Help needed, lower ball joints.

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lucemsequimur

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Well I've had some major problems with a grinding/squeaking noise when steering and going over bumps, and I've diagnosed it as being my lower ball joints, 100% without a doubt. Crap tons of play in them. So, I've ordered some new, Moog ones. I don't have a very good idea of how to install these. I hear mixed things like, oh, you'll need a ball joint press... Why would I need a ball joint press if all taking out the ball joint requires is grinding off the heads of the four rivets and hammering them out? What all do I really need for this job? I drive a 2WD 2001 1500, and I'm very confused about how to do this. I've read everywhere and it always seems that people either have a 4WD or a year way earlier than 2001, making their help useless for my situation.
 

82Crew

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If it is riveted then you will not need a press. There should be you tube videos how to do it.
 
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lucemsequimur

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Alright, will I need any kind of specialized tools for removing the wheel and everything to get to the joint? I appreciate you guys helping me.
 

NYCruiser

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Maybe just a ball joint splitter to get the knuckle out of the way. If I were you I would plan on doing the upper also once you have it apart.
 
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lucemsequimur

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Well i can tell that the lower ball joint has a lot of play, but that didn't seem to be the case for the upper. This truck has 117k miles on it, should I really just change out the upper too while I'm at it? Do any of you know a list of tools I'm going to need without a doubt? I have some air tools, air rotary grinder, a ton of wrenches, but I don't have any specialty tools like torque wrenches.
 

82Crew

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It is always a good idea to replace both ball joints if you are going to be that far apart. Can't think of anything special you would need except for maybe some cotters pins.
 
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lucemsequimur

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Well my lower ball joints came today (well at least one, the other comes tomorrow for some stupid reason). My current plan is to replace the lowers this weekend, and if the uppers seem really worn then I'll think about tackling them in the next couple of months. I bought some jack stands and a decent torque wrench because I don't trust myself that much as far as tightening stuff close to specs without assistance. It's interesting what the Moog instruction guide says, it claims that they MUST be installed by a certified mechanic, it says to never use a hammer on the steering knuckle to remove it from the ball joint studs, and it says you should use special tools to remove the ball joint studs and tie rod studs from the steering knuckle. I call BS, if I'm gentle and not stupid I don't see why I can't unbolt them and gently hammer them out. That's what everyone else I've talked to told me to do.
 

Merc225hp

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If you do one ball joint change them all, you don't want to do this work twice. Yes there are special tools needed, a splitting fork is one. There are things you can hit with a BFH and things you should not. Hammering on the TRE stud is not a good idea ever.

You can download the FSM here on RF for free and it has all the info you could ever need in it.

http://www.ramforum.com/f77/2nd_gen_service_manual-986/
 
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lucemsequimur

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If you do one ball joint change them all, you don't want to do this work twice. Yes there are special tools needed, a splitting fork is one. There are things you can hit with a BFH and things you should not. Hammering on the TRE stud is not a good idea ever.

You can download the FSM here on RF for free and it has all the info you could ever need in it.

http://www.ramforum.com/f77/2nd_gen_service_manual-986/
I agree with you. The issue is that I'm having trouble convincing my dad to order the upper joints as well. I'm 17, and though I've been looking for a job, I don't have enough money to order it. I see the point about the tre stud, I know my tie rods are good and I don't want to screw things up. A guy in a Facebook group told me that since I have an air hammer and a cutting tool, it'll make the rivets a lot easier. He told me that I need to simply cut an 'X' in the rivet heads, and hammer them out with the air hammer, and he said it'll make it super easy compared to grinding and drilling and hammering the hell out of them.

As a little side story, instead of dealing with ball joints this weekend, I replaced my heater core and dash top (ordered a DRD8-1 dash top from Geno's garage). I can say, it was quite a big job, especially for me; the most I've ever done before is replace my shocks. I managed to do it without draining freon, without disconnecting my A/C lines, and without draining any more coolant than just what was in my radiator. Quite an interesting experience... I never disconnected my shifter linkage so my truck actually shifted into gear at one point while removing the dash... Keep in mind that I had disconnected my parking brake lever. Hadn't thought to put some bricks in front of my tires. The truck started rolling forward, and I managed to stop it about two feet before the front bumper would have rammed into our boat's trailer hitch in my garage (I had it parked about five feet outside of the garage door). Called my mom on my phone while holding the truck, pushing hard, and had her hold it while I grabbed some bricks. Pretty terrifying. There were several times during the job where I totally felt defeated and wanted to give up but knew I couldn't. The way I got the heater core in without disconnecting the a/c was by literally pushing the A/C lines about four inches into the firewall to get the HVAC housing to come undone enough to get the heater core to fit. Just barely got the heater core in, and it didn't have swiveling lines. After assembling everything, my A/C didn't work. I spent a while trying to figure out why, and then my motor wouldn't start... Turned out to be that the main connector under the dash hadn't been tightened enough. After that everything worked. Check engine light was on though, code P0443, which had to do with the evaporative emissions thingy, so I wiggled the connections on the solenoid/pump or whatever it is, and made sure my gas cap was tight. After that it went away. So yeah, that was my weekend. Stressful, but fun occasionally. Big learning experience. Now I have hot heat that doesn't smell like coolant, and a dash that isn't cracked. Still need a new bezel though.
 
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lucemsequimur

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The upper joints were definitely worn out, so we quickly picked up some replacements from autozone. Not Moog, but they have grease fittings and a lifetime warranty, which is good enough for me. The rivets are proving to be quite a challenge, I'll more than likely only get the driver's side done this weekend.
 
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