How to eliminate tailgate weight?

[96JoesRam]

OK, so my So here's the prob: I want to lighten my tailgate. Took my drop in bedliner off the tailgate only to find no way to open it up and gut it. What in the WORLD makes these tailgates so heavy?! I can't really lift it with one hand to close it. The thing feels/sounds rock solid. Other truck tailgates are like maybe 20lbs and sound hollow inside. The other problem being that it appears the whole thing is welded closed. How are you supposed to open it up?
My entire intention is purely to ditch the weight for acceleration purposes. I'm not looking for an assist. I want the weight completely GONE. I still need a tailgate I can walk on and provide weathertightness/privacy (that means no removing completely or tailgate netting. I just want it to weigh what it should and not like a solid brick slab.

 

[emjohn4]

Drill holes in it!

Seriously, the tailgate is heavy because it is a truck, and the tailgate is designed to be durable, for use ... as a truck!

Tacoma's and Tundra's have super lightweight tailgates, and they bend with pretty mild use.

Other than cutting interior bracing, I'm not sure there is much you could do.

I understand you want to shed the weight, but there are probably other places that would be better for that.

 

[96JoesRam]

Well Silverados and F150s have lightweight tailgates and yet withstand "normal" use (walking on). It's not like I'm loading ATVs, bricks, or other heavy things on it. The most it sees is a 250lb person walking on it. Other than that it's purely a privacy/weathertight device. I'd opt for fiberglass, but I'm a poor bloke, so I tend to do everything myself that I can. Is there some type of heavy plate inside or what? How can Ford & Chevy have lightweight gates that withstand people walking on them? That's the end result I'm looking for. My truck sees light use. I might as well have a muscle car for my usage, but I love trucks for the looks. It also is my daily driver, but I can't stand having an unmodded vehicle. I want a weekend warrior type daily driver.
What else would you suggest for ditching weight? Obviously front and rear bumper go for fiberglass bumper and roll pan. Spare tire is gone. I need my back seats still tho...

 

[willee51]

Oooooooooo.....

get over the weight, its a TRUCK. Wanna cut some weight, geta Prius

Look, the other day a kid on a cell phone ran into the back of my truck at an intersection! My damage: $135 parts/labor to replace the black plastic part that covers the top surface of my rear bumper!

Her estimated (small VW) damage was about $3500 including a busted radiator!

So leave the "strong as a TANK" RAM as it is

 

[Chewy]

No, Fords and Chevys like my '13 RAM have torsion bars to lighten the lifting weight.

Take it off and run a net! It'll be like you're in the early '90s!


Sent from my iDevice using data nodes and algorithms.

 

[smiley]

Turbo net what a joke those were. My neighbor runs a surf board as a tailgate.


$miley

 

[96JoesRam]

Funny, with the Prius comment...
Anyways, I'll sacrifice strength to a point, so long as I can still walk on it (less than 250lbs). I'm looking to pro-street this truck while still using it as a daily driver. It doesn't see towing/hauling duties, nor off roading. It's a pure street vehicle and will be treated as such.
I'm guessing none of you know what the inside of your tailgates look like? Like if the latch linkage broke, how would you get inside to replace the linkage?
I'd just go for a pure fiberglass tailgate, but again, I'm not made of $$ like a lot of people seem to be...

 

[Designflaw]

I'm guessing none of you know what the inside of your tailgates look like? Like if the latch linkage broke, how would you get inside to replace the linkage?

You just take off the access panel on the inside of the gate

 

[Chewy]

Yep, mine has a access panel that's removable with some screws.

 

[that white kid]

You just take off the access panel on the inside of the gate

the access panel is only there on the 4th gens

 

[96JoesRam]

Where is that? Cause mine just looks completely welded together. No signs of screw/bolt holes anywhere. Just stitch welding all around the outside edges.

 

[that white kid]

Where is that? Cause mine just looks completely welded together. No signs of screw/bolt holes anywhere. Just stitch welding all around the outside edges.

the opening is only on the 4th gens

 

[C.Carmichael]

the access panel is only there on the 4th gens

My 3rd gen has it.... And every other dodge, no wait, Truck I have ever seen has one. My family had a 98 and it was there...

 

[that white kid]

oh sorry for not having my info right.

I personally have never seen them on any dodge other than the 4 gens everyone i know has thoose plastic bed covers so thats probably why i havent seen them

 

[Designflaw]

the access panel is only there on the 4th gens

My 3rd Gen 2500 had the same access.

Where is that? Cause mine just looks completely welded together. No signs of screw/bolt holes anywhere. Just stitch welding all around the outside edges.

I can't speak for your year, haven't seen anything that didn't have access of some sort. But here is a picture I found on this forum of the access open on the 4th gen

 

[C.Carmichael]

oh sorry for not having my info right.

I personally have never seen them on any dodge other than the 4 gens everyone i know has thoose plastic bed covers so thats probably why i havent seen them

It will be under the tailgate cover for sure.

 

[96JoesRam]

If it was that simple, I wouldn't have this question. It was that simple in my last vehicle. Mine has no sign of any access panel. It looks folded and stitch welded all the way around. No sign of pre-existing screw/bolt holes. It looks like it was all factory done & painted, not something the previous owner did. I have absolutely no clue how to get inside without just grabbing a 4½" grinder and cutting the ******* wide open...

 

[96JoesRam]

This is what I mean. Solid (only holes are for mounting the liner), folded over, and welded across the bottom...

 

[Okiespaniel]

Well...

I can appreciate the OPS settiments to a point. The faucking gate is heavy. It still dings easy at the top despite it's girth.

Personally I'd think you'd want the weight of the gate out back, since your truck has about a 60/40 weight bias. I'd be moving things like batteries etc to the back and as far back as possible. But that's my thing, not yours. If fact I knew I guy that took a bag of cement...never mind!

Here's a suggestion...and no I haven't pulled mine apart, but the rods are an easy fix once you pull the latch. But I have removed and installed it myself.

Take off your bolt on bedliner, grab a couple different sized hole saws and a heavy duty drill and start in. I'm sure theres a good 10-20 lbs of weight you can swiss cheese out of there without affecting strength. Drill a few holes along the sides as well.

Now having done that, I WILL tell you a spot where you can shave some weight. Take the rear bumper off and remove the center section. Take out that big ugly piece of steel and start drilling, cutting etc. I sure you can remove about half the mass of that part without effecting the bumper as long as you don't get rear ended or tow anything with the bumper.

Good luck...btw I did mention the weight bias issue right? Good.

 

[96JoesRam]

That was a much better answer than any so far. I suppose that may be my only choice...
Also, the bumper is getting the scrapyard treatment and front bumper also in the favor of fiberglass pieces. I have a tow hitch that is bolted to the frame that I am going to keep tho, as I hook my bike rack to it and is there if god forbid I ever tow something someday. My last vehicle I owned 6 years with a tow hitch... towed a very small trailer on one day in the last year I owned it, and just to take some stuff from a friends house to a storage unit.