Anyone using 5w30???

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TheRudeDog

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I was toying with the idea of trying Red Line 5w-30 (I'm using their gear oil with a Mag-Hytec differential cover), however after seeing where they placed on the film strength test posted elsewhere on this thread. I am sticking with Amsoil SS (and no Hemi tick) and my RP 20-820 filter.
 

Hemi395

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I was toying with the idea of trying Red Line 5w-30 (I'm using their gear oil with a Mag-Hytec differential cover), however after seeing where they placed on the film strength test posted elsewhere on this thread. I am sticking with Amsoil SS (and no Hemi tick) and my RP 20-820 filter.

I don't remember seeing that but it sounds interesting. Was it towards the beginning of the thread?
 

moregrip

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For some reason both Red Line and Amsoil are adamant against mixing weights

hmm, never heard that, but it's not like I'm reading about oil everyday either. Mind posting a link or two so I can educate myself
 

TheRudeDog

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hmm, never heard that, but it's not like I'm reading about oil everyday either. Mind posting a link or two so I can educate myself

That was based on me calling both of their technicians (I wanted a second opinion) from Red Line and Amsoil
 
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charonblk07

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I was toying with the idea of trying Red Line 5w-30 (I'm using their gear oil with a Mag-Hytec differential cover), however after seeing where they placed on the film strength test posted elsewhere on this thread. I am sticking with Amsoil SS (and no Hemi tick) and my RP 20-820 filter.

If it makes you feel better, I run the Redline 5w-30 and my engine is pushed a lot harder than most people's. When I dropped the oil pan last month there were zero signs of wear to the mains when I pulled the main caps and journals to inspect them (I did this because after I installed my remote oil filter a year ago I done goofed up and drove around the block with zero oil pressure and since I had to replace the windage tray it was a good time to have a look). Since I'm pushing 17psi and rev to 6500rpm normally there is a lot of pressure put on the main bearing and the very high moly of the Redline is a life saver for wear protection and the oil film strength is more than sufficient for protection even with oil temps that can reach the 230s during hard and long WOT pulls. My top end is also in great shape and zero wear on the rocker arm pads even after putting 40,000kms of boosted driving.


Edit: Going back and looking at the test results, the Redline 5w30 may have placed 26th, but it had a breakthrough pressure of 91,000psi which is still outstanding fluid protection and the additive package is proven to work effectively in the Gen III hemi. This main factors then become what's cheaper where you are and how easy is it to obtain.
 
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moregrip

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If it makes you feel better, I run the Redline 5w-30 and my engine is pushed a lot harder than most people's. When I dropped the oil pan last month there were zero signs of wear to the mains when I pulled the main caps and journals to inspect them (I did this because after I installed my remote oil filter a year ago I done goofed up and drove around the block with zero oil pressure and since I had to replace the windage tray it was a good time to have a look). Since I'm pushing 17psi and rev to 6500rpm normally there is a lot of pressure put on the main bearing and the very high moly of the Redline is a life saver for wear protection and the oil film strength is more than sufficient for protection even with oil temps that can reach the 230s during hard and long WOT pulls. My top end is also in great shape and zero wear on the rocker arm pads even after putting 40,000kms of boosted driving.


Edit: Going back and looking at the test results, the Redline 5w30 may have placed 26th, but it had a breakthrough pressure of 91,000psi which is still outstanding fluid protection and the additive package is proven to work effectively in the Gen III hemi. This main factors then become what's cheaper where you are and how easy is it to obtain.

good info, where are these test results located? thanks man!
 

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Burla

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Any oil with Moly takes time and pressure to plate thus being a part of film strength, and thus most testing of heating an oil to 230 and running a test on it is irrelevant. Also, puts plating where it is needed most, points of contact. I had my tick eliminated with a 20 weight, and I'm sure my tick would have been there with many thirty weights. Short term testing also fails to include the value of the detergency of an oil. But they are always fun to talk about?
 

SyN

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^^^ very well spoken buddy!
I for one do not and never have taken interest in oil testing that were not conducted in an actual engine in reality situations not in a Test Lab(dyno). I will pay attention to the dyno testing some what. There is no way a Dyno can subjectively reenact thousands of cold morning starts / stop and go driving anything that happens in the real world. The Dyno would only reveal results from wide-open throttle or constant RPMs.

Or for that matter 1 Armed Bandit Machine. They are awesome Pot Stirring Subjects though. Notice it's always New oil being tested never oil that's been run for 2000 4000 5000 7000 miles or Oils that have been contaminated with carbon deposits or fuel dilution as well.

There are a few actual very grueling taxicab testing that has been done in the past that is very impressive with a few synthetic motor oil's. I pay attention to testing like that.

As Burla has stated above Many-Many-Many owners never give a very good oil a chance to actually in bed itself into the high-pressure moving parts. They are so impatient to hear results and feel results instantly. At least give an Oil a Full OCI cycle to achieve the results You are looking for.

Funny thing is I am 10 times more **** about my air filter (filtering capabilities) and air filter housing being clean then I am my oil brand/viscosity & oil filter. It all begins up top!
 
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Burla

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Part of learning about the nature of oil is understanding there will never never never be adequate testing to have real definitive answers on long term use. Even common sense will let you down. Often things like the a proper functioning engine or even a proper filter are more important then your oil choice. Everything else is just bits and pieces.
 

R.L.K.

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As SyN said above ... " It all begins up top! "

All the more reason to run an Occ.
 

craigsez

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block heat...

I've heard of guys throwing codes with 10w-30 or 0w-40 but never on 5w-30. The differences in viscosities are so small how would the computer know? I mean, what happens up north when it's -10 out and that 5w-20 is like molasses?

We go out and pee on the block....
 
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