Air Suspension Delete regrets? Dealer wants $4800 to fix.

[MMM]

So, I have a 2014 Laramie Crew Cab with only 47k miles.
Just put on my first new set of tires and brakes.
Short story long...
When I park my truck in bad parking lots, I left the suspension to high, so if someone opens there door into my truck, they hit the steps and not my doors.
Well, yesterday, I got the dreaded Air Suspension System Cooling and now disabled.
I did the various things to reset, no go.
So the ass end is way up and the front is on the bump-stops.
It is very rough riding, to say the least.
Dealer can't fit me in for 2 weeks.
***Update: Dealer wants $4,800 to replace just he pump and distribution block!

My extended warranty ended recently, so that's out. On the good side, I never used it, so they refunder me the $2350.
So, anyone who as used AirDelete, do you regret it?
I love the ride quality of it now and I don't tow, so I was thinking I may get away with the base $1050.
Is it worth going for stock height and ride comfort?

I have the tools, but not sure how difficult it really is doing in my cul-da-sac on jack stands. I hear people even leave the old rear bump-stops in.

I'd like to hear your opinions.

If the thing could get working for a month, I'd get rid or it. Never wanted the air suspension, but that's how all the dealers order these.

Thank you!

 

[DA67Goatman]

How handy are you? I wish I would have done mine differently. I went fromfactory 4 corner to Accuair to steel springs and then added helper airbags. I wish I would have just went full manual and kept the air ride.

 

[MMM]

How handy are you? I wish I would have done mine differently. I went fromfactory 4 corner to Accuair to steel springs and then added helper airbags. I wish I would have just went full manual and kept the air ride.

Handy enough I suppose, I have most of the tools.
Back 30 years ago, I was pulling engines, etc.
If I knew the repair cost was reasonable and would last, I have no issue to repairing it.
However, I read here that some dealers don't troubleshoot properly.
The dealer can't take me in for 2 weeks and I would think it would be a few days for them to diagnose, order parts and repair.

I want to say the issue is the front passenger side, as it seems a little lower than the drivers side.
The rear end is way up in the air, so I'm sure no issue there.

 

[DA67Goatman]

AlphaOBD will allow you to delete the factory compressor and valve assembly pretty cheaply($50).
You can re-use the struts and airsprings as long as they are not leaking($0).
There are plenty of decent air ride switch/gauge panels($200) that will let you control the pressure in each corner for much less than an electronic controller($500+).
You have many options for compressor and tank setups. You can get away with a little 12v tire pump($20) and directly inflate each spring. Or all the way to putting in a serious compressor like the ARB Twin ($600) with a storage tank ($120) if you wanted more volume/ pressure for say running some air tools or inflating multiple tires fairly quickly.
Only you can decide what your intended uses are and how involved you want to get.
The plastic/nylon lines are easy to reconfigure no special tools required and relatively cheap for push-connect fittings($100)
I would start by doing a little troubleshooting to determine if your strut is leaking or the manifold/valveblock is faulty

 

[MMM]

AlphaOBD will allow you to delete the factory compressor and valve assembly pretty cheaply($50).
You can re-use the struts and airsprings as long as they are not leaking($0).
There are plenty of decent air ride switch/gauge panels($200) that will let you control the pressure in each corner for much less than an electronic controller($500+).
You have many options for compressor and tank setups. You can get away with a little 12v tire pump($20) and directly inflate each spring. Or all the way to putting in a serious compressor like the ARB Twin ($600) with a storage tank ($120) if you wanted more volume/ pressure for say running some air tools or inflating multiple tires fairly quickly.
Only you can decide what your intended uses are and how involved you want to get.
The plastic/nylon lines are easy to reconfigure no special tools required and relatively cheap for push-connect fittings($100)
I would start by doing a little troubleshooting to determine if your strut is leaking or the manifold/valveblock is faulty

Dealer quoted me $4800 to replace the compressor and block. They are out of their minds.

 

[Tegoby]

How handy are you? I wish I would have done mine differently. I went fromfactory 4 corner to Accuair to steel springs and then added helper airbags. I wish I would have just went full manual and kept the air ride.

What do you mean by "full manual and keeping the air ride"? Reason I am asking is because I need to put helper air springs on my 1500 with air ride and I'd love not to get rid of the air ride. I have blown 2 air spring already due to overloading the air suspension an need to help it a bit.

 

[MMM]

What do you mean by "full manual and keeping the air ride"? Reason I am asking is because I need to put helper air springs on my 1500 with air ride and I'd love not to get rid of the air ride. I have blown 2 air spring already due to overloading the air suspension an need to help it a bit.

I bought alphaODB, it told me there was a short in the temperature sensor. Ordered the $40 sensor from RMT manufacturing and it fixed the problem. Took me about an hour of being a contortionist to get out the old sensor. LoL

 

[madtrucker2016]

At this point you can bring to a local shop and fix it for a fraction of their price I would say. Today dealers are filled with very young under-experienced workers, so local shops would handle your problem and keep some money in your pocket.

 

[Randy Grant]

Compressor that I don't need. DM

 

[MMM]

So, a couple months ago, I bought AlphaOBD and MX+ BT dongle. It said I had a shorted temperature sensor. Took a chance on a $40 replacement from RMT off of Amazon. About an hour's worth of time and being a contortionist getting that T25 off and it fixed the issue.
A t25 bit with a 1/4" ratchet wrench did the trick. I did remove a brace underneath from the bumper to frame, just to make my life a little easier.
There were cheaper OBD dongles, but I got the better one.
Things I used...

https://amzn.to/45WSzyu

https://amzn.to/3QGCzfW

https://amzn.to/3MiHP6Q