Help Needed!!! 13 swap into 09

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jotin

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Can you elaborate a little? I thought the Eagle long blocks/trans are the same as long as it's not the 8 speed model (This one is not). Understand power steering and alternator are different but will swap mine or use new. Coils and ignition system are the same. Trying to dig up more info about other sensors and solonoids... As long as they can be swapped or plugged into my 09 harness, we are golden...

The biggest thing is going to be figuring out whether the tone wheels on the cam and crank are the same between the 2009 and 2013. Now also you have to remember the 2009 engine harness is different because it uses a different generation PCM. I believe the 2013 PCM only uses two connectors and the 2009 uses four. So a simple drop in with the new engine is going to be a bit harder than what you may think. As far as the sensors goes, I’m not sure exactly which ones are different, but I’m sure there will be some differences in the harness. I believe also the 2013 is equipped with the fuel rail pressure sensor that the 2009 is not equipped with.So there is a big generational gap between the 2009 and the 2013. Now the engine itself and the transmission is basically identical but like I said your biggest thing is whether the cam and crank tone wheels are the same because there was a model year change between the hammy is that change those. It’s like trying to swap a 6.4 L into a car with a 6.1. Yes the engine bolts in along with the transmission but the engine will not run because of the differences in Cam and crank wheel.


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chrisp2493

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I thought the crank tone wheel only changed once in 2009? From the 02-08 32 tooth to a 09+ 52 or so tooth? I wasn’t aware there are 3 different tone wheels?

Edit: 58 tooth count for 09+

I Bleed Ram Trucks
 
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Jared Worley

Jared Worley

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Let's keep discussion going as it should be helpful to other members. I'm working on a spreadsheet with part numbers for key sensors and bits. Should have new 58 tooth found in all 5.7 09+ eagle engines. I noticed the crankshaft position sensor has a different part number. Not sure about compatibility but easy swap.

Not impossible to use the new harness but we won't be doing that here as I don't have the full truck harness to go with the engine harness and would be way more trouble than it is worth. I am trying to use as many of the bolt ons as possible...
 
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jotin

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I thought the crank tone wheel only changed once in 2009? From the 02-08 32 tooth to a 09+ 52 or so tooth? I wasn’t aware there are 3 different tone wheels?


I Bleed Ram Trucks

You may be right, that’s why I’d pull the timing cover and verify the timing gears.


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Saltillo Express

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Interesting scenario. I think you're asking for trouble with option 1. As your post mentions, you've got the wiring harness issue, the 2 to 4 wheel drive, and other routing (exhaust) issues that could show up. And it's not only the issues but the time suck to figure them out. I like option 5 hands down the best. The advantage is you keep the original engine in the truck. No wiring harness nonsense. And you may pull it down and the crank and everything will be fine and all you have to do is the top end. And heck since your replacing the cam anyway - get a hotter cam for it. There are machine shops that could turn that motor around for you fairly quick I would think. FWIW I don't think 170K is that high for mileage. I know 2 guys at my dealership that are north of 300k on the their gen 3 hemi. Keep us posted man.
 
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Jared Worley

Jared Worley

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Here is what is confirmed so far.

Harness, PCM, Transfer Case, 4wd, Alternator, Compressor (tbd) will be sold on epay, CL or Forums. I'm getting 4wd dual exhaust that I figured on chopping up to mate to headers (Free) bunch of other stuff I don't need like the fuel tank and maybe even suspension...

Main motivators are near new block and trans and opportunity to work on it before turning the swap over to the shop (already have my truck). I'm going to keep known good lifters and swap into bad engine once I have it. This will either be a spare, a modified (cam), or sold with the refresh to recoup cost. (note budget theme).

Blocks and Trans are the same (think Long block). Swapping transfer case for tail housing is all that it takes (refurbed for 100 bucks with new seal and race) Coils are the same, Cam Pos. Sensor is the Same, Water Pump is the Same, Intake Manifold has different part numbers but are both active runners, use the same actuator for the intake runners and look identical according to lkq pics...Fuel Rails/Injectors are the same still researching so any additions are welcome.
 
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Jared Worley

Jared Worley

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There is debate on the torque converter. Some trans places say the 545rfe converter will work in the 645rfe and others say no. I know it was supposed to be a better stock converter but I presumed that they are interchangeable as the bolt patterns/splines are the same. Thinking about swapping during the engine swap since it will be the easiest time.
 
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Jared Worley

Jared Worley

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There is debate on the torque converter. Some trans places say the 545rfe converter will work in the 645rfe and others say no. I know it was supposed to be a better stock converter but I presumed that they are interchangeable as the bolt patterns/splines are the same. Thinking about swapping during the engine swap since it will be the easiest time.
That should say 65rfe
 

lowcomet

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Just wanted to let folks know that this was very doable. I now have 20k on the swap with no issues. Happy to answer any questions if you decide to embark on this journey.
I'm looking at doing a 6.2 swap in a 2012. So similar instance. Although the crank tone wheels are technically different, in my case as they were yours. Were you able to use your original crank sensor and keep the PCM happy?
 
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