Need help with an audio system.

[Bigtymes]

I was thinking 3k labor for all that seems high, but then i re-read it and id bet most of the labor is in the sound deadening.

Yea, pretty sure it is. And the tuning. Dude said he is figuring on 1-2 days of just tuning. Said he will need the truck 5-7 days. Pulling the interior and putting it back I'm assuming will be one full day. Not positive tho.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Eestee70]

They are the Focal No 7 Utopia Be 3 way active kit.

 

[baum]

Also are they going to re-wire directly to each speaker or will they utilize the factory wiring through the door boots?

As much of a pain it is there is (at least was) empty pins that you can drill out for larger wire in the door connectors.

 

[autokraftgt]

well since I run the exact Arc amps (300.4)
I ran One 300.4 bridged to my midbass 350 watts each (dynaudio mw 182)
Then I used the other 300.4 for midrange and tweeters. 90 watts each.
I'd personally sell your focal rear door speakers and integrate a mid range into the equation. With the PS8 and an active 3-way front stage, you would have a very detailed sound stage.....you won't miss rear speakers

 

[Dirty from upstate NY]

Now that I post this, eBay just alerted me that my offer on the box was accepted. So now I am kind of on a time crunch on the box.

I have the same box, 12w6v3s DO NOT FIT. Just a heads up. I had to pull the box out and put my old school foxbox back in for now.....with the 12w3s. The box is quite irregular and depths are different per side. I measured only 7 3/4 on the passenger side and 8 1/2 on the drivers. overall, I feel that the box should only be worth 200 bucks at best. just my opinion. surface quality is horrible as well. the inside of the box was sloppy and very wavy. I will have to grind down all the lumps to try and refit the W6s. but most likely will sell the subs and install the IDQ12s i have laying around. Anyways, not a bad box, just no quality control on these things. Even the terminal cup is sh*t. I had to order my own and relocate to a more logical location, two of them....not just one.

 

[Bigtymes]

Also are they going to re-wire directly to each speaker or will they utilize the factory wiring through the door boots?

As much of a pain it is there is (at least was) empty pins that you can drill out for larger wire in the door connectors.

I want them to wire directly to the speaker, and for 3k I'm going to tell them they have to. Ha.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Bigtymes]

well since I run the exact Arc amps (300.4)
I ran One 300.4 bridged to my midbass 350 watts each (dynaudio mw 182)
Then I used the other 300.4 for midrange and tweeters. 90 watts each.
I'd personally sell your focal rear door speakers and integrate a mid range into the equation. With the PS8 and an active 3-way front stage, you would have a very detailed sound stage.....you won't miss rear speakers

I am not very knowledgeable in this, so sorry to ask for clarification. Ha. I get you saying you ran one amp bridged to midbass. Was that front 6x9 or 6.5? And then the other amp running the tweets and midbass. This is a work truck, so space is more limited than if it were a toy or whatever. I spend hours each week in here tho, hence wanting better sound. How would I do what you are suggesting? You mean completely do away with rear. (Doing this should I get rid of my 6.5 and use the 6x9 with the tweets from the 6.5 up front) And then where would I integrate the additional midbass you spoke of? Only factory spots left would be the dash 3.5 locations.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Bigtymes]

I have the same box, 12w6v3s DO NOT FIT. Just a heads up. I had to pull the box out and put my old school foxbox back in for now.....with the 12w3s. The box is quite irregular and depths are different per side. I measured only 7 3/4 on the passenger side and 8 1/2 on the drivers. overall, I feel that the box should only be worth 200 bucks at best. just my opinion. surface quality is horrible as well. the inside of the box was sloppy and very wavy. I will have to grind down all the lumps to try and refit the W6s. but most likely will sell the subs and install the IDQ12s i have laying around. Anyways, not a bad box, just no quality control on these things. Even the terminal cup is sh*t. I had to order my own and relocate to a more logical location, two of them....not just one.

I ended up canceling the order for that box and went with the dual tall net Audio box. Found a great deal on it. Came loaded with 2 13tw5's and a 1 year warranty on subs for $1k. Starting to think my warranty will be up by the time I get them installed tho. Ha.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[baum]

I would also agree to do an active 2 or 3 way set up in the front and scratch the rears. The rears are just for a little fill. hell i would leave the stocks in off the deck power.

 

[Bigtymes]

I would also agree to do an active 2 or 3 way set up in the front and scratch the rears. The rears are just for a little fill. hell i would leave the stocks in off the deck power.

Would they still play once the channels are ran into the processor and then back out to the speakers? First time with a system this advanced, so I apologize for the "dumb questions".

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Eestee70]

IMO with an SQ system you should amp all speakers in your setup. Not run any speakers on deck power, also the rear speaker inputs won't be available to use anyway. They will be going to your processor. If you go the route that autokraftgt suggested and find that you want rear speakers then you can unbridge the midbass speakers and use those two channels for rear fill. I would do a 3 way active front stage, and delete the rears. If your installer knows what they're doing then your attention will be so focused on the front stage that you will forget that you have no rear speakers.

 

[Bigtymes]

IMO with an SQ system you should amp all speakers in your setup. Not run any speakers on deck power, also the rear speaker inputs won't be available to use anyway. They will be going to your processor. If you go the route that autokraftgt suggested and find that you want rear speakers then you can unbridge the midbass speakers and use those two channels for rear fill. I would do a 3 way active front stage, and delete the rears. If your installer knows what they're doing then your attention will be so focused on the front stage that you will forget that you have no rear speakers.

Is everyone saying to go 3 way using the factory provided dash spots, or are y'all referring to a larger midbass and fabrication? Also I'm not sure how great the sound quality will be, as I went with the lead expensive focal series. I don't have utopia kind of money. Haha.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Eestee70]

Is everyone saying to go 3 way using the factory provided dash spots, or are y'all referring to a larger midbass and fabrication? Also I'm not sure how great the sound quality will be, as I went with the lead expensive focal series. I don't have utopia kind of money. Haha.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

6.5" midbass in the doors, 3.5" midrange in the factory dash location & tweeters in the sail panels. Focal is known for making great sounding speakers at all any trim level and with proper crossover points and tuning it will bring out the best in your speakers.

 

[autokraftgt]

I am not very knowledgeable in this, so sorry to ask for clarification. Ha. I get you saying you ran one amp bridged to midbass. Was that front 6x9 or 6.5? And then the other amp running the tweets and midbass. This is a work truck, so space is more limited than if it were a toy or whatever. I spend hours each week in here tho, hence wanting better sound. How would I do what you are suggesting? You mean completely do away with rear. (Doing this should I get rid of my 6.5 and use the 6x9 with the tweets from the 6.5 up front) And then where would I integrate the additional midbass you spoke of? Only factory spots left would be the dash 3.5 locations.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

No not an additional midbass...you'd be adding a pair of midrange speakers into the equation for up front.
I was running a 10" midbass in the front doors (fair amount of cutting was needed) 4" mid range in factory dash locations, tweeters in the sail panels.
So to answer your question...
6.5-7" midbass front doors, 3.5-4" mid range factory dash locations, tweeters mounted into the sails (preferably aimed at you=on-axis)
no rear speakers. OR a 2-way front stage can sound very very nice as well but you have to spend a bit more time choosing the correct midbass and tweeter because you will be asking those speakers to do more and cover a broader frequency range. A mid range (3-4" speaker) can take a lot of stress off your midbass and tweeter....that little speaker takes over a big part of the frequency range (now your midnass doesn't have to play so high, and you don't have to play your tweeters as low) essentially keeping all three sets of speakers in their happy place and comfortable....tonal bliss

 

[Bigtymes]

No not an additional midbass...you'd be adding a pair of midrange speakers into the equation for up front.
I was running a 10" midbass in the front doors (fair amount of cutting was needed) 4" mid range in factory dash locations, tweeters in the sail panels.
So to answer your question...
6.5-7" midbass front doors, 3.5-4" mid range factory dash locations, tweeters mounted into the sails (preferably aimed at you=on-axis)
no rear speakers. OR a 2-way front stage can sound very very nice as well but you have to spend a bit more time choosing the correct midbass and tweeter because you will be asking those speakers to do more and cover a broader frequency range. A mid range (3-4" speaker) can take a lot of stress off your midbass and tweeter....that little speaker takes over a big part of the frequency range (now your midnass doesn't have to play so high, and you don't have to play your tweeters as low) essentially keeping all three sets of speakers in their happy place and comfortable....tonal bliss

I'm glad this came in right now, cause I am researching to find a 3.5 inch focal, and it doesn't prove to be easy. 4 inch is much easier to find. You're saying that a 4 inch will fit in the factory location without modifications? Thus losing the rears. Which again, no one sits back there very often. However, on the occasion that they do how would it sound back there. With the processor I can probably set it up for when riding alone as well as when riding with passengers I would assume, changing the way/location the sound is delivered.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[autokraftgt]

I'm glad this came in right now, cause I am researching to find a 3.5 inch focal, and it doesn't prove to be easy. 4 inch is much easier to find. You're saying that a 4 inch will fit in the factory location without modifications? Thus losing the rears. Which again, no one sits back there very often. However, on the occasion that they do how would it sound back there. With the processor I can probably set it up for when riding alone as well as when riding with passengers I would assume, changing the way/location the sound is delivered.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

My last mid range was a scan speak 10F @ 4". Very well regarded mid range and not that expensive. Slight trimming was needed with a dremel just so the speaker would lay flat and flush...I did not have to alter the factory speaker mounting holes (which was very important to me for future trade-in reasons...I wanted all factory speakers to return to truck when I traded it in)
Regarding rear passengers....they never knew the rears were not playing. Rear passengers had plenty of sound from the front stage PLENTY. It was not an issue, and I simply kept the factory 6x9's unplugged int the rear doors so when it was time to trade the truck in...I plugged them back in, installed all other factory speakers including base radio and the dealer never knew the stereo had been removed...so I did very well at trade-in time.

 

[Bigtymes]

Another dumb question, the ps8 does 6 channel in, 8 channel out. And I have 8 channels worth of amp for door/dash speakers. Does this mean there is a way to do both the dash AND the rear speakers or does the signal from the radio not allow that? Just dawned upon me, those additional 2 on the processor are probably for the subs. Right?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Eestee70]

There are a lot of different options. Here are a couple options for you I would consider. Active 3 way setup. First 300.4 amp, Channel 1/2 tweets, 3/4 midrange. First amp would be channel 1/2 & 3/4 on the processor. Second 300.4 amp, bridged channels 1/2 and 3/4 to operate as a 2 channel will be channel 5/6 on the processor. And the sub amp will be channel 1/2 (channel 7/8 on the processor). Option 2. active 2 way setup. First 300.4 amp. Channel 1/2 tweet (channel 1/2 on the processor) 3/4 midbass (channel 3/4 on the processor) Second 300.4 amp channel 1/2 rear fill. (channel 5/6 on the processor)Channel 3/4 unused(channel 5/6 on the processor)Sub amp channel 1/2 ( channel 7/8 on the processor.)

In order to do a ten speaker setup you would need to run the front doors and tweets off of the passive crossover that came with the set. Channel 1/2 on the first amp. Dash speakers, channel 3/4 on the first amp. Second amp. Channel 1/2 rear fill, channel 3/4 unused. Sub amp, channel 1/2 for the subs. That's the only way I see having a ten speaker setup without moving to a processor with 10 or more channels of output. Hope this is not to confusing.

 

[Bigtymes]

There are a lot of different options. Here are a couple options for you I would consider. Active 3 way setup. First 300.4 amp, Channel 1/2 tweets, 3/4 midrange. First amp would be channel 1/2 & 3/4 on the processor. Second 300.4 amp, bridged channels 1/2 and 3/4 to operate as a 2 channel will be channel 5/6 on the processor. And the sub amp will be channel 1/2 (channel 7/8 on the processor). Option 2. active 2 way setup. First 300.4 amp. Channel 1/2 tweet (channel 1/2 on the processor) 3/4 midbass (channel 3/4 on the processor) Second 300.4 amp channel 1/2 rear fill. (channel 5/6 on the processor)Channel 3/4 unused(channel 5/6 on the processor)Sub amp channel 1/2 ( channel 7/8 on the processor.)

In order to do a ten speaker setup you would need to run the front doors and tweets off of the passive crossover that came with the set. Channel 1/2 on the first amp. Dash speakers, channel 3/4 on the first amp. Second amp. Channel 1/2 rear fill, channel 3/4 unused. Sub amp, channel 1/2 for the subs. That's the only way I see having a ten speaker setup without moving to a processor with 10 or more channels of output. Hope this is not to confusing.

I actually already bought midrange speakers today. Found Focal Access (same brand/series as the rest) on ebay for $90 per speaker. They also had the controller for the ps8, listed for $360. Offered them $475 for all 3 items, they countered at $500. So I went for it. With this being the case, I need to sell the Focal Access 690. Ha. OR... Would it make sense to wire them together with the 6.5 midbass, which will be bridged on the second amp? Essentially this is now what I have...

Focal Access Tweets
Focal Access 6.5"
Focal Access 4"
Focal Access 6x9

And of course the 3 arc audio amps and processor. Or do I need to just try to sell the 690 and keep it a little simpler?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Eestee70]

Since you already have the rears hold on to them. Run with the three way setup first, if you feel the need to add rear fill then toss them into the mix. My hunch is that once you listen to the 3 way front stage setup you will be selling the rears.