Good solid brake rotors?

[HEMIMANN]

I think that depends on the trailer you are pulling, surge brakes, or electric? How often do you tow, where, flatlands or a lot of hills? The balance is between brake performance and brake lifetime.

The vehicle tow and payload rating match the vehicle's brakes from the factory. On my 2013 Laramie, I had the Power Stop daily driver brakes but still towed my boat, 5K, and my utility trailer with tractor on it, about 7.2K. The utility trailer had electric brakes and the boat surge brakes. Didn't have an issue stopping either.

My 2015 3500, Power Stop only offers a single solution at the time and I can tell you, they are awesome brakes and seem to be wearing very well. The 3500 typically tows our 40-foot Montana RV coming in at 16K and I have a 16-foot dump trailer with a maximum GVW of 15K.

Looks like you are in the towing abilities of a 2500 and I think Power Stop now offers multi solutions. Back when I replaced my brakes, they only offered the Z36, now I see they have broadened their offerings. The more aggressive the braking, like the Z36, the shorter the lifetime. If I were to choose today, I would likely opt for the Z23 solution.

I don't want to exclude other manufacturers but I only have first-hand experience with Power Stop.

Electric (magnetic) brakes, so maybe solid coated rotors are sufficient? I tow the 7.2k# trailer up and down the hills of the unglaciated ("driftless") regions of the upper midwest - NW Wisconsin.

 

[HarryHL]

PowerStop are the best. The best braking system I’ve ever had.
If you have any serious questions, call or technical support. Leave it to them to answer your questions.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I would kindly disagree to an extent. Rotor materials have changed, however basic principles still apply. Drilled rotors have a much high rate of cracking and I’ve had some do it due to the drilling process. The benefits of course are high performance cooling and outgassing (newer pad compounds don’t outgas nearly as much) so they are mainly for cooling. Slots offer some cooling. But more for outgassing and a cleaner pad to rotor contact area. By removing rotor surface you reduce the contact of the pad to the rotor which will reduce performance if all else is the same. Usually on performance rotors you will run more aggressive pads which makes most of this a wash as it wears faster making longevity less of an issue. I have never had a rotors warp on me and I also don’t drive my truck hard regularly. Sure I will have the bed full, have an engine and trans in the bed once in a while or tow a sMall trailer but I commute a drive regularly. Unless the brakes are being beat on regularly neither option is necessary given the reduced life and earlier failure rate on the drilled rotors. You can run an aggressive pad on a solid rotor and I bet the braking would be better than a drilled and slotted rotor but the chances of overheating and wearing that rotor out increase. Ceramic pads also aren’t the best but they are generally quieter and dust less than organic or semi metallic but has higher temp threshold. You also need to build sufficient heat for most performance pads to work efficiently. Which means u loose braking on normal driving when you aren’t on them a lot or driving hard. I have to build up heat in my firebird with Baer brakes which have hawks performance ceramic pads and drilled/slotted rotors before braking noticeably improves this is something I don’t really have to do in my truck.

Thank you for weighing in. After many years before ceramic pads were available, I hated the semi-metallic pads because of their squealing (now that I can't hear high frequencies anymore, it wouldn't matter as much) & rapid rotor wear. Prior to those, the only pads were asbestos, of course.

When ceramic pads came out, I loved them. They may not have quite as much frictional stopping power as the prior materials, but boy are they quiet, last a long time, and don't heat-fade (liquify). Pretty sure that's what comes stock, along with the solid rotors. Stopping power seems adequate, I just keep hearing how much "better" Power Stop drilled and slotted is, along with ceramic mixed with carbon fiber pads. Well, sure they stop better. Race cars use this architecture. But race cars don't go 50,000 miles between expected brake overhauls.

So, I'm looking for the optimal selection for my particular application and usage - not just a general brake discussion. It's not even a matter of cost, since brake overhauls are done only occasionally.

 

[blackbetty14]

PowerStop are the best. The best braking system I’ve ever had.
If you have any serious questions, call or technical support. Leave it to them to answer your questions.

They are not a real Performance brake system. Pads and rotors are matched to optimize a OE setup sure but they are a stock style replacement type brand. U can get rotors, pads and a Stock powder coated caliper and that’s about it. True brake system specialists will offer upgrades like multi piston calipers, larger brake rotors and brackets like BAER and Willwood. Let’s face it our stock 4th gens brakes have nothing on the 5th gens that use bigger setups and I would swap to a 14” rotor before going to drilled and slotted stock setup.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Excepting the Gen IV Heavy Duty Trucks, which I have. Massive brakes and rear axle. And frame. Bigger than my son's Ford Super Duty.

 

[Regcabguy]

Also, because of “supply chain issues” I’ll toss out Power Stop brakes. I don’t believe the rotors are solid like you want, but again this brand enjoys a solid rep on the forum.

They work great on my '07 Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins. Bedding them in properly is crucial.

 

[djnelson5460]

Ive used Raybestos coated rotors and hybrid pads bought through Rockauto.com and they were both very affordable and brake very well, theres very little to barely noticable dust on the wheels too

 

[Shawn Burns]

Do Powerstop rotors wear out significantly faster due to less frictional surface area from holes and slots?

I'm about 2/3 of the way to change. Powerstop also pushes changing out calipers to theirs for some reason short of more sales.

I know these are slotted and drilled, but they have been great. I've had them since about 20k miles and I am just shy of 50k now. My last yearly inspection, the mechanic asked if I use the brakes. I am a motorcycle track day coach and I practice trail braking even in my RAM and I tow quite a bit. I am very happy with the performance and durability of these brakes. I also use some really nice DOT 4 fluid that is likely overkill.

 

[blackbetty14]

Thank you for weighing in. After many years before ceramic pads were available, I hated the semi-metallic pads because of their squealing (now that I can't hear high frequencies anymore, it wouldn't matter as much) & rapid rotor wear. Prior to those, the only pads were asbestos, of course.

When ceramic pads came out, I loved them. They may not have quite as much frictional stopping power as the prior materials, but boy are they quiet, last a long time, and don't heat-fade (liquify). Pretty sure that's what comes stock, along with the solid rotors. Stopping power seems adequate, I just keep hearing how much "better" Power Stop drilled and slotted is, along with ceramic mixed with carbon fiber pads. Well, sure they stop better. Race cars use this architecture. But race cars don't go 50,000 miles between expected brake overhauls.

So, I'm looking for the optimal selection for my particular application and usage - not just a general brake discussion. It's not even a matter of cost, since brake overhauls are done only occasionally.

Agreed, I thought stock was semi metallic but I’ve also heard ceramic. Every ceramic pad I’ve run squeals. My stock truck pads just started making noise around 42k and they have never been off or disassembled.

If I were you I would look into carbon metallic pads by performance friction.

 

[blackbetty14]

Ordered the Wagner premium coated rotors. I’ve had the pads and the rotors will be here tmrw or Wed I believe. Then I just need a nice day to swap it all out. I’m going to touch up the calipers and lube anything that needs to get lubed.

 

[JKLines]

I've been very pleased with Power Stop on past vehicles. Haven't upgraded my 2022 3500 yet.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Also, because of “supply chain issues” I’ll toss out Power Stop brakes. I don’t believe the rotors are solid like you want, but again this brand enjoys a solid rep on the forum.

I just upgraded to the Power Stop Z36 kit without the calipers and you can definitely tell the difference ..

I run 20x12 on 37 nitto ridge grapplers and the weight is pretty high ... the oem brakes would struggle to stop my truck .... now with the z36 kit man I can stop on a dime lol ....

+1 on the powerstops! They bring my truck to a halt!! Would buy again.

View attachment 494195

Oh yeah !!! My truck is even more fun to drive now, I can stop the truck now lol

 

[BossHogg]

I would kindly disagree to an extent. Rotor materials have changed, however basic principles still apply. Drilled rotors have a much high rate of cracking and I’ve had some do it due to the drilling process.

I'm not a metallurgist, far from it but I am educated enough to research and I am able to discount fake/false or misleading marketing information. In my process, of understanding braking materials, I discovered an amazing amount of credible information that has so far proven true, in my use case.

When you say "basic principles still apply" and "much higher rate of cracking" and "I've had some do it", can you be more specific? You sound as if you have a strong background in metal sciences.

I've never had any rotor fail, and the Power Stops on my 3500 see some significant severe duty. Are you suggesting I will, or I may see rotor failure? When I was looking for a braking solution, I called Power Stop and they spend a good bit of time with me talking about all things brakes, and how their rotors and pads are formulated and formulated to work together. I specifically asked them if rotor cracking would be an issue, I told them in my research I found many references to rotor cracking. This is where "old school" thought and Internet stories came into the conversation.

What are the basic principles that cause a rotor to fracture or crack from a drilled hole? What conditions cause this, I'm thinking constant high heat exposure, like what a race car may see but not our on-the-road tow vehicles. Do you think current metal compounds have overcome the fracturing?

A higher rate of cracking is with respect to what?

The rotors that you have had failure experience with, what were the usage conditions? Were the rotors used outside their design intentions? The rotor failures, current failures and if so, what brands?

I'm thinking your observations are more from the context of high-performance vehicles and not from the daily drivers (which was the original context of the thread) and towing big RV's through the mountains.

Brakes are an item we don't address that often because brakes last most of us several years. I forget a lot of the details in between the brake changes and I realize that technological advances can be accumulated in those few years offering yet a better product with new and varying attributes.

 

[2020PW]

If you want the very best get ceramic rotors.

 

[Wild one]

If you want the very best get ceramic rotors.

Do you mean carbon fibre- ceramic rotors?

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[Mike Townsend]

I have the R1 Concept Geomet rotors on my truck and I love them. I put carbon-ceramic pads on also. Besides the truck stopping better the rotors never show any surface rust. I have power stop pads on my HC and they work well also. Maybe not as good as the Brembo pads but way less dust.

 

[Tray Burge]

Do you mean carbon fibre- ceramic rotors?

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This article mentions price for a carbon-ceramic brake set-up,and it'll scare you,lol.

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Definitely the best in stopping for sure, but the black dust is unbearable to say the least.
I have ceramic blended pads with Power Stop slotted and dimpled rotors and she stops on a dime.
Carbon fiber blend were better, but the ceramic pads are next best with almost zero dust.

 

[huntergreen]

Do Powerstop rotors wear out significantly faster due to less frictional surface area from holes and slots?

I'm about 2/3 of the way to change. Powerstop also pushes changing out calipers to theirs for some reason short of more sales.

That’s a question I would ask you ! Lol. Don’t know, less friction but less heat, in theory. Does less heat extend brake life ?

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

What is the Wagner e-coated rotor part number for 2012 Dodge Ram Outdoorsman?

 

[HEMIMANN]

That’s a question I would ask you ! Lol. Don’t know, less friction but less heat, in theory. Does less heat extend brake life ?

Depends how high the heat goes. If enough to temper or soften the ferrous alloy, then yes. Austempering temperature of carbon-alloyed iron matrix is 1,333 degrees F.

It's more complex than this, which is why I was looking for field experiences - usually @Wild one knows. Different friction pads have different liquification temperatures. Liquification causes brake fade - i.e. - puts a layer of liquid between the pad and rotor at high speed. When you hit the brakes, ain't nobody home. Experienced that once - cooled my a$$ right off after flying through a one way stop sign at naughty speed.

Anyway, carbon fiber ceramic is most resistant to heat fade (hard / high speed braking) so would produce faster wear on high speed and heavy loaded vehicles. I like ceramic, myself. Remember, the heat generated is directly proportional to the friction imparted = stopping "power".