Hemi Tick??

[metalfarm]

So I have a 2014 Ram 1500 with Hemi 5.7. 45,000 miles.
Sometimes on start up it ticks. Some times it can be fairly loud. It only lasts a few seconds. The tick happens spiratically. Can't predict when it will or when it wont.
Sounds to me like lifters sticking but i'm no mechanic.
I thought it was more of a cold start thing but today it was 86 degrees when I started it and it was the worst I've ever heard it.
Took it to the dealer while still under full warantee they said it was "hemi tick" and theres nothing wrong with it. From the research I've done the "Hemi Tick" remains constant. Mine goes away after a few seconds so wouldn't this be a different problem?
They suggested I put in some oil addative that is only sold at dealerships.
I'm running Mobile One Extended Performance. Can't remember what weight (whatever the fill cap said to use). It seems to happen less after a fresh oil change. Currently has 4600 on this oil change. Is the tick an indication I need to change my oil? Shouldn't I be able to get much more than 4600 miles out of Mobil 1 Extended??

Anyone familiar with this sound? Is it indeed normal? Doesn't sound normal to me.
Thanks in advance.

 

[SyN]

Metalfarm: First Off--->Welcome!




It does Extremely Suck that the Dealership has Zero Solutions for your problem.

I assume you are running 5W-20! M1 EP is an Outstanding Oil. M1 EP has shown through hundreds of UOA to be in fine shape well beyond 8K miles.

There are many suggestions out there of what the lifter tick might actually be or caused by. The one that intrigues me is the depressurizing of the MDS lifters while the 5.7L is off for a period of time. I have really No Idea what casues it so I will not spew out false info. I have seen video of the Tick only lasting for a few seconds and then the horrid ones that lasting until the motor is warmed up. Then the ones that tick forever.

NO! The tick does not dictate the condition of your Oil! That is the OLM Job.

My first question is What Oil Filter are you running?

My next question is Would be apposed to thinking about trying a 5W-30?

Not saying any of these 2 items are related to your issue.

One more thing! Brace yourself for Many Possible Solutions! Hopefully a couple of them will quiet some what---> that friggin Tick.

There will be others chime in pretty quick-->Telling you their story and how they stopped or quieted their hemi tick.

If you have time? Private Message Burla: He will share his story.

 

[RodRam]

First there are many guys with several different kinds of hemi noises that all end up being bunched into one thing they all call the hemi tick. Some swear a expensive redline oil change fixed theirs and that's good for whatever tick they had or whatever it was. but I have a tapping sound that goes away after my truck fully warms up and no oil or filter has ever made one bit of difference it it. However neither of these ticks is what you describe. if your ticking is as you say the fast ticking that's gone in a few seconds then Your tick is not relative to the oil or filter you use. What causes it is the motor under certain circumstances when shut off sucks the filter dry and the next time you start it the oil takes a few seconds to flow back in, some say its caused by the MDS but ive never found proof of it. A few things will help but you cant fix it. A better flowing oil filter like a fram ultra , wix xp even a royal purple flow better than mopars and most others, it doesn't matter what oil you have 5-20, 5-30 it will still happen, If your hemi has the fast tick now and then you are fine its just an annoyance but its brought on by doing a certain thing, Anyone who want to test it go ahead, I can tell when mine will do it now that I know. If your motor is cold from overnight or from sitting for several hours and you crank it and don't let it warm up to full temp say 5 minutes or so running and then you shut it off for a little while say 10 minutes or longer, 9 times out of 10 next start will tick. I found out by moving my truck around the job site, when cold and I have to move it a block or so and shut it off it ticks on the next start almost like clock work. And its happened with every filter and grades and brands of oil. A good flowing filter justs makes it go away faster.

 

[Burla]

PM sent, don't let a hack take any tool away from you that has had good luck in fixing exactly what you have going on. Especially when that person never tried it himself. Do research on Redline and Quiet engine. But it is equally likely your tick is exhaust bolt related, rule that out before dumping oil. If you choose to try Redline post whether it works or doesn't work, maybe help someone else decide that faces the same crap. So far it has helped many many more guys then it hasn't. No guarantees, it wont help everyone who tries it. Whether it does or not, you will have real good oil in there.

Like this.

Redline Oil is basically the only time tested synthetic oil on the market (motul is a close second), everything else is just ground oil. Redline comes from a reaction between and alcohol and an acid, there is no ground oil in esters. Group 5 = esters. They are the only oil that is polar, the molecules hunt metal and don't break dwon with heat like ground oil. And it has the highest concentration of oil soluble Moly available. The only ***** is the price, it even ****** me off these days. But I'd rather pay 100 bucks then listen to hemi tick.

 

[kg93]

My "hemi tick" sounded like a sewing machine, the lifters tapping. It would happen hot or cold.

yours sounds more like an exhaust leak

 

[RodRam]

PM sent, don't let a hack take any tool away from you that has had good luck in fixing exactly what you have going on. Especially when that person never tried it himself. Do research on Redline and Quiet engine. But it is equally likely your tick is exhaust bolt related, rule that out before dumping oil. If you choose to try Redline post whether it works or doesn't work, maybe help someone else decide that faces the same crap. So far it has helped many many more guys then it hasn't. No guarantees, it wont help everyone who tries it. Whether it does or not, you will have real good oil in there.

Like this.

Redline Oil is basically the only time tested synthetic oil on the market (motul is a close second), everything else is just ground oil. Redline comes from a reaction between and alcohol and an acid, there is no ground oil in esters. Group 5 = esters. They are the only oil that is polar, the molecules hunt metal and don't break dwon with heat like ground oil. And it has the highest concentration of oil soluble Moly available. The only ***** is the price, it even ****** me off these days. But I'd rather pay 100 bucks then listen to hemi tick.

'Every one but the mighty "Burla" is a HACK when it comes to oil.... heard it before in his many rants. If your truck is out of warranty and you got a extra 100 bucks then by all means follow his lead, but if you are still under warranty then What he did not bother to tell you is Redline oil is not API certified nor does it have the MS6395 specification Chrysler requires to keep your warranty valid should you have a oil related issue. Those requirements are listed right in the owners manual. If Chrysler decides to deny you warranty because you choose to run a oil that doesn't have these requirements then your just F***ked . Could you fight them in court, how many thousands of dollars would that cost you? There is no Magic oil Truth is the thinner the oil the nosier a hemi is, the worst being Pennzoil platinum 5-20 imo so jumping to any thicker oil will quiet your motor, redline just happens to be thicker even in 5-20 than some 5-30's so it can quite down noise but so will any other good oil with close viscosity.

 

[Burla]

'Every one but the mighty "Burla" is a HACK when it comes to oil.... heard it before in his many rants, but What he did not bother to tell you is Redline oil is not API certified nor does it have the MS6395 specification Chrysler requires to keep your warranty valid should you have a oil related issue. Those requirements are listed right in the owners manual. If Chrysler decides to deny you warranty because you choose to run a oil that doesn't have these requirements then your just F***ked . Could you fight them in court, how many thousands of dollars would that cost you? There is no Magic oil Truth is the thinner the oil the nosier a hemi is, the worst being Pennzoil platinum 5-20 imo so jumping to any thicker oil will quiet your motor, redline just happens to be thicker even in 5-20 than some 5-30's so it can quite down noise but so will any other good oil with close viscosity.

Too funny, more is revealed about you everyday. One thing about Burla, he respects every oil out there and only is a proponent of guys doing some research before making a choice. In fact the only brands I don't prefer are the ones without Moly for the Ram anyhow. But for whatever reason you decided to develop a problem with Redline oil, regardless how many positive experiences happen on the board. Whenever anyone posts about it you try and discredit it. That is why I think you are a hack.

Redline is the same weight as other oils, it is just that heat doesn't break it down like ground oil. This is another great feature as you wont shear off viscosity like with most other oils.

He will attack either outright or passive aggressively any redline post, but no other oil. Agenda ridden hack.

 

[metalfarm]

My "hemi tick" sounded like a sewing machine, the lifters tapping. It would happen hot or cold.

yours sounds more like an exhaust leak

Dealer checked for exaust leaks and it came back clean. Mine sounds exactly like a sewing machine.

 

[metalfarm]

First there are many guys with several different kinds of hemi noises that all end up being bunched into one thing they all call the hemi tick. Some swear a expensive redline oil change fixed theirs and that's good for whatever tick they had or whatever it was. but I have a tapping sound that goes away after my truck fully warms up and no oil or filter has ever made one bit of difference it it. However neither of these ticks is what you describe. if your ticking is as you say the fast ticking that's gone in a few seconds then Your tick is not relative to the oil or filter you use. What causes it is the motor under certain circumstances when shut off sucks the filter dry and the next time you start it the oil takes a few seconds to flow back in, some say its caused by the MDS but ive never found proof of it. A few things will help but you cant fix it. A better flowing oil filter like a fram ultra , wix xp even a royal purple flow better than mopars and most others, it doesn't matter what oil you have 5-20, 5-30 it will still happen, If your hemi has the fast tick now and then you are fine its just an annoyance but its brought on by doing a certain thing, Anyone who want to test it go ahead, I can tell when mine will do it now that I know. If your motor is cold from overnight or from sitting for several hours and you crank it and don't let it warm up to full temp say 5 minutes or so running and then you shut it off for a little while say 10 minutes or longer, 9 times out of 10 next start will tick. I found out by moving my truck around the job site, when cold and I have to move it a block or so and shut it off it ticks on the next start almost like clock work. And its happened with every filter and grades and brands of oil. A good flowing filter justs makes it go away faster.

Wow. Now that you meantion it.... Last night I got home from a day on the Harley and moved the truck from the driveway to the garage. Took less than a minute. This morning it ticked more than it ever has. So your theory is correct in my case. I'll pay more attention to the not letting it get warm theory.

 

[Kotta390]

I've tried Mobil 1 and PP, and PUP 5w-20 and I get the same start up tick on a cold morning With my first two changes in Mobil 1. Then I switched to the pens oil synthetics and it made a small difference but noticeable in the least amount of start up ticking I get. I don't understand your claim against Pennzoil?

 

[JJP71584]

My "hemi tick" was an exhaust leak due to spotty exhaust manifold bolts, covered by warranty and repaired by dealer

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[SyN]

Pardon my ignorance on this matter of the manifold bolts but. I do remember reading that at some point and time Ram corrected this matter by changing these weak A$$ american made bolts.

Can someone tell me if Ram actually made the effort to do this? and what year?

 

[RodRam]

I've tried Mobil 1 and PP, and PUP 5w-20 and I get the same start up tick on a cold morning With my first two changes in Mobil 1. Then I switched to the pens oil synthetics and it made a small difference but noticeable in the least amount of start up ticking I get. I don't understand your claim against Pennzoil?

Pennzoil's process of converting natural gas to oil produces a thinner oil base than traditional hydrocracked oils like every other brand except the few true full synthetics. If you just look at the 5-20 PP you can see its very thin oil. If you used PP and PUP both of those are Gas to liquid GTL synthetic oils, ram ships filed with Pennzoil yellow bottle 5-20 which is not synthetic and its a thicker oil, If you go up to a 5-30 you will quiet down the sewing machine noise even more with a better flowing filter. If you want to stay with a 5-20 I would suggest you try a better flowing filter, that helped end my faint lifter noise on start ups. I tried many filters , fram ultra, royal purple, mobil1, fram tough guard, wix xp of all the wix xp flows the best imo and it ended the problem.,

 

[RodRam]

Pardon my ignorance on this matter of the manifold bolts but. I do remember reading that at some point and time Ram corrected this matter by changing these weak A$$ american made bolts.

Can someone tell me if Ram actually made the effort to do this? and what year?

Syn for whats its worth coming from a hack I contacted my dealer last week about my cold tap and he told me it could be exhaust related, I told him I thought that was only on the older rams and was surprised when he told me that he had newer models having the same issues along with a bad gasket issue that he would look for so I'm scheduling a trip to let him check it out.

 

[RodRam]

Too funny, more is revealed about you everyday. One thing about Burla, he respects every oil out there and only is a proponent of guys doing some research before making a choice. In fact the only brands I don't prefer are the ones without Moly for the Ram anyhow. But for whatever reason you decided to develop a problem with Redline oil, regardless how many positive experiences happen on the board. Whenever anyone posts about it you try and discredit it. That is why I think you are a hack.

Redline is the same weight as other oils, it is just that heat doesn't break it down like ground oil. This is another great feature as you wont shear off viscosity like with most other oils.

He will attack either outright or passive aggressively any redline post, but no other oil. Agenda ridden hack.

I have no agenda or allegiance to any oil or other product. Burla is a bully who rants and calls people names like homosexuals, *******,idiots , hacks and other all because some of us don't buy his BS or opinions. Rumor on the forum is he is a shill for Redline, who knows, but he does promote the use of redline oil endlessly regardless of the fact people could suffer if they had a warranty claim. Check for yourself just click on his name and read his endless push of redline products, youtube videos and more read his explosive rants for yourself on anyone who disagrees . Back to his post, Once again he doesn't address warranty concerns from using Redline that tells you he has no defense. Bottom line use of Redline oil will give Chrysler the right to deny your warranty claim on any oil related failure if they decide to do so.

 

[SyN]

Pardon my ignorance on this matter of the manifold bolts but. I do remember reading that at some point and time Ram corrected this matter by changing these weak A$$ american made bolts.

Can someone tell me if Ram actually made the effort to do this? and what year?

Thanks Rod! Steve {My Service Mgr & Close Friend} told me he didn't think the engineers where smart enough to fix the issue. As far as he knew it had not been fixed and he has made contact a couple times but he has little faith in them actually telling him the truth.

He told me the best thing I could do was and I have done this since new. Start from a cold engine. Drive it for 20 min or so get the Motor up to temp then pull it in the garage and let it cool down completely for 24 hours so. At least cool to the touch {Exhaust Manifold}.--->Complete Heat Cycle! Do this at least 6 times. I have done this Many Many times hoping to avoid this issue. Is this the answer? Probably Not and all Pi$$ing in the Wind. But It can't hurt. He did say: His dealership has had alot of hemis come in for this repair and he recommends this to all of them and none of them have come back so far. For All this is Worth? I have No Idea!

My other Question is: What the ****** He!! causes these bolts to break?

Time to enjoy these days off {They are Rare & Few}. Time to get the boat in the water and do some fishing & enjoy some cold Beers!

Later Gents!

 

[Burla]

I have no agenda or allegiance to any oil or other product. Burla is a bully who rants and calls people names like homosexuals, *******,idiots , hacks and other all because some of us don't buy his BS or opinions. Rumor on the forum is he is a shill for Redline, who knows, but he does promote the use of redline oil endlessly regardless of the fact people could suffer if they had a warranty claim. Check for yourself just click on his name and read his endless push of redline products, youtube videos and more read his explosive rants for yourself on anyone who disagrees . Back to his post, Once again he doesn't address warranty concerns from using Redline that tells you he has no defense. Bottom line use of Redline oil will give Chrysler the right to deny your warranty claim on any oil related failure if they decide to do so.

90% of Redline users become so called Shiils. They can't believe how quiet and butter smooth their engines run and like to share the info. Hacks that never tried it would rather just say NO YOU ARE ALL WRONG IT CAN'T BE TRUE, LOL. Rumor has it that you through tantrums when your buddies move to Redline. Go ahead call me a liar and we will see if we just can't get that email posted, you idiot, lol.

There have been people unhappy with Redline, mainly two guys who tried it and had no noticeable difference, and one person who tried it and actually gave him a tick. A real risk if you have an engine with many miles because redline will hyper clean it and it may clean away sludge that was helping keep it quiet. I have treated all of those experiences with respect. but that is not what the hack crew is doing. Just bashing a product for the sake of bashing it w/o any info or experience.

 

[Kotta390]

Pennzoil's process of converting natural gas to oil produces a thinner oil base than traditional hydrocracked oils like every other brand except the few true full synthetics. If you just look at the 5-20 PP you can see its very thin oil. If you used PP and PUP both of those are Gas to liquid GTL synthetic oils, ram ships filed with Pennzoil yellow bottle 5-20 which is not synthetic and its a thicker oil, If you go up to a 5-30 you will quiet down the sewing machine noise even more with a better flowing filter. If you want to stay with a 5-20 I would suggest you try a better flowing filter, that helped end my faint lifter noise on start ups. I tried many filters , fram ultra, royal purple, mobil1, fram tough guard, wix xp of all the wix xp flows the best imo and it ended the problem.,

I actually am changing to a Wix filter this time around but not an XP simply because I'm starting my OCI at 5000 miles instead of 7500. I thought the Wix XP had a 50% filtration at something like 25microns?

 

[Sir John]

I tried many filters , fram ultra, royal purple, mobil1, fram tough guard, wix xp of all the wix xp flows the best imo and it ended the problem.,

Nice. I just bought the Wix XP last weekend and I'm putting it in this coming weekend.

 

[sriley531]

I just did an oil change last week using the wix XP (the larger diameter model. It's a bit of a pain to get past the steering rack, but doable) and Penn platinum. Still got a little tick at first start, but quiets down pretty quick. As with anything though, "YMMV"...


Edit: A note about filters. I play with alot of old Buick muscle cars, and they (especially the 455's) are known for very lackluster oiling systems. They require extra attention to bearing clearances, oil weights, shimming oil pumps, etc etc to have good oil pressure in performance situations. Oil filters in the old Buick crowd are discussed as much or maybe even more that oil types are here. So a myself and a buddy bought a few of the most common off the shelf filter types and cut them open to see how the guts were constructed. Out if the basic filters (we didn't do a royal purple or a few others, but did ac delco, fram orange can, bosch, k&n, wix) the wix was noticeably better constructed than the others. Anti-drain back valves, springs, filter media, all seemed of higher quality. K&n was a close second. I now run wix on pretty much everything, though my Buick has a k&n because I got a case on sale for $2.00 a filter. But once those are gone, wix. I wouldn't put a fram on anything other than my worst enemys truck, though I don't know bout the tough guard, this was a basic fram. Anyway, just throwing it in as it my 2 cents. It only somewhat applies here, but never can have too much input imho.