Power windows won't work

[rabbie303]

So it would appear this just happened recently.

From the driver seat I can roll down all the windows front and back. But the passenger and back seats won't work when you try and roll the windows up/down.

Now I rolled them down and my wife hit the button and it did stop them, so I know they are getting some connection. It almost seems like the window lock button is stuck but I've pressed it on and off several times with no luck.

Any thoughts? This is a used truck. I haven't done anything since I bought it that would mess with the electrical.

2003 1500

 

[Tommyb78]

Having the same issue. I'll let you know when and if I figure it out

 

[MegaMouseGW]

Dodge trucks are well known for the wires going into the doors to break. This sounds like either that or the switches have gone south on you.

 

[rabbie303]

Having the same issue. I'll let you know when and if I figure it out

Thanks man!

Dodge trucks are well known for the wires going into the doors to break. This sounds like either that or the switches have gone south on you.

The only thing that makes me wonder is when I'm rolling them down from the driver side, if you hit the switch it will stop the window. So power is getting to them, and the switch is doing something. Maybe I can pull the panels off and check all the connections etc. Look at the lock switch as well first?

 

[MegaMouseGW]

Things to check: wires, uses a multimeter to check them for shorts to ground. Switches, again a multimeter will come in handy here to do a no power test (remove switch, test to see if the poles connect when you move the paddle), window regulators: onlyw ay I know to test these is to connect directly to the battery and see if they operate properly.
All of the above tests will require you t remove the door panel unfortunately. Now if everything tests good might be time to start looking at the TIPM.

 

[rabbie303]

Things to check: wires, uses a multimeter to check them for shorts to ground. Switches, again a multimeter will come in handy here to do a no power test (remove switch, test to see if the poles connect when you move the paddle), window regulators: onlyw ay I know to test these is to connect directly to the battery and see if they operate properly.
All of the above tests will require you t remove the door panel unfortunately. Now if everything tests good might be time to start looking at the TIPM.

*sigh* sounds like a pain but gotta get in there and check all that. Thank you very much for the help. I will let you know what I find.

 

[rabbie303]

Just an update, but I popped out the control unit and just blew it off real good, disconnected the connectors and put it back together and they all seem to work. I'm guessing a loose connection or dust build up.

 

[MegaMouseGW]

Just an update, but I popped out the control unit and just blew it off real good, disconnected the connectors and put it back together and they all seem to work. I'm guessing a loose connection or dust build up.

Dirty connectors are a problem. I suggest getting some Bulb grease and coat the connectors with it (inside where the electrical connections are made). Might be a bit of corrosion in there that you broke up when you disconnected them. The bulb grease will help for a while.

 

[Curtybob]

Just had this same problem. I also noticed that the lighted dots in the centers of each switch would flicker when I pushed down on parts of the switch and switch cover. I took the switch apart and found some broken solder joints.

Take the switch out of the door and remove the cover plate.
On the bottom of the switch, there are 6 #1 phillips screws that lock the switch housing together. Take them out.
Remove the switch buttons. This was the biggest pain. I used an open pair of needlenose pliers and pried them up evenly. The rocker and 4 button pad for the power mirros can stay. Everything else goes.
Carefully pry the housing apart. There are a few little catches that keep it snapped together. Be mindful of them.

Once apart, you should have access to the printed circuit boards. There is no need for further disassembly, as the joints you need to touch up are now exposed. The window switch board is the bigger of the two. At the bottom, there are 2 rows of large solder points for the spade connections for the wiring connector. Touch up all of those joints. You can likely just reheat them with a soldering iron... But I preferred to flow some fresh solder onto each joint. Don't overdo it. The spade connectors will migrate if you really cook them, and make it hard to plug in when you reinstall. You just need to reheat and repair the solder where it has cracked. Look closely, and you will see the cracks that are causing you problems.

The switches are really not that expensive, but why pay money for a new one when you can fix this in about 30 minutes for free?