More Audio Help - Amp Replacement

[MarshRam]

Well, couldn't find any bad grounds. Did discover one super awesome smart move they made on the install, ran the speaker lines on passenger side right along with the positive cable to the amp. Hell, might as well have zip tied them together.

Anyway, I have been wanting to sound deaden, move amps to the back and rewire the whole operation. Decided to put in the new receiver, disconnect my tweeters completely, run all doors off the receiver and keep my mono and subs hooked up until I can order everything I need and have a day or so to get it all done right.

 

[MarshRam]

So the new head unit compared to the what I had is night and day. I had a horse carriage and now I have the Star Trek Enterprise. With that said, after playing with the sound staging, I am very happy and probably don't need an amp for all my door speakers.

However, I don't have my tweeters hooked up and am trying to figure out the best way to get them wired. I am using the speaker leads from the head unit to power all 4 doors, sub output RCA's to my sub amp. Not utilizing the RCA outputs for front and rear.

Any suggestions on how to get my tweeters hooked up?

Headunit:
Pioneer AVH-201ex
internal amp (14 watts RMS CTA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels)

Doors front and back:
Pioneer 3 Way 6x9 TS-A6966R
power range: 5-60 watts RMS (420 watts peak power)
frequency response: 28-36,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92 dB
Impedance: 4ohm
Crossover Frequency: 2500 Hz

Dash (2)
Pioneer TS-T110
Nominal Impedance: 4ohm
Max Power: 120W
cutoff freq: >= to 7k Hz with 6dB
frequency response: 2,500-30k Hz

 

[BWL]

4 channel amp for the tweeters and front door speakers in the 50-75 X 4 @4ohm RMS range. Y-cables off the front RCAs for signal so you can still fade front to rear. Head unit power for rear speakers.

 

[MarshRam]

4 channel amp for the tweeters and front door speakers in the 50-75 X 4 @4ohm RMS range. Y-cables off the front RCAs for signal so you can still fade front to rear. Head unit power for rear speakers.

Damn, so the best way to do this then is to get another amp so I can get my tweeters hooked back up? I believe you mentioned the amp/y-cables setup in a previous post. I am incredibly impressed with the difference in sound quality and was going to try and avoid another amp, but if that is really my only option, then it will have to be.

 

[BWL]

Pretty much the only way to get it done. Would be yet another huge step up if it makes you feel better. If you get the subs running well it'll drown out those 6X9s with HU power and you'd want to amp them in the end anyways. If you're happy with the sound you could just leave it as is.

 

[MarshRam]

Nah, I need those tweeters, lol... As much as it has improved, it needs that last touch to top it off. I'll go get another amp, no issue. I appreciate your help!

 

[TomT]

I was just browsing Crutchfield and came across this unit. It has a built in DSP and would give you 45w to your tweeters and rear doors with 95w to your front doors.

Since you already have the sub amp it would be kind of perfect and give you some tuning options as well.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS6DSP/Sony-XM-GS6DSP.html

 

[MarshRam]

I was just browsing Crutchfield and came across this unit. It has a built in DSP and would give you 45w to your tweeters and rear doors with 95w to your front doors.

Since you already have the sub amp it would be kind of perfect and give you some tuning options as well.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS6DSP/Sony-XM-GS6DSP.html

A little more than I was looking for, but not too much. I am ready to be done with this. I'll take a look at it. Much appreciated!

 

[BiGMERF]

That’s a bad ass amp. Just never been to fond of Sony amps

 

[TomT]

The old Sony Class A amps were pretty amazing. Can’t speak to the current ones though. Everything else with a built in DSP is more like $800+.