Anyone with rear coil upgrade experience?

[reek]

The TTC-1223 and TTC-1223V won't level the truck, however with the TTC-1223 you will want to put something up front otherwise it will look like a cat in heat. I used the Rancho loaded to return it to near stock rake. It's a minor lift and upgraded coils in the front.

I went with the 1223V rears. should keep me more level on the few occasions I load up the truck. Arrives Friday.

I'm not sure how it compares but the payload for the Ram seems the lowest compared to GM, Ford, Toyota. But I don't know if every manufacturer has been made to stick to the new hauling/towing rating standards yet, so comparing those numbers might not be so useful yet.

Everytime I buy a new truck I always contemplate going to a 3/4 ton but never do. Out of curiosity any one know if the 2500 owners have excessive sag as well?

 

[BoldAdventure]

Payload is arbitrary. Please note, these trucks sag because the stock springs are linear coil rate springs. Vs say a variable spring rate. It's the coils that make them sag more than say a Ford or Chevy. But the coils also equal better ride/handling then both the other two trucks.

For easy reference a variable spring rate will compress 1 inch for 100lbs and 1.5 inch for 200lbs and 2 inches for 300lbs.

Linear compresses like this 1 inch 100lbs - 2 inches 200lbs - 3 inches 300lbs.

Pretty sure the Tough Truks springs are variable.

Your payload is based on the GVWR - All your options - gas - 150b driver.

You may notice that the axles, are rated at 3800lbs and that is 7600lbs total. I'm not sure what the GY tires are load rated at, but that's another factor.

I try not to exceed the rating of my axle + tires, and worry a bit less about the payload.

A scale will tell you what you need to know.

 

[BoldAdventure]

I'm not sure how it compares but the payload for the Ram seems the lowest compared to GM, Ford, Toyota. But I don't know if every manufacturer has been made to stick to the new hauling/towing rating standards yet, so comparing those numbers might not be so useful yet.

I did a big write up on this to argue with the asshats on the Airforums. I have noted thru looking at stickers that Ford claims the highest payload ratings across the board, but as I mentioned above, Ram has about 1000lbs of safety built into the axle ratings.

Go find a Ford Truck and look at the GVWR compared to it's Axle Ratings, you'll discover Ford's margin of safety is way way way way lower, closer to 200 ~ 300lbs of breathing room on their axles.

When Ram decided to go with the P rated tires and coils, they made some compromises to provide a truck that rides and handles better than the competition. I think the engineers knew that folks might overload the truck, and built the safety into the numbers they publish.

Just my 02 cents, do your own homework.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

I think the engineers knew that folks might overload the truck, and built the safety into the numbers they publish.

While I won't profess any experience in chassis engineering (I am a simple network engineer), I do know that engineers aren't stupid. For example, when I design a backend- I design it with the ability to handle the projected workload plus 150%. That is the simple truth of my industry- We (at least I) put a very large ceiling over what I will claim it is capable of because I have never once had a client not want to push more and do more with the resources available.
If I designed a truck and I was willing to put my ass on the line saying it can handle "x" lbs, you can bet your ass it will handle a hell of a lot more simply because I don't want to have to deal with the phone call later saying it blew up at "x" lbs+10.

Just my .02 and it may very well not be the case with Ram, however I would be very surprised if your pickup had any real abnormal wear running at combined axle rating (7800lbs) because I know damn well many people don't even pay attention or understand the ratings- and I am pretty certain a team of engineers has a fairly firm grasp of this reality. My interest in purchasing an airstream eventually has led me to a few of your posts over there. I think I know the one you are referencing.

*Disclaimer- I am not insinuating that overloading the **** out of your truck on a regular basis is a good idea. In fact- it's bad. If you need that capacity, you need a bigger truck.

 

[RamRick]

Hi guys, I am new here but I had a 1500 2010 with air bags in the back for almost 5 years and had no problems at all (air lift with a small compressor inside the truck). It work great and was pulling 4000 pnd every day. When ever I needed the truck for anything else, just lower the pressure in the bags and back to almost normal suspension (from 7-30 psi). It was only to level the truck. Just from my point of view. Easy to install and for 250$ you cant go wrong, (air bag + compressor).

 

[jlb]

I have a set of air bags as well, have had bags on all my trucks, and I really love them for the ability to add, or remove pressure. On this half ton though I will say the OEM shocks are waaay weak, I am sure to make ride quality nice, but with high pressure in the bags, and a big load in the bed you get a nice porpoise affect out of a hump in the road lol.

There is such a long list of mods I have for this stupid half ton to make it useful as a real truck (plus all the performance mods I want) it is tempting to just get rid of it, and buy a car. Since I have a 3500 CTD as well I have no reason to try, and play a middle ground, and lose on both ends.

 

[reek]

so I finally got around to installing the TTC-1223V rear springs. took less than an hour I'd say. The variable rate springs are a bit more firm compared to stock. More firm ride but still compliant. Nowhere near the rough ride I've had in the past with helper leafs. the rear height didn't change though so that's good. Usually when I climb in the bed, it feels springy and sags. given I'm a bit big boneded.... Now barely moves.

My original intentions with this thread was more for sag issues not so much intentions to overload the truck... too often. my biggest haul is usually half yard of gravel but that's rare and with my plans to get a moderate trailer, that won't happen much longer. Thanks all for the info though, very informative.

 

[Moparguy]

If I install the TTC-1223V springs will I still be able to use my E-2 weight distribution hitch that has the sway control built in? I pull a 32' camper and need the sway control but I also pull a car trailer and need the extra support for sag but don't need the weight distribution for the car trailer.


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[NYCruiser]

I would think so. WD hitch works of the mechanics of the tongue, not the springs. It will just have less work to do if the springs aren't sagging as much I would think.

 

[Moparguy]

The main thing that I am worried about is the more pressure on the distribution bars the better the sway control is. I don't know if the heavier springs will take pressure off the distribution bars or not.


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[NYCruiser]

Yes, less sag will take pressure off of the WD hitch bars and put it on the truck's suspension where it belongs (assuming the exact same WD hitch settings).

Less sag (firmer truck) will also help control sway on its own though. Its one of the reasons (among many) that higher payload trucks tow better.

You will need to re-adjust the WD hitch after you add the springs.

I've never heard of anyone deliberately installing softer springs to combat trailer sway.

 

[BoldAdventure]

I've been using a WD/Anti-Sway setup that I bought off the previous owner. I think I need to get another drop hitch that will lower it just about an inch and I should be 100% good. I spent about a half a day at my shop before our most recent trip over the holidays adjusting my hitch and WD setup to dial things in.

I'll be honest, I thought I had it good the first time around, but the second time the improvement was night and day.



This last trip we were packed at our heaviest for 14 days. Almost close to my truest 'Full Time' weight, and I'm just using Air bags and the WD hitch and I have almost zero sag plus mind you, I've got a 2inch front lift.

Cranking those links up is the big thing. Your bars should actually be under tension and bend, sending the weight to the front of the truck, getting the weight nicely distributed between the drive and steer axle. Too little on the steer axle is a bad thing.

You can see in my photo the front of my trailer is just a we bit to high. I'm thinking I need the hitch to come down 1 more inch.

So I'm personally undecided about the springs. Originally I was just going to buy them outright, now I may just wait and see.

For me, the only reason to upgrade to a 2500 will be weather or not life sucks driving around the west while towing.

I'm fine going up a mountain pass slow. And we know plenty who tow with 1500's out west. Question is, will it be unbearable all the time, or just every now and then. I'm fine with every now and then. To be determined.

 

[NYCruiser]

Your rig looks good. I think I would prefer to get there with springs rather than air bags to cover serious miles. Just wouldn't want to think about getting a leak in an air bag. LOL

 

[PippinAin'tEasy]

Beware that dropping the ball makes getting your Wd chains to the right link a bit tougher. Love my airlifts, swapping out coils as soon as the money bird poops on my tailgate. Will say also that B 'n A has done a hell of a job balancing that rig, front lift or not.[emoji106]

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[cc rider]

You got all the money and the sunshine I couldnt believe what those trailers go for. I went on their site to look. They are awesome inside! U got any pics or just tell me which model it is and ill look it up. I cant believe how light they are too. What are they made of aluminum, I assume?

I've been using a WD/Anti-Sway setup that I bought off the previous owner. I think I need to get another drop hitch that will lower it just about an inch and I should be 100% good. I spent about a half a day at my shop before our most recent trip over the holidays adjusting my hitch and WD setup to dial things in.

I'll be honest, I thought I had it good the first time around, but the second time the improvement was night and day.



This last trip we were packed at our heaviest for 14 days. Almost close to my truest 'Full Time' weight, and I'm just using Air bags and the WD hitch and I have almost zero sag plus mind you, I've got a 2inch front lift.

Cranking those links up is the big thing. Your bars should actually be under tension and bend, sending the weight to the front of the truck, getting the weight nicely distributed between the drive and steer axle. Too little on the steer axle is a bad thing.

You can see in my photo the front of my trailer is just a we bit to high. I'm thinking I need the hitch to come down 1 more inch.

So I'm personally undecided about the springs. Originally I was just going to buy them outright, now I may just wait and see.

For me, the only reason to upgrade to a 2500 will be weather or not life sucks driving around the west while towing.

I'm fine going up a mountain pass slow. And we know plenty who tow with 1500's out west. Question is, will it be unbearable all the time, or just every now and then. I'm fine with every now and then. To be determined.

 

[BoldAdventure]

You got all the money and the sunshine I couldnt believe what those trailers go for. I went on their site to look. They are awesome inside! U got any pics or just tell me which model it is and ill look it up. I cant believe how light they are too. What are they made of aluminum, I assume?

Well tip #1 is buy used and let some other slub take the depreciation hit, I'm not made out of that kind of money. Mine is a 2007 International Signature, Front Bedroom layout 27 ft. But not much has changed between the years in form of styling on the Signatures.

They're built like Airplanes using Monocoque construction, aluminum frames, aluminum shell, aluminum interior skins. The only thing wood is the floor. This is why so many of them are still on the road today opposed to Fiberglass units.

Obviously, I don't have slide outs and things. There are trade offs, I like the style and the instant community. We just went camping over the holiday and there where 4 other Airstreams in the park and each owner came over to talk to us. I'm pretty sure Jacyo owners don't seek each other out. It's like of like owning a car that has a following, like the Ram truck or Challenger.

If I was into having my living room look like it was decorated in the 1990's I might of bought a fiberglass unit. <<runs and hides>>

PS: You can have the sunshine, I'm over Florida.

 

[cc rider]

I hear u. But then in most cases you don't know what you're getting.and after seeing what some guys do with their trucks........

 

[dmullen]

cant wait til they release the new springs in January. 50% increase and no added lift in the rear. My Christmas money burning a hole in my pocket right now

Do you have any information on these new springs? I was going with the TTC-1223V until I found this thread and one other one talking about "new" springs from Tuf-Truck that offer the 50% but do not throw the truck's butt up in the air. I have written Tuf-Truck several times and I get nothing back.

I am not constantly loaded however and only tow a travel trailer maybe once a month so would the 1223V be the best option for me because of that?

 

[cableguy_hd]

I should get the coils delivered today. Not sure why they haven't responded unless they waiting for my feedback to see how these are going to perform. I sent an email inquiring about them once I read about them here by another member. All that was said was they would be released first of the year. I inquired New Year's Eve and got a response and actually spoke to someone and made the transaction. He told me I would be the first with these. I'll post pics in my thread about them when I get home and see if I have any paperwork info with them as well.

 

[dmullen]

Just got an email from Randy @ TufTruck and he said they should have some info on their site next week. He did say there are only a couple sets of these out there and they are waiting on feedback.