Gregdad
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2017
- Posts
- 646
- Reaction score
- 1,073
- Location
- Fort St. John BC, Canada
- Ram Year
- 2022
- Engine
- 5.7
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Do you know what the name and style is of your headlights? I love the look and the only said I can find is like a $120 just wanna make sure that it's not a cheap version that I will have problems with
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I trimmed the curved section of the plate holder then moved it up to clear the light bar. Don’t mind the bug guts, I was on a road trip to the Yukon
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CJC OFFROAD brackets....rivet into the door jams
Been a while....any new setups?
Went from a 42" curved 5d light bar and a 32" straight bar between the tow hooks to 4 4.7" 25w vision x knock offs from JGL a few months ago and couldn't be happier. It definitely doesn't have the output of BD LP9's or most likely the actual vision x products but it works well for my needs.
Why the change up?
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Both the light bars had scratched up lenses and were turning/fading yellow. I also wanted more distance and less current draw. Since I upgraded my high beams to the GTR Lighting bulbs, the light bars didn't shine any further then my high beams (they were brighter at that distance though) so ended up not using them that much.
When I installed these 4 lights I went from a combined (rated) 560w (240w for the 42" and 320w for the 32" (5w chips)) to only 100w and gained around twice the distance in lighting. I put 3m ppf over the lenses on these driving lights to protect them from scratches and rocks and I also put trim sealant on every 4-6 months to help prevent the powder coating from fading.
I also prefer the look of round lights and just wanted a change from bars as this was my second 42" bar in the same location. I was also seeing if removing the bar between the tow hooks gave me any noticeable difference in trans/engine/EGT's and it didn't. I only pull around 10,000lbs though.
Ya, the light bar looks very clean between the tow hooks and fairly well protected from the elements and theft too. I moved my tow hooks over to within an 1/8" of the bumper opening using 1/2" plate steel and drilling and tapping holes for studs in order to fit a straight 32" bar. It worked well too. The only thing about having a bar that low is it casts shadows over pot holes and washboards which gets annoying. Having a bar on top of the bumper eliminated that issue. Having it mounted around headlight height or just a bit higher is ideal IMO for anything other than a flood light. You will also gain a bit more distance with it mounted higher up.I am intrested in doing something similar. I like the clean look of the light bar by the recovery points but also love the classic look of the 4 round. I like where you have yours. Is that a special mounting bracket?
Ya, the light bar looks very clean between the tow hooks and fairly well protected from the elements and theft too. I moved my tow hooks over to within an 1/8" of the bumper opening using 1/2" plate steel and drilling and tapping holes for studs in order to fit a straight 32" bar. It worked well too. The only thing about having a bar that low is it casts shadows over pot holes and washboards which gets annoying. Having a bar on top of the bumper eliminated that issue. Having it mounted around headlight height or just a bit higher is ideal IMO for anything other than a flood light. You will also gain a bit more distance with it mounted higher up.
I actually made that bar as I wanted it to be the same size as a 42" lightbar to use the holes I had already drilled into my bumper over 4 years ago. I used 1 1/2 Schedule 40 steel tubing for the bar, 3"x3"x3/16" angle iron for the "brackets" (and to cap the tubing) and 3/16" flat bar (2" wide) for the light mounting tabs. I cut a 4° bevel to make an 8° bend almost all the way through the tubing leaving about a 1/16" or so of steel to get a nice, crisp bent edge and for ease of bending without heating and welding the gap closed. I degreased the steel, scuffed with a grit flap disk, cleaned it 2 more times, applied a 2K epoxy primer and brought it to a professional bedliner shop to get it sprayed within the chemical bonding time of the epoxy primer. I over drilled the holes by an 1/8" so that way I didn't have to drill after the bedliner was complete and have exposed steel. I used all marine grade 316 stainless steel hardware and nylocks and put 1/8" sheet rubber between the chrome bumper and bar and between the mounting tabs and the lights as well.
N-Fab and westin make bars that will hold 4 lights and mount behind the tow hooks if you don't want to go the DIY route.
https://n-fab.com/light-bar-with-tabs
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Yep, I just went into the bumper. It's probably a little heavy to mount to plastic for my liking. I did see some other posts on this thread mount their bars on top of the color matched bumper. I'm not sure if there is something more substantial underneath it. I should mention that one of my 42" light bars (Riorand) is heavier than the "light bar" that I made out of tubing with the 4 lights mounted on it. The second 42" light bar (Auxbeam 5d) weighs about the same as the steel tube with lights.So you just went into the bumper for mounting? I have the color matched bumper which I know some guys have mounted light bars too. maybe something else, I feel like the tube and lights might be too heavy to just go into the plastic.
Yep, I just went into the bumper. It's probably a little heavy to mount to plastic for my liking. I did see some other posts on this thread mount their bars on top of the color matched bumper. I'm not sure if there is something more substantial underneath it. I should mention that one of my 42" light bars (Riorand) is heavier than the "light bar" that I made out of tubing with the 4 lights mounted on it. The second 42" light bar (Auxbeam 5d) weighs about the same as the steel tube with lights.
I was worried about the weight as well at first until I dug my old light bar out of the shed and felt how heavy it was. My round lights have a lot of polycarbonate on them with aluminum just for the heatsink and mounting pedestal so they weigh less than 2lbs a light.
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