New sound system in the works

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bigred74

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Ok guys just got everything ordered and while I wait for it to be shipped thought I would post what I got and see if anybody has tips or advice on install.

Truck is a 17 1500 Big horn quad cab with base audio system

Ordered:
Kicker kxa800.5 amp
Kicker 6.5" components
Kicker 2 way 6x9"
Single sub box for driver side
1 10" compR sub
Kicker amp kit with kisl's and rca cables
Few other odds and ends for install

Let's see what you guys have to say :)
 

adrianp89

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Looks like a good plan. I have the Marine version of the KXA (well the 8 channel) and it is a great amp! I would consider bridging the front and rear channels to the components and run the rears off the headunit.
 
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bigred74

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Hmm that could be an idea. And ya I also have some dynomat need to look up info on how much I should use and what all I should cover
 

2010 Infantry Vet

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Put some deadening behind the speakers and probably to door cards. Tweets in the dash or sail panel? Stick em in either spot with some tape to see what you like.

I took you guys advice with listening to my tweeters in different spots before mounting them. I ended up putting them in the triangle above the front door. The rockford components I bought, came with 45 degree mounts to face the tweeters towards you. Im happy with them there.

IMG_2032.JPG
 
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bigred74

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I took you guys advice with listening to my tweeters in different spots before mounting them. I ended up putting them in the triangle above the front door. The rockford components I bought, came with 45 degree mounts to face the tweeters towards you. Im happy with them there.

View attachment 122676
I was kind of thinking that but it's not a very flat surface, kinda concaves in so just curious if there is any gaps around tweeter where it didn't mount flush?
 
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bigred74

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And prolly doesn't matter but it's the ks series speakers I ordered
 

Witch

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Where are you going to mount the amp ?
 
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bigred74

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I'm hoping it will fit under the rear seat
 

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Looks like a good plan. I have the Marine version of the KXA (well the 8 channel) and it is a great amp! I would consider bridging the front and rear channels to the components and run the rears off the headunit.
That's what I plan to do, 800.8 on doors, use QSC69's in front and rear, 4.1 VSS amp as a pre, and a CVX 12 and KXMA12001 on it.
 

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I was kind of thinking that but it's not a very flat surface, kinda concaves in so just curious if there is any gaps around tweeter where it didn't mount flush?
My components came with flush mounts, and surface mount. I chose the surface mount because my rockford surface mounts are at a 45 degree angle so the sound gets directed towards you.
That triangle plastic piece i mounted the tweeters too was too uneven to surface mount them. Plus i wasnt sure if i would have room behind the plastic triangle (depth wise).
 

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I had some fairly deep infinity kappas in my sails flush mounted. Had to dremel the crap out of the mounting cup to dodge the mirror nuts. Ended up with 1/8 gap at one point from the mount to the sail. Hardly noticeable. Swivel ability helped too.
 

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I had some fairly deep infinity kappas in my sails flush mounted. Had to dremel the crap out of the mounting cup to dodge the mirror nuts. Ended up with 1/8 gap at one point from the mount to the sail. Hardly noticeable. Swivel ability helped too.

Pics please
 
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bigred74

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Everything should be coming in today. Got the rear doors done last night. Only issue is not getting all 4 holes to line up, should I just use 2 screws or drill for the other two as well?
20180314_163707.jpg 20180314_165012.jpg 20180314_165849.jpg Snapchat-1614583795.jpg
 

autokraftgt

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Like others have mentioned, I would strongly suggest adding some butyl deadener to the door panels and inner door skin if possible. It will make an audible difference in output, and speaker dynamics along with taming any audible resonances that could drive you to the nearest cliff....
 
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bigred74

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I have a trunk kit of dynomat that I bought a long time ago for my other truck just cause the trunk kit was way on sale and 20sq ft lol I do plan on using it. Just not use to having that plastic under the door panel. Do I remove that and put on inside of door or just take speaker out and get what I can in the hole and then put it over all the plastic? Was gonna try to find some pics or vids this weekend
 

adrianp89

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I have a trunk kit of dynomat that I bought a long time ago for my other truck just cause the trunk kit was way on sale and 20sq ft lol I do plan on using it. Just not use to having that plastic under the door panel. Do I remove that and put on inside of door or just take speaker out and get what I can in the hole and then put it over all the plastic? Was gonna try to find some pics or vids this weekend

Whatever you are comfortable with doing. Ideally you want the outside door panel, but the plastic cover has to come off and the window is attached to that. It is a bit tedious but doable. IMO for this, I would put some right behind the speaker, on the speaker baffles, install door panel and listen for rattles. Isolate the rattles but more deadener in that area.
 

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Like others have mentioned, I would strongly suggest adding some butyl deadener to the door panels and inner door skin if possible. It will make an audible difference in output, and speaker dynamics along with taming any audible resonances that could drive you to the nearest cliff....


i agree. I will probably take MAJOR **** on this site for doing this...but I used Frost King self adhesive butyl rubber/foil duct insulation and sound deadener and I'm happy with the results for a LOT less $$$ than Dynamat. I'm sure Dynamat etc is better....but this worked for me.

https://www.lowes.ca/metal-duct/frost-king-self-adhesive-foil-and-foam-duct-insulation_g1194726.html

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