Any blown 5.7's on here?

[Tach_tech]

Wasn’t pretty.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Wasn’t pretty.

Was this from ring land, high compression, or too much boost?

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Honestly I’m not sure, someone might but unless you’re planning on running pretty high boost you don’t need to go that low.

Thanks for your input. When I do rebuild and stroke, it will be with forged internals, and as much boost as i can run on pump gas. Like I was saying about my mustang, i ran 20# on 93 octane. Boost was so high it was blowing my spark out. At the time, nobody made a high voltage coil on olug kit. I wish kenne bell blowers fit our 5.7's.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

It all depends on how you setup the engine and the engine design. The dual spark plug setup in the hemi does allow the ignition event to occur later in the compression cycle because the flame propagation and combustion event are a lot shorter compared to other engine designs; this can allow a lower octane fuel to be used compared to a different engine design with a similar CR. I’m running 17-18psi with my 9.6CR on 94 e10 in my truck; I’d be running e85 if it was available in Canada.


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What are your rear wheel numbers at 17-18, and what type of blower?

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Check this outhttps://www.google.com/amp/www.hotrod.com/articles/we-add-a-kenne-bell-supercharger-to-a-392-dodge-challenger-and-pick-up-more-than-270-hp/amp/

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Would it be easier to swap in a forged 6.4 or stroke the 5.7? Im assuming the 6.4 block and heads are different than the 5.7

 

[Tach_tech]

Was this from ring land, high compression, or too much boost?

Hard to say due to the amount of carnage, it happened at high rpm so it scattered the evidence pretty well. It wasn’t to much boost, it was running 7psi. My best guess is either rod failure or a ring gap closed. Didn’t appear to be detonation either.

 

[Tach_tech]

Would it be easier to swap in a forged 6.4 or stroke the 5.7? Im assuming the 6.4 block and heads are different than the 5.7

Arrington make a forged 392 short block. That’s honestly the way I’d go and I would have but it would have been more expensive since I didn’t have a useable core to send them.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Arrington make a forged 392 short block. That’s honestly the way I’d go and I would have but it would have been more expensive since I didn’t have a useable core to send them.

Again thanks for your input. What i need to know is if the 6.4 and 5.7 are the same block. I dont want to stroke the 5.7-6.4 and have thin walls and worry about problems under a lot of boost. I have googled it, but not found any answers. If its the same block, I will have my engine builder stroke my 5.7 to 6.4 with a forged internal kit from arlington.

 

[Tach_tech]

For the short block I’m referring to Arrington uses 5.7 blocks then strokes them to a 392.

https://www.shophemi.com/p-1853-arrington-392-short-block-from-57l.aspx

 

[charonblk07]

What are your rear wheel numbers at 17-18, and what type of blower?

Estimates are 650-700 but I don’t have solid numbers because every time I have tried to get more tuning I kept breaking hard parts. I’m running a F-1A but when I do the new engine I’ll send it in for the F-1A-94 upgrade.


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[charonblk07]

Again thanks for your input. What i need to know is if the 6.4 and 5.7 are the same block. I dont want to stroke the 5.7-6.4 and have thin walls and worry about problems under a lot of boost. I have googled it, but not found any answers. If its the same block, I will have my engine builder stroke my 5.7 to 6.4 with a forged internal kit from arlington.

The external dimensions are the same between the 5.7L and 6.4L short blocks. The heads are different and aren’t interchangeable, at least not direct bolt-on; iirc it’s a valve clearance issue with the cylinder bore. The 5.7L heads bolt to either block.

If you can find a 6.4L truck block, it’s stamped BHG and is a bored 6.2L block and has lots of meat in the web. That’s the best option but a 392 stroker 5.7L still has the same bore and web thickness and will handle 17-18psi. That’s the biggest stroke you should go if boosted though, and it’s a tried and tested combination.


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[Wild one]

Would it be easier to swap in a forged 6.4 or stroke the 5.7? Im assuming the 6.4 block and heads are different than the 5.7

Matt Fikac/Moes is running a stroked Hellcat block with the big gas 6.4 truck heads with a whipple blower on his 422,and Jay Green is using the 6.4 truck block in his 426 build,both trucks are running,but neither truck has made a 1/4 mile pass,which leads me to believe tuning the big cube versions in a late model Ram is a bit time consuming,other wise i'm sure one of them would of made a pass by now.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

For the short block I’m referring to Arrington uses 5.7 blocks then strokes them to a 392.

https://www.shophemi.com/p-1853-arrington-392-short-block-from-57l.aspx

Not a bad price if it includes shipping. Wonder if it includes their boosted cam?

 

[Tach_tech]

Now that it's bulletproof are we gonna see your truck at either the Hat or Castrol this year Dan,lots of guys are interested,lol
Rick

Maybe eventually, I’m just happy it’s back together. Not a cheap endeavour that’s for sure. Might turn it up to 10lbs in the summer. Right now just waiting for some warmer weather to do some tuning and see what the lower CR has changed.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

The external dimensions are the same between the 5.7L and 6.4L short blocks. The heads are different and aren’t interchangeable, at least not direct bolt-on; iirc it’s a valve clearance issue with the cylinder bore. The 5.7L heads bolt to either block.

If you can find a 6.4L truck block, it’s stamped BHG and is a bored 6.2L block and has lots of meat in the web. That’s the best option but a 392 stroker 5.7L still has the same bore and web thickness and will handle 17-18psi. That’s the biggest stroke you should go if boosted though, and it’s a tried and tested combination.


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Thanks MR. Wizard for answering my question i could not find an answer too!!
Guess i will forget a 6.4 block, and just buy a forged stroker kit and install in my 5.7 block. Thanks for your wisdom

 

[chrisp2493]

Just as a price guide, it’s not too much cheaper to build the motor yourself. I spent about $4500 just for the forged rotating assembly, an extra block, and all the necessary machine work. In the end it would have been close to buying a prebuilt stroker short block. Myself personally, I wanted the experience of building it myself. It was fairly difficult building, you gotta know how to check ALOT of specs and stuff. So going the prebuilt route is a good idea

 

[mondo]

Thanks MR. Wizard for answering my question i could not find an answer too!!
Guess i will forget a 6.4 block, and just buy a forged stroker kit and install in my 5.7 block. Thanks for your wisdom

I see you are in Butler. BFNY Performance isnt that far in Cleveland and OST dyno is in Portersville pa. Both kinda close to you, id give them a call. They know thier ****. There are many others but not as close to you.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I see you are in Butler. BFNY Performance isnt that far in Cleveland and OST dyno is in Portersville pa. Both kinda close to you, id give them a call. They know thier ****. There are many others but not as close to you.

Thank you sir. Portersville is only a half hour drive. I will check them out

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Just as a price guide, it’s not too much cheaper to build the motor yourself. I spent about $4500 just for the forged rotating assembly, an extra block, and all the necessary machine work. In the end it would have been close to buying a prebuilt stroker short block. Myself personally, I wanted the experience of building it myself. It was fairly difficult building, you gotta know how to check ALOT of specs and stuff. So going the prebuilt route is a good idea

I totally agree with you. I hydrolocked my 3.8 motor in my jeep. Had the local jeep dealer install a new motor. Cost me $6,000. Short block is still cheaper than what i paid for the 3.8!!!