Help with subs - Ground Zero amp

[mjscharlotte]

 

[mjscharlotte]

works for me

Thats weird - I click on the link and this is what it says. I have even tried to just put it in Google and it still doesn't work.

 

[Gixxer750]

I've looked into a rear underseat box for my RAM; best I can find are for dual 10s. Just not enough room for 12s and be able to still have a low end extension.

Currently I have a single 10" sub at 500w in a sealed box. It does well considering the limitation but anything below about 50hz just isn't there.

That made me think of a little phenomina I noticed if you try to record while being (close enough) 2' from a couple of p3 12s. I call it the audio black hole. The subs just want the power so much the will suck it right out of the air lol.
The microphone on the phone can't pick up sound over and below specific db ranges so this is what you get sounds like somebody playing with the volume when the speakers push

 

[mjscharlotte]

Hey Tech. guys,

I am buying all the equipment this weekend for my audio system
- Sounddesign 800.4 for the doors and dash speakers
- Soundesign 1600.1d for the (2) 10" sub under the rear seat in a Qpower box
- Sundown SD4 shallow mount subs (2)
- Ground Zero GZCM 6.5N - PRO for the front doors
- Ground Zero GZCK 165xspl for the rear doors
- Ground Zero GZCT 25SQL for the dash corners
** I'm leaving the center channel and the overhead speakers factory.

My question is based on that list - should I use 1ohm or 2ohm and does it make a difference in performance or is it just so that the amp matches the speakers.

Thanks.

 

[89grand]

Hey Tech. guys,

I am buying all the equipment this weekend for my audio system
- Sounddesign 800.4 for the doors and dash speakers
- Soundesign 1600.1d for the (2) 10" sub under the rear seat in a Qpower box
- Sundown SD4 shallow mount subs (2)
- Ground Zero GZCM 6.5N - PRO for the front doors
- Ground Zero GZCK 165xspl for the rear doors
- Ground Zero GZCT 25SQL for the dash corners
** I'm leaving the center channel and the overhead speakers factory.

My question is based on that list - should I use 1ohm or 2ohm and does it make a difference in performance or is it just so that the amp matches the speakers.

Thanks.

Are you just going for high SPL?

For sound quality as a primary concern, I personally wouldn't be using those speakers. They are basically pro sound drivers, the 6.5's will have high output, but limited midbass, and that tweeter should be very loud...but that's about all I can say about it.

The rated specs on the Sounddigital 800.4 amp according to their website don't make any sense.

 

[mjscharlotte]

Are you just going for high SPL?

For sound quality as a primary concern, I personally wouldn't be using those speakers. They are basically pro sound drivers, the 6.5's will have high output, but limited midbass, and that tweeter should be very loud...but that's about all I can say about it.

The rated specs on the Sounddigital 800.4 amp according to their website don't make any sense.

Why do you say that the amp specs don't make sense - what doesn't make sense about it? What's your opinion on why these won't sound good? Is it something in their description or have you heard them or know someone who has? I listened to them a few weeks ago and they seemed good - but I wasn't turning the volume up really loud either.

 

[89grand]

Why do you say that the amp specs don't make sense - what doesn't make sense about it? What's your opinion on why these won't sound good? Is it something in their description or have you heard them or know someone who has? I listened to them a few weeks ago and they seemed good - but I wasn't turning the volume up really loud either.

Do they sell 2 versions of the 800.4, one called a 2 ohm and one called a 4 ohm? If so, while odd, that would make the specs make more sense. It's unclear to me if they make two different 800.4's or not.

The speakers are pro audio speakers, they are really meant for PA systems or the like. Some people use these types of drivers in a car, when sheer volume is their main concern, as they have high sensitivity, but not good frequency response, and bass response is usually lacking. It's a byproduct of their high sensitivity. One might use these if they had a SPL vehicle with a wall of subwoofers, so the vocals and highs could sort of keep up with the bass, but they don't sound all that great. The door mids for example are only rated down to 150hz, but you'd want good response to at least 80hz or lower.

A typical speaker used in a car will have lower sensitivity, but much better frequency response, so I'd definitely look to more traditional speakers for use in the truck where frequency response and sound quality are of more use than just high sensitivity. Those tweeters would probably take your head off in the dash. Super loud, but you don't need that. Your two subwoofers would not have the output to keep up with these drivers either.

While I have not heard these exact speakers, I've heard similar ones. Pro audio drivers have limited use in a normal vehicle. They may sell them for auto use, but they really weren't designed for it. I'm just trying to give you advice. I'd hate to see you buy all of this, install it, then not like they way it sounds. Trust me, normal speakers will get plenty loud enough with the amps you're looking at, and sound a lot better as well.

 

[Dr. Righteous]

My Son will be 16 next spring and we are giving him the wife's '14 Jeep Compass to him. Nice safe vehicle so the wifey is happy with that. What she done not know is that I have 2 12" subs I have been saving for a system for him. He is a smart kid and loves good old progressive rock just like I did. So he will be driving around jamming to Rush , Yes, Kansas, like I did when I was 16.
To heck with scientists and laboratories. I produced a clone of myself the old fashion way.