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Here you go guys, Banks builds an OBDII splitter, and also builds the best pedal mod which won't throw your truck into limp mode or throw codes (I'd never run any of that cheap stuff):
The splitter:
Universal fitment designed to allow you to connect two devices to the OBDII port. The plug is a right angle for minimal interference.
bankspower.com
The pedal monster
PedalMonster is the only OBD-connected throttle sensitivity controller and is tuned to eliminate factory throttle delay, instantly making your vehicle more fun to drive. Improve acceleration, eliminate factory delay and enhance your driving experience. (64330, 64331, 64332, 64333)
bankspower.com
Modifying existing technology in things mechanical has always been at the root of making things better, more convenient, etc. The old Red Green show out of Canada was a wonderful satire to that truth. (Thank God for duct tape, eh?)
As I observe through this and other forums, witness it in real time/ life, I read about it, witness it, and am called in to repair different renditions of unintended problems which are caused by the most well-intended DIY'er, I have for myself decided that:
1) If I want a convertible, I'll buy one instead of installing a sun roof in my existing vehicle
2) If I want upwards of 40 MPG, I'll buy a puddle jumper vehicle designed for the sole purpose of economy, I'll respect the difference in intended use/ purpose of devices, contraptions, et. al.
IOW, I will not use my table saw to slice lunch meat.
3) Through my own education and experiences, I've seen some real interesting issues arise from modifications, especially the ones done by the more mis-led folks who have been subjected to influence of Youtubers, glossy print ads, and vendors hawking their latest "snake oil" cure for pesky things that drain one's wallet, and very little else.
One interesting phenomena I've seen several times in days of yore was the crazy, unpredictable electrical foibles which are borne of modifications, is when a person would put a thumpy-boom box in a vehicle (Early days of this) and would have crazy side effects elsewhere.
One that really sticks out in my mind was a 2002 GMC Envoy. The customer, who was my age, had bought this car new for his wife to drive for her needs. Fast forward to 2011, his daughter came of driving age, and said customer gives this car to his daughter and buys Mamma a new vehicle.
Said daughter has a boyfriend who "talks" her into installing a stereo, amplifier, and thump-boom box in the cargo area, sporting a pair of rather large woofers..
As that summer came around, said daughter complained to Daddy that the EATC (Electronic Automatic Climate) control system would randomly go from 60 degrees max A/C in the heat of the day to full on HEAT!!
Interestingly, this began very soon after previously mentioned "Thumpy-Boom" window rattle system was installed. Hmm? Where to begin?
I've seen many loud systems that were just like this, but this was a new challenge.
The power wires for the Amp went directly to the battery. OK, so what? Well, a car's battery is a huge capacitor. Clue #1.
A scan of the vehicle showed, in particular, the Zoned EATC had DTC's and the one which grabbed my attention was the feared "U" code.
Now, where is the next diagnostic destination? I got out my oscilloscope, and was able to pick up high EMF "damped sine wave" patterns of great magnitude on the negative battery cable! WTF?
These noises were present only with the thumpy system going at high volume!
Time to put on my thinking cap.......
In one of those 2 AM "GREAT SCOT" moments akin to doc on Back to the future, it dawned on me. What do those huge woofers both possess? The answer was "HUGE magnets!
What's the significance of that? Well, when the system drove the woofers outward, it took charging the coils at the magnets! "So what?" one might ask. The answer was/is that when the field which drove those speakers out collapses and the cones return to rest, that collapsed field was throwing a high voltage spike through the car's battery, thence the entire electrical system!!
The solution other than disconnecting that system was to put a 1 FARAD capacitor on the amplifier, which was adjacent to the speaker box. Problem solved.
With the new FD CAN/BUS systems seen today, I'd be remiss not to advise one to keep things stock. Otherwise, thy might just turn their car into a potato masher!
P.S. in the days since, those loud systems have their own high volume capacitors, mitigating emf feedback.
As far as APP systems on cars/trucks, I'd professionally and personally leave them alone. But then, I'm NOT the guy on Red Green either!
I will never ever own another gm product. Only real Downfall I see with the tundra is it does not use a v8 anymore. Twin turbo 6 is their only motor available in the new truck. Although if I had to buy a new truck it would most likely be a ram 3500 srw Cummins or a 2500 6.4 hemi so I could be a 5th wheel
