Is there any all in one sound deadener?

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Drunken Hamster

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Specifically some that's as good as layering the cld, ccf, and mlv yourself?

Also, is there a climate insulator type of thing that sticks on and can work with sound deadener, or, better yet, an all in one that's good AND had climate insulator on it, too?

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xtremewlr

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Easy enough to layer the vibration damper and then the sound deadener/insulation like I did. Why do you need an all in one? Not really much less work and it wouldn't save any room really.
 

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S0CAL

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Unaware of all in one. However, having done a complete Dynamat, Dynaliner and Dynapad, I can categorically state that my truck stays cooler for longer in the summer, and holds the heat in longer in the winter than it did as stock. Trips to and from the parking lot after hitting a big box store or grocery store for 30-45 minutes are my proof.
 

xtremewlr

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Unaware of all in one. However, having done a complete Dynamat, Dynaliner and Dynapad, I can categorically state that my truck stays cooler for longer in the summer, and holds the heat in longer in the winter than it did as stock. Trips to and from the parking lot after hitting a big box store or grocery store for 30-45 minutes are my proof.

Agreed after doing the roof panel in my truck yesterday and comparing it to today. Much cooler. Your threads on installing the sound deadener and insulation is what got me going on doing mine.
 
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Drunken Hamster

Drunken Hamster

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Easy enough to layer the vibration damper and then the sound deadener/insulation like I did. Why do you need an all in one? Not really much less work and it wouldn't save any room really.

I know it wouldn't save room, but if the main 3 layers (cld, ccf, mlv) were all combined, it would theoretically reduce installation time to a third of what it would've been. Not really concerned with climate insulation being combined into it at the same time, that sounds like kind of a stretch, anyway.

I mainly wanted to know what was a good all in one sound deadener to replace the 3-product method and then what was a good weather insulator to throw over it and hopefully keep the heat out/cool in during summer and vice versa in the winter. Thanks for the links, I'll check them out.
 
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Drunken Hamster

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Agreed after doing the roof panel in my truck yesterday and comparing it to today. Much cooler. Your threads on installing the sound deadener and insulation is what got me going on doing mine.

Wow, this site has some really good stuff! And it all makes sense, too.

And the funny thing is, pricing it out with them actually comes out cheaper than it would've if I went the conventional method of 100% coverage CLD and then all the other stuff. Seriously, $750 to do the whole truck? Racking up materials on Amazon was getting close to DOUBLE that with normal stuff.

Although, I will say, this dude makes a good case for HMF being added everywhere. I think that if/when I end up doing this all, I'll start with everything but that, and then check for clearances and buy whichever thickness is better and put it where it needs to go.

At the same time, only the doors, roof, and firewall, with, maybe the pillars would seem to matter for it since it seems to primarily be for weather insulation? Then again, it says 'absorbs high-frequency sound and reduces heat transfer', so it also plays a part in sound dampening... It IS really expensive, so... We'll see...

Do any of you guys actually think any other brands would offer a better product and that this should just be used for techniques and quantities, or should someone be g2g with buying this guy's stuff, too? Also, what's the difference between foil faced and plain MLV aside from appearance and price? I couldn't find that out on the website...
 

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Dunno. But here's what you can take to the bank: ANYTHING you do is going to be better than what you have today. One of the advantages of having 3 layers of application is because the surface may not take the thickest of products. For instance, I put 1/2 inch Dynaliner on the back wall, but that wouldn't work for me on the roof or the doors, so I went 1/8 and 1/4 inch respectively. Also if you're interested in chasing the heat out of your cabin, you'd do well to really focus on the firewall at your feet, and the roof.

The biggest bang for the sound buck (quietness) I achieved was after doing the backwall and the doors. Everything else was gravy. I spent well, well past $750, but I really don't regret it one bit. Every single time I (or anyone) gets in the truck, it is the most pleasant experience.

I hope you get the results you seek and I look forward to seeing your posts! Incidentally, beer REALLY does help. :cheers:
 
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Drunken Hamster

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Dunno. But here's what you can take to the bank: ANYTHING you do is going to be better than what you have today. One of the advantages of having 3 layers of application is because the surface may not take the thickest of products. For instance, I put 1/2 inch Dynaliner on the back wall, but that wouldn't work for me on the roof or the doors, so I went 1/8 and 1/4 inch respectively. Also if you're interested in chasing the heat out of your cabin, you'd do well to really focus on the firewall at your feet, and the roof.

The biggest bang for the sound buck (quietness) I achieved was after doing the backwall and the doors. Everything else was gravy. I spent well, well past $750, but I really don't regret it one bit. Every single time I (or anyone) gets in the truck, it is the most pleasant experience.

I hope you get the results you seek and I look forward to seeing your posts! Incidentally, beer REALLY does help. :cheers:

Not for me, dude. Can't have it.

Anyway, the only problem with being anywhere near serious about this is that I'm heavily considering selling the truck. It really is a **** daily. Poor fuel economy, poor performance comparatively, huge, relatively old, **** keeps breaking on it...

I mean, I don't use it as a truck, and I don't use it as a 'sedan' either because I'm single and ****. 97% of the time it's just me, 2% only an extra passenger, and the last 1% is if I'm helping multiple neighbors out at once. Which, in all honesty, I don't really care to do all that much.

It's sad, really, because I know it has so much potential to be a really cool ride, but I just don't need it, and it's kinda hurting to keep it around. What I need is something with good fuel economy, reliable, that'll haul me, another person tops, my cats, and some luggage and is good for road trips. What I want is manual, RWD, relatively new, and some giddup, as well as good aftermarket and style.

The closest fit would be blasphemous to speak of on this forum according to most people... But all at the same time, it'd cost me 20k... Probably 25k after interest... And I really don't know how to get it with 0 credit and $300 to my name with a job that's so flip-floppy I can make $500 a week on bonus week, or as little as $175 on a slow ass week.

PLUS I want to get a different place due to **** neighbors and parking situation, but, at $500 a month utilities included AND a 10x20 storage unit, this place is REALLY. *******. HARD. to beat. And, I unfortunately currently NEED that storage space to house all my dad's old stuff that I can't sell since he died, and some of my own stuff like tools and tires and fenders and whatnot...

IDK. Now I'm on another stupid rant again. There's no one to help me that's around and I literally do not know how to deal with this **** without getting ******, so I end up not doing anything and still remaining half-******. Damn if I do, damn if I don't. ******* HATE that ****.
 

S0CAL

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Not for me, dude. Can't have it.

Anyway, the only problem with being anywhere near serious about this is that I'm heavily considering selling the truck. It really is a **** daily. Poor fuel economy, poor performance comparatively, huge, relatively old, **** keeps breaking on it...

I mean, I don't use it as a truck, and I don't use it as a 'sedan' either because I'm single and ****. 97% of the time it's just me, 2% only an extra passenger, and the last 1% is if I'm helping multiple neighbors out at once. Which, in all honesty, I don't really care to do all that much.

It's sad, really, because I know it has so much potential to be a really cool ride, but I just don't need it, and it's kinda hurting to keep it around. What I need is something with good fuel economy, reliable, that'll haul me, another person tops, my cats, and some luggage and is good for road trips. What I want is manual, RWD, relatively new, and some giddup, as well as good aftermarket and style.

The closest fit would be blasphemous to speak of on this forum according to most people... But all at the same time, it'd cost me 20k... Probably 25k after interest... And I really don't know how to get it with 0 credit and $300 to my name with a job that's so flip-floppy I can make $500 a week on bonus week, or as little as $175 on a slow ass week.

PLUS I want to get a different place due to **** neighbors and parking situation, but, at $500 a month utilities included AND a 10x20 storage unit, this place is REALLY. *******. HARD. to beat. And, I unfortunately currently NEED that storage space to house all my dad's old stuff that I can't sell since he died, and some of my own stuff like tools and tires and fenders and whatnot...

IDK. Now I'm on another stupid rant again. There's no one to help me that's around and I literally do not know how to deal with this **** without getting ******, so I end up not doing anything and still remaining half-******. Damn if I do, damn if I don't. ******* HATE that ****.
I hear ya, and you always have choices. I wouldn't sink any money into a vehicle you think you may unload because it's not "just right" for you. But I do hope you get what you want. We all deserve happiness, brother.
 

xtremewlr

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So far, I've spent $241 on sound deadening materials for the truck. That has been enough material to do all 4 doors and the roof and i have material left over still. Probably enough to do the back wall. I used Onyx GMat vibration damper and Noico sound deadener/insulation. All from Amazon. I can't find the same Noico stuff on Amazon now but they have similar stuff still. Maybe they updated the product. For the Gmat, you don't have to cover every square inch to have good results so you don't need as much of that as you might think.

2 of Noico Liner 315 Mil 18.5 Sqft Car Heat Insulation Pad, Foam Self-adhesive Sound Deadening and Automotive Dampening Mat for Cars (1/3'' Sound Deadener)

4 of GTMAT ONYX 10 sqft Automotive Sound Dampening Real True Butyl - Noise Deadener Installation Kit Includes: 10 x 1sqft Sheet (12” x 12”)
 

xtremewlr

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From the sounddeadenershowdown site I linked, to dampen and reduce resonance:

The rule of thumb is: enough CLD Tile to cover 25% of the surface distributed over the central 50%-75% of the panel.

So, that is why I only used 6 squares on the rear half and 3 on the front half of the roof when I did it. Then i covered all of it with the sound deadener/insulation.

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