Cable shut off motor

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Mgm_Harrison

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Does anyone know what this cable is for? Stock 5.9L notices it was loose taped it and motor cut off, cleaned and tightened now radio don’t turn on.
 

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RamDiver

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Does anyone know what this cable is for? Stock 5.9L notices it was loose taped it and motor cut off, cleaned and tightened now radio don’t turn on.

Is that your negative battery post?

If it is, it requires a good cleaning before you should ever expect anything electronic to function on your truck.

I'm in awe that anything functions correctly.

I don't have a picture of a battery post/clamp cleaner on my phone, they're about $5 from Harbour Freight.

This is what my negative battery post looks like.

20231106_161621.jpg


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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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Is that your negative battery post?

If it is, it requires a good cleaning before you should ever expect anything electronic to function on your truck.

I'm in awe that anything functions correctly.

.
Yes drivers side negative, after cleaning and hooking back up a code was on but then later turned off, heated seats, all lights, ect still work radio lights work but no sound.
I wanted to see if that was the reason for truck activating code p0633 (skim key) truck would turn on perfectly then die within second but next day would run fine without moving truck
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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Is that your negative battery post?

If it is, it requires a good cleaning before you should ever expect anything electronic to function on your truck.

I'm in awe that anything functions correctly.

I don't have a picture of a battery post/clamp cleaner on my phone, they're about $5 from Harbour Freight.

This is what my negative battery post looks like.

View attachment 531503


.
I’ll pick up some cleaner and brush wire tomorrow clean it all up hopefully that was my problem, been going down a rabbit hole with this code
 

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RamDiver

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Yes drivers side negative, after cleaning and hooking back up a code was on but then later turned off, heated seats, all lights, ect still work radio lights work but no sound.
I wanted to see if that was the reason for truck activating code p0633 (skim key) truck would turn on perfectly then die within second but next day would run fine without moving truck

Did you use a proper battery post/clamp cleaner such as this link below and coat the contact areas of both with a thin layer of dielectric grease?


Our trucks are rolling microcomputers and are very sensitive to the supply voltage provided by the battery.

Like I said earlier, it's a complete wonder that anything worked.

Before chasing any electrical gremlins, we must confirm the battery condition and connections.

Be sure to clean both the positive and negative posts and clamps and coat the contact surfaces with a very thin film of dielectric grease.

How old is the battery?

.
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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Did you use a proper battery post/clamp cleaner such as this link below and coat the contact areas of both with a thin layer of dielectric grease?


Our trucks are rolling microcomputers and are very sensitive to the supply voltage provided by the battery.

Like I said earlier, it's a complete wonder that anything worked.

Before chasing any electrical gremlins, we must confirm the battery condition and connections.

Be sure to clean both the positive and negative posts and clamps and coat the contact surfaces with a very thin film of dielectric grease.

How old is the battery?

.
No, I didn’t use any cleaner today just wire brush real fast didn’t have much time to mess with truck, was already dark out. But I will properly clean and coat them tomorrow.
As of the battery’s are little under the 2 year mark and reads little over 14v in truck with it running and ac on
Noticed too that my heated seats light used to flash and won’t turn on, but now they work
 

RamDiver

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No, I didn’t use any cleaner today just wire brush real fast didn’t have much time to mess with truck, was already dark out. But I will properly clean and coat them tomorrow.
As of the battery’s are little under the 2 year mark and reads little over 14v in truck with it running and ac on
Noticed too that my heated seats light used to flash and won’t turn on, but now they work

The 14 volts is from the alternator. What's the voltage on the battery in the morning after sitting all night, before starting?

AFAIK, batteries in your area only survive 2 to 3 years, on average.

Before chasing any electrical gremlins, you'd be best to have the battery load tested. Many auto parts stores will test it for free.

.
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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The 14 volts is from the alternator. What's the voltage on the battery in the morning after sitting all night, before starting?

AFAIK, batteries in your area only survive 2 to 3 years, on average.

Before chasing any electrical gremlins, you'd be best to have the battery load tested. Many auto parts stores will test it for free.
The 14 volts is from the alternator. What's the voltage on the battery in the morning after sitting all night, before starting?

AFAIK, batteries in your area only survive 2 to 3 years, on average.

Before chasing any electrical gremlins, you'd be best to have the battery load tested. Many auto parts stores will test it for free.

.
It starts fine after sitting whole day nothing would suspect me a dead battery but you never know, I’ll take it to get tested tomorrow afternoon when I get off work and if the test are fine I’ll clean terminals and coat them then go from there and let you know.
Thank you for your time
 

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Taking a close look at your picture, it appears to have a 4 gauge wire & three 12 gauge wires going to the Negative Battery Post.

One of the 12 gauge wires looks to have a yellow ring terminal connector on it, that is not a factory connection & that type of connector is not always reliable.
I would try following that wire & investigate that connector

1699507933694.png
 

RamDiver

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It starts fine after sitting whole day nothing would suspect me a dead battery but you never know, I’ll take it to get tested tomorrow afternoon when I get off work and if the test are fine I’ll clean terminals and coat them then go from there and let you know.
Thank you for your time

I would suggest that you clean both terminals and clamps before load testing the battery.

Think about it, you want a valid test of the battery's ability to produce energy while you know the connection is likely compromised. :cool:

Unless you decide to buy your own battery load tester, then you can test before and after. They're $20.

I've had one for decades just because it makes my life easier to not have to drive anywhere to obtain the results.


Don't waste your time with the digital load testers, they're nowhere near as reliable as the toaster style.

.
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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Taking a close look at your picture, it appears to have a 4 gauge wire & three 12 gauge wires going to the Negative Battery Post.

One of the 12 gauge wires looks to have a yellow ring terminal connector on it, that is not a factory connection & that type of connector is not always reliable.
I would try following that wire & investigate that connector
Taking a close look at your picture, it appears to have a 4 gauge wire & three 12 gauge wires going to the Negative Battery Post.

One of the 12 gauge wires looks to have a yellow ring terminal connector on it, that is not a factory connection & that type of connector is not always reliable.
I would try following that wire & investigate that connector

View attachment 531518
I’m not around my truck to take a picture but it’s this exact wire I found on another form of him trying to find where it goes. It runs along with a bunch of other wires, idk what it could be.
 

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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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I would suggest that you clean both terminals and clamps before load testing the battery.

Think about it, you want a valid test of the battery's ability to produce energy while you know the connection is likely compromised. :cool:

Unless you decide to buy your own battery load tester, then you can test before and after. They're $20.

I've had one for decades just because it makes my life easier to not have to drive anywhere to obtain the results.


Don't waste your time with the digital load testers, they're nowhere near as reliable as the toaster style.

.
Could I just take the battery’s out of truck and get them tested ?
 

RamDiver

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Could I just take the battery’s out of truck and get them tested ?

If you really want to go to that effort.

One of my first bosses always impressed upon me, to work smart, not hard.
I consider myself a bit lazy in that I always look for the least effort to complete the task.

Everyone who owns a truck and completes their own maintenance should own a battery post/clamp cleaner because this is a regular maintenance item. I think in the link posted above it's $6.

I noticed you keep saying batteries, is there more than one?



I’m not around my truck to take a picture but it’s this exact wire I found on another form of him trying to find where it goes. It runs along with a bunch of other wires, idk what it could be.


The picture in your first post shows a black wire with a yellow crimp lug, attached to the negative battery terminal. This appears to be an aftermarket installation and it would be impossible to guess where it goes.

Anyone can push a wire into a split-loom to make it neat and appear as OEM.

Unfortunately, when we buy used, it's always an adventure to figure out what the previous owner has modified and why.

You might try following the wire, check the positive post for a similar wire and trace it, or, if you're feeling adventurous, disconnect the wire, test and your lights and horn, then wait to discover. :cool:

.
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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If you really want to go to that effort.

One of my first bosses always impressed upon me, to work smart, not hard.
I consider myself a bit lazy in that I always look for the least effort to complete the task.

Everyone who owns a truck and completes their own maintenance should own a battery post/clamp cleaner because this is a regular maintenance item. I think in the link posted above it's $6.

I noticed you keep saying batteries, is there more than one?
Mainly I don’t feel like driving it right now with these issues.

I wish we had a harbor freight in the town I live in, nearest one is 45 min away might have to make trip Saturday tho, unless autozone, Napa, or O’Reillys has a decent price one.

Yes two batteries it’s a diesel
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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If you really want to go to that effort.

One of my first bosses always impressed upon me, to work smart, not hard.
I consider myself a bit lazy in that I always look for the least effort to complete the task.

Everyone who owns a truck and completes their own maintenance should own a battery post/clamp cleaner because this is a regular maintenance item. I think in the link posted above it's $6.

I noticed you keep saying batteries, is there more than one?






The picture in your first post shows a black wire with a yellow crimp lug, attached to the negative battery terminal. This appears to be an aftermarket installation and it would be impossible to guess where it goes.

Anyone can push a wire into a split-loom to make it neat and appear as OEM.

Unfortunately, when we buy used, it's always an adventure to figure out what the previous owner has modified and why.

You might try following the wire, check the positive post for a similar wire and trace it, or, if you're feeling adventurous, disconnect the wire, test and your lights and horn, then wait to discover. :cool:

.
See the thing is tho my dad bought the truck from dealership brand new in 2006 and babied it all its life then I bought it 7 years ago everything oem on it, only aftermarket electronic is a trailer brake. Only thing I can think of major that’s been replaced is the ecm 7 years ago.
I feel it has to be something major if removing that wire kills the motor
 
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RamDiver

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Mainly I don’t feel like driving it right now with these issues.

I wish we had a harbor freight in the town I live in, nearest one is 45 min away might have to make trip Saturday tho, unless autozone, Napa, or O’Reillys has a decent price one.

Yes two batteries it’s a diesel


If the parts stores aren't conveniently located, it might be more worth your time to mail order the post cleaner and the load tester from HarbourFreight or another store.

I'm retired but still put a high value on my time and if the costs are reasonable, I'd spend a few dollars to save my free time. :cool:

I installed my winter wheels yesterday because the dealer wants $70 for the task, while it's in for warranty checks. I won't say how long it took me to find all the bits and get organized but the task plus cleanup took about 90 minutes.

The flat section of my laneway is quite far from my house & garage where the wheels & trolley jack live.

Given that you have 2 batteries and no starting challenges, chances are that your fault is not a battery fault. However, load testing is a standard operating procedure (SOP) before beginning to pursue any electrical type gremlins, as is cleaning the battery connections.



I feel it has to be something major if removing that wire kills the motor


I wasn't aware that disconnecting this wire killed the engine, I wouldn't have suggested that action, had I known. :cool:

Back to tracing wires then. Also looking to see if the positive terminal has a matching wire.

.
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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If the parts stores aren't conveniently located, it might be more worth your time to mail order the post cleaner and the load tester from HarbourFreight or another store.

I'm retired but still put a high value on my time and if the costs are reasonable, I'd spend a few dollars to save my free time. :cool:
I think it would take longer to get here shipping it than for me to drive 45 minutes one way on a Saturday, plus it’s like a candy store so looking at everything buying stuff you never knew you needed is a plus hah
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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I installed my winter wheels yesterday because the dealer wants $70 for the task, while it's in for warranty checks. I won't say how long it took me to find all the bits and get organized but the task plus cleanup took about 90 minutes.
Nothing wrong with that as long as you don’t scratch the rims haha
 
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Mgm_Harrison

Mgm_Harrison

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Back to tracing wires then. Also looking to see if the positive terminal has a matching wire.
No positive terminal doesn’t have any wires that’s not attached to terminal
 
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