Are dealer oil changes required for warranty?

[Dean2]

Mobile1 is not approved for the Ram Hemi. I wish it were as it is a much better oil than the Pennzoil. I know you think otherwise but Chrysler denied warranty repair on my buddies 2020 Ram Hemi when it started the tick.

Oil for the 5.7 Hemi - Mobil1 IS APPROVED

Every oil thread on here says Mobile 1 does not meet the FIAT MS-6395 Certification for use in the 5.7. I decided to look on the Mobil site. According to that site they do actually meet this spec, so at least for the 5.7 you have Mobil 1 as an option. I could not find one of their oils that says...

www.ramforum.com

Your friend may want to take another run at that warranty claim. His dealer is full of it.

 

[Light299]

Yea, another dealer trying to push off a warranty repair from a known design flaw. *YAWN*

 

[Tulecreeper]

Mobile1 is not approved for the Ram Hemi. I wish it were as it is a much better oil than the Pennzoil. I know you think otherwise but Chrysler denied warranty repair on my buddies 2020 Ram Hemi when it started the tick.

Directly from my owners manual:

"We recommend using Mopar® API Certified SAE 0W-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer
Material Standard MS-A0921. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil can be used but must have the API Donut trademark."

"The API Donut trademark certifies
0W-40 and 5W-40 engine oil."

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w-40 has the API Donut on the back label. Looks exactly like this, except with 0W-40 for mine.

 

[GTyankee]

My dealership has changed a bunch of rules when it comes to the service department.

The Service Department will not do Oil Changes, you have to go another building, where the Express Lane is located.
The people in the Express lanes shirt only has the dealership name on it, not a single person has any certification.
They no longer allow a customer to bring their own fluids or filters, even if the packaging reads Mopar all over it.

My 7 Year Extended Warranty is up in January.
I already have 3 one gallon jugs of Mobile Oil in my garage. when my next oil change is due, i will go back there & let them know that i want my fluids used, if they refuse, i will raise a fuss.

 

[Riccochet]

In today's age of companies doing everything they can to NOT honor warranties I play it safe and let the dealer do all my maintenance while the vehicle is under warranty. This way it's all documented in their system, no questions.

And when we're talking about the potential for thousands of dollars in repairs being denied, what is spending a few more dollars to let the dealer do an oil change? Think about it.

Once the powertrain warranty is up I'll do my own maintenance.

As for the oil, they have to honor the warranty so long as the oil used is API certified. The MMA stipulates that if a manufacturer requires a specific part/fluid be used that can only be obtained from the manufacturer then the manufacturer has to provide it for free. So a dealer/manufacturer can't deny warranty by saying "oh, you used Mobil1, when your engine requires Mopar oil". That's no bueno and wouldn't hold up in court. Wouldn't even hold up in mediation.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Sorry if dumb question but in 40 years driving, first time I've owned a new vehicle under warranty...
First oil change coming due (I'm a 5K mile believer) on 2023 w/5.7 hemi.
Is it ok to take it to my regular mechanic for oil changes, or while under warranty do I have to take it to a Ram dealer? Any SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic, or if I don't use Mopar brand oil will that void warranty?

Moss Magnuson Warranty Act of 1975 explains it all! Google it!

 

[Sherman Bird]

Perhaps you should ask yourself if the service department is REALLY putting the correct oil in your vehicle. After all, they DO purchase oil in lots of multiple thousands gallons bulk. I worked at one dealer who shall remain un named that used the one oil in EVERYTHING.

The Moss Magnuson Warranty Act of 1975 specifically addressed this very issue. You thinking loyalty of paying them to change your oil will affect warranty claim outcome could be mis-placed loyalty.

 

[Sherman Bird]

In today's age of companies doing everything they can to NOT honor warranties I play it safe and let the dealer do all my maintenance while the vehicle is under warranty. This way it's all documented in their system, no questions.

And when we're talking about the potential for thousands of dollars in repairs being denied, what is spending a few more dollars to let the dealer do an oil change? Think about it.

Once the powertrain warranty is up I'll do my own maintenance.

As for the oil, they have to honor the warranty so long as the oil used is API certified. The MMA stipulates that if a manufacturer requires a specific part/fluid be used that can only be obtained from the manufacturer then the manufacturer has to provide it for free. So a dealer/manufacturer can't deny warranty by saying "oh, you used Mobil1, when your engine requires Mopar oil". That's no bueno and wouldn't hold up in court. Wouldn't even hold up in mediation.

KIA got it's buttocks in a sling with the FTC over their requirement that one use their factory oil filter in order to ensure one's warranty. As for court or mediation, the cost of these huge corporations to defend against claims is huge and prohibitive.

I was privvy to how much GM would have to pony up just to get ready for a court fight back in the day. It was cheaper to just fix the car for them, so I was told.

 

[jejb]

Perhaps you should ask yourself if the service department is REALLY putting the correct oil in your vehicle. After all, they DO purchase oil in lots of multiple thousands gallons bulk. I worked at one dealer who shall remain un named that used the one oil in EVERYTHING.

I have read countless times of owners catching the dealer pumping in whatever oil is in the barrel. I do my own maint partly to save money and partly to make sure it's done right. I save receipts and document the maintenance on the Ram Owners site.

 

[Riccochet]

KIA got it's buttocks in a sling with the FTC over their requirement that one use their factory oil filter in order to ensure one's warranty. As for court or mediation, the cost of these huge corporations to defend against claims is huge and prohibitive.

I was privvy to how much GM would have to pony up just to get ready for a court fight back in the day. It was cheaper to just fix the car for them, so I was told.

I had it out with Ford over a 2011 F150 Ecoboost. That truck was plagued with problems. They rebuilt the transmission 3 times in under a year, had the dreaded intercooler condensation issue, electrical gremlins. Eventually Ford sent me a letter stating that the issues I was having were due to the way I was driving it. I demanded a buy back or a lemon replacement. They refused. We went to mediation. Ford's smug attorneys stated there was nothing wrong with the truck, I was making it up. Until we went for a test drive. Just leaving the parking lot I barely got in to the throttle when the truck started shaking violently, dash lit up like a christmas tree and went in to limp mode. Mediator had enough of that. I got a new truck the following week, which I promptly traded for a Ram.

They will let you take them to court. Because they already are paying for the lawyers to deal with it. It's no money out of their pocket since it was money already spent and accounted for. And 99.9% of people are not going to lawyer up against them.

So, yeah, they'll legally bully you until you either go away or take them to court. Either way, it costs them nothing additional, unless they lose.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I had it out with Ford over a 2011 F150 Ecoboost. That truck was plagued with problems. They rebuilt the transmission 3 times in under a year, had the dreaded intercooler condensation issue, electrical gremlins. Eventually Ford sent me a letter stating that the issues I was having were due to the way I was driving it. I demanded a buy back or a lemon replacement. They refused. We went to mediation. Ford's smug attorneys stated there was nothing wrong with the truck, I was making it up. Until we went for a test drive. Just leaving the parking lot I barely got in to the throttle when the truck started shaking violently, dash lit up like a christmas tree and went in to limp mode. Mediator had enough of that. I got a new truck the following week, which I promptly traded for a Ram.

They will let you take them to court. Because they already are paying for the lawyers to deal with it. It's no money out of their pocket since it was money already spent and accounted for. And 99.9% of people are not going to lawyer up against them.

So, yeah, they'll legally bully you until you either go away or take them to court. Either way, it costs them nothing additional, unless they lose.

Perhaps the insider who told me that left out details. I'll never know. From a pragmatist standpoint, Ford lost a customer in you forever, I'd assume. So, regardless of "Staff Attorneys" or otherwise, the ill will cost them a damned fortune, wouldn't you agree?

Maybe the General was smarter than those hubristic Ford shave-tails. I was, at the time, asking why GM gave away so many questionable repairs, or, in that particular instance, why they did the repair when it was painfully obvious that the vehicle was abused mercilessly.

I do find it rather enigmatic that people will spend a fortune on a good or service and encounter stark indifference from whomever they have to deal with looking for satisfactory resolve.... then when the company balks and makes things difficult, said people will throw their hands up and give up.

 

[Jim113]

Called the mechanic we've been using for decades, service guy said for full synthetic they use something sounded like "dexos"(?) from Mobil 1, he said pretty sure it had the API cert but would have to check when I came in. Was kind of noisy in the background couldn't hear him well, it's a little confusing when I google dexos it seems like some kind of GM standard or is it an additive?

I'm familiar with DEXOS ... It is a blend that General Motors recommends in their 2011 and up vehicles ... This article can explain it ...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-...ils,specifics for a 2011 and later gas engine.

 

[randyl]

OP here. Here's what I ended up doing for the first 5K mi change:

Reminder this is a 2023 5.7 hemi, manual (and oil cap) says 0-W20 full synthetic, AGI certified and meets MS-6395, nothing more (though recommends Mopar).

1. Went with Penzoil Ultra. The jugs clearly state they're AGI certified, and meet MS-6395. Other than being full synthetic 0-W20, that's all the manual says is required, though it does "recommend" Mopar, though explicitly states others meeting MS-6395 are required.

2. Took a picture of my receipt for the oil, and the mechanic receipt who changed it (they also keep electronic records).

3. To answer some of the other posts, I got the vehicle out of state so going back to that dealer not an option for oil changes. Dealerships around here don't have good reputations, the mechanic shop we use are good people. I agree with comments about Magnusson, I think I'm in good shape but a battle would still be annoying.

4. As I was shopping around for oil, there were Mobil options that meet the manual requirements per the jug. I just felt warm and fuzzy paying a little more for Penzoil Ultra. Mechanic was fine using my oil, so I didn't want to take up their time making them hunt down a spec sheet on the Mobil 1 they use in bulk.

I don't disagree with anyone who says path of least resistance is dealership oil changes to avoid any future engine warranty disputes, but this is the path I chose.

 

[randyl]

OP again. Here's a little twist, just looked at Penzoil Ultra site, apparently they offer a 15 Year warranty:
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...VkYXBwLnN0YXRpYy9pbmRleC5odG1sP2xhbmc9ZW4tVVM

"click on warranty tab"

the warranty is free, and here are the 15 parts it covers:

1. Pistons & Piston Rings2. Oil Pump & Timing Chains3. Crankshaft and Bearings4. Rocker Arms and Pivots5. Rods6. Rod Bearings7. Push Rods8. Cam Shaft and Bearings9. Valve Stems and Guides10. Wrist Pins and Bushings11. Turbo Bearings12. Valve Lifter13. Cylinder Lining or Bore14. Distributor Drive Gear15. Timing Gears or Sprockets

I defer to those more knowledgeable, but is not #12 valve lifter the culprit of the hemi tick?

So it would seem that if one goes this route, then in the end Penzoil and Mopar can fight over whether it was a lubrication or manufacturing defect, but it would seem one of them would have to cover the tick caused by lifter failure?

Well in any case it's free, so I'm gonna sign up...

 

[Units]

I save receipts and document the maintenance on the Ram Owners site.

What is the “RAM Owners” site you’re referring to?

 

[randyl]

I'm familiar with DEXOS ... It is a blend that General Motors recommends in their 2011 and up vehicles ... This article can explain it ...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/dexos-1-vs-dexos-2-what-is-gm-dexos-oil/120130#:~:text=While GM recommends only using dexos rated oils,specifics for a 2011 and later gas engine.

Interesting.

But just stating for the record, was not intending to discuss what is "best" oil, interval etc. I'm sure there are thousands of posts duke-ing that out. My focus is just what to use to avoid a warranty rejection "you didn't use the *approved* oil". I change religiously at 5K/6mos and don't plan to tow much, so with that schedule I doubt the oil choice will make much wear/performance difference because I won't be subjecting it to heavy duty cycle or longer change intervals.

I do think it's interesting that 2023 requires 0-W20 and sounds like prior manuals specified different weights/viscosities for the same engine. Curious what that's all about.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I'm familiar with DEXOS ... It is a blend that General Motors recommends in their 2011 and up vehicles ... This article can explain it ...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/dexos-1-vs-dexos-2-what-is-gm-dexos-oil/120130#:~:text=While GM recommends only using dexos rated oils,specifics for a 2011 and later gas engine.

It's good oil.

 

[OldRider]

My dealer charges $62 for an oil change on my 22 model V6 and they always have a $15 off coupon online, so it ends up costing me $47. That’s as cheap as I can get it done anywhere else and if I have a problem down the road, they can’t give me any grief over oil changes. Also sets up a good relationship with the service manager which can be very valuable down the road if a problem arises.

 

[Marshall]

Interesting.

But just stating for the record, was not intending to discuss what is "best" oil, interval etc. I'm sure there are thousands of posts duke-ing that out. My focus is just what to use to avoid a warranty rejection "you didn't use the *approved* oil". I change religiously at 5K/6mos and don't plan to tow much, so with that schedule I doubt the oil choice will make much wear/performance difference because I won't be subjecting it to heavy duty cycle or longer change intervals.

I do think it's interesting that 2023 requires 0-W20 and sounds like prior manuals specified different weights/viscosities for the same engine. Curious what that's all about.

I am a 4th gen fellow, 2010, 2014, 5.7 and both of them said 5/20, I have run full syth on most of mine, and find it strange they would now say 0/20. To me that is what I would call a cold winter oil.

 

[bobby a]

Great topic and right on time for my question. Not trying to hijack this thread but my question quite close.
My 07.5 6.7 CTD Mega Cab 4/4. I have been running Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-40 for Turbo Diesel Truck for at least 12 years or more. My truck runs better with it. I was talking to a transport driver the other day and he has a newer Dodge Ram with the same engine. He told me to never you anything other than Rotala, he was quite adamant about it. He claims that the seals are not designed for synthetic oil. My mechanic says the guy is nuts !! putting it lightly. I would like your opinion. My truck has 162K and just started a slight oil leak in the pan. Opinions please.
I thank you in advance.