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TheBlueFalcon

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Yakima, WA
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2013.5
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I'll try to give you the details without going crazy here...

There is a TL;DR at the end.
I know this is a novel at this point, but my stress and frustration are high enough that I'd rather y'all have all the details than be missing anything I didn't mention. For all I know, I'm overlooking something obvious.


I have a 4WD Ram 3500 2013.5 68RFE with 350k miles on it. I've had to replace a number of components as you can imagine, but I'm getting really ticked with my front end.

I noticed a solid clunk at low speeds on washboards coming from the front beneath my feet. I could hear/feel it resonate through the metal. I grabbed hold of everything I could reasonably suspect and noted the tie rod was the worst and seemed way too loose. The boots were shot, so I took it to the stealership for their opinion (I've searched high and low for anyone remotely close that us confident working on a 1-ton diesel and haven't found squat).

After having it overnight, they said it was the whole steering linkage, from tie rod to drag link, also stating that it was risky to drive more than necessary. This I assumed, as handling was pretty unstable and loose overall. But they were backordered until mid-February so I opted for aftermarket. I went with the Thuren Fabrication setup. Knocked that out the next day and my buddy and I noted the drag link had no play, so I left that in the box for when the time comes. I took it for alignment at Les Schwab.

This is where my trouble begins.

Les Schwab couldn't align it. (though I got lucky by guessing and had all my specs within the margin while stationary) They said it was because the play in my trackbar and ball joints was pretty horrific, which I visually confirmed. They were confused when I asked about the drag link, which they showed me was solid. Replaced these mentioned parts soon after, OEM ball joints and Carli Trackbar. Les Schwab wouldn't do the trackbar, so I opted for the dealership.

Dealership recommended that I get front U-Joints done to save on labor. I agreed reluctantly. The Ball joints, trackbar, and U-Joints took 3 days to finish... Got the truck back, and 20 miles later: "Clunk-clunk-clunk". I suspected the trackbar and it was installed totally wrong. Hardware wasn't used that increases clearance so the bar was knocking on the diff and damper mounting bolts. To make sure it wasn't the sway bar links, I removed these at home before taking it in. Slight improvement taking these off, but not a resolution. Bushings also look good. Back to the trackbar...

A different tech did it this time, and had to do it twice because he also failed to read the instructions for torque/measurement specs. He had to redo it one more time, with me having to show him how to do almost every step. I wasn't a ****, so I only pointed out some of the specs and orientation of parts being installed. But I had to instruct the mechanic at a dealership....
ANYWAY!

I left and made it 20 miles home with not a single clunk. My elation was shortlived because an errand later that day revealed the clunks had come back as bad as ever. I swore and crawled underneath in snow and slush to see the trackbar was not lining up as it had before. The jackasses didn't use any locktite. The jam nut had loosened, allowing the driver side to twist so it was tapping the bracket every bump. Not to mention my steering was pulling now, albeit subtle.


The dealership was closing soon so I had some of the guys I'd come to know at Les Schwab look at things. They took it down, installed it correctly and we were off. But a slightly quieter clunk still remains. I'm not returning to the dealership. I would be better off having an understaffed daycare try fixing it than those idiots at this point...


What. In. God's. Name. Is. That. Sound.





TL;DR

I'm losing my sanity over this, namely because I don't want to cause rapid wear and breakdown of related parts if it is something I am missing. I've shelled out a painful heap of cash at admittedly valid repairs, but none resolved my chief concern: the clunk.

I don't feel it in the wheel. It isn't a body panel or running boards. It is definitely not a small clunk. My hubs and brakes are brand new.
Ball joints, U-Joints, tie rods, sway bar links, drag links, and the trackbar have all been eliminated.
I got a new gearbox/power steering pump/damper/brake booster before all this, so I'm checking those off.

What in the world is left? I wouldn't pump this much money into this pig if I didn't need something with nuts massive enough to tow the rare huge loads I have to. A new truck sadly is out of the question since I have invested in rebuilding everything fairly recently except the tranny, frame and rear suspension.

I just want to drive this SoB without flinching at every sound since I know the mechanics in my area can't diagnose worth a damn, never mind make repairs, especially at the dealership...

I could really use some veteran brain power here. I will be combing over struts and the hood bumpers in desperation next, though precursory inspection has shown nothing for those...


Details on the clunk:
- It is audible/palpable over the engine and radio.
- It does NOT happen at highway speed.
- It coincides with washboards/potholes/dips.
- The frequency seems like it matches the wheel rotation speed, but that has been difficult to assess. It almost seems to clunk each rotation of the tire when on bumpy roads.
- I feel it in the floor more than my steering wheel.
- I suspect it is on my side, but clunking tends to travel well through the frame.
- Not 2WD or 4WD dependent.
- Does not seem to be related to acceleration.
- Occurs most often when traveling or down a grade with bumps in the road, independent of the throttle/brakes.
- No, it isn't just poor traction and mud/snow clods...
 

22hemi13

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Front shock? I had an f150 with 200k plus. The shock was just loose enough and worn that it would bounce kinda like you. 350k miles is a lot on them heavy ole front ends.
 

Ratket

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Hemi 5.7
Jesus that sucks.

On the up side you used some really good parts.

You may not know, but since you are running Carli/Thuren stuff you can call them and and try to get any helpful info from them. They will give as much info as they can to help you with Any issue they can “ that’s been my experience”
Thuren has a “ alignment spec sheet” that you can print off and hand to the alignment shop.

As far as noise..

Check the spare tire, make sure it’s tightly secured.

I know 2014 Had body mount recalls? I remember if I hit little bumps a certain way it would clunk.. and now my memory is kicking in and I know there is a thread in here some where for “ clunking front end 4th Gen” that is for the HD trucks... just got to find it.

As stated above the shocks could be a culprit.

Keep us posted, I am sure more people will chime in shortly.
 
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TheBlueFalcon

Junior Member
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Posts
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Location
Yakima, WA
Ram Year
2013.5
Engine
6.7L Cummins Turbodiesel
Front shock? I had an f150 with 200k plus. The shock was just loose enough and worn that it would bounce kinda like you. 350k miles is a lot on them heavy ole front ends.
I would love if this ends up being it. I hope to get a chance today to climb under and test each one out!
Jesus that sucks.

On the up side you used some really good parts.

You may not know, but since you are running Carli/Thuren stuff you can call them and and try to get any helpful info from them. They will give as much info as they can to help you with Any issue they can “ that’s been my experience”
Thuren has a “ alignment spec sheet” that you can print off and hand to the alignment shop.

As far as noise..

Check the spare tire, make sure it’s tightly secured.

I know 2014 Had body mount recalls? I remember if I hit little bumps a certain way it would clunk.. and now my memory is kicking in and I know there is a thread in here some where for “ clunking front end 4th Gen” that is for the HD trucks... just got to find it.

As stated above the shocks could be a culprit.

Keep us posted, I am sure more people will chime in shortly.

I've been pleasantly surprised by the Carli team especially. They helped me assess the install and explained exactly why things must be installed as described in the guide.

I'll lock down the spare while I am checking out everything else.

I am hopeful that this is it!


I can't stress how much I appreciate you guys jumping right in on this and giving some ideas. I pessimistically half expected to check-in this morning and find no one had seen my post! You guys rock.

I will keep you posted on things as I investigate further.
 
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TheBlueFalcon

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Location
Yakima, WA
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2013.5
Engine
6.7L Cummins Turbodiesel
During my break today, I went for a spin and listened for any hints as to the source of my sound. Most of our snow has melted off the main roads so I clearly felt it from the driver's side. I got out and shook down a few suspect parts that were accessible without getting on the ground. With the warmer temperatures the sound actually was sounding worse than before. I started wondering about the ice layers that accumulated in various areas and decided to start kicking the chunks off. As I did this, the ice that was packed around the running board rear attachment bolt came free and the running board dropped nearly an inch!

I didn't have time to adjust the bolt, so I will be toying with this after work. I really hope this has been the source of my recent clunking sounds, despite the blow it will cause to my pride...

When all the clunking first began (before the massive snowfall) weeks ago, I had made sure the clunks were not due to the running boards. I am guessing that with all the snow and ice packing its way into every nook and cranny of the truck, it had been melting and expanding within that attachment sight while also locking it into place for the most part until it would thaw just enough for the clunk to occur. I had been running with old assumptions that the running boards were snug!

I will let you know if it works out... I am resisting the temptation to save my pride and say it was my control arm or shocks the whole time! :banghead::bawl:
 

Ratket

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It happens- Keep is posted
 
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TheBlueFalcon

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Boom.

Couldn't tighten down the running boards due to a ton of wear on the mounting hardware. Took it off and drove hard down a variety of roads; NO MORE CLUNKS.

As I mentioned, there had been a different clunk early on that was NOT the running boards. Parts replaced:
  • Synergy Steering Assembly (not Thuren, my bad!)
    • $890
  • Carli Adjustable Trackbar
    • $435
  • OEM Upper/Lower Ball Joints (Carli has some Lifetime ones coming out in April 2019 I really wanted, but my joints were getting pretty bad)
    • $500
  • Precision Front U-Joints
    • $200
  • Sway Bar Links (technically removed for the moment, not yet replaced but also shot) eyes are on pair of SuspensionMAXX
    • $112
  • Removed Running Boards

Loose running boards sound horrendous on the road, even if only slightly so. It sounds as if you have a ball joint or U-joint clunking and about to fail, while other times sounding like a grinding gearbox or transmission.


Pretty expensive set of repairs but I thankfully confirmed each of the failed/failing parts before replacing. The only ones that I probably didn't need to replace were the Upper Ball Joints, as the dealership mechanic didn't know about Telescoping Ball Joints and thought there should be no play whatsoever. If you have these, there will be vertical movement, as these serve as a hybrid between a classic kingpin and ball joint.

Total parts cost: $2,025
20 Hours Labor: $2,500

Makes me want to buy my own lift and garage so I could have fixed all that myself... and it would have been done right the first time, dammit!

So... anyone wanna buy some full length tubular running boards for $2,025? I'll even paint the rust!
 

22hemi13

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Military
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Tucson AZ
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2014 2500 4x4
Engine
5.7
Boom.

Couldn't tighten down the running boards due to a ton of wear on the mounting hardware. Took it off and drove hard down a variety of roads; NO MORE CLUNKS.

As I mentioned, there had been a different clunk early on that was NOT the running boards. Parts replaced:
  • Synergy Steering Assembly (not Thuren, my bad!)
    • $890
  • Carli Adjustable Trackbar
    • $435
  • OEM Upper/Lower Ball Joints (Carli has some Lifetime ones coming out in April 2019 I really wanted, but my joints were getting pretty bad)
    • $500
  • Precision Front U-Joints
    • $200
  • Sway Bar Links (technically removed for the moment, not yet replaced but also shot) eyes are on pair of SuspensionMAXX
    • $112
  • Removed Running Boards

Loose running boards sound horrendous on the road, even if only slightly so. It sounds as if you have a ball joint or U-joint clunking and about to fail, while other times sounding like a grinding gearbox or transmission.


Pretty expensive set of repairs but I thankfully confirmed each of the failed/failing parts before replacing. The only ones that I probably didn't need to replace were the Upper Ball Joints, as the dealership mechanic didn't know about Telescoping Ball Joints and thought there should be no play whatsoever. If you have these, there will be vertical movement, as these serve as a hybrid between a classic kingpin and ball joint.

Total parts cost: $2,025
20 Hours Labor: $2,500

Makes me want to buy my own lift and garage so I could have fixed all that myself... and it would have been done right the first time, dammit!

So... anyone wanna buy some full length tubular running boards for $2,025? I'll even paint the rust!
Oh man. That hurts my feeling so bad. But glad you found/fixed it
 
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