spring on a thermostat plays no role in the temperature at which is opens. The center portion is a wax motor that expands when heated, this controls the opening temp. The spring is there to close up the works once the temp lowers. The wax motor cannot contract itself. The smaller spring you find in thermostats is there to absorb overtravel from the wax motor once the 'valve' is closed.

Ok I would like to revisit this comment because upon further review, it just doesn't make sense to me. A couple of things, First if the wax motor controls the opening temp then how are different stats configured for different temps if they all use paraffin wax in the wax motor hmmm?

Paraffin wax has a melting point of 100F to as high as 154F depending on manufacturing process and refinement level. So it doesn't seem quite inline that only paraffin is controlling the opening temp.

Second, you say that "the spring closes the works when the temp lowers enough". When exactly is this happening? Does it vary each time. No it does not it consistently closes the valve at the temperature when the spring pressure overcomes the thermal expansion pressure of the paraffin wax, It's the same temp that opens the valve when the paraffin overcomes the spring pressure when heating up, or .,...the opening temp.

The paraffin wax motor is responsible for opening the valve, the spring pressure and the wax pressure control the temp at which it opens and closes. Without the spring they would all open at 154F, the melting point of paraffin.

Whatever my issue was with this particular stat I don't know, still don't know, but I don't think it was that spring pressure has nothing to do with opening temp.

I am open minded tho, so please feel free to bounce it back and set it straight. [emoji482][emoji897]

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................