Buying equipment for the audio overhaul.

[89grand]

Nice! Looks good! I installed my epicenter knob in the pull out panel along side your knee in the center console. Very discreet and incredibly easy to reach and operate. I intend to install trailer brake so that spot wouldn't have worked for me personally.

I don't have the full center console. Are you talking about the slide out cubby in the dash? If so that's the first place I looked, but my Glock 19 fits perfectly in the there, so I couldn't put the controller in there. I call that cubby the Glock Box.

 

[Mleads310]

89grand, question:

I just purchased cdt CL-69S.2 for the front doors. I probably know the answer to this, but please tell me they sound way better when amped? I currently have the alpine 9 system and thought they would at least sound somewhat comparable in volume to my stock front 6x9s. I just want to confirm with you how they sound before I go thru the trouble of running the wires.

Also what would be the best place to tap into the front door speakers wires considering I'm going to locate the amp for these under the rear driver's seat.

 

[89grand]

89grand, question:

I just purchased cdt CL-69S.2 for the front doors. I probably know the answer to this, but please tell me they sound way better when amped? I currently have the alpine 9 system and thought they would at least sound somewhat comparable in volume to my stock front 6x9s. I just want to confirm with you how they sound before I go thru the trouble of running the wires.

Also what would be the best place to tap into the front door speakers wires considering I'm going to locate the amp for these under the rear driver's seat.

I have the front and rear CL-69S's installed, but they are running off the stock radio at the moment. I think the front ones sound good, the rear I have running just off the radio too, but I have a 250hz high pass crossover on them, so by themselves they don't sound good, but they are just to improve the overall sound up front. I put the high pass crossover on the rear speakers because I don't want any weird bass cancellation between them running full range and my subwoofer that is behind the seat right next to them. The fronts will be high passed through the amp at either 60 or 80hz. The 250hz crossover came with the CDT Unity 8's but I didn't need them for that as they'll be crossover over by the amp at 320hz.

I haven't installed the amp yet. I was surprised that the CDT's seem to have about the same sensitivity as the stock speakers, in other words they are not down in volume in comparison to the stock speakers. I expect improvements and more volume when they are amped.

I bought a T-harness from Net Audio to make connecting everything very easy and no cutting of the factory wiring. I used this one. It even has a power and ground to power my Audio Control lc2i pro. I'm going to connect the front outputs from the radio using the t-harness to the Audio Control, then use it's main output RCA's to the Kicker Key amp, and the sub out to the Epicenter and then to the powered sub. I'm going to connected the Kicker amp to the front door CDT's through the t-harness to use the factory wiring, and connect the rear radio outputs to the rear speakers through the harness, then run new wires to the dash CDT Unity 8's. This sounds confusing, I hope it makes sense.

https://netaudio.com/product/2013-18-dodge-ram-radio-t-harness-2/

I think by next weekend I should have the install done.

 

[89grand]

I mounted the CDT Unity 8 2" wide band dash speakers to the 3.5" speaker adapters. I used nice looking screws, even though no one will see them. Lol. I'm trying to do everything right, and to look good, even the hidden stuff. The more I can do before hand, the quicker the install will go once I start it. I hate being in the middle of a project, and then realize I have to stop to make something because I wasn't prepared.

Holy crap, the Neo magnets are strong as hell on these. They were trying to pull off the hardware as I was trying to install it. It happened a couple of times.

 

[Mleads310]

I'll admit it's definitely a bit confusing , but I think I'm following. To give some background on what I'm trying to do/have already done. I'm looking to just give the system a bit more "sound and we'll roundness" especially at a higher volume. I currently replaced the rear stock sub with a P2D4 "10. Using a lc2i to grab signal from factory sub output and powered with a sound ordinance m350. Sound is pretty darn good for what it is.
Rear doors are infinity kappa 3 way 6x9 powered of stock HU. They were too bright at first, but then realized it was out of phase so it's producing a much clearer sound. Not great but pretty good.
Front dash speakers are jbl gx302 3.5" 2 way powered by factory HU. Sound is much better than stock.
Front doors I replaced with the CDT 6x9s powered by the factory HU and they are muddled and seam to only produce about 70% of the volume as the stock component 6x9s. Keep in mind I only dry fit them (used a speaker spacer to give clearance just to hold them in place) before I decide to start cutting and possibly adding an amp to them. I wasn't expecting it to match the volume of the stock speakers due to it being aftermarket, but it's no where close. I am at a cross road. Leave the stock 6x9s in and call it a day or proceed as you have and get the T harness(nice find by the way) so I can add an amp to power them. I'd hate to go through all that trouble only to be disappointed by the sound they produce vs the factory speakers. Don't get me wrong I probably should've went the same route you did, but i already owned the sub/amp and lc2i before starting this project and can't justify going in a different direction.

Apologize for the long post. Thank you again for the ideas and comments.

 

[89grand]

I came across a post on another forum about the CDT 69S 2 ohm version that you have about 2 weeks ago. They measured the DCR (DC Resistance of the voice coil) and it measured 3.4 ohms. A true 2 ohm speaker should measure less than 2 ohms, or very close to it. The general consensus was that they had to be 4 ohm speakers.

I don't know what if any BS CDT might be pulling on the supposed 2 ohm versions, but a 3.4 ohm DCR is not a 2 ohm speaker, but a 4 ohm like I have. The person contacted CDT and they claimed the DCR measurements were normal, even though they aren't.

Since I was running the 4 ohm model it didn't concern me, but I was left wondering if CDT even has a specific 2 ohm version even though they claim they do.

My truck has the base 6 speaker 8.4" radio, and it's a lot less complicated to get signals from than the Alpine setup. If you are going to use an amp, and connecting one to your setup is less simple, than the CDT 6x9's impedance is less important. Installing it in the Alpine system and it's amplifier, which I believe requires 2 ohm speakers, then you'll have reduced volume if the CDT's are in fact 4 ohm instead of 2.

 

[89grand]

Did your speakers come with a data sheet? If so, I'd be curious what yours says as far as DCR compared to mine. I bet they are the same, even though they shouldn't be. Yours should be close to half of what my sheet says.

 

[Mleads310]

No true data sheet, but this is what was included. Your theory on the ohm not being correct make sense and I'm thinking you're correct.

 

[regal81455]

Yes I have the full center. There is a little removable panel just above the map holder slots. Figured if I ever needed replacing that panel couldnt be too awful expensive. Really like the name of the "Glock Box" lol, should trademark it!

 

[Mleads310]

89Grand, just to update. I emailed CDT and explained the situation and they stated their CL-69S is wired 2-3 ohmh, but their Model: CL-69Sub/CF is wired 2 ohm. Definitely confusing considering the 69S is listed under their 2ohm section. CDT rep was great and said I could return for refund or replace them with the different model. But the 69Sub/CF presents a depth issue. Also either way I have to pay for return shipping $22. So I may have a pair of CDT 6x9s for sale for local pick up soon. Lol. Just wanted to let you know how they responded.

 

[89grand]

89Grand, just to update. I emailed CDT and explained the situation and they stated their CL-69S is wired 2-3 ohmh, but their Model: CL-69Sub/CF is wired 2 ohm. Definitely confusing considering the 69S is listed under their 2ohm section. CDT rep was great and said I could return for refund or replace them with the different model. But the 69Sub/CF presents a depth issue. Also either way I have to pay for return shipping $22. So I may have a pair of CDT 6x9s for sale for local pick up soon. Lol. Just wanted to let you know how they responded.

While they sell good speakers, there is some definite shell games with them. A speaker is either a 4 ohm or a 2 ohm. They seem to be marketing their standard 4 ohm as both, and selling them as separate speakers and that is straight up BS.

On top of that, a speakers rated impedance is how the voice coil is made. They can't "wire" it differently after the fact.

 

[89grand]

I have the t-harness mostly done. I had to re-route the wires differently than how it came, but it has made things pretty easy. The wires with the small plugs are going to plug into the Audio Control LC2i Pro (power, ground, remote turn on out, and speaker level inputs), the white, grey and blue wires are going to connect to the Kicker Key 200.4. The white and grey connecting to the Key's rear outputs to feed the door speakers. The purple and green are going to be connected together so that the radio will power the rear speakers. New wires will be ran from the dash speakers.



It was like this before:



I made a RCA to Kicker Key RCA plug by cutting a Stinger RCA and cutting the RCA's off the Kicker harness and connected the wires together, so RCA from Audio Control, to Kicker plug for the Key.

 

[Mleads310]

That looks great! I'm kicking myself for not going a similar route. Maybe a enough kicks and I'll end end following suit.

I'm curious because I have the alpine system. Could I use the harness for the front doors/dash and retain original speaker wires?

T harness to grab signal from HU, wires from t harness to kicker key, find alpine amp and tap into output side of the amp for the front doors/dash speaker wires?

With the rear doors and sub, I can just reconnect those channels from the t harness back to the original factory speaker wires prior to the alpine amp.

Again great work and can't wait to see the final result.

 

[89grand]

I don't think mine works with the Alpine system, or at least not easily if it does. I don't know a lot about it, but I think it's tricky to work with because the Alpine amp has different frequency signals through different outputs. My base 6 speaker simply has 4 full range outputs. Net Audio has some stuff that works with the Alpine, but it costs a lot more than mine did. I believe they can do custom stuff too.

 

[89grand]

I'm going to mount the LC2i Pro in the upper glove box. I had to create that hole where the wires are running though. There will be another set of RCA's that will go to the Epicenter under the drivers seat, and from there to the JL subwoofer.



I'd really like to just knock this install out, but it's still 100 degrees in Phoenix, and working in a car when it's that hot is not pleasant. So I keep trying to do everything I possibly can out side of the truck.

 

[89grand]

You guys are probably getting sick of my pictures, so let me know if you are.

Here is what the upper glove box is going to look like. I did a quick dry fit to see if something I did behind the glove box was going to cause a problem, then the second pic is what it will look like with all the wiring.




Here is the fused distribution block for the JL sub (8 gauge) Kicker Key (12 gauge) and the Epicenter (18 gauge). There is a clear plastic cover that goes over it, but it's not on yet, either is the main battery cable which will go from the battery to the block. It is a 4 gauge.



Here's how it goes into the cabin, through the clutch plate and aftermarket rubber piece. I was hoping it would be nicer looking than this, but the first hole was too small, so I cut it off, and the second hole was too big. I covered it in shrink sleeving and tesa tape to seal it up.

 

[Mleads310]

Keep them coming! This is a great write up as far I'm concerned. Everytime there's an update I start doing more research on the kicker key.

 

[89grand]

I changed the Epicenter controller knob with one that looks more factory.

Before:


After:

 

[89grand]

I finally finished the install of the Kicker Key last night. My Epicenter and subwoofer still isn't completed yet.

I have a couple of my pointers on the Key amp. I took the head rest off and put the mic on the seat without it. I think it would be too high other wise. Second, if you don't completely like the tune, like in my case, too soft in the treble, you can adjust things and rerun it. In my case, I took the treble down a few notches on the headunit and reran it. Afterward, the treble was were I wanted it. I could have just boosted the treble on the headunit, but I wanted the tune to sound good with the tone controls flat. You could do the same with the bass. If it's too much, boost the bass slightly and rerun it. Not enough bass, lower it in the headunit and rerun it.

So how does it sound? Fantastic actually. I could almost tolerate it without the sub, but it will only get better when I finish installing it. Imaging is spot on and is above the dash, about at the center of the windshield, and the eq seems pretty spot on as well, after my initial treble tweak. You can't adjust the tune, but even if I could, I'm not sure I would. You could probably get better results from a DSP unit and many, many hours of tuning, but it wouldn't be a big improvement, and that's where the Key shines, 5 minutes and done with a very good tune.

Oh and it's loud too, 50w x 4 is plenty of power. Level matching between the door and dash is great, but you could adjust that with the gains if needed. I had to bring the gains up after the tune, as the LC2i was at it's ideal setting before the Key amp was loud enough. Took about 15 minutes to get dialed in. I'm not sure why Kicker recommends running the auto setup with the gains all the way down, since they'll likely be too low after.

I really think this amp is the best bang for the buck for sound quality improvements. For $250, nothing else you could do would improve the sound more. I think this would be a big improvement on the stock speakers as well, although not as good as better speakers and the tune.

If I had the choice between the Key and stock speakers, or aftermarket speakers ran off the headunit, I'd take the Key and stock speakers.

 

[rotwiler]

I tried the regular lc2i and bass rolloff improved some, but accubass sounded odd to me or would raise and lower on own. Now I run a amp pro ch41 and happy, it's been flawless and perfect flat signal with zero bass rolloff since the t harness takes the signal before the amp. I really didn't want to spend the amount they wanted for it, then ran across a amazon open box one for under $140 and glad I did. I didn't add amp for doors since I am pretty happy with sound after adding the 2ohm jbl speakers, but I have the rca outputs if I need to later. Just using the amp pro for a 1,600 watt amp and 2 kappa 1200ws.