AMS oil signature fails my most basic test

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Mega-Hemi

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302. I made the mistake of changing the oil and putting a detergent oil into it when I bought it. Kept plugging up the oil pump. Ended up having to bake the block to clean it and bored it .030 over during the rebuild. Ran great after that.
 

RAM_Designs

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IMO just do 5k OCI's with any reputable full synthetic, super easy to remember. Change air filters every 10k, too easy to not remember.
 

GsRAM

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300/6 or 302? I've seen some 300/6's that tolerated some amazing neglect and racked up some amazing mileage.


Ford 300 I6 is a heck of a good engine. I always liked them.
 

stevehh

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I don't think all the oil runs through the oil filter from the oil pump every time. Therefore, when the filter is dirty less runs through it and maybe quits running through it when it's clogged up, with no indication it's not working anymore(?) That's why Amsoil says to change the filter more frequently than the oil itself. I've run Amsoil for over 30,000 miles and had it analyzed and it was still good - I try to change the filter every 10,000 or 15,000 though. I don't think Royal Purple lasts as long, although it may be a little more slippery.

I've heard something to the effect diesels don't run hot enough to burn off volatiles though so I just use cheap fake synthetics in my 6.7 - still better than regular dino oil.

I think it's definitely a good idea to sometimes get your oil analyzed when you change it though, through Blackstone or someone else. Until we recently moved there was an oil analysis place right down the street that I used. I had an old Landcruiser that I was thinking of putting a short block in, but I had the oil analyzed and it was still okay even though it looked black so I couldn't justify itlll
 

crash68

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I've heard something to the effect diesels don't run hot enough to burn off volatiles though so I just use cheap fake synthetics in my 6.7 - still better than regular dino oil.
They don't get hot enough if you only use them for short grocery store trips. With the amount of oil the diesel engines hold, it takes longer to get the temp high enough.
A lot of diesel engines spray oil on the underside of the pistons for cooling, if you work them they will get hot.
 

gixxer

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Filters won’t remove all particulate either. Hence, you want the best filter you can get. If the particulate is smaller than what the filter can capture it will remain in suspension.
 

U&A

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They don't get hot enough if you only use them for short grocery store trips. With the amount of oil the diesel engines hold, it takes longer to get the temp high enough.
A lot of diesel engines spray oil on the underside of the pistons for cooling, if you work them they will get hot.

Also,

A lot of new engines spray oil on the bottom of the piston. Including the 6.4 HEMI and I assume the 5.7.


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R.L.K.

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So if you compare another brand of oil in the same vehicle and it is noticeably cleaner your telling me both oils are functioning the same
No Sir , if one oil brand isn't getting noticably darker after 1500-2000 miles then it's not doing a good job at cleaning normal by-products of a combustion engine and more likely to cause sludge over time .
Imo any good oil should be black as coal after 4k ish miles [emoji106]

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RAM_Designs

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^^^^what he said. Dirty oil means the dirt and grime is being held away from being caked onto your engine parts. My oils have always been black as night when I change them, and I’ve never had any kind of internal engine failure or replacement in any way/shape/form.
 

JimGregory

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I always liked motors that kept my oil clean for a long time. My old 4 liter ranger oil stayed clean a long time and never used any between changes. I have never had sludge.
My diesels always get black. Nature of the beast.
 

50BMG

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IMO just do 5k OCI's with any reputable full synthetic, super easy to remember. Change air filters every 10k, too easy to not remember.

Have to disagree on that one... Most good oils will outlast the filters, why not change both at the same time? Every 3000 miles for conventional dinosaur-poop oils, every 5000 miles for synthetics (as somebody else mentioned here, you could probably change just the filter and not the oil for @2 5000 mile cycles with a good/full synthetic oil).
On the filters, one other thing to consider with running them too long and plugging them up even partially is the built in bypass valve that almost all oil filters have. When the filter medium gets plugged up, the spring on the bypass mechanism will not withstand the higher pressures in the filter can and the bypass will open (even partially at first). When this even partial opening happens, you are NOT FILTERING AT ALL, most of the oil running through your engine (oil will flow on the path of least resistance).
As the filter gets dirtier, the more of your oil gets bypassed and goes completely un-filtered. This is why I only use no-bypass filters in my go fast car and if I had better oil pressure gauges in my Ram, I'd probably only run no-bypass filters in that vehicle too.
For a no bypass type, the oil pressure gauge will tell you when/if you ever have a problem because the normal pressures the engine operates at will begin to drop. Even with lower pressures, the car/truck can still be driven until you get to a place where the oil/filter can be checked properly (depending on the load you are putting on your engine of course) and as long as oil is flowing, under normal driving, you are not likely to cause engine damage. But, at least there is no, already heavily contaminated oil that is bypassing the filter element either, so nothing that could cause even more/possibly SEVERE internal damage is circulating through your engine at that point either.
A no-bypass filter and good quality oil is really the safest way to go to protect your engine, but you need to pay some regular attention to your oil pressure gauge as you drive, which is something all of us should really be doing anyway.
 

JaredHerzog

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Gauging the quality and amount of life left in oil on a diesel visually is about as accurate as gauging cetane at the pump by tossing the first 12 ounces on the ground then rubbing it between your fingers. There is no way these trucks ruin the oil in 20 miles because that is how long it takes my oil to get coal black after a change on my 15 and past 14.
Even my 05 with its in cylinder egr got black on a key cycle or two. My 02 and 03 on the other hand took thousands of miles to even change to a dark golden color. Retaining exhaust in cylinder or with egr is what does it but the oil is designed to hold it in suspension. Most of the particles you see were not captured in the filter because they are too small to cause much wear. They have to walk a fine line between filtering enough harmful particles and ensuring the truck has ample flow without cracking the bypass. If the filter media was too fine it would filter great until it plugged at which time we are getting unfiltered oil with a bypass that is not going to close again. I have even ran a amsoil bypass kit on my last truck and the oil was still black. It was just black with less harmful particles which likely caused no abrasive wear.
One of the reasons we have a dummy oil pressure gauge is everyone would flip if they knew the pressures these trucks see on cold oil. I could even see the oil bypass valve opening in the filter as this cold oil tries to pass through. But, as the oil warms the pressures drop and the oil is being filtered again. For this reason i would shy away from a filter that lacks a bypass valve. There are times where it would be best to bypass rather than tear through the media. I am not aware of a filter that is meant for our engines and lacks a bypass. Sure you could find one to fit but i would be willing to bet it was for a different application.
 
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