Buying equipment for the audio overhaul.

[89grand]

I've heard a lot worse, but I've heard and owned a lot better than the basic factory 6 speaker 8.4" Ram setup. This is going in a 2019 single cab.

I've ordered the following:

JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1 which is a sealed enclosure with a 400 watt built in amp.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93335

CDT Ram setup which is four 6x9 woofers and a pair of wideband 2" drivers for the dash.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/carspecific/dodgeram.php

I'm going to get an Audio Control lc2i pro and Kicker Key 200.4. I'm going to use the front factory radio speaker outputs to the Audio Control, then front out of it to the Kicker Key, the sub output to the JL Audio subwoofer, and use the factory radio to power the rear CDT 6x9's. The Kicker Key will run the door 6x9's and dash wideband drivers bi-amped. I may add an Audio Control Epicenter, as I already have one, and like them a lot.

I had considered going deep into DSP with a miniDSP, but it is expensive and time consuming, so I'll probably just use the Kicker Key. I have a Key 180.4 in my Jeep, so I'm familiar with it. I was going to use a Key 500.1, but it doesn't do any worth while tuning in my opinion, unlike the 180 or 200.4, so I bought the amplified JL sub instead.

I'll update this post as progress happens.

 

[canadiankodiak700]

You have no need for the lc2i of your using the kicker key. Go directly into the key from factory wiring.

You need to do a bit of research on each piece of equipment, you have alot of redundancy in your plans

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[89grand]

You have no need for the lc2i of your using the kicker key. Go directly into the key from factory wiring.

You need to do a bit of research on each piece of equipment, you have alot of redundancy in your plans

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The Kicker Key doesn't have a pass through RCA for a sub amp. I need full range and sub outputs. I could use the front speaker outputs to the Kicker, then tap into the rear speakers high level for the JL Audio amp, but then the sub level is controlled by the fader and rear speakers. For just $129 I can use the Audio Control lc21 pro, and use RCA's to both. It's also a line driver, has the ability to "trick" the system that speakers are connected (if needed), and has several options for grounding isolation. If I use the Epicenter, and I probably will, I'll need RCA inputs for it. The lci2 comes with a sub level controller, and thatis a bonus as well, as it's optional for the JL Audio sub.

I've given this a lot of thought over several weeks. I don't "think" anything is redundant. I've been into car audio for 30 + years. If I'm missing something, I'll gladly listen.

 

[canadiankodiak700]

Even with the lc2i pro, you will still need to buy load resistors, the ram is very picky that way. Personally after looking at the JL enclosure you mentioned, I think you would be much further ahead with a key 500.1 and use its bass restore and correction feature along with a nice 10 or 12 sub of choice.
If using the key amps, you have no need for the lc2i or the epicenter as they already do the corrections for you and provide your load resistors built in.


As for needing sub out and fill range for your JL sub, no you don't. It has sister level inputs, a simple tap into either the rears or the front speakers is all you need. You shouldn't be touching your f/r fader once you set your system with the smart DSP.

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[89grand]

Even with the lc2i pro, you will still need to buy load resistors, the ram is very picky that way. Personally after looking at the JL enclosure you mentioned, I think you would be much further ahead with a key 500.1 and use its bass restore and correction feature along with a nice 10 or 12 sub of choice.
If using the key amps, you have no need for the lc2i or the epicenter as they already do the corrections for you and provide your load resistors built in.

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The lc2i pro can load the input with 3 resistance choices, so it can fool the headunit if needed. The Key 500.1 can do nothing but correct for factory bass roll off if it is used. The lc2i can too, but the Ram head unit doesn't appear to do it, so the Kicker 500.1 offers me nothing. I don't need the Accubass feature of the AC unit either, but that's all the Key 500.1 does. The Epicenter is an entirely different animal than factory bass roll off at certain volume levels.

I bought my first Epicenter probably 25 years ago, and always loved what it does. I don't have that unit now, but I do have an unused newer one.

 

[VelocityC6Z]

I went the distance chasing down good sound. I finally replaced my factory 8.4" ra4 with a kenwood, and it was like night and day. The stock head unit just delivers poor signal. Which is shocking for Harmon. Right now with my kenwood excelon head unit, it's like a music theatre inside.

pioneers in the doors, kenwood in the dash. Focal 12" sub in a fox box , driven by a jl 1000.1. The door and dash speakers cut off at 250 hz, the sub cuts off at 250 on its way up. I have -5 dB if gain above 5,000hz on the dash speakers, and 4 ohm resistors so the highs aren't too harsh... the setup is incredible.

I almost bought the both dsp and the twk from jl, but it was just as easy to buy the kenwood head unit and then sell the ra4. Works out in the end

 

[Darth]

I have a 2017 Ram with the base 6 speakers. The front dash speakers are 8 ohms just fyi

 

[89grand]

I received the JL Audio subwoofer today, it fits absolutely perfectly in the rear storage tray thing in single cabs. If it was any thicker, it wouldn't fit, if thinner it would be loose and need a way to keep it tight. This fits like it as made specifically for a single cab Ram. I took the amp out and turned it 180 degrees, and the same with the woofer. I wanted the inputs nearest the driver door rather than towards the passenger door. It is just test fitted for now, but fits as well as one could want.

 

[canadiankodiak700]

I have a 2017 Ram with the base 6 speakers. The front dash speakers are 8 ohms just fyi

Yup, everyone and thier dog knows that on here. Lol

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[canadiankodiak700]

I went the distance chasing down good sound. I finally replaced my factory 8.4" ra4 with a kenwood, and it was like night and day. The stock head unit just delivers poor signal. Which is shocking for Harmon. Right now with my kenwood excelon head unit, it's like a music theatre inside.

pioneers in the doors, kenwood in the dash. Focal 12" sub in a fox box , driven by a jl 1000.1. The door and dash speakers cut off at 250 hz, the sub cuts off at 250 on its way up. I have -5 dB if gain above 5,000hz on the dash speakers, and 4 ohm resistors so the highs aren't too harsh... the setup is incredible.

I almost bought the both dsp and the twk from jl, but it was just as easy to buy the kenwood head unit and then sell the ra4. Works out in the end

I have absolutely no doubt about that Kenwood really improving the sound quality. They have never failed me yet.
Most of the new 8.4 units are made by Panasonic, but regardless of who makes it, it's built to FCA specs so its thier fault for the poor signal quality.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did you sell your 8.4 for?
I'm doing the same, right now trying to finalize my decision on which Kenwood Excelon I want.

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[VelocityC6Z]

I haven't sold it yet, I need to post it in here. I've seen it going for 350-400 on here. I just need the make the post to sell it.

 

[89grand]

I installed the front door 6x9's. For now they are running off the radio. The have similar sensitivity to the factory speakers which is surprising. I expected the stock dash speakers to be too loud, but they're really not. It won't be like this too long even if there was a mismatch. I had to cut a little out of the factory mount because of how big the magnets are which I show with the yellow line. I used close cell foam between the woofers and mounting surface, and another on the outside edge of the woofer. I don't think it is thick enough to really seal against the door though.

 

[Graygoose]

The Kicker Key doesn't have a pass through RCA for a sub amp.

It does have a pass thru 12v, blue wire in harness, IF your using DC offset. I have a KEY2004 and KEY5001 in the new GC. The KEY5001 does detect and correct factory EQ, the KEY5001 has the KEYLOC basically integrated
Pretty neat amp.
Im only using 300-350 watts of it.

 

[89grand]

It does have a pass thru 12v, blue wire in harness, IF your using DC offset. I have a KEY2004 and KEY5001 in the new GC. The KEY5001 does detect and correct factory EQ, the KEY5001 has the KEYLOC basically integrated
Pretty neat amp.
Im only using 300-350 watts of it.

Yeah, I meant the Key 200.4 didn't have pass through RCA's for a sub, which is why I chose to use the Audio Control lc2i pro, since I need to run the 200.4 and a sub with independent level control. The Key 500.1 does fix factory bass roll off, like cutting bass after a certain volume point (my base 8.4 6 speakers doesn't do that), but it doesn't do in car frequency response of the system like the 180/200.4 so I elected to use a powered JL Sub. Now I don't need to mount another amp. The Key 500.1 is cool for systems that needs what it does.

The Audio Control lc2i unit will do what the Key 500.1 can do, with what they call Accubass, but it's not needed in my setup. I will however be using an Audio Control Epicenter, since I listen to some music with really weak bass on the original recording. The Epicenter is wonderful at dealing with that.

 

[Graygoose]

Yes the 500.1 will take the factory EQ settings, flatten them out and allows you to boost as you see fit, not what the manufacture dictates.
Similar to the Epicenter, just boost bass levels not generally heard in factory settings.

 

[Gixxer750]

I've heard a lot worse, but I've heard and owned a lot better than the basic factory 6 speaker 8.4" Ram setup. This is going in a 2019 single cab.

I've ordered the following:

JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1 which is a sealed enclosure with a 400 watt built in amp.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93335

CDT Ram setup which is four 6x9 woofers and a pair of wideband 2" drivers for the dash.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/carspecific/dodgeram.php

I'm going to get an Audio Control lc2i pro and Kicker Key 200.4. I'm going to use the front factory radio speaker outputs to the Audio Control, then front out of it to the Kicker Key, the sub output to the JL Audio subwoofer, and use the factory radio to power the rear CDT 6x9's. The Kicker Key will run the door 6x9's and dash wideband drivers bi-amped. I may add an Audio Control Epicenter, as I already have one, and like them a lot.

I had considered going deep into DSP with a miniDSP, but it is expensive and time consuming, so I'll probably just use the Kicker Key. I have a Key 180.4 in my Jeep, so I'm familiar with it. I was going to use a Key 500.1, but it doesn't do any worth while tuning in my opinion, unlike the 180 or 200.4, so I bought the amplified JL sub instead.

I'll update this post as progress happens.

Start with this Audiocontrol D4.800 I'm selling for $575 + shipping. Never been opened and its the **** for integration. Lose nothing. Gain audiophile tuning capabilities

 

[89grand]

Start with this Audiocontrol D4.800 I'm selling for $575 + shipping. Never been opened and its the **** for integration. Lose nothing. Gain audiophile tuning capabilities

That's nice amp. I already have the gear I mentioned. I just need to install all of it now.

 

[Gixxer750]

I hope it works out for you. Please let me know. What I found to be true is, especially with the alpine system (the base 6 speaker was so much easier) you do not have full range in those trucks. Anywhere. Even my 6 speaker Harmon OE radio didn't have the full range to the rear doors. The alpine is a SOB and you cannot get good sound without summing at least 6 speakers. (4 in the basement model) i actually tapped the sub signal to get the low 30-60 hz into my RCA out for my sub amp. I couldn't have done it without the D6.1200. The Acubass is a cute feature. But in audi, ram, dodge, Mercedes, and cadillac; I have achieved a better sound by just using a remote gain for the subs. I'm sure there are vehicles that just crap out without the accubass, but to me the line level inputs are the reason I've gone with Audiocontrol when I did. They can take a massive wattage input signal and not batt an eyelash. I'm actually going to be returning this one to sonic electronics tomorrow. I really wanted to pass on the crazy deal I got on it instead of surrender it back for them to charge 769.00+.
Also I have had crap luck with the PAC products. So an all in one unit was just amazing. In hindsight, I probably would have scrubbed the whole op if I had to keep playing with pac and maestro products. But I'm sure that to is also a personal thing. If you know anyone who may be doing an upgrade in the future or that even wants to resell for a solid $100 profit id love to not send it back lol. They really p*****d me off.....********

 

[89grand]

I made some wiring harnesses today (will show pictures later since they're boring to look at when not installed) and installed the Epicenter controller. I bought a used panel from ebay so I could take the blank section off of it, and drill a hole in it and leave my original piece untouched. I disassembled the Epicenter controller from the housing it was in, and had to trim the through hole leads and connector tabs to make it fit, but it fits perfectly, but just barely.

As it comes:



How I installed it:

 

[regal81455]

Nice! Looks good! I installed my epicenter knob in the pull out panel along side your knee in the center console. Very discreet and incredibly easy to reach and operate. I intend to install trailer brake so that spot wouldn't have worked for me personally.