Alignment needed from leveling (2500)?

[rzr6-4]

So I’m planning to level my 2500 but I want to double check my alignment theory. When you lift a 1500 with the IFS you obviously have to get a full alignment as your geometry (camber, toe, caster, etc) all changes through your travel so you need to reset those values for your new height. The 2500 being a solid axle though, most of that is fixed. Increasing height will pull the drag link over a little so I will need to lengthen it but that’s a 10-minute fix so no concern there. The axle as a whole may want to rotate forward (?) but because toe and camber are near zero anyway (per my understanding) that won’t change anything with the new height.

Adjusting the drag link is technically part of an alignment so yes it will “need an alignment” but I don’t know that there will actually be that much to do. Am I correct with this thinking? I’m trying to do this all myself in an afternoon so if it does need a proper alignment I may reconsider.

 

[nlambert182]

I had to install a bigger/longer track bar when my last 2500 truck was leveled. I also had to install new tie rod ends (not for the lift), so my truck needed an alignment anyhow but it seems like your thought process is close. The axle shouldn't be any higher off the ground than it was so I wouldn't think much would change.

 

[rzr6-4]

I had to install a bigger/longer track bar when my last 2500 truck was leveled. I also had to install new tie rod ends (not for the lift), so my truck needed an alignment anyhow but it seems like your thought process is close. The axle shouldn't be any higher off the ground than it was so I wouldn't think much would change.

Dang, didn't think about that but you are right on the track bar.

 

[nlambert182]

Yea my truck looked odd for the longest time (dealer leveled it) and I couldn't figure out why the axle looked like it was pushed to the driverside until I realized the track bar was too short. I installed a Carli adjustable track bar and recentered the axle.

 

[mtnrider]

Toe should not change with the level, Camber is not adjustable on the solid axle HD trucks so nothing to do there. Your caster will change so that will need to be aligned, as well as centering your axle with an adjustable track bar. And adjsut your draglink to center the steering wheel.
I would highly recommend you get it aligned to the "Thuren" specs, you can google it and it should come up.

.

 

[Dean2]

Toe should not change with the level, Camber is not adjustable on the solid axle HD trucks so nothing to do there. Your caster will change so that will need to be aligned, as well as centering your axle with an adjustable draglink.
I would highly recommend you get it aligned to the "Thuren" specs, you can google it and it should come up.

.

^^^^^^^
This.

 

[Scottly]

I've leveled my '18 and my '21. This is what I learned: No toe adjustment needed, but you need to adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel. If not, it'll throw a code light. Raising the front height forces the track bar to pull the axel to one side...You have two options: Order an adjustable track bar, or order a Power Wagon track bar. The PW bar is cheaper and not adjustable, but based on the PW factory height difference, it will get the axel close. Next is the alignment...MANY of the alignment techs follow the instructions of the new machines and don't truly understand what they are doing. Your best bet is this: Tell them so set total toe to ZERO. Solid axles don't need toe to stabilize the steering like indie front ends do. Then tell them to crank as much caster into it as they can. It probably will be near the low end of factory specs and that is as close as it will get. It'll be enough to keep it going straight down the road. BE CAREFUL that they move BOTH ADJUSTERS in the same direction. They can get a caster reading on the machine within specs if THEY CROSS CASTER it, which means one is rotated all the way forward and the other all the way back...WRONG. The truck will lean to one side. It's common with some of these assclowns to make that mistake.

 

[rzr6-4]

I've leveled my '18 and my '21. This is what I learned: No toe adjustment needed, but you need to adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel. If not, it'll throw a code light. Raising the front height forces the track bar to pull the axel to one side...You have two options: Order an adjustable track bar, or order a Power Wagon track bar. The PW bar is cheaper and not adjustable, but based on the PW factory height difference, it will get the axel close. Next is the alignment...MANY of the alignment techs follow the instructions of the new machines and don't truly understand what they are doing. Your best bet is this: Tell them so set total toe to ZERO. Solid axles don't need toe to stabilize the steering like indie front ends do. Then tell them to crank as much caster into it as they can. It probably will be near the low end of factory specs and that is as close as it will get. It'll be enough to keep it going straight down the road. BE CAREFUL that they move BOTH ADJUSTERS in the same direction. They can get a caster reading on the machine within specs if THEY CROSS CASTER it, which means one is rotated all the way forward and the other all the way back...WRONG. The truck will lean to one side. It's common with some of these assclowns to make that mistake.

Been looking at adjustable track bars are shockingly expensive. $500 for a bar with one bend and some fittings on the end? I looked at your power wagon track bar idea but even those fixed ones look like they cost just as much as a normal adjustable one. Also, mine being a 3rd gen I'm not 100% sure a '14 wagon part would be the correct length anyway.

Track bar is really putting a damper on this. Looks like it would cost more than the shocks and springs combined.

 

[nlambert182]

There are some cheaper options out there. I've seen them for $300, but can't tell you if they're any good or not.

American Trucks lists one for your truck for $250.

 

[Dean2]

This is not what you asked, but my 2021 2500 is already really quite high as is my 1996 2500. The 2021 has the off road package and left stock, and the 1996 is still stock height, but with Bilstein shocks, which REALLY improved the ride. The 2021 would accommodate 35" tires for sure, probably 37". I see no advantage to further lifting or levelling a 2500, especially given the high cost.

Never been a fan of messing with the geometry of a vehicle that get used mainly on roads. If it is 80% off road, different decision, but not what I would pick a 2500 for anyhow, I would be using a Jeep of some sort..

 

[rzr6-4]

There are some cheaper options out there. I've seen them for $300, but can't tell you if they're any good or not.

American Trucks lists one for your truck for $250.

I will have to take a look at that.

This is not what you asked, but my 2021 2500 is already really quite high as is my 1996 2500. The 2021 has the off road package and left stock, and the 1996 is still stock height, but with Bilstein shocks, which REALLY improved the ride. The 2021 would accommodate 35" tires for sure, probably 37". I see no advantage to further lifting or levelling a 2500, especially given the high cost.

Never been a fan of messing with the geometry of a vehicle that get used mainly on roads. If it is 80% off road, different decision, but not what I would pick a 2500 for anyhow, I would be using a Jeep of some sort..

Do I need it? Absolutely not, but with my 35s the gap between the tire and fender just seems too small. After seeing some with levels I definitely like the look way more. It does see off road occasionally but my sierra is the new project vehicle. I will like the extra travel, but this is more so for aesthetics.

 

[nlambert182]

My 2012 rubbed with 35" mud tires on it. They had to install the leveling kit and still trim a little of the inner fender, but they were also using an aftermarket wheel with slightly more offset.

It actually drove and handled quite well with no issues for a long time but eventually it did end up getting the front wheel bearings and the tie rod ends. I ended up taking it all the way back to stock. Never had another issue after. I refuse to touch the suspension on my trucks after that. 2 $400 hub assemblies, two tie rod ends, a track bar, and new wheels/tires got expensive quick. It also eventually introduced some play in my steering box and I had to install a stabilizer bar to take it back out. Probably a moot point if you're not adding big wheels/tires. Leveling on its own probably won't hurt anything but your wallet.

One of the reasons I chose this 2500 over the 3500 SRW with the Aisin was because the 3500 was leveled with 35" mud tires on it. It gave me flashbacks on the test drive.

 

[Dean2]

My 2012 rubbed with 35" mud tires on it. They had to install the leveling kit and still trim a little of the inner fender, but they were also using an aftermarket wheel with slightly more offset.

It actually drove and handled quite well with no issues for a long time but eventually it did end up getting the front wheel bearings and the tie rod ends. I ended up taking it all the way back to stock. Never had another issue after. I refuse to touch the suspension on my trucks after that. 2 $400 hub assemblies, two tie rod ends, a track bar, and new wheels/tires got expensive quick. It also eventually introduced some play in my steering box and I had to install a stabilizer bar to take it back out. Probably a moot point if you're not adding big wheels/tires. Leveling on its own probably won't hurt anything but your wallet.

One of the reasons I chose this 2500 over the 3500 SRW with the Aisin was because it was leveled with 35" mud tires on it. It gave me flashbacks on the test drive.

I agree. My 1996, despite being used predominantly not on pavement, didn't need shocks until 80,000 miles and didn't need any front end work until 150,000 miles. Anyone I know that lifted them, was doing bearings, shocks, knuckles and front ends every 60,000 miles or so, but they seemed to be okay with paying the extra price to play.

 

[White six four]

When I got my truck it had 2.5" spring spacers on the front with the stock track bar. I'm sure a lot of people level theirs without ever changing out the track bar. If I remember correctly a power wagons track bar is 1/8th of an inch longer then a regular 2500.

Not saying it's the right thing to do but you could always level it and get a track bar down the road. If you do go this route just remember you will have to readjust your drag link again after you center your front axle with the track bar.

 

[nlambert182]

It's completely possible to level it without doing the track bar immediately. It took me a year to figure out why my driverside wheel seemed to stick out further than the passenger. But once I knew, I knew and it drove me nuts. I didn't notice any change in driveability.

 

[White six four]

But once I knew, I knew and it drove me nuts.

I hate when that happens lol. A guy can walk past something a million times but once you see it....you always see it.

 

[rzr6-4]

It's completely possible to level it without doing the track bar immediately. It took me a year to figure out why my driverside wheel seemed to stick out further than the passenger. But once I knew, I knew and it drove me nuts. I didn't notice any change in driveability.

I hate when that happens lol. A guy can walk past something a million times but once you see it....you always see it.

How far off was it?

 

[nlambert182]

I didn't measure but it was at least a good 1.5" off. Completely noticeable once I realized it was there. I always knew something looked just a little off, but it took me parking it in front of the garage at the right angle and coming outside at the right time for the aha moment.

 

[White six four]

Mine was 4 years ago so I don't remember exactly but I want to say it was around an inch maybe a little more.

 

[man n black]

Toe should not change with the level, Camber is not adjustable on the solid axle HD trucks so nothing to do there. Your caster will change so that will need to be aligned, as well as centering your axle with an adjustable track bar. And adjsut your draglink to center the steering wheel.
I would highly recommend you get it aligned to the "Thuren" specs, you can google it and it should come up.

.

Sage advice here.....particularly the Thuren alignement spec