Fuel Pump - Box Cutting

[THRobinson]

So, pump is on its way out, needs replaced. I'm in Canada, Ontario... Which means a rusted mess underneath. Also means dropping the tanks risks needing new bolts, straps, and if anything happens to the connections at the rear if the tank, I'll need a new tank. Can't get that stuff anymore... All the scrappers in the region now recycle the vehicles immediately, no parting out.

So, metal cutting blade and a heavy duty jigsaw, access hole in box. These days I haul stuff rarely and not heavy. Tonneau cover so not worried about looks.

Any advice? Measurements to use? I'll be measuring but always nice to have a reference to go by.

 

[crash68]

There have been a few people on this forum that found it easier to pull the bed off the truck to access the fuel tank.

 

[THRobinson]

Debated that... What is it, 6 bolts, taillights and the 3 screws holding in the gas spout?

What's the downside? Is it just size/weight? Or something I'm missing? Nuts impossible to get at? Again... Ontario... So rusted I'll need breaker bar access.

 

[3pedals]

Super easy to pull bed…just need a second set of reasonably strong hands to lift it up and shift back far enough to access pump from above. No downside I’m aware of, but also didn’t have to deal with any rust on my truck

 

[THRobinson]

Haha... when it comes to car forums, I always look at where the person giving advice is from, because some of you lucky folk have no idea what rust is.

I had so many great cars scrapped, in perfect working condition, just rotted off the road. Mine is sagging under the driver side door a bit now, but, can't do much because no actual metal left to weld to.

But, in school (again) and can't affoard another vehicle so, cheaper to fix than replace. Sadly after this, the manifold gasket is pooched on the right said as well. Sounds like a Harley.

I remember about 25yrs ago, pulling the box of an F150 (mid-80s model) and luckily that was super easy and I was in better shape so needed no help. I will now.

 

[FabricGATOR]

You may find a way to leverage lift the bed one corner at a time with a jack (or even a 2x4) and prop it up with a stack of cinderblocks ($2 each at home depot). then roll the truck from under.
I've done stuff like that by myself.

 

[THRobinson]

I was thinking lift it up, walk back enough to access the pump, and rest it on some saw horses. So half on the truck and half horses.

 

[Dean2]

I replaced the fuel pump on my 1996 3 years ago, no issues with bolts, straps etc and my area uses lots of salt too. If I was going to put an access door in, and I think all vehicles should have one along with a proper drain Bu$ng (can't beieve that is censored) on the bottom of the tank, I would do it right. Cut out the floor metal giving yourself lots of working room, then replace with heavy gauge steel that overlaps the opening and screw it in place. If you have to make the opening real large, put a couple of stiffeners on the cover. Let us know how you make out.

Removing the box works but the access panel means you are good forever if the new pump ever fails again.

 

[Ole Buck]

Been there done it. You really don't need to pull the entire bed. Remove the bed bolts from the drivers side of the bed, loose up the passenger side but do not remove, just a few turns of the bolt to keep the threads intact. take out tail lights . Remove the filler neck from the side of the bed. Jack up that side and brace it good. Go now to the parts house and rent a an OEM fuel pump retainer ring remover. Soak that retainer ring that's already on the pump in some PB Blaster. Sometimes the hoses can be a PITA. I was doing this by myself so removing the entire bed was not an option for me. If I had the extra hands, absolutely I would have removed the entire bed.

 

[THRobinson]

ring removeer? didn't knwo one existed. All the vids I saw they just hammered on it with a chisel or big flat screwdriver. I do plan on soaking it in PB Blaster though... I plan to go out one or two times a day and spray the bolts every day for a few days before trying to loosen them.

 

[Dean2]

ring removeer? didn't knwo one existed. All the vids I saw they just hammered on it with a chisel or big flat screwdriver. I do plan on soaking it in PB Blaster though... I plan to go out one or two times a day and spray the bolts every day for a few days before trying to loosen them.

Get the ring remover, if you mess up the ring or its mating service your tank is pretty much pooched. Even the rings have become hard to find.

 

[Ole Buck]

https://www.amazon.com/Senders-Removal-Compatible-Replacement-Equivalent/dp/B07G8YJXGL/ref=asc_df_B07G8YJXGL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416650478316&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9006465363489233011&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012982&hvtargid=pla-883559177943&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=93124985039&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416650478316&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9006465363489233011&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012982&hvtargid=pla-883559177943

 

[FabricGATOR]

How about lowering the tank out from under the truck? We do that all the time. Especially on vans. Floor jack and a length of 2 x 8

AutoZone lend a tool program is free (with credit card or cash deposit) They have a pump module lock ring kit. I think Oriley too.

 

[FabricGATOR]

A member either here or dodgeforum had a rustbelt truck where the tank side of the locking ring was rusted away. They detailed installing a tank saver kit.

Keep that in your memory bank just in case

 

[GTyankee]

With all the rust that you described, i would lift the bed

I have seen way too many Tank Straps & bolts that were all but rusted through

When lifting the bed, trapping wires & hoses between the tank & the trucks frame, is not likely to happen

Good Luck, be safe

 

[rzr6-4]

Sadly after this, the manifold gasket is pooched on the right said as well. Sounds like a Harley.

You're lucky, mine sounded like the worlds largest type writer. TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK

 

[THRobinson]

You're lucky, mine sounded like the worlds largest type writer. TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK

Mine sounds like a wet fart from a fat man

 

[greg mayrhofer]

I am going to change my fuel pump next spring,I have done many before a few other makes, plus my old 2002 dodge ram. for me i found it better to raise the rear end up and drop the tank,today all tanks are hard molded plastic,plus gives me a chance to inspect the wiring etc and the ease of full access to remove the locking ring etc. but yes the bed method works just as good. Just wish they had put in place a access panel in the bed to remove the pump, many mini vans have this panel, minutes to replace

 

[Dusty]

I replaced the fuel pump on my 1996 3 years ago, no issues with bolts, straps etc and my area uses lots of salt too. If I was going to put an access door in, and I think all vehicles should have one along with a proper drain Bu$ng (can't beieve that is censored) on the bottom of the tank, I would do it right. Cut out the floor metal giving yourself lots of working room, then replace with heavy gauge steel that overlaps the opening and screw it in place. If you have to make the opening real large, put a couple of stiffeners on the cover. Let us know how you make out.

Removing the box works but the access panel means you are good forever if the new pump ever fails again.

Because it was in the middle of winter and he needed to plow ASAP, my older son cut a hole in the box floor on his '07. It was a lot easier than lifting the box.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 94111 miles.

 

[THRobinson]

Yikes....

Finally had some time to climb under and have a look, and I think my worry about the straps is too late. Back tank strap has an 8" section missing on the side of the tank.