Not getting to operating temp....

[Big06dram]

Thermo replace with 180. Acts like the clutch is stick on but without the roar or play. Spins by hand when it’s hot and a/c get warm at idle. Now all that was just to throw you off before I ask the real question.

How many other 3rd gen Cummins owners have a straight mechanical fan clutch?

I can’t get a price on a clutch without electro magnet harness hanging off. I have no harness hanging off mine nor a loose connector anywhere my eye can see. Over 2 years in this truck with brief check engine lights that have always corrected themself. When I did check codes never anything temp or fan related.

Do I have an odd ball I can’t find any info on or has this thing Been molested?

 

[Sherman Bird]

Thermo replace with 180. Acts like the clutch is stick on but without the roar or play. Spins by hand when it’s hot and a/c get warm at idle. Now all that was just to throw you off before I ask the real question.

How many other 3rd gen Cummins owners have a straight mechanical fan clutch?

I can’t get a price on a clutch without electro magnet harness hanging off. I have no harness hanging off mine nor a loose connector anywhere my eye can see. Over 2 years in this truck with brief check engine lights that have always corrected themself. When I did check codes never anything temp or fan related.

Do I have an odd ball I can’t find any info on or has this thing Been molested?

According to my shop information, the truck has the electronic clutch, or came with one. A scan of that intermittent check engine light might shed light on that. Inasmuch as you have owned a 14 year old truck for merely 2 years, someone in it's past life might have done a retro fit and cut the harness.

As to the thermostat, put the factory rated one back in and install a new radiator cap.... both in MOPAR brand. Good luck!

 

[Big06dram]

I put it in for the summer cause I knew it was gonna be a scorcher. I will never get heat if I leave it in come winter. I’m just trying to make sense of what I’m looking at here. Clutch unplugged should throw a light on. Only reason I know there is an issue is a/c got warm and temp is running low. Is “retro fitting” these even a thing? Possibly cause right clutch is over $200? I have searched and can’t find anyone talking anything about “retro fitting” these clutches. Only other thing I can come up with to determine ok 2 things is
1. call dealer which was Of course closed by the time I figured this out today
2. Get a location on truck side connector. Any chance your shop info gives you location on that? If not I’ll just got find 1 in a salvage yard close by on Monday.
thanks

 

[Sherman Bird]

I put it in for the summer cause I knew it was gonna be a scorcher. I will never get heat if I leave it in come winter. I’m just trying to make sense of what I’m looking at here. Clutch unplugged should throw a light on. Only reason I know there is an issue is a/c got warm and temp is running low. Is “retro fitting” these even a thing? Possibly cause right clutch is over $200? I have searched and can’t find anyone talking anything about “retro fitting” these clutches. Only other thing I can come up with to determine ok 2 things is
1. call dealer which was Of course closed by the time I figured this out today
2. Get a location on truck side connector. Any chance your shop info gives you location on that? If not I’ll just got find 1 in a salvage yard close by on Monday.
thanks

I've never understood why engineers came up with a pulse width modulated fan clutch.... but they didn't ask me for thoughts! I retro fitted my 89 D150 from the cute little solid drive mechanical fan to a thermostatic controlled electric unit.... The reason was that my truck came from Cheyenne, Wyoming. That twinky original fan could not deliver enough air volume to keep the truck cool here in Houston, Jungle hot, Texas! That kept it from overheating in stop and go traffic.

The concept of the thermostat is largely misunderstood. The thermostat is a flow control device... not just an open/shut mechansim. I always recommend using the factory specific t-stat, and an OE one always!

From the illustration in my service info, it appears that the harness which the connector goes to is under the front of the engine.... but illustrations aren't always accurate. I'd give the wire harnesses in the area near the front of the engine or along the radiator core support a good eyeballing. Look for signs of tampering such as a stub of cut off wired poking out of the rigid black plastic sheath, or electrical tape wrapped in the run area, where typically there is none. I've seen connectors folded back into the sheathing and that area taped very well..... enough to fool all but the most attentive eye.