Anyone with rear coil upgrade experience?

[reek]

The rear springs on my 1500 seem a bit weak. Admittedly I do overload the poor thing on occasion but even when I try to keep the bed load under 1000 lbs, it still sags so badly.

I'm getting ready to order some Tuftruck TTC-1223V rear coils. Supposed to "increase" load capacity by 35%. They seem to be the mid level coils with the others options claiming 25% and 50% increased capacity.

2009-2014 Dodge Ram 1500 Rear 2wd 4wd - Rear Coil Spring Kit (35% Capacity Increase w/ Variable Rate) [TTC-1223V] | $243.95 | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts

Did a search on these and there's no real info on the forum. I didn't want to go air bags again. Didn't like them on my Tundra. If anyone has any opinions or experience with these, I'd appreciate it.

 

[14hemiexpress]

there are people on this forum that have them and im sure they will chime in.
the one thing I would like to point out is there is no aftermarket parts that will legally increase your payload. I don't want to be Mr. negative but I feel its something everyone doing something to "increase" there payload should know. with that being said the springs should be a good way to help the sag in your truck, and lastly the only thing I have herd is the 50% coils actually make the back of the truck sit high im not sure how much though.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

^^ about 3-4" lift but mine has settled a bit now.

The above comment is correct. These will not *legally* increase payload. These are designed to aid in a continuously loaded truck. I have the 50% coils out back for when we tug our camper- and I run the truck right to axle rating out back- so fairly overloaded. It is actually difficult to get enough sag to get the WDH to move the correct weight now. They do increase payload capacity from a mechanical standpoint from time to time by keeping the truck sitting properly and eliminating to bulldog. I need the extra handling capacity 3 or 4 times per year- that's it. If you are overloading more frequently- you really need a bigger truck.

Now that I have that out of the way, the install was quick and easy. Watch your brake and ABS lines, don't let your diff fall too far. Make sure the rubber crown is situated the same way on the top (evident by the imprint) and watch for that sneaky hidden bolt behind the fender liner up front. They are a tad stiffer. You may want to dump your OEM shocks. Best money I have spent on a mod

Side note: I am not condoning overloading. I am not happy about the situation I am in but I make it work for now. We take two vehicles camping until our oldest two are off on their own in a couple years- then we are in a way better position for weight- almost 500lbs off the truck axles.

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[cableguy_hd]

cant wait til they release the new springs in January. 50% increase and no added lift in the rear. My Christmas money burning a hole in my pocket right now

 

[reek]

yeah, I know legally, there's no real "increase" in payload. I just need it to stop sagging so much. Handling is so sketchy when I do. And mostly only overload a few times a year so don't want to deal with a 2500/3500 rough ride for that. That's why I'm not going with their 50% "increase" springs.

I'm going to pull the trigger on these. I'd like stock ride most of the year with some sag help the few times I do abuse the poor truck.

Thanks for the in put so far.

 

[14hemiexpress]

yeah, I know legally, there's no real "increase" in payload. I just need it to stop sagging so much. Handling is so sketchy when I do. And mostly only overload a few times a year so don't want to deal with a 2500/3500 rough ride for that. That's why I'm not going with their 50% "increase" springs.

I'm going to pull the trigger on these. I'd like stock ride most of the year with some sag help the few times I do abuse the poor truck.

Thanks for the in put so far.

Then handling with heavy loads is also contributed to the soft sidewalls of the crappy Goodyear wranglers if that's what you have. You might consider some tires that have a little stiffer sidewall. Not necessarily E rated tires as the factory wheels aren't ment for 80psi but I'm sure there is a bunch of research on this forum about better tires. Once I wear mine out i would like to go to a different wheel and get E rated tires just because.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

Then handling with heavy loads is also contributed to the soft sidewalls of the crappy Goodyear wranglers if that's what you have. You might consider some tires that have a little stiffer sidewall. Not necessarily E rated tires as the factory wheels aren't ment for 80psi but I'm sure there is a bunch of research on this forum about better tires. Once I wear mine out i would like to go to a different wheel and get E rated tires just because.

If you find a decent set of LT wheels that actually LOOK good, post it up. I am on the same hunt right now and so far have come up empty handed.

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[reek]

yes, thats my next move

Then handling with heavy loads is also contributed to the soft sidewalls of the crappy Goodyear wranglers if that's what you have. You might consider some tires that have a little stiffer sidewall. Not necessarily E rated tires as the factory wheels aren't ment for 80psi but I'm sure there is a bunch of research on this forum about better tires. Once I wear mine out i would like to go to a different wheel and get E rated tires just because.

as soon as my factory tires wear out, that was my plan. I suppose with stiffer springs and better tires, things should improve. Although, I just saw a running 1950 chevy 3800 flat bed for the price of a set of tires that seems interesting. I just gotta figure out how to hide it from the wife.....

 

[smurfs_of_war]

Is it possible to use the deck to haul a bunch of pretty things like bedding plants or something home as a decoy? That usually works for me when I do something "dumb" in her eyes.

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[reek]

I might give that a try.

I have used diversion technique in the past. I really wanted the Corsa cat backs for my Ram. Soooooo, I ordered it, and said, "say honey, you know that Snugtop tonneau you wanted for your Tacoma..." Most expensive exhaust I've ever bought, but got it without the "you ********" look from the wife.

 

[joel29m]

I had the 2 inch rear drop coil springs and shocks from tuff truck. They were pretty good but I just knew I could get something cheaper than the 400.00 I paid for the springs and shocks so I returned them. I went with 3 inch coil springs for a leveled look.

 

[cc rider]

Im confused. If too much payload=sag (strictly rear end, for ex: too much trailer tongue weight), and new springs =less sag, doesnt that increase your payload? I know what payload is and that it includes everything in the cab including people (carrying capacity).

Also, I dont understand why people want to level their truck? i think they look good with the rear higher. Which springs are the ones that DONT level so i can get those if I decide to. Smurfs: do you have a pic before and after of the spring difference?

^^ about 3-4" lift but mine has settled a bit now.

The above comment is correct. These will not *legally* increase payload. These are designed to aid in a continuously loaded truck. I have the 50% coils out back for when we tug our camper- and I run the truck right to axle rating out back- so fairly overloaded. It is actually difficult to get enough sag to get the WDH to move the correct weight now. They do increase payload capacity from a mechanical standpoint from time to time by keeping the truck sitting properly and eliminating to bulldog. I need the extra handling capacity 3 or 4 times per year- that's it. If you are overloading more frequently- you really need a bigger truck.

Now that I have that out of the way, the install was quick and easy. Watch your brake and ABS lines, don't let your diff fall too far. Make sure the rubber crown is situated the same way on the top (evident by the imprint) and watch for that sneaky hidden bolt behind the fender liner up front. They are a tad stiffer. You may want to dump your OEM shocks. Best money I have spent on a mod

Side note: I am not condoning overloading. I am not happy about the situation I am in but I make it work for now. We take two vehicles camping until our oldest two are off on their own in a couple years- then we are in a way better position for weight- almost 500lbs off the truck axles.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

 

[smurfs_of_war]

Im confused. If too much payload=sag (strictly rear end, for ex: too much trailer tongue weight), and new springs =less sag, doesnt that increase your payload? I know what payload is and that it includes everything in the cab including people (carrying capacity)

Not necessarily. The payload is directly related to the GVWR that your truck is rated for. So, GVWR- Curb Weight= Payload. The 1500s have a lousy 6800 or 6950 GVWR and they are quite heavy on the axle. Even taking the sag out of the rear end does not increase the numbers since it is still the same weight on the axles. From a purely mechanical standpoint- it does, but technically nothing will change that door sticker so if the highway patrol decided to take issue with the load you have on board and weighed you- that's a fight you're going to lose. With the upgraded suspension I have now, I am comfortable running right up to axle ratings. Before, my snowblower would sag the truck almost 2".

Here's a before pic and a couple after. Best I have for you. The TTC-1223 and TTC-1223V won't level the truck, however with the TTC-1223 you will want to put something up front otherwise it will look like a cat in heat. I used the Rancho loaded to return it to near stock rake. It's a minor lift and upgraded coils in the front.

 

[14hemiexpress]

That pretty much sums it up. The other thing is that there are other limiting factors. Because the suspension now can handle 2500lbs in the bed doesn't mean the axle,frame,driveline And brakes can handle the extra load. And who would determine what is safe at that point?

 

[cc rider]

Makes sense to me

 

[NYCruiser]

It increases the weight you can carry without sagging, but the payload is actually a rating assigned to the truck when its built.

 

[cc rider]

Yeah it's the sorry ass number on my sticker which is 1315. I put a quad in the bed the other day and noticed a big difference. That was only 400 pounds. It shouldn't really move as much as it did with that little weight.

It increases the weight you can carry without sagging, but the payload is actually a rating assigned to the truck when its built.

 

[cc rider]

I can't tell the difference in my old age. I think my eyes are going.

Not necessarily. The payload is directly related to the GVWR that your truck is rated for. So, GVWR- Curb Weight= Payload. The 1500s have a lousy 6800 or 6950 GVWR and they are quite heavy on the axle. Even taking the sag out of the rear end does not increase the numbers since it is still the same weight on the axles. From a purely mechanical standpoint- it does, but technically nothing will change that door sticker so if the highway patrol decided to take issue with the load you have on board and weighed you- that's a fight you're going to lose. With the upgraded suspension I have now, I am comfortable running right up to axle ratings. Before, my snowblower would sag the truck almost 2".

Here's a before pic and a couple after. Best I have for you. The TTC-1223 and TTC-1223V won't level the truck, however with the TTC-1223 you will want to put something up front otherwise it will look like a cat in heat. I used the Rancho loaded to return it to near stock rake. It's a minor lift and upgraded coils in the front.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

It's tough to tell because I installed the ATs after the before pic. Basically about 1.5" higher up front, 3" out back.

 

[cc rider]

Ok thanks.

It's tough to tell because I installed the ATs after the before pic. Basically about 1.5" higher up front, 3" out back.