Max power for pioneer 8” shallow sub and signal

[blackbetty14]

Decided to get another pioneer 8” shallow sub. I will make a 2nd box for the driver side under the seat and keep the fold flat floor. My question is I don’t want to put a lot of money into the system. I’m happy with the stock upgraded alpine system with the pioneer sub in the stock box on the pass side. But just wanted a smidge more bass.

Here’s what I want to do.

1.) make small box for the minimum .5cuft space.
2.) tap into the stock sub wires for signal, thinking high pass wires into amp.
3.) throw my barely used pioneer 8601 d series mono amp and wire the subs dual 2ohm to a 4 ohm load. The amp puts out 300wrms at 4 ohm which is high (double) of what the sub is rated for.

You guys think that will be a problem? 300wrms too much when the sub is rated for 150wrms? I was using this amp to power a 12” pioneer shallow sub and it worked good. I have a small kicker powersports amp but that only puts out 50wrms. What’s annoying is I have a 12” box and sub for the truck but on my 14 CC I had to use 3/4” spacers and that didn’t have the fold flat door which I would loose. So I don’t want to go that route.

Also you guys think the sub amplified wires will fry the high pass on the amp? I have a scosch LOC but don’t want to worry about remote turn on etc.

 

[misfit77]

Not a problem just don't turn it up too much.

Leave those gains down.

 

[blackbetty14]

Not a problem just don't turn it up too much.

Leave those gains down.

That’s what I figured. You think the stock sub power wires will be fine for the Signal to the amp with the high level inputs?

 

[misfit77]

Yes. That's the intent of high levels.

I ran high levels for a while but I had issues with my amp turn on via DC offset.

 

[misfit77]

Yes. That's the intent of high levels.

I ran high levels for a while but I had issues with my amp turn on via DC offset.

Wait I take that back... Amp high level are limited. I would tap in before your stock amp.

Even your scoche LOC is limited to 80 watts or so.

 

[blackbetty14]

Wait I take that back... Amp high level are limited. I would tap in before your stock amp.

Even your scoche LOC is limited to 80 watts or so.

I don’t want to run wiring all the way to the front to get signal for the amp. Ram has done it conviently for me at the stock sub lol. Where do I get those ratings for the high level input? I just checked online and all it says for high level is 16v max. Attached is a screenshot of the 8601 specs.

 

[misfit77]

Am I reading this right...you want to run the output of your factory sub amp into the high levels of your aftermarket amp?

What I don't see on that spec sheet is Max watts input on your high levels.

I know scoche and other LOC publish that info.

I don't have a factory sub, But I imagine the amp is near the speaker.
That means you could tap into that.

 

[blackbetty14]

Am I reading this right...you want to run the output of your factory sub amp into the high levels of your aftermarket amp?

What I don't see on that spec sheet is Max watts input on your high levels.

I know scoche and other LOC publish that info.

I don't have a factory sub, But I imagine the amp is near the speaker.
That means you could tap into that.

Essientally yes. The stock sub as 2 sets of wires (4 total) each set powers one of the dual voice coils on the sub (2ohm load each). The stock alpine sysytem has the amp under the driver dash above or next to the steering wheel. They then run the 4 wires all the way back to the sub twisted together. I want to take a 4wire high level speaker input and tap into the 2 or 4 wires as they are the same. To produce the signal and remote turn on for the amp.

I’ve never seen max watts for a high level on an amp before. It’s more about voltage from what I’ve seen as they are based on low voltage RCA preamp connections.

 

[blackbetty14]

But I want to also say that I’m leaving the stock sub connected. So it’s still consuming the power. I’m just tapping into the wires for a signal which is essentially what it’s doing for a signal as well on a regular speaker. I’m basically just piggybacking off the stock sub wiring to add another signal for another amp/sub.

 

[misfit77]

I see the dilemma.

I as well as others just tap into the speakers on the rear pillar for a signal. I am guessing you would like to control both subs rather always adjusting two.

I would use the LOC you have. You know it's wattage rating and if it breaks...easy and cheap to replace.

Also if you not running wire to your dash, what are you using for remote on?

 

[blackbetty14]

The high level input acts like a remote turn on. When the speaker receives power to make sound (higher voltage) the amp pics that up and turns on. So it’s clean as your not running a remote turn on wire (switched 12v source) since the factory radio doesn’t provide one specific for the radio.

 

[misfit77]

So either you have signal sensing or DC offset sensing. That's what I tried with my kicker amp. I had troubles with it staying on. Kicker couldn't figure it out so I used the scoche lOC.
It has a remote out and it's DC offset sensing worked like a charm.

I used the power and ground from the kicker amp. So very little extra wiring involved.

 

[blackbetty14]

So I did some looking up. A guy tested the voltages at all the speakers and sub via the factory alpine system. Looks like the sub outputs 9ish volts which is within the 16v margin of the pioneer amp. See pick below.